Well, Coupes are character building if nothing else...

I'm very very lucky to have a local countryside garage that does my MOT's. They know the car- and are very patient with getting her past the emissions side of things. This time I took her for a pre-mot Italian Tune up and with a bit of patience- she passed the emissions test.

Then went and disgraced herself by failing the MOT....weeping rear brake calliper bleed nipple. The brakes...gosh they are becoming a yearly winge...I just can't seem to get them up to spec no matter what I do. Brake pedal always feeling spongy...but leaking fluid this year...naughty!

Anyways -a ramp was made available - and they tried to tighten it. Nope. So, hose clamp to stop any leaking and out it came- it was found to be in need of some cleaning up and making sure it was not blocked. Cleaned and then back in- and then out for another road trip by me "you know better that anyone what it should feel like".

Brakes much better- so back in to check- no more weeping - and found to be bone dry- so MOT passed. No adviseries ...so happy days...

Except......well talk turned to the general 26 year old braking system as a whole...the rear calipers are catching the rust...and would a refresh of the front brake calipers also be called for...and how about some refreshed flexi brake lines...all 26 year old rubber..?

Then I looked up at the rear subframe...even though the car has had some protection underneath-and is garaged.. rust has started to catch up. So should it be attacked with everything in situ..? or REALLY go to town and look to take off everything to get at the whole subframe...and whatever may lurk under there.

While I was mulling this over- I decided to have a re-gas as the a/c had not blown cold for some time. One re-gas later and....yep still no cold air. Some trial and error did nothing, putting some power to the condensor had her running. So the issue is in a fuse or the relay somewhere...I'll have to spend some time chasing over the weekend.

So...2-3 hours. One fresh MOT....but I left the garage feeling a bit low. The end of last year saw the investment of a full service and full Cambelt and Aux belt and tensioner service-and resolved a flooded spark plug (still no idea how or why) , and then some new paint to the front wings and road rashed bonnet (paint needing doing after the nice motorist is scoltand scratched down one wing in a quiet, almost empty car park-and left without leaving even an apology note)

Car felt mega on the way back! Sun shining...and nothing but hats off to my garage....but can't help but feel a bit blue I should have been more "on it" over the winter lay up and ticked some of these boxes...the coupes never like money being spent on them....that's for sure.

She's made me feel a bit of a neglectful owner today...even though I knw logically I need to enjoy her through the summer....and then get the winter to do list started.

But first up is that a/c fault.

Hope all are enjoying their coupes a bit more then me today- she is being testing!

MM

My Aircon has died again. Previously - after replacement condenser - the problem was electrical - all part-corroded around the relays and fuses which my local garage cleaned up and...it worked. But now it's not! I guess we have to take the rough with the smooth. The central locking went yesterday and I couldn't lock the drivers door. Solution - walk round to the passenger door and lock it there instead. It's like it's swapped sides - because previously I couldn't lock it from the passenger side Reminds me of my Fiat Tempra back in the 90s. I had to unlock the door and quickly open the rear passenger door before it locked again.

Just been out this morning for a quiet leisurely drive into town. The sun was shining and I washed her last week. Felt great and the car looks great too.
Always something to do but ignoring it all for now.
The main task is realign the exhaust. It's banging on the floor since I changed the cam belt. A job for one day when I get the urge. For now I'll live with it.

As someone who has just spent £1500 on a new clutch and various other issues at my local excellent specialist (NE Vehicle Repairs of Plymouth), I can sympathise with the OP. We have to accept that these are old, complex and very awkward to work on cars that need money, time and proactive ownership to run. I personally think that the cars are worth all the hassle especially on a sunny day, sunroof open and turbo blowing.

There's nothing else quite like 'em

but, 'one' must remember the age, and physical-cost of some of the (fairly conventional) mechanicals being squeezed into a bespoke shape

You can own 'the look', but you must also own-the-mindset.

nearly £1k for last week's MOT myself. Still need to sort the A/C and some cosmetic stuff. If our Scottish mini-tour in June comes off; I'll put my hand in my pocket again sooner rather than later...

keep-on-Coupé'ing!

I'm obviously lucky with mine with its MOT on 4th April.

A clear pass with no advisories, but on the way back home the vacuum hose between the inlet manifold and fuel pressure regulator split which has obviously screwed up the tailpipe emissions so did a bodge job to take it to the Departure Lounge meet last Saturday.

It is a bugger to get at to fit a new hose on a 16vt just to add to the fun.

Thanks all for your posts,

Just finished the routine weeknd jobs...so out I go with electric contact cleaner, a tester and some new energy to go through everything on the FAC cicruit again...using the FAQ guide on here to make sure I don't miss anything.

Oh btw I enquired the cost of having a Brake Caliper Specialist company re-condition all 4 calipers- with paint of pretty much any colour of choice. £780 for any intersted. Not compared that to new costings yet - but for those a bit more sentimental - means you get to keep the calipers on your coupe.

What ever happens this weekend-she is going out for nice drive in the sun...as you all point out - where else can you get a slice of this italia classic looks and get up and go.

I wouldn't be without my Coupe!

Regards

MM

Thankfully the Coupe went through our 'CT' without any problems last year and a quick check recently has shown no rust .... ah, except for a very small amount at the bottom of the passenger door - almost invisible, but it better get treated before it become a problem.

I need to get under the car / get the wheels off just to check fully before it goes for its test at the end of next March. Have been eyeing up a car lift as they are fairly reasonable 2nd Hand and there's always refurbed ones available. I have plenty of headroom available in the garage / barn!

Missed being able to run the car in the lovely warm & sunny weather this week because we laid new slabs down, which go right across the entrance to the barn doors (weather was an opportunity), so Coupe wasn't going anywhere! Soon be plenty of opportunities ....

Paul

I'm picking mine up again from AllItalia in Wrexham. They're great there - sorted the central locking and washer jet pump - but no joy on the aircon. Everything seems to be working (climate control ecu, switch panel, wiring and fuses and aircon pump - and it's all gassed) but no power to the system. Now I need to find an auto-electrical specialist near me in Chester. I wish I knew something about cars!

Have you tried changing the pressure sensor?

Yes. We tried that. I had a new aircon pressure stat and we swapped it. Wasn't that. Any other ideas gratefully received Many thanks.

From what you've mentioned so far several tests have been carried out.

It might seem obvious but it's not clear if the a/c compressor comes on when the internal control button is pressed, also if you have checked the condenser and the drier (and when they were fitted). Is this what you mean by "switch panel, wiring and fuses and aircon pump working"?

Have they done a leak test with dye? It's amazing how many pinholes appear in the pipework on a car this age!

No - the compressor doesn't come on when the internal control button is pressed. It used to! The condenser was changed a couple of years ago - but not the drier. I still have a spare. Leak wise it's pretty good - it's still holding the gas from last year - I had it tested thinking I just needed a regas. I think genuinely it's an electrical fault somewhere. The Aircon pump worked when power was jumped to it directly. Howard at AllItalia spent a morning trying to find the issue but no luck.

This is a really long shot but assuming the connecting wire from the internal switch to the a/c pump joins into the thick loom running down behind the radio console, check this loom out for chafing against the sharp metal edges of the radio console mount. If you're lucky even wiggling the loom might create a momentary connection between switch and pump.

This happened to me many years ago and interrupted a different function, I don't recall what, but I think an orange/white strand was affected. I've since thrown some corrugated cable protection over the loom.

It would seem unlikely that the wiring inside the centre console is faulty as it's never really subject to wear-and-tear, but if you haven't checked it already it's worth establishing its integrity.

That's a good idea. Wiggling this around a couple of years back brought the blower fan back to life as if by magic so I'll give it a go. Thanks.

Latest on the aircon - if anyone can help. Two issues

Aircon still not working: I got an auto electrician to look at it. He says the switch behind the console works fine (he had it all out) - there is a live sent down the purple wire frm this - the wire then goes behind the dash near the heater matrix wires and from there no live can be traced, he said - and purple wire seems to split into 3 or 4 separate wires. He reckons it needs a specialist with a full wiring diagram to investigate the fault from there.

Blower Motor

While he was working, the blower stopped working properly. It's now always on - and on low blowing out hot air! He said it was the resistor - but I thought the resistor slowed the fan down? And the fan goes on full when I switch the right dial to max defrost. I'm wondering whether he wired it back wrong. If it is the resistor, does anyone know where I can get a new one?

Many thanks - despairing a bit with this - especially since it's hot! Three and a half hours labour paid for in total (including at AllItalia) and no solutions - just another problem!

The fan does come on full when switching to maximum defrost.

The resistors can pack up - I suspect I might have a similar problem as I'm now getting hot air through constantly and my A/C needs a regas

I know someone with the schematics, unless anyone on here comes up with the relevant page first for your auto-electrician then I'll nudge him to dig it out for you.

However you are a Club member so you have access to the Workshop Manual already?

That would be great thanks. He thinks it might be the climate ECU also so I might try to source one of them.

I'll go find the workshop manual too.

Mike, you have a PM

Mike - that does seem like a blower motor resistor issue where you just get one speed. I sourced mine from Autodoc. They are listing a few so I've added a link to one. Still needs careful checking before ordering. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/abakus/20701952 Look for burnt terminals on your blower resistor as evidence that it has been under duress.

I have a spare AC climate ECU for a 20VT. Bought it when trying to fix my blower motor but it didn't make any difference. I think I only paid about £35 from Autosportivo so would happily pass it on for £30 inc. postage.

Many thanks. I think it's that very resistor that arrived today from autodoc. And I bought a spare ECU from Autosportivo - albeit double the price! Do you think that also explains the heater being on full also? I can't turn down the heat. It seems like both the fan speed and temperature buttons are no longer working. I've ordered some replacements from Autosportivo too - hopefully I can get to the bottom of it. Got very hot feet driving around today! Mike

Mike it is possible that the actuator which operates the heater flap is not working. I have the same problem and have just ordered a s/h one from ebay!

DaveG's thread on this is very interesting...

clicky

Thanks for this. It looks like a tricky job! I'll have a look on eBay. Certainly the felt has disintegrating been and blowing out for some time now - so it might be related. Might need to book into FCCS - replacing the actuator doesn't look straightforward!

Any chance you can send me a link for a replacement actuator? I can't find one on ebay. Thanks.

It's Bosch part number 0132801124, I seem to remember most of the few available were abroad. Mine's coming from Spain and it was their last one.

There are several similar-looking ones but not sharing that exact number which I'd assume is important.

Great. Thanks. I've found one from a Lancia Kappa with that number - so I think I'll go ahead and get it. It looks the same too.

Oh dear. The Kappa actuator's number is out a fraction. 104 instead of 124. And it's coming from Lithuania! Back to Autosportiva.

This thread should be read in conjunction with this one

So the outcome to MY a/c issues was this:

Three+ hours of checking every connector/wiring/hose/fuse/relay/pipe/pressure sensor connector and any other gubbings I could reach easily (and not so easily) and nada. Zilch. Could not get the compressor to come on despite every effort. With scratched and sore arms and a good sweat on in the heat of the day- i walked away resigned to leave it to the hands of an expert.

Two weeks later I come out for a drive in the sun - to full, ice cold A/C again. So cold that after 25 minutes I've had to switch it off to warm up. I'd like to think that's due to my hard efforts in the sun....but I'm not fooled that easily! So the logical part of my mind says-something I did has jury rigged it for a short period/or maybe re-set a electrical issue. Or...that maybe she was over filled at refil- and its needed to settle and lower the pressure.

The other part of my mind says....darn coupe!! every time I try and do something for her-she goes all Italian on me....for the near term I'm leaving it. Its on the (growing) list of things for winter maintenance.

Its my experience coop a/c's only come in two states - working (rare) and non-working (highly usual)...I'll take it working at the moment as a win!

Regards

MM

Great it's sorted.
I'm sure you probably fixed by cleaning a contact somewhere.
Good news seeing how warm it is at the moment.

I think that might be similar for mine. 2 years ago the garage did a lot of contacts cleaning and it worked. I have a hunch the problem might be under the bonnet around the AC relay area. I'm no expert but are there any obvious ones to clean up?

On another note - it was the AC ECU that had paralysed the blower and heat controls. At least they're working again. And I've fitted an after market head unit + under seat subwoofer just to keep myself positive about the car

In the engine bay you have, for AC:

Condensor
Drier
Pressure sensor
AC pump (is it leaking?)
Relays and electrical connection in box mounted on w/wash tank




Is the connector to the pressure sensor good/any flaky wiring?

Did you say the fans came on when you bypassed the relay above?

Any crushed pipes? Definitely no leaks?

Does the compressor come on at all? And if so is the pipe emerging from it that comes towards you ice-cold?

Many thanks. I'll check these at the weekend. The compressor only works if power is jumped to it. And as far as I know there are no leaks - there's still sufficient gas. Not sure about bypassing the relay. I assume that's been tried - 2 engineers now have said it must be an electrical fault somewhere - and one reckons it's somewhere deep behind the dash! Do anyone know of a Coupe AC expert within 2 hours or so of Chester?

This is the bypass test on the unit on top of the washer tank to check the rad fan operation.

(But not the compressor operation).

As you say your compressor appears to be working, just not the wiring to it!

Did you get someone to read/understand the schematic?

Is it on top of the washer tank on the N/A?

Rob, on a VIS I am informed that (hang on)...


No- they’re not.

They aren’t identified in fact.

But it seems likely they surround the half-size red-relay for the radiator-fan, which is mounted low, at the front, on the NS, in between the battery and the radiator.

Around the area indicated in the photo.

It was a genuine question, I knew they weren't on the VIS but as they are different to everything else, I didn't know if they N/A were the same. As you show the relays are in front of the battery (on a VIS at least!). They are still readily available.

Yes. That's where they are. I think the radiator fan is working - forgive my ignorance but is that important to the AC system too? I don't think anyone I've tried is that keen on looking at the fault!

This might help..

To prevent potential engine and compressor damage, the radiator fan must turn on when the AC is on. This provides the necessary airflow for the AC system to dissipate heat safely. Without the cooling airflow, the AC compressor could overheat, reducing its efficiency, and ultimately damaging the entire AC system.

(extract from here )

I think the fan is coming on. Just not the compressor. Weekend job. Thanks for all the advice. Much appreciated.