why thank you!!

OH MY GOD YOU HAVE A SMALL WINKY.

Twat, that was for you and you only

Here's another option for you Wilwood handbrake caliper

On the hydraulic handbrake side of things...Why? A hydraulic handbrake is for a rally car, a coupe isn't even a good track car never mind rally! You would also need a cable handbrake for the MOT.

i was waiting for you to arrive Jimbo!

how do the evos get away with it?
i cant see a place for it on the back of the evo caliper!!

There isn't a handbrake mechanism on the caliper.... I think they use a drum type setup for the handbrake, but could be wrong.

Marco do you actually press the brakes hard enough to need rear brakes??LOL

Anyone remember seeing my car at Time Attack in Snetterton will remember it trailing a rear brake at the end of the back straight. You need to be careful when pissing about with the rear brakes. If you're just chucking on bigger brakes you have no control over how they work. Fitting a manual bias valve is not that difficult or expensive and gives you more control over the rear effort. Just a thought as i've spent an inordinate amount of money on brakes all round and a few years getting them just so. There is no easy fix and it depends on what you are doing. I've just spent £1600 on a set of Brembo floating 2 piece discs which just shows if you want the right stuff it ain't cheap.

Sparco,
You have a bloody good point!!
On track, how much do I really need the brakes...

Also, what size brakes you moving to??

Marco, on track, *you* need a 16NA!

<grin, duck, run>

Sparco makes the obvious point: there's no reason to do *anything* to the rear brakes on a coupe - or pretty much any road car - unless you're going to consider it as a complete system.

While there's an essential component whose sole purpose is to prevent the brakes working, there's little point in increasing the braking effort at the back end.

The front end on the other hand - why aren't you investigating ceramic discs?

There's a really great thread on Guy Crofts forum about uprating your brakes. I'll find it.

Found it:
http://guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1901

my front end braking is fine at the moment, but as i hunt the need for more power, things will need to be increased as we go!

thanks Nobby, i was on guy's forum last night reading the customer car project.
there is a SO much info on that forum i love it!

Tarox used to make a metal/ceramic disc for the front of the 20vt, it was hideously expensive and I doubt they ever actually sold a set. Just tried to search for a picture but even Tarox don't list them anymore.

sparco.. so what would you suggest i do now ..i have compbrake 335ml front and tarox rear to make them work most effectively for on track?

Fit a brake bias valve then try it on track and adjust it to suit other wise you will end up with too much braking effort at the rear and an unstable car.

To answer the question of ceramic discs, i don't need them is the honest answer. I have changed to these Brembo ones as they are probably all i'll ever need. They are the exact same discs used in Nascar in the states and Brembo reckon i'll never need to change them. At £300 for each disc i'd hope to get some good life out of them. I don't see anything higher than 180 degrees and 200 is the marker really. If you don;t have heat pads then go by your calipers. If they discolour it's a sure sign that they are getting too hot. I use pagid pads all round , have a pedal box with full front - rear effort adjustment, and no servo so you have to press hard if you want to brkae hard. Removing the servo etc is quite extreme but it's the best for the track.

Forget the rear brakes, if you want them to look nice print out a big picture of some big brakes and sellotape behind the wheel. Powerful rear brakes are a risky business.

I think after a day of thinking, calling places and thinking about my bank balance....

I'm
Going to just sort out the rear compensator and paint the calipers.

If I where to do this, I would not see change from a few hundred pounds!!

get some textar rear pads

I already have some!

The rear brakes are not that great any way... It's the rear compensator, it needs a bit of TLC

Should sort it for you, Marco.

I'll repeat a rear brake story I've told a few times - bear in mind that I've always run bog-standard cheapie rear discs, with Textar pads

After fitting some new front pads, I didn't secure the ABS cable properly, and it flapped about and eventually got caught around the driveshaft and got ripped off - result = no ABS

As the brakes still worked fine, I carried on driving it while I sourced a new sensor and cable and got it booked in at Motormech.

A couple of days later, on my daily commute, I spotted a puff of oil smoke in the rear view mirror when decelerating - I put this down to a tired turbo - it only ever happened when the engine was decelerating hard - ie when I was reducing the engine speed on the brakes, rather than a natural deceleration. I thought nothing more of it, other than to work out how to persuade Wifey that I needed a new turbo

A few more days passed, and I spotted the oil smoke in the mirrors a couple more times. Then, one evening, I left work late and the roads were really quiet, so I decided to "make good progress"

So - down my usual commute route of twisty B roads, I started to edge the speed up, and as usual, I noticed the puff of oil smoke in my rear view mirror - nothing unusual there, but as I howled down a particularly nice straight and into a series of sweepers, I jumped on the brakes and very nearly put the car into the hedge, accompanied by a huge cloud of smoke behind me

It turned out that the 'oil smoke' was in fact tyre smoke from one of the rear wheels locking up on moderate braking. When I eventually got a chance to give the car a bit of a blast, the first time I hit the brakes hard, BOTH rear wheels locked up and sent me VERY sideways

So - the point of this rambling is that the standard Coupe rear brakes are more than capable of performing to the limit of the tyres - you have to remember that the standard weight distribution is 2/3 - 1/3 to the front, and this is even more pronounced under heavy braking - quite simply, there's probably less than a quarter of a ton on the rear wheels when you're hard on the brakes, so the rear brakes have very little work to do, other than keeping the car in a straight line

So - all you need is a correctly adjusted compensator valve and you'll be fine

Marco there's a great guide to fixing the rear compensator in the how to section

Just stick these on the back Brembo rear brake conversion kit

Gunzi, I would rather pay you to do it for me!!!

Or start charging per phone call!!!!

As we know Gunzi, this with a thorogh caliper/pad service results in 4 heels being purposely stamped into the tarmac for rapid deccelerations.