Please hit me with questions and comments.

At the moment I'm researching exhausts. I want something that looks decent, isn't bothersome on highway cruise, and has reasonable cost. Please advice

Good luck Mags !

Mags, I'm keen to see your photos but am being asked to sign in to Google Drive.

It is possible to upload clickable pictures on here, although there is a limit to 5 photos per post and any photo should not exceed 2MB.

Here's the Howto

upload photos

Try now

Yep just these two work

An advantage of the link I sent you is that you get continuity by scrolling from one pic to another

Files attached using proper method

Speedy! Now looking foward to seeing the others, especially the interior...

I wish I could answer your question

Interior

Ooh that's an unusual interior, looks rather nice, even if the pics are upside down

As for the "possibly bent" parts, I'm not sure, I'd have to take a look in the garage tomorrow...

Haha, upside down, there’s a lot to learn for a newbie.

No matter what I do, they end up being upside down

It's ok, they're rotatable

Yes the interior is great, how you keep it clean must be a nightmare!

I love that interior for no other reason than it's a complete opposite to what we normally get over here!

I remember from several years ago now someone posting a dealer catalogue of options available on the continent. Quilted leather, different alloys, wood effect dash, etc. I'm tempted to get google translate on standby and see what goodies ebay has to offer

From the accessories catalog

I’m struggling to find a replacement left hand side motor mount. The one under the transmission, looking like a tin can.

Also the upper radiator hose seems hard to find.

Mags, would you like to do the magic photo trick on your first couple of posts in the Project thread proper?

Best place to put your search for the motor mount (engine mount) is in Parts Wanted

Remember to say what model of coupé you have, or you can put the appropriate avatar in your profile (click on your forum name top right-hand-side/Edit Profile.)

Tricks done

Except "sitting"

The bent part in "that" - it looks like the part the airbox bell fits through and I don't recall a kink there - it's an odd place to happen. The car itself looks terrific before storage and I'm wondering what would have caused that to bend.

Is the front bumper in good condition, no sign of damage?

“Sitting” fixed.

Yeah, it is indeed around the air box. Probably comes from someone wrestling it to disassemble things

I think Rosso on here is pleased with his recent fit of a Ragazzon exhaust....

Last exhaust I fitted was a German one that came via Joe at FCSS. Fits well and has been on for a few years with no problems.

I’m well pleased with the Supersprint cat back exhaust on mine. 200cell cat from Biltema. Might be a bit on the pricy side though.

Pen fargekombo! Hilsen 20vt Plus i sør

You can try Joe in the UK for some new, but plenty of second hand parts.

He is contactable as Countrycrusing on here.

Have a look at french_coupe's project thread post today at 1323, I think you'll see how the bent part *should* look.

Great, thanks, found it. It shoud be bent, somewhat... I´ll try to get it back to its original position.

BTW I´m looking for the tool to lock the cams in position while doing the cam belt.

Is the one for the "20VT unique, or can I use the same as for ten n/a 20v? There are various descriptions out there, and some a bit unclear.

I only know that Laser tool 3636 are the cam locking tools for the 20VT.

all right, found it on ebay

Where can I source a radiator? I got one from AUTODOC, but it didn’t fit.

You are probably better placing this in Parts Wanted, Coupé Related Chat or even General Maintenance tbh.

Autodoc have a reputation for saying they have the part then sending one of a different size.

Try Direnza rads.

Choose from here. All have a 5 year warranty now and not much money after all. AC condensers as well.

https://www.adrad.co.uk/car-radiator/catalogue.php?manu=FIAT&model=COUPE&engine=&year=

When you go to select the price - the 20VT version shows as unavailable. I'd recommend looking at the Direnza ones (since they're already UK based/built). If in the EU, then you can order alu radiator from Flexeo - and it's even cheaper than Direnza in my experience: https://motorstore.fr/shop/gb/radiateurs-aluminium/733-commande-decrouy-bernard.html

When I bought the Direnza rad from a uk supplier back in late 2019 I am sure it was labelled as PRC manufacture. The Motorstore pictures whilst upside down, I am sure are the exact same product as Direnza.

Either way if you go alu be extremely careful on the installation, those fins are very delicate...! Don't ask.

Thanks, it’s on its way!

Got the radiator, thanks guys!

I’ve got most of the parts needed under control now, but I’d really love a new coolant reservoir, mostly for aesthetic reasons….

Any leads?

You could try cleaning your existing coolant reservoir?

Yeah, I know. But the plastic is faded into this yellowish color, and on previous cars I’ve experienced that they get brittle and crumble when that happens.

Ok, understood....bleach soaking not going to work do you think?

Bleach soaking? Tell me more! How?

Hydrogen peroxide is possibly the answer. If you take a look on YouTube you should find a few videos of people restoring older electronics by soaking the plastic in a solution

It could be caused by iron staining - too infrequent coolant changes/flushes. I have used Oxalic acid in solution in the past, you don't need much say 1/2 teaspoon in 500ml water and it just disappears the staining. Its cheap and will not damage the plastic in anyway, its worth a try.

Exactly

Best buy a new one

Yeah, but where?

No idea, its not the path I would take

Looking forward to the pics

Are exhaust cams available? Mine has some pitting.

maybe try Joe @ FCSS??

are all cams with part # 46443933 correct? It appears to be the same part for both turbo and N/A applications

Suffered corrosion at some point in it's life, turbo and n/a cams are different, I hold stock if you're unable to find new.

If I Google the part nubber 46443933, I get some hits, and most of them are listed as cams that appear to suitable for a wide range of cars, such as this:
https://spareto.com/products/ajusa-camshaft/93074800

Honestly I'd buy the known good used ones from Joe, I just wouldn't risk buying a 3rd party one in case the cam durations are simply not correct

Cheers Jamie

I found some documentation, and the timing on the exhaust cam differs significantly between turbo and N/A.

So, all the cams offered for sale at generic websites claiming to be "one size fits all" are wrong.

Well, I gues they are correct in the sense that they can be installed, but the timing is significantly different.

According to ePer all 20v inlet cams are the same (46443669) but different from 20vt (46414245) whilst for the exhaust cam the later 20v is the same as 20vt (both are 46443933) but different from the early 20v (46404716)

Are there repair panels available, or do I have to make my own bits?

You'll have to make bits as you go

Cheers Jamie

You beat me to it

I had these plated, and it turned out amazing!

The problem is that I don’t know where these go? !?!

Please advise.

Is the large one top right the horn mount assembly?


Why am I thinking "radiator support bar" ends for the pair top centre...

But yes the plating does make it look that bit more special

+1 on the horn mount. You could also be right about the radiator support bracket.

Ask Joe, though he does get upset if it's 'too easy'...

Plating.....


..... but for the horn bracket it's so obvious when it's not correct, draws the eye.

Yeah, with the clamshell hood, way too many parts are exposed (and needs to be shiny).

But, you don’t approve of plating?

I've always found it expensive and sometimes hit and miss for quality when you're trying to recycle rust to gold.

What a business opportunity

I had the parts sand blasted prior to plating. So they were perfectly clean. However, some of them were very rusted, so there is some pitting where the worst rust was. The pitted areas did not come out as shiny, but should still be adequately protected.

Where do I start?!?

On a serious note, expect lots of questions as assembly is about to commence.

Looks great, enjoy 😉

Cheers Jamie

Oh no! A corner is broken off the valve cover, and was glued on by a previous owner.

Does anyone have one to spare?

That's bad luck

Common occurence though due to incorrectly sequenced/over-tightening.

Incidentally, so that you don't get offers of the wrong model, it's useful to put your appropriate avatar under your name

Click on your forum name at top rhs, Edit Profile, scroll down, select avatar

Then post in Parts Wanted

All right, I did some forum housekeeping

What’s this mysterious part on my thermostat?

Looks to be a random sensor that fits the thread which has been cut down

As above, it was a coolant sensor fitted to block that port and mainly found on original thermostats fitted at the Pinifarina factory.

So I can replace it with the plug that came with the new t-stat?

Well, another setback. Not a big deal, but still annoying:

I was gonna install the oil drain plug, only to discover that the threads were literally falling apart. Maybe it had some insert already, I didn’t notice anything when I took it out.

What’s the best way forward? Helicoil or the next size bigger?

I need repair thread too. I think helicoil (V coil etc...) Is best solution because Coupé already have big thread and it is much stronger than aluminium. I'm going to do it next week, remove oil pan drill 18,5mm hole, make thread M20x1,5 and insert coil. And then apply new seal on pan and bolt it back.

All right, on to the next issue.

After replacing the cam belt, tightening the belt, rotating the engine over several times, re-checked the tension multiple times, I checked the timing again. It turns out that both cams are ever so slightly late. It makes sense really; the whole assembly settling in and the process of getting the tension right, has to affect timing.

How do I rectify this?

Ideally I would prefer to set the engine at perfect tdc, lock the cam gears, loosen the camshaft from the gear, and turn the camshaft forward until perfectly timed. Ideally I’d have the flywheel locked, too, and a place to put a spanner on the camshaft. Maybe I can use vice grips or fabricate a tool that fits over the end of the camshaft.

The other option would be to set the cams correctly, and turn the engine backwards. I’m not sure how well that’s gonna work. The belt pulling the wrong direction may mess up timing. I guess I could turn the engine beck too much, and then advance it to tdc, but there’s not that much wiggle room at the exhaust cam.

Maybe I should just leave it as it is. The timing is off by approximately the smallest amount I’m able to rotate the crankshaft.

Are you using a TDC gauge and cam locks Mags?

It's important to have tension on the belt from the crank to the exhaust pulley, when that 18mm is loose you can turn the pulley slightly on the keyway which will take up the slack, I think this is the reason why it's timing up incorrectly.

Call me if it's easier: +44 1684 593187.

yeah, using a dial indicator on the #1 piston and cam locks.

So it has to be that first step getting the belt tight over the idler and exhaust pulley,

Om my first attempt I got the timing a bit late, after getting some great advice from Joe Countrycruising a was able to time it better. Now it’s just a fraction early (see photo) . I’ll settle for this, since it’s better to be early than late ( as the belt settles in, it’ll make the cams time later.)

I suspect I’m more anal about the details than most.

Fantastic. My kind of rebuild.

What sort of plating did you get? Looks like a couple of different types. Zinc, Nickel / chrome Passivation.. .?

Honestly, I don't know. The nuts and bolts I sent off to a company that put them in a drum, that can do all at once. The larger bits I had yellow chrome plated at a different company, and they were hung individually. They came out way more yellow. The nuts and bolts are very original looking.

Well, I checked, and it is zink plating.

Nice. Looks great..

Folks - a gentle reminder that comments should go into the discussion thread please...

Another small set back: when installing the sump drain plug, the threads literally started falling apart. I suspect there was an old Timesert in there.

I'm considering (drilling) tapping it to M20, any better suggestions?

well, now I'm stuck on this ridiculous problem. I can't seem to drop the sump without disassembling basically the whole car.

And I got an M20x1.5mm sump plug kit, but for the life of me I'm not able to get the threading tap going - catching - so to speak.

So no I'm stuck with the sump half way off, and a big useless hole where the drain plug used to go. And possibly shavings - swarf - left in the sump.

Please give me some encouragement

from memory, and I may be wrong, I think in order to remove the sump you have to undo the bolts for the oil pick up pipe and then pop the pipe out the fitting is in, as otherwise the baffle plate stops you removing the sump..

Maybe drop Joe @ FCSS a message as he will know for sure how to proceed

Cheers Jamie

Yes two ways to drop the sump, one is removing the pickup strainer, 2x 6mm that hold the pipe to the pump and a 3rd bolt holding it to the mains cap on number 3, drop that off and you might be able to wiggle the sump past the subframe.
The other method is lowering the subframe down at the front, for this you might need to remove the o/s drive shaft and the alloy support bracket, either way it's a pig of as job on axle stands.

Thanks guys, a couple of things to try 😊

Hope the rest goes smoothly Mags

Sitting on my workbench

Your disks came out well after an acid bath. Not seen that before.

One of them has some pitting, although not very deep. I’m curious to how it’s going to turn out.

Where do these go?

I don’t remember, and the other side is taken apart as well…

The square holes have white clips that push into them for self tapping screws to go into.
The 2 lower clip things on the right slot into the slot on the brake hose to secure it where it passes through a hole - possibly in the strut?
Not sure about the upper thing on the right.

The clip in the top right screws to to body using the square hole and the u shape section is where the ABS wire clips on.
I think the rubber grommet is for the wires to the brake pads but the wires have probably been cut off many years ago.

What 17” wheels will clear the Brembo calipers? The ones I got, definitely don’t….

I'd need to get Countrycruising to remind me of the details but I'm sure the solution to my own 17s involved spacers.

The Brembos had just been refurbed and 'someone' had refitted the wheel without the spacer, scoring lines all over the freshly-done caliper

These 17" Momo Sports clear with no spacers required (but wobble bolts are)

I got a set of Alfa Mito wheels that need 2-3mm spacer only, so I’ll settle for that.

Next issue: it’s been six months since I took the oil pan off. Now I’m struggling to figure out how to put it back together..

The tube for the dip stick sits loose, and the o ring is doing nothing. And what’s the threaded fitting on the right for?

Does this look right?

Here’s the full overview