20vt Porto to do list....

Had my Porto 20vt a month now and have found the forum very useful to get a better insight on some of the car's "issues".
I purchased the car from a good friend who showed me the history which includes a recent clutch, hose of death and cambelt change! He also pointed me in the direction of the forum and I signed up very shortly after taking a look.

The car is great fun to drive and I can see how it draws people in to spending rather more than they really should in keeping it in good order...

Not being especially mechanical, the forum has encouraged me to have a go at the following;


1. Fitting a new leather gear lever and handbrake gaiter with the Italian flag which brightens things up inside. I had to remove the handbrake centre console, remove the rivets holding the original plastic gaiter and use suitable self taping bolts for fixing the handbrake gaiter and metal bracket to the plastic console. Completed.

2. Following the purchase of a replacement rear passenger grab handle on ebay, I have struggled with removing one of my grab handles clips without damaging the holding clip and plastic washer...(an office hole punch/"bodger has finally allowed me to release the deep plastic cap and now it looks like I need to drill out the retaining rivet?) Now completed
Update - after only about a week I accidently broke the replacement when pulling the passanger seat forward and the headrest caught the grab handle.Thinking the seat was stuck I unwittingly forced the seat rest forward and learnt how they get broken!

Thus I will be looking out for another grab handle!

3. Faulty washer jets for the wipers, have led me to take a good look at the windscreen washer system and I determined the pipes under the screen panel have been damaged and are leaking
4mm pipe proved too large, so now trying 3mm. I worked my way through the forum remedies for faulty washer jets, but in the end I determined that as the retaining clips which hold the n/s washer pipe to the wiper panel, had all come away, the remedy was to superglue the clips back on and wait for the 3mm pipe to arrive from ebay! Took the opportunity to clear out all the gung from the y junction and spray nosals afixed to the wipers. Have now used 3mm pipe (although strictly 2mm would have been better!)and o/s good, n/s still not spot on Will seek replacement y junction when my Halfords have re-stocked.

4. Spent many hours working on cleaning up my headlamps.
Practised on my A6 first (just in case!) using wet and dry papers, graded and starting with 400, then 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 and finally 2000 grade.
I then used T-cut followed by glass polish. So far the results are pretty good, but not perfect. I see others have used T-cut scratch remover as the last stage, so will try that as well. T-cut scratch remover worked well and clearness has been further improved with W5 carcare and the final last stage will be to use G3 Liquid Compound (thanks Moz) . Completed

5. The leather seats are pretty good, but I have purchased some colour restorer to repair a few small white patches where the black colour has gone/faded. Completed

6. Car is suffering severe brake squeal! Rear discs and pads need to be replaced, so looking at potentially Brembo drilled/groved rear discs to use with existing calipers. Also the car has poor retardation whilst on the handbrake.

7. Alarm and remote control does not work? Central locking working ok, so need to investigate further. Have the original remote control fobs (x2).

8. Rear screen demister does not work? Fuse? Faulty filaments?

9. Airbag warning light on. It seems to be a known fault.

10. HID bulbs for headlights to improve lighting? Have now fitted Halfords H1 120% Extra brightness bulbs which have definately improved lighting.

11. Refurbish alloys. Now have a second set which whilst also need of a refurbishment (my thanks dougvt), means i do not have to do a exchange of my originals which are pretty sound. All I need now is to locate a good local refurb service (Glos) Been quoted £75 per wheel!

12. Noisy exhaust. Not sure if it is just loud or has a leak?

13. Indicators do not cancel and wiper stalk has a very eratic control of wipers! I have a replacement and see from the forum, the battery needs disconnecting to provent airbag going off! I also see the indicator stalk can be remedied with some plasticard.

14.Some cosmetic paint from occasional knocks, digs and stone chips etc.

Added 21/6/2012:

15. Replace radiator. - Completed 9/7/2012

Added 10/7/2012:

16. Replace air conditioning pipe to condensor at lower joint.

17. Fit chrome rings to heater controls - purchased off ebay from Tuning Shop at £16.99. Completed 1st Aug 2012 - see later post photo.

That's it for now....

Get some pic's posted up of your car mate and wellcome to the forum

Welcome! Nice to see Lezza was the first to reply as she is also a member of the Murple Crew !

Items 6, 8 and 10 are essential. |The rest are just important.. . I have three, and I have a chalkboard in my kitchen with lists to do on all three .

Enjoy your ride, and hope to see you soon,

Tim

Welcome too from another portofino owner😄

Thanks to both Lezza and tim42 for the replying to my initial post.
3 seperate to do lists is very impressive!
I thought it would be a useful way of keeping an ongoing log of progress todate even if no one else read it!
Not sure how to upload photos onto the forum, but will do when I can work it out.
The car is very standard compared to many on here.

Any particular recommendations for new rear brake discs + pads?

Thanks Lezza - I will add some photos when I have got the hang of how too

Thanks Rosso
I see the colour is a bit of a marmite!
I must say it has grown on me...

Welcome from another Porto bluey/purple owner.
Don't pay any attention to what others think - its a great colour

Sean

Hi Sean

Many thanks for the welcome.
Mark

Brilly1uk,

Welcome! Check your oil!

You also need to check your avatar - that looks pearl white to me.

There's no shame in being murple - some of us have gone on to live normal, useful* lives not involving cutting hair.

Hi and welcome

Thanks Emjay - oil checking has become part of a routine ritual!
I see what you mean about the avatar - I'll see if i can fix it.
Regards

Thanks Theresa

Am liking the chalk board Tim may need get one for mine n porkypauls cars, having 2 coupe's in the house can get abit confusing

And your wellcome brilly us murple crew have to stick together against the more powerful/show off's of drivers on here like Tim said get the important stuff done 1st brakes etc... Then just enjoy the ride and loss of money......having a coupè is like having a really expensive lady to look after but sooo worth it!

And yes oil oil oil i'am a bugger for not checking mine

Hi Lezza
So far the Fiat appears to be the cheapest car I own, my other two (Saab and Audi) seem to swallow up many hundred's each month! A to do list on the others doesn't have the same appeal as for the Porto.
Yesterday T-cut scratch remover has improved my refurbished headlights to another level, so I am almost content with those and when the weather improves outside I'll fit some hopefully brighter bulbs I have purchased off another forum member.
Still trying to chose between new OE rear discs or alternative drilled and groved?
To add photos, do I need to create a link?
Cheers

Hi and welcome Brilly

To create photo links you need to have a site like photobucket or tinypic up and running. Each pic you upload has a linking code {IMG} which allows you to post them. Use the 4th icon from the left [looks like tv screen] on your reply posting page and follow instructions. Remember to delete the [IMG] parts [only the capitals] as they stop the thumbnail from appearing.

Edit, it's probably the small black valves attached to the washer tubes under the plenum [large panel under wipers] which need replacing/refurbing. Cheap from Halfords

Yeah to add pic's you have to create a link, took me ages figure out how to do it and am still rubbish at it, if your still stuck later I will get my other half porkypaul help you out.
Glad your getting your lights sorted I got mine done a while back and got LED's at the back, as for brakes and anything technical you need the boys help, I am a girl at end of the day!
Hopefully see you at some car meets soon

ooh didn't realise you were only 13 seconds away Lezza

Check with Paul on this one......

Thanks Edinburgh for the welcome and photo link advice.
I have set up a photobucket account but found it doesn't allow you to do simple things like rotate the photos ready for posting? I fear I am about to turn into a techno phobe
Plenum was the word I was looking for! My tubing has been split in a couple of places. I've cleaned out the valves and they seem ok. If all else fails I'll get some more form Halfords, but my local one is out of stock

Rotate the photies before you upload 'em

Simples on iPhoto but must be as easy on a pc....

I've done the indicator self-cancel fix [good how-to by Kelv27 on this] - mind you'll need a 28mm socket and keep the nut ON the thread while you yank the s/wheel off

I guess most of users learn to live with them not self-cancelling.

Mine aren't working either...sigh.

Hi again Lezza
New 120% Halfords H1 bulbs have improved the lights further, but probably to improve the lens more I will need to polish the inside? I see on utube some people seem to put them in the oven
Has the club ever used the Prescott Hill climb at Gotherington near Cheltenham? Something I have always wanted to do! Gt test of a car's accleleration, handling and braking

Blackberry....
I'll keep trying, but nonethless my photos show mine to be pretty low key compared to others on here . Spotted a yellow LE? parking up at Over Market Farm near Gloucester today which looked in very good nick (I'll add it to the spotted posts). Cheers

Not sure about prescott hill will have to check older threads but brooklands is a great day out with the test hill, you just missed out on brooklands by a few weeks, loads of coupes attend that car meet, fast ones/slower/pimped, doesnt really matter on here what your coupe is like or how powerfull it is, its more the passion for the car that keeps us all together but it is great seeing what the other boys and girls have done to their cars, am not technical myself i just know how i like my car to drive/feel/perform then nag the other half to get it done for me
as for lights yes polish them up you will see a real difference in them once there done, think there's a thread on cleaning lights on here[check it out], glad your enjoying your murple, get your name down now for some car meets so can you meet all the insane people on here, there a fab bunch and will give you loads of help n advice

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/Brilly1uk/FiatCoupe20vTurbo.jpg

Very nice

Thanks Lezza
Here's a pic of the replacement gearknob gaiter as per No 1 on the to do list.
PS I found a rotate option on the photobucket "album" facility.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/Brilly1uk/Coupe-ItalianTopgaiters.png

Looks like I got some competition with best lookin Porto now brilly

I am sure Lezza, you have no worries
Completed the repair to my passenger grab handle today:
drilled out the rivet and riveted in the replacement handle That's another one on the list ticked off

A common fault, they get bashed once too often by the headrest.
Remedy - keep out of the back seat

No danger....

Took at trip to my parents today for Father's day. After letting my dad have his 1st Coupe spin on the M5 motorway and local duel carriageway, we later on spotted the coolant level in the expansion box was well down?
Not sure if the car has the original Paraflu fluid, but I shall be making a trip to a fiat dealer over the coming few days. It may just be coincidence, but I had the air con running for pretty much the first time since I have had the car (April 2012).
Coolant spec - CUNA NC 956-15
Edit - June 18th - Called in at Fiat Hartwell's Hereford as I was over that way but they only had Paraflu Ultra Protection, which it appears is all that is now available. As I recalled mine was pink/red in the tank, I purchased a litre for £6.60. This was with a considerable discount as they said they charge £8.20 + VAT! Being concentrate I watered it down to 50/50 when adding to the car this evening. Now to keep a very close eye on the levels!

Earlier I tried fitting a spare rear demister switch, which sadly did not appear to fix the rear demister
Still, I learnt how to remove the centre panel on the dash. This is quite straight forward but on removing the fan switch, care needs to be taken re a small metal spring which can be easily lost behind the centre console. Also care with the top retension clips.

Can anyone advise whether the rear demister switch should have a definate on/off click? Mine both push in and come out without a switch click

The switch does not latch, the relay should. Does the demister work if you turn the R/H heater control to Max Def?

Hi Barmybob
Thanks for the confirmation re latching. Not sure re the Max Def, but I will definately give it a try

After having replaced the rear n/s passenger grab handle a couple of weeks ago, yesterday I managed to break the replacement when trying to move the passenger seat back forward!
Basically it seems the head rest gets jammed on the grab handle and without releasing what was jamming it and the consequences, trying to push the seat back forward, the grab handle gets broken.
So No2 on the list needs doing again....still I now know all the steps involved
I am otherwise having the cooling system/radiator pressure tested this week

See seperate technical post - pressure test has confirmed the radiator has a leak and needs replacement.

Well, a new Valeo radiator has been fitted and hopefully fully tested and bled.
The local garage then advised the air conditioning metal pipe lower joint has been leaking and the pipe needs replacing.
Therefore the aircon is off limits until I can track down a new pipe replacement. Once again it does not look easy to get too....
The garage mechanic said I can add it to my to do list...has he been reading my posts?
Anyway, tick one off, add another on
Double checked the oil and noticed the level appears different depending on which side of the stick you look at???
Keeping a close eye, I have added 0.3 litre after just over 500 miles.

You seem to be doing well ticking off them things to do on your coupe!
Hope your enjoying your car mate

Hi Lezza
Yes, still enjoying the car, though haven't really used it too much as I want to get key things sorted before being able fully appreciate its capabilities. Increasingly keen to get the brakes sorted and then I will feel more confident pushing on!
Luckily I do not have to use the car day to day.
Bye the way, I have thought of spraying a model of the Coupe Portofino Blue. I have a can of spray paint, so if I can get hold of a model at a decent price, I will have a go. However not many models available - the only one I have cost £40!

I think £40 sounds about right for a model coupe that's what paul has paid for his? Glad your Porto going well not sure if am keeping mine Paul has found another coupe for me in better condition than mine, and if he has his way will just swap my car weather I like it or not!

Well I am sure if you do get another, it will be very good, as your Porto looks in well cared for condition. I'll be interested to see what you get and where your Porto ends up?

All I know is it's energy green?

oooo energy green 20v n/a??? Still too fast for a bird lol

Might be a energy green plus????

Back to the to do list...
Checking out the state of the rear brake hubs, in preparation of renewing the discs and pads, I used the Fiat tool kits torque wrench to loosen the wheel nuts and check the locking wheel nuts can be removed. All was well, until on the last nut when the torque wrench stripped.
So now on the lookout for a new Fiat wrench plus a proper wheel nut brace.

I wouldn't bother with the Fiat wheel spanner, just get a decent 1/2inch drive ratchet/breaker bar and a 19mm socket.

I think your right petep

Item 5 on the "To do list" Leather seats - finally got around to using the special leather colour restorer over the weekend and very pleased with the results.
Firstly I spent a good while using leather cleaning liquid and then applied the leather colour restorer on a few areas of either wear or small white patches.
Worked the colouring in, left to dry, wiped off the excess and then checking next day, all looks very good.

I will polish those seats for you next week...
Looking froward to borrowing my ex!

You mean as you hang onto the steering wheel going around bends!

Item 17 on list - Fitted the new heater control bezels my son purchased as a birthday gift...thanks Dan, they look pretty good and give the centre console a nice lift from the somber dark plastic.

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/Brilly1uk/Newheaterbezels.jpg
See earlier photos for the before and after.
Care needs to be taken when following the fitting instructions as it is quite easy to create a lip on the inside of the bezel, which prevents them from sitting flush.

A new set of mats purchased via ebay arrived yesterday.
A good fit for both front and rear, with a nice Coupe logo to lift things up a bit. Being black, they show up how the original carpet has faded since 1998!
Anyway, pretty pleased with them and not bad value at £30 plus postage.

Item 14 on the original to do list - Car is booked to have a bit of paint this week to tidy up a few of the more obvious bumper and bonnet scrapes on my Porto.
A bit worried about the paint matching, but I guess an entire respray would be the only way to get things perfect!

Very pleased with the paint job and so far it looks a very good match tidying up a scuff on the rear n/s bumper and similar on the o/s front bumper.
Pics to be posted shortly.
Work was carried out by Chips Away(Glos)and I can thoroughly recommend them for a cost effective way to keep your car looking tidy.
Luckily the rain stayed away and we had a bright clear morning here in Glos, for doing the work.

You're doing a sterling job there Brilly, now post some pics!

Here are a couple Edinburgh

Another pic - still Porto though!

Porto after touch up

Full marks for effort, what are the headlight lenses like?

Thanks Edinburgh.
I feel the headlights are pretty good now, following a refurb with wet & dry papers, polish etc.
Next will be the alloys.
I notice the wing mirror arms have some bubbling under the surface, so they will probably be added to the list!

I may not have my Porto anymore but have being reading your threads with interest, am pleased to see you ticking your list off at a steady rate.
Your coupe is looking amazing brilly makes me miss mine
But I do like your car mats, mine are really thin so need invest in some new ones, keep up the good work mate

Hi Lezza,
Thanks for the positive comments: still lots to do, but I am gradually making progress.
I'm sure it will never be as good as some of the cars here on the forum, but hopefully the Porto will have a bit more life in it yet.
So far, I have done less than 900 miles in it since I've purchased it (April 2012) and I treat it very much as a toy!
I hope your Energy Green is going well?
Did you attend the AGM in Coventry?
Cheers Brilly

No didn't go AGM this year due to work but I will be at the Christmas meet, hope to see you there.
My coupes ok she's got a few nigges, speedo likes to play up and stay on 60 mph, the fuel gage gives out the wrong readings hence why I have broke down twice now due to lack of fuel I think the revs are fixed now, she just needs a good wash and some mats but to be honest I just drive her like any other car I don't have the passion with the 20v as I had with the Porto!
It doesn't look, feel or drive anywhere near what a 20vt can, it boarders on slightly boring



Will save my pennies and keep my eyes open for a 20vt that catches my eyes!

Hey Brilly

I've also being watching this over the past couple of weeks, and just wanted to say, keep up the good work, from another fellow Porto owner. your certainly getting there, and the end result will be well worth the time and money spent.

To be honest I was never too keen on Porto when I first got her, but the more I was around it, the more the colour grew on me. Now I absolutley love it, and couldn't give a monkey's what anybody else thinks

They truly are great cars, this is my 4th (and favourite) and im only 22 lol! Hope you enjoy the car as much as I do mine, and it brings you many trouble free miles, and as long as once you get on top of it all, you stay on top and maintain it well, you'll be laughing.

Here's a pic of mine to keep you motivated

Take it easy.

Yes, I admit it was the way the turbo went, that drew me to the Coupe rather than anything else

Hi F1ANG,

Thanks for the encouragement....yours is a very smart Porto.
I see you have drilled and groved alloys.
Which make have you fitted, as I need to replace mine, front and rear?

Hi Brilly,

Thanks mate. Shes gone through quite a transformation since I first got her.

Mine are mtec drilled, groved and vented fronts. And drilled and grooved rears.

I got them brand new as a complete set, front and back with pads for £180.00, witch I thought was really good value.

They can take some stick (trust me ive put them to the test ) and look the part too

The only thing I would say is if I was to buy them again, I would spend a little extra and go for the black edition ones as mine have started to go a rusty colour everywhere that the pads dont touch, and the black edition ones will never do that. Other than that, there absolutley spot on!

When I get home from work tonight I will try find and send you the link to the ones I bought.

Ps gota love the sound the grooves make under braking

King regards. Angelo

Oh eBay by the way, thats where I got them. Sorry I thought I stated that in the post above

I assume these are the rear discs you are referring to?

If so check your rear compensator, they tend to stick in the closed position so the rear braking effort is always at it's weakest. It is also worth cleaning out the rear calipers where they touch the pads (sliders etc), as this can also cause the part worn symptoms.

Hi Gunzi,

No mate it's nothing like that, I checked the rear compensator, stripped and throughly cleaned both front and rear callipers when I changed the disks and pads.

Sorry I should of specified further, it's just rain water and water from when I wash the car and dont drive it immediatly afterwards. When I said rusty colour, thats what I ment

Thanks for the tip Angelo.
I see quite a few seem to have gone for the MTEC discs.
I agree with you re going for the black finish and I have been stalling between going for the Brembo Max or go for the drilled alternatives.

Ah I see, good effort on the strip down

To be honest Brilly, I dont think theres an awful lot in it, between the two. I too thought about the brembos because there a very good, compitent brake manufacturer, but when the MTEC package came up, they were drilled, grooved and vented, complete with pads, for a lot less than the cheapest brembos package was that I could find. So I done a little research, went through some reviews and came to the conclusion that

A - there was very little in it between the two.
B - the MTEC's were considerably cheaper.
C- besides the comparison between MTEC and brembo they were much uprated from standard disks ( that I honestly thought werent too bad for everyday road use in the first place) as far as standard disks go.
And D - just look at them besides the rusty look mean lol

so yeah just comes down to preference buddy, and budget, ive had no problems at all since they've being on my car, they work great and handle the heat very well and if im ever buying up-rated brakes in the future I will be buying these again (black ones though ) defiantly good value for money, Hope this help you decide.

Cheers Angelo
I think you've persuaded me to give the MTECS a go, as I agree they are available at a lower outlay than the Brembos.
Which pads have you used? Any squeeling brake issues?

No worries mate, glad I could help.

I just used the pads that came in the package, I think there just mtec's own. And I have only ever heard them squeel very briefly after I've washed the car, then stops streight away. I copper slipped the back of the pads and runners when I fitted them, and I would say that has definitely helped.

Here's the link to the ones I bought

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewite...nid=34939051020

Brilly - your car is looking immaculate - it is a real credit to you. You have made some shrewd purchases that have really added a touch of class to the whole package. It looks like a real luxury interior now. Great job and keep up the good work.

Thanks Angelo

I'll let you know when their fitted!

Steady Moz, you won't be able to afford to buy it back!

Your welcome mate, anytime. Looking forwards to seing your progress.

MTEC grooved and drilled brakes in black - group buy £132.
Arrived today - just need to order some pads now!

You 'MUST' upload pic's when there fitted, I'll bet the black looks against the porto, cant wait to see them on.....infact don't, I'll just be annoyed

Will do!

Looking at my sill drainage holes, I spotted my engine shield/sump guard has lost some of its retaining bolts.
Does anyone know what size bolts/nuts to use?
I believe some use plastic tie clips instead?

Looking back to item 17, following the group buy, a new clock ring, instrument bezels and speakers added to the heater controls previously fitted.

Car failed the MOT this week due to insufficient rear brakes/handbrake effort. Looking back over the old MOT notices, it seems a re-occuring theme, with new cables etc being fitted. As I have a set of brand new discs, ready to be fitted, then hopefully this should be a quick fix.
However, the Porto also failed on a damaged coil spring, so I'm organising a new set.

Good news was nothing advised about the exhaust emissions or noise!
The coil springs therefore become item 18!

MOT passed after new front coil springs fitted on both sides, along with new discs all round and new pads.
After a drive this evening, the brakes certainly felt much more reassuring.
The Porto is filthy at the moment as my country lane has been heavily used by tractors hauling maize harvest, so I'll post some pics when I have given it a wash!
Feels great to finally got item 6 on my original list sorted, however they still squeal!

Picked up Moz (the former Porto owner) yesterday and after a a 10 mile drive, he expressed how impressed he was with the tightness of the handling and the positive feel of the new brakes
Its good to get positive feedback from someone else who is familiar with how the car feels and goes.
Next up I would like to;
a) Establish why there is a transmission or wheel bearing/tyre drone at around 2500rpm/50mph?
b) Get the alloys refurbished.
c) Get the air conditioning working again by fitting a replacement metal pipe.

Reference item 6 - replacing front and rear brake discs, I had purchased via the Group Buy MEC drilled and grooved discs (painted balck to prevent rust) and since fitted with new pads.
This along with a pair of new coil springs has transformed the way the car drives.

Love the improvements that Brilly has made to his car.

This Coupe was easily most fun car I ever had... at least I know it has gone to a good home!

The car has been pretty much laid up over winter, but this week I have dropped off my spare set of alloys for re-furbishment.
The rear drone noise isn't driveline related as dropping the clutch at 50mph, the noise remains unalterred on the particular road surface I notice it most.
As I suspect the noise is coming from the cheap "Hero" rear tyres, I plan to fit some alternatives when I get the alloys back.
Unfortuantely all the tyres are the same, so I can't switch them around to see if I am right. My pa suggests pumping them up!
If the new tyres do not work, then it is probably the rear wheel bearing(s).

Pumped up the tyres to see if they would make less noise around 50mph and found the rear of the car still very noisy.
The exhaust system passed the MOT and emissions test quite recently, (with the same sound coming from the car)but I think the exhaust must primarily be responsible for the excessive road/noise generation?
I guess unless I want to replace the rear box etc, I'll just have to put up with it! Alternatively extra sound deadening material in the boot?
Luckly, I never use the Coupe for anything other the a local leisure drives, but it would be nice to think I could run it on the motorway without being completely frazzled by journeys end! Anyone with the same experience?

Yep, probably wheel bearings. Last year I had similar on my red Coupé and thought it was rear wheel bearing problem, or stepping on the tyres, but it turned out to be front wheel bearing.

FRONT wheel bearings? Interesting, I'll have to get them all checked out!
Hopefully yours is all sorted?

Back to my original to do list, item 11 was to get my alloys refurbished.
Subsequently I actually purchased a second set (thanks dougvt) and have now picked them up after shot blasting and painting.
As we are officially in Spring, I will go on and get the tyres switched over

Who the hell are you kidding!!

I have established my exhaust is not being held firm in the centre and maybe why the car seemed to becoming particularly noisy
Holding the tail pipe(cold!)it is possible to move the exhaust, as it articulates around the mid-section.
The tail pipe had moved and was touching the rear valance.
I am hoping a check of the mid holding brackets will remedy the situation. Need to get it sorted before the whole exhaust needs replacing, such as a fracture in the mid section?

It won't necessarily be the brackets (or rather the rubber straps at the end of the cat section and at the side by the centre box, or at the very rear) but could be the clamps instead (or as well) especially the centre to rear clamp right by the rear axle, that can allow the rear box to rotate so that it drops down by the axel so that the tailpipe end sticks up and touches the valence/bottom of bumper.

Thanks DaveG
I'll try and repair/photo the clamps.

Gave all three of my cars a wash today, having spruced up the interiors yesterday.
I also resprayed one of the rear parking sensors on my Saab, which the jet wash had taken off the paint.
I need to work out how to spray the Coupe wing mirror arms, as they are showing corrosion bubbling under the surface.
I also need to decide which tyres to fit onto my refurbished alloys, before putting them on. My local tyre shop will swap the tyres over for £12 a wheel, but I thought I'd rather have a new set and keep the existing wheels and tyres as spares? The existing wheel nuts look about worse for wear and the new alloys will really show that up

It's great to see/read that your still working through your to do list, only 5 more to tick off 😄
Miss my coupe

Get some pics up brilly when you've finished your wheels

Cheers Lezza, have you not got another yet???

They're easy to take off the car.

1 screw inside under the cap holding the inner plastic plate, once that's off there are 3 allen bolts to undo. Seal off the gap underneath them first in case they drop into the recesses of the door. Pull apart the connectors for the motor and the a/c if fitted.

After that it's a bit of a fiddle to take the mirror apart if you just want to attack the arm. Is that your intention?

No at the mo am stuck driving a ford KA
I just have to get my kicks driving porkypauls but I do miss having my own

Porky is just MEAN!!

Hi Edinburgh
Thanks for the reply post, very helpful.
Yes I want to refurbish the black arms, the Porto plastic covers are fine (so long as you like Porto!).
I see a coupe of mirrors advertised on ebay with Porto covers and whilst they are described as in good condition at over £60 for the pair it might be better to refurb my own?
Just a bit worried about pulling them apart and then getting them to go back together in one piece!

Yes the full dismantle involves the tricky business of removing the mirror glass (there are two designs which require different techniques). After that it's not too bad unless the screws holding the black plastic strip at the back are seized.

What finish do you intend to use on the arms?

Not given the finish too much thought yet, I'd suspect I'd go for something pretty standard looking?
Should they be matt, satin or gloss?

Don't get me started

Gl .. gl..whatever I you think is best

Took a closer look at the exhaust and found it appears to be suspended by intact brackets and hangers near the front and rear of the system, but quite a bit of movement exists in the hanging rubbers themselves and there seems to be nothing retaining the system around the mid point?
I think I'll just have to have an exhaust specialist look at it. The exhaust is a stainless steel one, so seems ok in itself, with nothing obvious, broken?
I'll get my refurbished alloys fitted at the same time.

A glowing tribute to your perseverance and besottedness mate

Cheers Edinburgh!

I have purchased a whole set of 2nd hand aircon pipes on ebay this weekend, so I have used the latest Euro Car Parts discount of Parts25 to get 25% off of a new A/C Receiver drier/accumulator.
I also purchased a new cabin filter.
Now to find someone to either fit or re-gas the system.

Any aircon repair threads would be appreciated!

Exhaust movement - bracket check;


http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj621/Brilly1uk/FrontsectionofexhaustApril2013_zps9f5ab827.jpg

She's looking very nice brilly x

Cheers Lezza, I still have not fitted the refurbed alloys, but the originals still look good in camera phone photos!

They look good go me

Full set of second hand aircon pipes arrived yesterday. Now I just need to clean them up etc and work out how to fit them? I have also received seperately a new aircon receiver unit.

I fitted my refurbed alloys yesterday.
On the car they are considerably greyer than my originals?

Item 11 ticked off for now

Fitting the alloys I established I need a new wheel bearing on the o/s/r. Is it better to fit both sides at the same time?

Used some "Black Colour" polish this evening on the door pillar covers and mirrors. Pretty pleased with the result, simples.

While you're at it, the rubber trims around the quarter lights and screens respond well to a tube of black shoe-cream

Shoe cream?
The black car polish seemed to work well on the window frames and quarter lights.
With the refurbed alloys and a bit of polish here and there, she's beginning to look not half bad!
I'll need to start working on sprucing her up under the bonnet next....

Bonnet? Can one actually open it?

You mean there's something in there

Yes, it looks flipping complicated under there!

Took the Porto along to Bathwick Tyre & Battery today, for them to take a look at why my exhaust is moving?
Having taken a look last week, I was hoping it needed a hanger repairing...
Turns out the welds in the mid box have come away!
The system, I believe is a Lifelong stainless steel one.The "Lifelong" warranty only applied to the previous owner .
According to the mechanic it could be welded, but might not last long...

Update - edit function not showing on original post?

Items 6 (New Brakes & pads ), 11, (Refurbished Alloys), 12, (Repaired exhaust) plus additional item 18 - Wheel bearing all completed.

The repaired exhaust and new rear wheel bearing has transformed the car....happy days!

Well in an effort to tidy up my garage today, I brought the Porto out of her hiding place and after later in the day spraying off some of the garage dust, I decided to take her for a brief run around the Forest of Dean this evening.
Listening to the 5 cylinder warble again after about a month off, was just great!!!

great stuff brilly! keep it up
regards mitch

Having cleaned the car inside and out over weekend, I came across some tyre dressing today and applied it in a spare couple of minutes to the Coupe's wheels.
It's amazing how something so simple and costing so little, can immediately improve the look of the car!

I am thinking I want to get some of the minor dings sorted now....
However the priority is to find a fix for the airbag dash light that has been on since I acquired the car, but is now an mot fail

Going to have another go at sorting out the washers, this pm, by fitting a new y junction.
Fixed them last year, but they are no longer working properly with the n/s wiper having no water emitting at all.

Well through a process of elimination, I think I have found the problem, being a blocked valve. The force of washer jet is not great though!

That said, now the car won't start!

It is turning over but not firing up? Thinking maybe I have flattened the battery, a tad, whilst testing the wipers , as the car has been in the garage all last week and so I've put it on the charger.
Lots of clicking noises coming from under the passenger seat???

Put the battery on charge and after a couple of hours, she started no problem? Back safe in the garage!

Porto is off to Bromyard next week (Joe) to see how she is and to see what is the plan of attack is going forward?
I'll let you how we get on!!!!
The first priority is to get her through the MoT, plus find out why the throttle has been sticking open?

Good luck, hope you make it through the storms let alone the MOT!

Thanks Simon, hopefully things will have died down by Wednesday???

Fresh Mot today via FCSS in Bromyard.

Whilst there, Joe and Dan gave the car the once over.

Mine has a few issues, but hopefully all is not lost!
Joe patiently talked me through what needs attending to and in which order.
My original "To do list" had 15 items on it and now I can work my way through 16 more!!!
(To be fair, there is some duplication!!!! )

Dan, has sorted out my washer jets, which after my own botched efforts, are great to have working properly, so no more excuses for not taking her out in unclement weather...

Thanks also for the loan car, my first experience of a N/A, which I thought had nice handling, well sorted brakes, it made a nice noise, but perhaps previous loanees have given the clutch too hard a time!!!!

Oh and very embarassingly, my sticking throttle was put down to the drivers mat jamming the throttle on!!!

Thanks for popping up top see us yesterday Mark, to be fair your Coupe is in pretty good condition for it's age and mileage. We see many horror stories that look lovely on top but come the underside they're untouched, and in some cases covered in layers of under seal that have been applied over serious corrosion issues much like the example I showed you on my PC yesterday.

There's a few jobs that need tackling asap but other then those nothing drastic.

Happy driving

Cheers Joe
I came away with renewed enthusiasm for the old girl and so no doubt I'll be back in touch soon.
Did you have any concerns about the compression test?

All jet washed and chamoised before put away in the garage for the week.
I need to start thinking how to go about cleaning up some of the rust under the bonnet?
I'd like to clean up the area around the horns and brackets.
Should I use an electric drill with a wire brush/emery cloth type attachment?
Any "how to do's" on here?

I painted kurust on the brackets then black hammerite....

the horns themselves came up a bit even if the ageing bakelite was threatening to crumble....

Cheers Simon
I'll use your before and after pics as inspiration!
Need to look out your krusty kurust!

Following a couple of episodes of having a flat battery, my old chap popped by and showed me how to use a volt meter to test whether a) the battery had any life and b) whether the alternator was charging the battery.
(You don't learn these things with a newer car )

The conclusion is the existing battery is probably on the way out if it cannot hold a charge after a week's lay up?

As I don't think my original Clarion radio/cd/stereo has a security code, swapping to a new battery should not cause the usual problems of resetting things?

It will just forget the prestored stations you might have saved.

Cheers Barnacle.

Made a start on re-furbishing the horns today. As you can see they are in quite a state!

Started by spraying on plenty of WD40 to help free off the nuts.
The first obstacle was one of the 10mm nuts which hold the horns to the brackets, had rounded edges and all my 10mm sockets and ring spanners, kept slipping off !!!!
Eventually I found a socket which held firm and was able to free the nuts to remove each of the horns, after disconnecting the electrical clips.

Once the horns were removed I turned my attention to the brackets themselves.
However I then noticed water seemed to be poring out from somewhere at the bottom of the washer bottle? I believe the pump must have come dislodged, but initially I thought the washer bottle had a leak!

So I then set about looking to remove the washer bottle.
When trying to remove the electrical regulator box which sits on top of the washer bottle, one of the Phillips screws had already been rounded off?

To try to help loosen off the remaining screw, I set about using a small hacksaw to create a groove for using a flat bladed screwdriver. Despite this I could not remove the screw. However with the other screws removed, I was able to free off the regulator box. (Cheers Dan!)
I set about loosening the remaining bolts and with the expansion tank lifted out of the way, I was able to wriggle the washer bottle free.

With it removed, I could see it was not split, but presumably the washer pump must have been dislodged enough for water to escape?
Whilst removed, I tried to give the bottle a good clean. On the inside, mould and algae has gathered up and is very difficult to get too!

Unfortunately I did not have the appropriate brushes for getting all of the dirt out and will have to have another go!

Looking closely at the horns, I am not sure they are able to be fully restored?
I may go on and look out for new alternates for now, with a view to stripping the originals right down, if that is possible without wrecking them?

Bought some new horns from Halfords yesterday, but not sure I can bring myself to put them on as they look very loud (no pun intended) in bright red plastic and a chrome grills!

I also picked up a tub of some Hammerite rust remover.
It says it is a non drip gel(?). Does it work? Has anyone tried it?
Joe at Bromyard says I need to have a look at some rust which has started coming though in my boot!!!!
Frightened once I start, I'll be covering the whole car in gel?

Rust in boot....do as the man suggests!

Washer bottles - there have been a few tasty suggestions on here in the past usually involving rice and shaking. Fill it up and tie it to the dog then throw a stick into a pond.....

Very good!

Rusty horn reburb

Some of your post missing?

April fool?

Work in progress.....

You know it's only November!

Tucked up.

Lucky you having a garage to sleep in !

New rocker cover gasket, clutch slave, final drive diff seals and fresh gearbox oil hopefully this week at Joe's new premises.

He's going to be busy then....

An expensive day for me Edinburgh, as I have the Saab having it's service and Mot the same day!
Still, hopefully that will see me through the winter (fingers crossed).
I've been undoing various nuts and bolts in the Coupe engine bay, taking them off individually and giving them a spruce up with the a wire brush. Surprising the difference it makes even if it is only myself who notices!
I have come across a couple of bolts which do not want to budge, despite soaking them in wd40, so I'll have to keep scratching my head on those.
I particularly wanted to see if I could get the horn brackets off, but so far I cannot find a spanner or socket which does not want to keep slipping off or trying to round the bolts!!!

My knowledge on rust treatment is pretty limited, so I will need to read up and this as I wish to get the front bumper off and clean up the brackets etc around the front....
I have managed to get the rust off of one of my horns via wire brushes and small files. Not sure what is best to paint them with ie something like hammerite smooth or just primer a colour of choice?

Once I'd brushed and wet'n'dried mine as much as possible without going through I used a coat of Kurust then black Hammerite iirc.

The more severe problem area was the bakelite-type material which threatened to crumble around the mouthpiece

If you're taking out bolts to refurb you could go the whole hog and re-chrome/brighten

Kurust seems to be confusing me.
I bought a large jar in Halfords (I took their horrid looking plastic horns back!), as I thought I will need plenty of rust killer going forward. The big jar is a gel rather than a liquid?
Which did you use? Can I use either?
So far, I have got one right back to the metal with just a few darker patches left.

Yours Mine
My understanding is you painted yours straight on top of the kurust? Just careful masking and no primer? Many thanks!!!

Trying out the kurust this evening...

...and here are the two stubborn horn hanging bracket bolts I cannot yet undo!

Photobucket seems to be being temperamental re rotation of pics tonight?

I've just remembered that I put primer on top of the kurust.
I couldn't get every last bit of microscopic pitting out, however the kurust which is not only r-e-ally old but a pink liquid that turns blue/black seemed to seal everything up. Primer on top then a 258 (broomy) sample pot with mini brush did the rest

They probably need doing again by now

Thanks Simon
My kurust is a green gel which you apply in 20 minute sequences and then wash off.
Without the wire brushes I cannot tell it is really doing anything? Presumably I need to insulate the individual screw on each horn which was covered in some sort of rubber/mastic?

For the final finish I have lots of halford spray cans including primers, but think I'll use the hammerite smooth probably in silver or black? I believe this does not require a primer and will hopefully prohibit the rust coming through again...

Sorry if yours need re-doing already?

Here is the latest project "To do list" for the Porto:

1. Front suspension top mounts and bearings aged.
2. Front ARB bushes aged and cracked.
3. New Rocker cover needed following replacement of rocker cover gasket, established the existing cover had been repaired.
4. Diff final drive seals leaking.**
5. Rear sub frame mounts badly aged and corroded.
6. Rear shocks heavily corroded along with springs.
7. Water hoses original and soft on the corners.
8. A/C condenser aged and showing signs of leaks.
9. Plenum inlet sleeves aged and cracked.
10. O/S front brake line corroded.
11. Clutch slave seals weeping.**
12. Corrosion in boot where arch meets the floor on the O/S and corrosion around the n/s plenum.
13. Lateral play in turbine shaft of turbo.
14. Windscreen control switch intermittent.
15. Drivers door hinge missing fixing.**
16. Air bag module will not cancel light, exchange unit needed.
17. Heated rear window demister faulty.
18. Alarm remote control.

FCSS have addressed items ** 4,11 and 15 today. Many thanks Joe and Dan
3,4 and 11 were highlighted as priorities, but the next priority list has yet to be decided???
A new rocker cover gasket was also fitted today, but unfortunately the cover itself needs replacing.
I have started looking at those areas which need rust treatment.

Horn refurbishment completed!
The project extended to cleaning the inside of the washer bottle with wet rice and using the electric wire brushes to clean the horn and brackets, before a coat of Hammerite silver smooth paint.

The horns needed a slight retune!

Looks like you went a bid mad with the wet rice, it all leaked out and sprayed over the cars

Well it certainly took plenty of shaking!

Wet rice ?? Well if it worked..!

Nice discreet job there Mark, not too ostentatious

Now a wee clean up of the paintwork behind the brackets..

....Yes it never ends Simon!
I was amazed by the water and rice, but it was the one thing that did the trick. Rice on its own got quite a lot off, but when I added water, shock some more and finally everything stuck inside came away

Are you by chance saying my horns are too bright???

The devil you know...

Following on from the horn refurbishment a few weeks ago, I have tried a little painting on a few other bits this weekend.

I am keen to work out how to remove the front bumper to refurbish the hidden hangers etc.
To start with, I attempted to remove the two side front bumper screws and metal plates on both the o/s and n/s. Firstly, I needed to find the best fitting Phillips screwdriver as it looked very easy to round off the screws! At this stage I removed one but the other keeps turning as the clip on the other side keeps rotating.

With the one removed, I spent some time filing away the loose paint and rust! I have then (using a piece of dowel to hold the metal plate) painted it with a 3 or 4 coats of can spray Hammerite Smooth black paint. Hopefully the Hammerite paint will stop the rust returning!

I also experimented with painting my unfitted rear wiper blade, removing the plastic bits and rubbing down with emery cloth, wet and dry papers and Halfords paint/rust scourer. The rear wiper was removed before my tenure and I'm toying with the idea of putting it back?
After a bit of masking tape on the alloy end, I have used Halfords Satin black spray and so far very happy with the results.

Having experimented, I will go on and refurbish the front wipers, if the weather stays warm enough !

Well, if you're lucky enough to live in the tropics..

This car will surely get a mention in dispatches when the list is complete

Unless it has Forth Bridge syndrome...

Dan at FCSS said it was like painting the Severn Bridge, but I knew what he meant! Still the Severn is a little closer to home

New oil leak!!!???
Not long had a new rocker cover gasket fitted, but an oiled friend has returned.

Catching innit

Slippery slope.....

Are you taking the piste?

Have primed the plenum/under windshield grill tonight, ready for spraying satin black tomorrow.

The plenum grill has been resprayed satin black and refitted. The plenum itself could do with painting.

Having practiced with the rear wiper arm, I have set about repainting the front pair.
Due to bits of rust pitting, I have taken the first one right back to the metal in places. A couple of coats of rust preventing primer has been sprayed on this afternoon and its being left overnight to dry in our utility room, before having a top coat of satin black paint tomorrow.

I also had a replacement rocker cover arrive today, but very disappointingly, it looks like the couriers have damaged it in transit!!! So, if anyone has another available, please let me know....

you have PM

Thanks Simon.
I have replied.

What is this?



I a bit confused by this plate which has a connector and various wires behind it, yet has a spare plug taped to the outside?
The side bolt has a thread but I did not remove completely it as I am unsure whether a retaining bolt will fall away on the other side which I cannot immediately access?
I'd like to remove it for a bit of rust treatment!

Top of my head: the connector for the ABS control unit. It should be on a fixed cover, like the engine ECU on the washer bottle.

If the bolt doesn't push in and out when half removed, it's a fixed nut.

Many thanks Barnacle.
I should have said it is on the nearside!

From memory the bolt did not push in or out when half undone, so hopefully it has a welded nut on the other side?
The connections did not really want to come apart?

I enjoyed the book BTW!

Checked out how to remove my mirrors for refurbishment as the alloy arms are somewhat pitted.
It looks to me it might be easier to rub down the arms in situ, but then to remove them for painting. I propose to use satin black? The danger I see is a) avoiding losing the mirror retaining bolts inside the doors and b) careful masking of the porto mirror cases when respraying the arms. I have purchased a spare mirror from Nigel to have a practice on first!
Other holiday jobs included removing the broken n/s grab handle ready for refitting a replacement (again!) and I gave my front seats some leather feeder. I'm also in the process of repainting my n/s wiper arm, having refitted the restored o/s one.

3 mirror bolts - either make a cardboard "cup" to catch them or use a magnet (my favourite is a telescopic jobbie)

Someone will be able to tell you how the mirror glass is secured on your 1998 model. If it's an older type there is a good howto here. For the spring-release "tool" something thin and firmish is ideal maybe like a hacksaw blade without teeth, about that width is good to get as much contact with the wire end as possible.

It's the hardest part getting the glass off until you get to the rearmost screws holding the plastic trim on, two IIRC. They can be seized so be patient with the aid of WD40.

For painting it's really a better job if you can dismantle it all.

Thanks for that Simon.
So you think I SHOULD dismantle them then!
Not sure if my mirrors are any different, but it is good to know what to expect behind the mirror (assuming my mug doesn't crack it first)
I'll give it a practice on my spare as and when it arrives...wish me luck!

Thanks again.

Having taken them apart a few times IMHO it would be easier for you to paint free of clutter.

This pic I found from one morning just about to leave for a meet last year



The honeycombed bit should still be attached to the mirror hood - I suspect someone gave this a knock passing by

If you look carefully the "spring" wire is visible running nearest the lh edge of the glass as you see it.

In the centre there's a straight edge about 2" long then it deviates by c.45 degrees each end. The lower end of the wire is continuous all the way round the back and meets up with the other loose end which you can just make out under where the black and black/red wires disappear into their sleeving.

As in the howto these ends are what you need to tease out from under their retainer groove.

If your is a newer type then have a read of this

Cheers again Simon.

Mark

Spent the afternoon cleaning up and preparing my latest replacement rocker cover, in readiness for swapping next week with the leaking one found to have a crack when the gasket was replaced.

Joe at FCSS will be replacing the front top mounts and bearings hopefully next Tuesday, weather permitting as we have been cut off due to the flooding!

Joe has kindly also agreed to take a look at why my rear window demister doesn't work? I have tried replacing the switch to no avail, so fingers crossed Joe will pin down the cause.

I have not really driven the Coupe really for over a month, so looking forward to getting a few things ticked off the list and taking her for a spin! I have been starting her up, backing her out of the garage at weekends and leaving her running just to keep everything from seizing up!

Any luck with the mirror?

Not tackled it yet, although I have checked out the retaining allen key bolts.
A spare wing mirror arrived this week to have a go with, but access to the spring clip looks very tricky!!!

I need to create the tool you referred to with your "how to guide" notes...

Ask Joe about it, it's his baby!

Will do....

Popped over to FCSS earlier this week and Joe worked his magic on the rear demister, alarm and replaced the top suspension mounts and bearings.

Joe aslo fitted the latest rocker cover, after the previous one arrived damaged in the post.
Thanks to Nigel for the latest rocker cover which came very carefully packaged, along with a few other goodiess I purchased from him.

So hopefully, that's put a stop to the oil leak! No sexy paint job, but a least it is fixed.

The remote control seems unfortunately a bit hit and miss (which perhaps is why the previous couple of owners did not use it?), so I am not sure why that is?
Good to know I can see out of the rear window now though:D

Lots still to do.
I hope to refurb the mirrors next, so I can look forward to a quite weekend of rubbing down!
Joe also kindly freed off some of the front bumper retaining bolts & mounts ready for me to remove the bumper and take a look at the front cross member etc for refurbishing.

Pleased to report the Pig is still alive and well

Please dont put the rear wiper back on Brilly - it disfigures the curves of a beautiful car - and you never take it out in the rain anyway!

The rain bit is a valid point Moz!
Not so sure about the beautiful back end though...

New Bosch battery ordered today via Euro-parts, as mine's no longer holding its charge.

Bit of a faff as europarts sent the wrong battery!
Took it to my local branch who swapped for the correct one, but with only a 3 yr guarantee rather than the original 4 plus I had to pay extra!!! They argued the correct battery was more expensive, but seemed to ignore I had ordered mine with a discount code, so the moral is make absolutely sure they are sending the correct battery.
They did at least take the old battery for disposal.

Booked her in with FCSS at the end of the month.

Not posted much of late, but had the Porto serviced at FCSS today (thanks Joe), where as well as new Millers 10/60 oil, new plugs, oil and fuel filters, the airbag warning light has been reset and so far stayed out.
Hopefully it will stay off permanently, thus ticking off another item.
Joe kindly took her out for a test drive and made lots of positive noises about the way she drove (whilst I held on for dear life ), so that seems encouraging!
The rear brakes also got a service, which I am learning is an often repeated process!

Going forward, high up on the "to do list" now are replacing the rear shocks (corroded) and the rear sub frame bushes.
I have also ordered another rocker cover, this time painted red with a polished plug cover.

Joe's latest loan car called Dimples (he can tell you the story! ) is another Scotts Green 20v, which sounded lovely and was a nice drive.

She drives really nicely Mark so don't be frightened to push the loud pedal, she won't break

It's my age Joe!
The self preservation instinct kicks in well before the turbo comes off boast!

Ah so what happened to the Pig?

The Pig is still alive and well Simon, I just needed a second courtesy car and Dimples was heading for Coupe heaven so I rescued it from the crusher.

Aye it'd get more than Dimples going in there

VG

New replacement batteries for the alarm remote control and the Clarion stereo remote control.
They work....
Simples!

Exhaust heat shield broken!

I quick run on Friday evening hampered by a disconcerting rattle which I thought was the exhaust coming loose?
Turned out to be the rear aluminium heat shield which has fractured where the back two clamps held it to the car.
It does not look repairable, so I need to track down another??? Not sure if without it, I should use the car?
Congrats btw to Germany!

Thanks to Joe at FCSS, the heat shield has been repaired, as well as a new a/c condenser fitted.

I have collected my refurbished slam panel via Gloucester Coatings and fitted a new coil pack cover sprayed red to brighten things up.

Joe has also fitted a new brake line to the o/s front, thus ticking another thing off the latest list.

I have lent the car to my old man for the weekend, so will have to wait a while before I can attempt to switch the slam panel.

Back from Joe at FCSS who has kindly fitted my refurbished slam panel today
The old one taken off really was completely shot!


I just need a few clips and to fit my replacement sticker set to finish it off!
PS. If anyone has any of the missing spare plastic clips, do please drop me a line. Thanks!

Summer's nearly over, but at least I have the aircon working now!
After having a new condenser fitted at Upton upon Severn, and various discovered leaks repaired, a company close to me called AC Automotive Ltd (Gloucester) did the rest. They came recommended and live next door to one of the country's biggest AC parts distributors.
The result is not what I would call icy cold, like in a modern car, but better than nothing at all.

The AC specialists had a lovely red 1972 Porsche 911 Targa in there, which had been left by a Porsche specialist in Bristol.

The recharge and UV dye test cost a very reasonable £35 inc vat.


That's another one hopefully ticked off for now......

Ordered a new set of hoses and clamps for the coupe today from Viper performance.
Only gone for the black though!

The Porto passed its MOT today.
Thus re taxed for 12 months although not planning to use to much over winter months.
Set of Viper performance (black) pipes to be fitted next week.

Had the full Viper coolant hoses fitted today by Joe.
The old ones came off looking very second hand!
Looking to put her away now for winter.

Some of them were like jelly

Refurbed CR Turbo currently with Joe ready for fitting a week Monday. My current 120k unit emits smoke on start up, but gives good boast, so I hope the refurb will run just as well.
Thanks to Big Muzzie for handbrake centre console which will keep me busy rubbing off all the old rubber gunk.
All constructive suggestions on how to get a good finish welcome!

Re getting rid of the gunk - meths, microfibre cloth, lots of elbow grease!

Why thank you Moz
Did you take the plunge a buy that Coupe you where watching on eb*y???

Fun isn't it!

If your anything like me to get a good finish:

Wife goes out
heating on full whack
fire on
vacuum / dust local vicinity
big box aka spray booth
spray car parts in front room
once you have the desired amount of coats open all windows and hope she never finds out!

A nice dry, warm dust free area to paint is key. Nice thin coats. Just try not to paint things you shouldn't (and pain being flammable if you have a living flame fire be extra careful).

Don't buff to too much of a shine, I aimed for a finish like the dash strip, sort of satin.

Cheers Big Muz I have began by trying to get the blasted rivets off so I can remove the handbrake gaiter.
Quite a painful job (literally) but I hope to avoid breaking any of the plastic. Not sure what finish I'll go with, probably just satin or gloss black, although the colours of the Italian flag might appeal for something different?

those rivets are total hell. I Couldn't believe how many were used to hold the gaiter on the first time I saw it.
Love to see it done as the Italian flag, I assume a Porto console may be a bit 'much'.

The other option might be to go for a plastidip finish?
Probably more appropriate on the inside than the outside!
Certainly agree a Porto finish would be a tad OTT!

Had to push the Porto out of my garage today, as the battery was totally flat.
Not sure why, as I have fitted a new battery and started her up a couple of times leaving the engine run a couple of times over the winter? One suspicion is the boot was not fully shut which went unnoticed under the car cover.
Having charged her up this afternoon, took a brief run to a chippy in Littledean, FoD.
First drive in a few months just to check all is ok before I drive over to Upton on Severn for fitting the new turbo

This is strange Mark, even with the boot resting shut and not locked it shouldn't of been a problem as the boot light should still of been off.

I'll run some tests Monday to see if there's a drain somewhere.

Many thanks Joe!

Newly refurbished turbo by CR Turbos fitted courtesy today of FCSS.


Cheers Joe
Another big item ticked off of the list!

Just where does this fabled list end

Probably with a completely new car Simon!

I have used mentholated spirits at the weekend to clean up a spare handbrake console so that's hopefully a cosmetic item which I can do with myself, without recourse to Joe's spanners!

How's the famous Bee going?

FCSS have plenty on, judging by the number of Coupe's in situ...

This I will have to see, if I'm allowed next time I'm down there

The Bee is quite enjoyed it's little chip again thank you after experimenting with a standard one for a while, but it's really fed up with the lunar surfaces on our local roads and throwing up rattles and squeaks from the interior trim which I'll attend to in the lighter evenings soon, oh and a wobbly passenger seat back which I'm sure could be taken apart, but a bit of a nuisance for a daily driver.

Console.... mainly popping out the window switches to reveal the big (?Phillips) screws on the tunnel securing the two metal brackets. Good when it's done!

Yep, FCSS will be a lot less cluttered once Barnacle clears out all his tackle

Everyone's a critic!

Don't let Joe forget to fill that hole up with something, Brilly - you know how he is...

Glad to here the Bee is going well, even if it means playing ski slalom around the pot holes. The lanes around mean are just as bad, in fact I had to replace a snapped front coil on 2 of my cars in the last three years

Just left the old girl ticking over on the drive for about 15 mins this afternoon and have to marvel at the complete absence of white/grey smoke!!!
It seems strange not to have to worry about something that has troubled me increasingly since I got the car approx. 2 years ago....

Had another go at getting the rivets off the handbrake console this afternoon. By way of a bit of filing and manoeuvring with a couple of broad flat bladed screw drivers, they finely came free!

With the gaiter finally out the way, the meths did the trick of removing the rest of the remaining black gunge.

Now to think about the painting.
Propose to start with a suitable undercoat for the plastic.

Ah, the effect of the Spring

Your right, not such an appealing job in a cold winter garage!

"Garage to do list...."

The journey continues....booked in with Joe at FCSS in October for some attention to bits of corrosion which have emerged in a couple places!
Otherwise the heater fan seems to have decided to jack in?
Heat is coming through whether you want it or not, but the fans are not working?
First off I'll start with checking the fuses....

Sounds like the direction flap behind the centre console might have got jammed? Also there's a bit of sponge rubber which can come unstuck from the perimeter of the rectangular vent hole behind there.

Does the fan not work at all even on Auto? If you were digging around in there it's a good opperchancity to check if the rear of the buttons is sound, also the wee thermo fan located mid-console....

Had new rear shock absorbers and springs fitted by Joe at FCSS couple of weeks ago.
Dropped off a spare handbrake centre console at my local paint shop for re-spraying satin black.
I did the prep by cleaning off all of the black sticky gunge and removing the plastic handbrake gaiter and metal frame.
If they do a good job I'll hopefully get the windscreen wiper plenum(?) done next just to smarten things up.

I need to tighten up the Clarion stereo fixings somehow, as it seems to be the only thing now making a noise whilst going over bumps.
She's driving as well as I can ever remember and I'm suddenly reluctant to lock her away!

That's more fighting talk!

Did you get the heater issue sorted?

Tarnished connections on the 30amp fuse, quick wiggle and it resolved the blower issue, and Mark's erratic idling issue was down to a TPS failure.

As Joe said Simon!
Cheers

****silly question alert****

What's the TPS?

Throttle Position Sensor.

Check: http://www.fiatcoupeclub.org/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1183766

Switched over my refurbished handbrake centre console having been resprayed satin black by Gloucester Coatings.
Bit of metholated spirits on the wing mirror control and all looks much better than Mozzies previous hand painted one!

Looking to find some thin rubber mat to trim for the storage slot?

Thanks to Joe at FCSS for sorting out my brakes today after I cooked the fluid at Brands recently.
A huge improvement and hopefully by also switching to some OE pads, the "bite" I have been looking for can be found!

How's the induction noise with that K&N?

Sounded pretty fruity as you left the yard

Well Danny grinned his head off all the way home!

Fruitiness = fantastic.
It's rare these days that you can tell what car is coming down the road just by listening to it.
My friend has a 5 pot diesel Transporter with a nice exhaust and that sounds good.
But a Coupe, with a modified induction system?
Good call

Yes, it just adds that extra something, which makes you feel you are driving a car with "personality".
Sorry to read about the corrosion on your 156.
I too have a few rust issues as well, which need a "plan" of attack!

Just ordered a new Hella starter motor from Mr Auto along with a new bonnet strut.
Should be with me after the bank holiday!

Porto is away hopefully having the roof laquer peel sorted.
Fingers are crossed for a successful return!

Hey, how many things left on the list? !

She's like the proverbial broom Simon

Back from the paint shop and I'm pretty happy with the job done to tidy up the roof, boot and each rear three-quarters.

She looks very tidy, great job. I had alomst the same work done a few years ago, I can imagine you are very chuffed with the result!

To coin a phrase, Brill!

Yes, I am pretty chuffed thanks.
I feel the car now does look more in keeping with the effort & money spent on the mechanical side.
Still plenty to do though!

Very good Simon!

My cigarette lighter works absolutely fine BUT, if I try to use it for a satnav or dash cam, the power supply keeps dropping out as the fit seems different to all my other vehicles???

Anyone suggestions?

For reasons I have never understood, there was no great standardisation of lighter sockets until a few years after the coupe - when a slightly smaller diameter was decided on.

Some adaptors have a nice fat spring that makes better contact; but for some I still have to stick a folded business card in to make it all tighter (while still ensuring that the contact gets made).

Thanks Barnacle, that makes sense as mine works ok for its intended purpose, but not for anything we might describe as new millennium!
I'll give the folded business card a go - I was disappointed not to have been able to record my recent Prescott hill climbs, hence the desire to check out what the problem was.

Now you know why you get a handful of business cards in the membership pack

Useful!

Tinypic test
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Press 'quote' to see what's deleted Mark.....viz. the IMG bit.

It's the Direct Link on the Tinypic photo


Nice pic by the way!

Retest Tinypic


Cheers Simon!

Minor adjustment there.....

They do become pretty big when you click on them?
Still it is nice to post pics again after the photobucket malarkey! These test ones where before I had the roof and boot re-sprayed.

Yes the becomes a decent size. Some good shots I trust you enjoyed yourself?!

Yes it was great fun, if slightly daunting for a track novice!
Car performed well until a bit of brake fade suggested it was time to quit whilst ahead!
Having stretched its legs, it fairly flew home

New tyres fitted to rear matching fronts - Goodyear Efficiency Grip in prep of my Zurich trip at the weekend.

How does it feel and the vibration now?

Said the Bishop to the Barmaid ...

Better than before, but at a 130kmh a vibration is still sadly present

Still, 1500 miles in three days and the old girl did pretty well....

Whilst on my Zurich trip, I had a mystery fault relating to the right-hand indicator?

Whilst driving on the French toll roads, the right-hand indicator stopped working, but then would intermittently go again???

Oddly has so far been fine in UK!!!
Hazards worked fine, therefore the problem might be to do with the indicator stalk?

The Porto has been pretty much laid up for winter until today.
Nice to be behind the wheel again!
A quick trip to bodywork specialists in Gloucester as I have more paint planned to further tidy up the bodywork, having sorted the lacquer peel on the roof and faded boot in 2017.

Dropped into Polite Bodyshop today to discuss issues found.
Extra corrosion found on offside rear chassis leg meaning the fuel tank has to come out, which was not part of the original plan.

Collection after repairs and new paint

Shiny!

Looking good Brilly, and great that you are still updating this thread

Cheers Gunzi and Barnacle

The bonnet has had all the rust cut out and been welded, resprayed inside and out.


Still lots to be done!

Keep at it. You might have to wait 20 yrs to get your money back!
I have and really can't believe how 2 heaps of 50 yr plus rare FIAT junk have repaid me for thw care I have given them.
I'm now trying it with a '95 16vNA!

Nice one!!

Not far from six years later and nearly 52,000 posts this qualifies for a "legend" thread

Cheers Simon
Pity I lost the original Photobucket pics!
(I wonder if it is possible to put them in over the original posts, so I can revisit the journey?)

Year to date since the extensive welding and paint earlier this Spring, major work has taken place to replace MTEC front discs and pads with Brembos, along with Bigred refurbished brake calipers front & rear.
Joe at FCSS has furthermore replaced numerous copper and braided brake pipes, the rear compensator and worked on the abs etc.
Previous efforts had proved frustrating (possibly due to some brake fluid contamination), but now it is possible to enjoy the drive once again!

Next up the Porto is booked back into having further paint and welding done, namely;
1. Replacement N/S wing.
2. Respray front and rear bumpers.
3. Remove rust/weld repairs to N/S rear wheel arch.
4. Remove any rust/weld N/S sill.
5. Respray N/S door and respray 4 & 5 as required.
6. Tidy up under bonnet a few of the rougher looking areas.

Ps. Does anyone know where the link is to remove the ashtray surround from the lower dash, so I can remove the last remaining sticky black gunk???!!!

Ashtray gunk now removed and porto colour centre dash fitted for assessment!

Excellent, it’s great to read this thread as you update it. A true testament to keeping your Coupe!

Thanks Gunzi.
The car has been a fiscal black hole, but fundamentally because it has a really strong engine, I felt it deserved to be progressively renovated.
I am really looking forward to the forthcoming bodywork and paint which means it should finally almost look as good as it goes!

Having acquired it 6 years ago, the plan is it is a keeper.
If only my Alfa Spider 939 went as well!

Dropped the Porto off at Polite Auto Bodyshop in Gloucester today for further work as per earlier post.
A bit wary of what they will find within the nearside sill, but I am due to pop by Tuesday to see what they find.
Hopefully, it will not be a severe as the offside rust was!

Porto painted centre console fitted a couple of weeks ago.

Still getting used to it, but it certainly adds a bit of colour?

I like that, a lot! Looks almost factory as if it was made to be colour coded ! Nice work mate !

Agreed that does look very good.

I would say it looks more OE than if it were Sprinty or Wine Red

Brilly1uk I see you have completed this already but for anyone reading this thread for info I found it easiest to just remove the fascia and then the centre console and renovate off the car. The screws for the ash tray surround are then easily removed from the back of the console when it is on the bench.

If anyone remembers the pictures of my 'wooden dash', I had to source a new fascia from a breakers.



This had gone sticky so I refinished in Plastidip which has done a remarkable job. I removed all sticky dash with nail varnish remover. Word of caution - use just a standard nail varnish remover from Sainsbury, not the extra strength branded versions as I found these pit the plastic itself. A Spontex 'Brilliant' non-stick scourer helps remove the sticky without scratching the plastic.









The original Clarion radio cassette doesn't work in mine and since I'm just going to enjoy the 5-pot sound I have replaced it with a Din size tray in which I have fitted a couple of USB ports to charge phones.

Nice job Iain with the plastic paint spray.
Love the wooden dash though - just needs a veneer!

Has anyone got an idea how to go about replacing some of the rubber insulation, electrical wire hosing, rubber sockets, clips etc found on pretty much everything under the bonnet?
20 odd years have seen mine beginning to perish or crumble and as everything else gradually gets tidied it looks pretty conspicuous!
Presumably a significant issue for all modern classics?
Are there any (wiring loom?) specialists who stock new or as new replacements?
I suspect nothing would be available from Fiat?

They do a sprint blue creosote in B&Q. The previous owner was a carpenter so made sense to stick with what he knew and use a bit of skirting board. However, the main problem is the birch he has used for the anti-roll bars.

Brilly you can buy the rubber boots on ebay, although I"m not sure how easy they are to change, presumably you need to unwire each connector to be able to slip the new boot over then resit the wires back in the connector.

I was advised to use self amalgamating tape - not as pretty but just as effective.

You need some sort of extraction tool to allow you to remove all the terminals (male or female spade connectors) from the connector "plug". The official tools are ridiculously expensive but you can get multi-purpose tools with a number of different "prongs" and all they do is push a small locking tab into the terminal so that it is no longer "locked" in position and you can pull the wire and connector out. I'm looking to get one myself, it's on the list of things to do...

I'd suggest making a list of the connectors you want to replace the rubber "boots" on, and then buy a stock of them in bulk (all the different sizes you want) to bring the unit cost down. Most of the connectors are AMP or "junior power timer".

Tackle one connector at a time, noting the colour and position of each wire in each block, perhaps checking them against the wiring and connector diagrams in the workshop manual for reference and future info. Release all the "spades" using your tool of choice (and retrieve the "seals" if fitted), then remove the knackered boots, replace insulation and replace boots with new items before reinserting the pins and seals (not forgetting to pull out the locking tabs first). Removing and replacing the spades should not cause any problems, but it's possible that a locking tab might break off, the spade might be in bad condition (corroded) or the wiring damaged, so that you might need to cut off a spade, cut back some insulation, and crimp a new spade on. There are many different sizes so you may want to buy in a stock of the most common sizes.

For the insulation around groups of wires (the loom) consider using self-amalgamating tape rather than ordinary For insulation tape, although I'm not convinced that the former lasts any better. The problem with insulation tape is that normally the ends come unstuck and then the unsticky bits work backwards from the ends. IIRC there are "end caps" that can be used to finish off a run of tape neatly?

That's what I'd start by doing anyway...

I bought a MAC TOOLS 6 piece wire terminal release tool kit some years ago,
haven`t used yet, but looks good quality. The p/no. is ITC RK-6PC.

Re. wiring loom I did a quick tidy up of the coil loom when I changed the spark plugs, Tesa 51026 is good for that.

For wiring, heat shrink tubing and spiral binding or convoluted tubing works well. You can obviously use fresh electrical tape where required or Tesa 51026 if you prefer.

Some of the rubber covers over the wiring plugs have seen better days on mine. I don't know what can be done about this because even if you can buy replacements, you would have to pop the wires out of the plugs to fit, which is a real pain.

I suppose you can always replace knackered plugs with superseal connectors.

Thanks all.
I take there are no specialists in supplying refurbished wiring looms and the like?
I would have thought this would have quite a market for post fuel injection cars?

A visit to the bodyshop today to see progress so far.
As suspected, it has confirmed my worries about the welding needed on the nearside.
Broadly speaking it looks like a repeat of the offside!
I mentioned the Coupe was supposedly originally galvanised which raised a laugh!
A similar vintage A6 Allroad also in the shop, was said to have no rust at all.
Presumably, Fiat had a different idea about galvanisation to Audi?

The galvanisation was only supposed to ensure the Coupe made it to 10 years old without completely rusting away like they did in the 1970s and 1980s. Considering that most Coupes around now have made it to 20 years does represent progress!

And how do you know the Audi hasn't lived a sheltered life compared to your Coupe? You could place two Coupes side by side, one looking the worse for wear and the other looking in great condition, all down to how they have been (mis)used and (not)cared for over the years...

Re AMP rubber boots - they're getting a bit thin on the ground now; last time I looked AMP/TYCO had stopped making them, though they still made the connectors and pins.

True enough.
My own A6, a few years ago, began to show some rust in the wheel arches after 200k. Undoubtedly caused by muck trapped between the wheel arch and wheel arch liners.
For some reason, my Coupe seems to have deteriorated significantly in the last two or three years, despite it being mostly garaged over winter.

Candidate perhaps for a group buy or possible project?

Looks like there's a newer range out that should fit 2, 3, or 4 pin connectors (different part numbers, obviously): https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-accessories/3662077/ is for the 3-pin connectors.

It's not as nice (pretty) as the original covers from 25 years ago, but should do the trick. You can also obtain the pin removal tool so you can use original housings and wiring, replacing the often split covers.

Thanks Barnacle. Has anyone created a replacement/comparison list which might be useful for those thinking about setting out on this daunting task?

It's something I've been thinking about for a while. I've started to make an inventory of connectors in the engine compartment (others around the car have survived intact, it must be the engine heat that makes them split over time) and there is a mix of AMP Superseal and JPT (with boots) and Delphi MetriPack (no boots) plus others that I have come across. I'd also like a new boot for the brake fluid level switch, not sure where to look for that, I don't know the OE manufacturer.

I've got a cheap set of connector pin extractors on the way, first step is to see if I can get any of the pins out of any connectors...

The original "concertina" boots seem to be readily available on eBay, but perhaps not all sizes.

mr.obsessed on ebay usually has boots, the type Neil has linked seem to be fitted on Alfa 145 and Lancia Thema where the coupe has a concertina type.
Female superseal are easy, just needs a small screwdriver.
Males require removal tool for the red clip. I think a big factor in the damage over time of engine bay boots is also the human maulage.
Did the fluid reservior connector originally have a boot?

Yes.

I haven`t found a picture of a car with one yet.
How about the screen wash pump connector?
I have found 3waycomp on ebay very useful.

Here's a picture of of the brake fluid level switch boot clicky (with some self-amalgamating tape wrapped around to keep it in one piece, and removed from reservoir whilst doing some work on the brakes)

Here'e a collection of parts I bought well over 10 years when looking to make up a batch of Sykes ACR harnesses (I still have all the parts, I ought to make them up and shift them on ). And the all important rubber boots - note that I got them from Fiat!

And here's how a typical AMP Superseal connector goes together with female connector with male pins and male connector and female pins

There are 3 sizes for the terminal pins and the little seals (yellow, green and red).

I suppose it's always possible that Fiat might still have stock of some of the boots, I will investigate that along with other sources whilst making up my inventory/shopping list...

The different terminal pin sizes relate to the cables that crimp correctly to them. As far as I recall the mating surfaces are the same size and compatible between sizes.

That was excellent foresight DaveG!
It would be great to know we could still get hold of these or fit for purpose alternatives?

I echo Brilly1uk,

My connectors are in the normal ravaged condition.

And with poor connections and bad earths affecting many a owners coupe- these are on the to do list.

Regards

MM

A few photos showing the ongoing nearside welding repairs.

...and a few more showing the rust to the nearside floor.

Looks like some reasonable surgery to correct the rot, post up once all complete

For viewing first pic...



This looks like the shape of things to come Mark for many of us. Great that you're going to the trouble

Hopefully not Simon - I think I have just been a bit unlucky!

When I first acquired the car I had it looked over to see what the rust situation was like before deciding to invest too much, and was given a fairly decent bill of health.

Perhaps father time has just caught up with mine?

However moving forward - breaking it down into different steps has hopefully helped make significant progress.
I was hoping this time around, I would get all the major cosmetics done, but as the nearside rust refurb proved as needy as the offside, the front and rear bumper repaint will have to wait!

Thanks Gunzi - will do!

This is helping fill the Coupe void while the Porto is away.

Should probably put this stuff in a new thread, but I'll carry on here for now, us Porto owners have to stick together!

The most common connectors are the AMP Superseal 1.5 series. The female pins in the male housing are easy enough to remove, just unclip the red piece at the end to reveal the pins, and tease the plastic clips up away from the pins whilst pulling on the wire to withdraw the pin from the back.

The male pins in the female housing are more tricky to remove. Again you need to remove the red piece, but it's inside the housing past the pins. You need a small wire like a hook (a paper clip unfolded, with a small 90° bend at the end will do, small enough to fit through the square hole between pins. You'l need to tug on this whilst using another thin flat blade to press down on the clip at the top of the red bit. Once release, that little red bit might come flying out, so be sure not to tug too hard.

The other most common connector in the junior power timer (JPT) usually in 2 or 3 pin varieties, as used on the injectors, coil packs, ICV, variator, cam sensor, knock sensors, etc. The female connector has a metal clip that needs to be released, and on most of the connectors it pushes towards the middle. But there are two high current 2 pins JPT connectors on the radiator fan and A/C fuse/relay box on top of the washer bottle on early 20v/20vt cars. The metal clip on these JPT connectors has to be wrestled out of the groove it sits in using some force to drive out the ends of the square shape "C". And then once removed, releasing the pins is a pain too, there is a small clip in the centre that splits into two prongs, you need to push the prongs together whilst pushing down to push the clip out through the back of the connector. You can see the connector, metal clip and plastic centre clip in these pics pic1 pic2 pic3 pic4 pic5

On that same fuse/relay box there is a 7 pin JPT connector, this one has a clip over at the back of the connector that keeps the wires/seals in place, this needs to be unclipped before the wires/pins can be removed (and the pins still need to be unclipped from the housing). See pic6

The 11 piece terminal remover kit I got has found some use, but only a few of the pieces have been any use, and even then the "paper clip tool" is still needed.

This might be an option if it fits, or as they state, it can be taken apart and fixed to existing cap
https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/brake-fluid-reservoir-cap-with-2-pin-plug-and-fly-leads

That looks a good find Rob.

That could work, but the thread diameter is not given. In my experience of old Fiats (124s) when using an Eezibleed kit was that none of the supplied caps fitted and I made do with a old cap and drilled a hole for the pipe. I suspect the Coupe cap is still the same size, in much the same way that 4x98 PCD wheels was pretty much the Fiat standard...

But worth investigating, a whole lot neater than the cumbersome OE setup!

Something like this might do instead? Heat Shrink Boot

Agreed Dave.

I was going to try one a while back but they never got back to me regarding thread size. Might still have a closer look, 12 quid isn't the end of the world.

Popped in to see progress...welding all done and now back in the spray booth having undercoat and underbody protection applied.

Looks tidy Mark - are they a couple of new patches in the arch painted black in the first pic?

Well spotted Simon! - Unexpectedly, the nearside has needed even more work than the offside
Picking her up Saturday so will post the completed pics then.
Front and rear bumpers still to do, having prioritised the other more important jobs.

Yes, well we have a small hole each side in a similar position on our project car too .......

How is that going?
Are you still working on it outdoors?

(PS Just noticed - over 10k posts Simon!)

Yes outdoors I'm afraid so work will inevitably fade quite soon as the clocks change - unfortunately the main "engineering" contributor has regular weekend commitments so daytime work then is virtually non-existent

Sounds tricky - hope it goes well and you keep well wrapped up!

Picked up the Porto lunchtime yesterday from the paint shop.



Front and rear bumper on the pending list.

Looking lovely!

Yep, very nice..... that should last a while Mark hopefully

Thanks guys
Couple of things to sort before tucking her away for winter, but hopefully major progress made at least with the bodywork.

Mark your pics have gone awol suddenly - for me at least....

OK for me (at work even, whereas Photobucket not available at work for some reason)

Now working again

I have noticed it for a little while, but someone has had a go at my 20vt b-pillar badges on both sides snapping part of the "flashes" off

As I have new b-pillars to fit on, I need to try and locate replacement 20vt badges if anyone has any available?

Might have to resort to another colour and have them repainted?

Took the opportunity for a small road trip this week, detouring along the A5 to take in the sites such as anglers flyfishing in the River Dee. A 400 mile round trip in one day and she drove very well.



Makes all the effort worthwhile?

Right hand indicator has started to be sporadic again?
Seems ok one minute then doesn't work?
Then goes again?????

Not working, or just not cancelling?

Great pic BTW

What a lovely Coupe with a background like that..

I have to ask, I assume that the lowers of your front and rear bumper and sills were originally black..? Have the sills been painted same as the body work or flashed over with Porto paint to the original black coating?

Thanks ScouseCoupe! Nice of you to say so.
As you put it, the scenery isn't too bad!
It has always had blue sills etc in my tenure, but was evidently painted that way at some point by a previous owner.
The recent refurb gave me the opportunity to revert to original and in fact the sills were indeed restored in black before the Portofino topcoat was applied back on.
I quite like the look of it in one colour without a bodykit, as it shows off the purity of the original design?
Pity it was not clean for the pic, but she had just done circa 175 miles at that point of my journey and the day had started off wet in Glos.
Front and rear bumpers still to be done.

Left turn indication is fine.
Righthand is intermittent. It now can say work for a couple of flashes and then stop altogether.
I have since discovered the righthand small side wing indicator bulb has come loose and is dangling within the wing!
Now to work out how to access it?
I either need to remove the wing or the internal wheel arch guards?

Remove the two hex bolts (10mm IIRC) at the top of the wing Mark, you don't take it completely off nor the archliner.

It remains secured at the bottom by two more bolts a few inches apart but there is enough flexibility to reach down behind to extract the indicator without damaging the panel.

Cheers Simon.
A tad wet outside to do it immediately but hopefully will have a go in the morning.
Fingers crossed its nothing else - especially with a MoT due shortly!

There's a third 10mm bolt at the top / front, but often it's either missing or still screwed in behind the wing, if care is not taken to make sure it's fitted properly before doing up all the bolts at the top.

Thanks Dave
I will look out for it.

I'll be looking for this!

Hopefully you'll both find both! I just checked, and the bolt goes through a hole on the top/front edge of the wing to a nut behind. There's a vertical piece that sticks up from the top of the wheel arch liner with a cut-out/hole and this is supposed to tuck in behind the top/front edge of the wing and be held secure when the bolt if tight.

However, the wheel arch liner can easily drop and leave the bolt/nut a little loose where they may fall out, or even if they are still there, the wheel arch liner is not attached, ad so the bolt if often forgottn about when "opening up" or removing the wing.

Well these are the only two bolts I know about....and yes, that one can drop and allow the arch liner to get perilously close to my 17's!

Thanks to great instructions from Dave G and Edinburgh, I was able to access the right-hand indicator wiring which was hanging loose within the offside wing.



I firstly loosened off the top two 10mm hex bolts (one behind the black foam) and then carefully the front 10mm hex bolt which holds up the wheel-arch guards. With this one, I only loosened it off just enough that the circlip remained on behind the wing, but allowed the wing and guard to separate.



With this loose, I took the top two hex bolts completely out and the wing was free enough to allow me to access the side indicator wiring which had become disconnected.



The indicator wire and bulb was cleaned up and I then pushed it back into the rubber sleeve which holds it.



The above picture shows the retaining clip on the inside of the wing.



Having carefully put it back together, tightening the wheel arch guard first and then the top two hex bolts pushing the wing alignment back in.
Pleased to say the indicator (so far) is back working)!

Thanks again for the expert advice Dave and Simon.

Easy and satisfying fix, well done

Cheers Simon!

Thanks to yours and Dave's description, I've noticed the body shop have not replaced the one bolt holding the mudguards up correctly on the left hand side, (following the most recent restoration work!)

I had noticed the internal wheel guard was hanging low, but had not realised why! Now I somehow need to find a replacement hex bolt and possibly the retaining clip!!!

Is this the equivalent?



I invented a "hex" er, phillips bolt


and along with a fairing clip it's been holding.

Coupe hack

I would say so Simon!
Hopefully I will be able to "fashion" something similiar.

I discovered tonight after a day when the indicator was on "good" behavior, it has started playing me up again on right turns????

Not sure now what is causing the issue and the MoT approaches ever closer!

Perhaps the connection has become er, disconnected again?

It'll take less time to check it now

You've checked for cracks in the tracks on the circuit board inside the 'relay'? Per the howto?

Interesting suggestions chaps - another one from someone well known to you is the bulb connection has become rusty and may need replacing.

What's the view on having the rear wiper reinstalled?

Any views on refitting the rear wiper???
The former owner of my Porto is desperate I do not put it back as he feels it spoils the look?
The screen itself stays pretty clear without the wiper, so I do not think it really adds much in the way of practical benefit, but the rubber plug I have can on occasion pop out and I fear it being lost inadvertently when closing the door.

I have never really subscribed to the view that the car looks better without the rear wiper and it does help clear the screen on occasion.

Thanks BBR
Let us see what the first 5 people on here think about the rear wiper - on or off???
1. BBR - On.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Oh, go on then...

1. BBR - On.
2. Edinburgh - On
3.
4.
5

Right Mark, where are our prizes?

The 35mm black plastic "kitchen hinge hole covers" fit perfectly, eg. ebay # 361964220152. Just needs a little black silicone to seal it in place.



To me it looks much better... if you check pics of all the modern Ferrari or Maserati coupes you won't find any with rear wipers and they'd all look worse with them. Like the front wiper jets being on the arms rather than the bonnet, sacrifice a little utility for style. And if you only use your coupe on dry days then there's really no down side at all.

But you "do" live in Glasgow Graham

Haha, well yes there's the down side of only getting to use it twice a year, but as far as removing the rear wiper there's no down side to a "dry use only" coupe.

Maybe you should remove the front wipers between MOT's

If they sat vertically up the screen at rest like the rear wiper then I wouldn't rule it out.

So which of these would look better with a rear wiper...









(if my engine wasn't still in bits I'd at least have rolled it out the garage )

The attachment you really need Graham is this

to get rid of the dust your coop is collecting

No prizes Simon, but I think Graham's earlier pic of the boomerang Maserati might count!

Neat installation Graham.
One of the "on's" on the list, might have declared a vested interest!

New MoT picked up this evening.
Couple of advisories, but big relief all the chassis welding has sorted out the immediate concerns.
Thanks to both FCSS and Polite Auto Body Repairs for their sterling efforts during 2018.

Planning to have the front (and possibly rear) bumper refurbished mid-Jan 2019.
Slightly apprehensive about what lies hidden behind the bumpers!

if you need the Polystyrene crash pad that sits behind the bumper . I’ve got one off this scrapper . .

Possibly.....more probably though will be thoroughly rusted bumper "hangers"?

Pair of front hangers purchased this week from Partsworld in readiness of latest pending paintwork.

Previous restoration pictures from nearside starting with the front wheel arch.
Welding again carried out by Polite Autos Gloucester.

Further welding resto work from the nearside rear wheel arch.

Looks pretty thorough Mark...terrifying how the corrosion gets such a hold

My n/s sill (and other areas) has similar troubles and will need sorting also..

I know pictures like that fairly well.

I had almost the identical issues, both the front arches behind the splash guards/liners had rotted(sills were/are sound as a pound both outers and inners along the length) it had rotted out both sides to a bigger extent than in your photos at the end of the sills where it met the arches and above I think, I also had the rear os along the boot seam/fuel tank area cut out welded and repainted; nearly 2 years ago by JBT and all good still thankfully.

Have to say the rot was not visible exterior-wise at all as was behind the liners, nor was the rear boot seam save for a small rusty mark on the boot floor! A sigh of relief when all was done and the underseal topped up (no real corrosion on floorplan). I reckon there are a fair few horrors lurking on a fair few Coops out there, glad I got mine done.

Hate driving the Coop in the bad weather with salted roads, luckily it has been cold but relatively dry down South so salt spray has not been such an issue this year on the infrequent days I have used her.

Rear eiffel's are on the radar at some point as the bottom of one crumbled into dust a few months ago

Can you pm me some details? Saw nothing on their website...cheers. J

I need the other side to the one that I already have, but TBH I reckon that a fabricated replacement of just the Eiffel Tower bit itself (and not the large amount of metal above) would be just as good if not better.

Hi Simon
Yes, the corrosion has gone on to the point where it all needs sorting or she would soon be too gone to save!
Very pleased with the efforts of Polite Autos who specialise in resto work and seem to have some skilled and sympathetic fabricators. Highly recommended.
I also had the nearside floor and sill done and will post some pics of that work.

Found them on fleabay?
Not sure they are the eiffel towers others are referred to though.

Pictures of nearside sill and passenger side floor welding.

We both seem to have gone down the same road!
At least we know what has been addressed going forward.

Thyey're not the eiffels, but are what I was referring to anyway!Cheers

You have a PM Jonny.

No i dont!

I've tried again...

Current dilemma!

Pair of Eiffels and a radiator support. Doesn't Joe supply them?

Sadly out of stock I believe, but I have pm'd him.

Many thanks to Joe at FCSS today, for helping out with a couple of key bits needed for the latest bit of resto work on the front end.

Cross member chassis leg nearside front existing rust.

They'll have to fabricate that section Mark, it's part of the flitch outer panel, not cross member.

Thanks Joe.

Bonnet retaining mount(?) pre resto having removed slam panel.

Doesn't that belong a bit nearer the bottom corner of the windscreen?

I am sure your right Simon!
Now discovered bonnet release cable loop in need of replacement - any tips?

Once you've got the screw clamp undone you might still have enough good cable to create a new, shorter, loop.

On another occasion I cannibalised some spare bike brake cable, formed a loop by folding it back on itself and jointed it on to the good cable after cutting off the frayed part.

Or you can cut out the frayed bit and screw one end of the cable into a chocolate block which then is placed behind the metal bracket that the loop normally goes around.

If you follow me....

Maybe this would help...

View from rhs of cable clamp tensioned behind slotted bracket
Most coupes have the cable looped around this bracket resulting in fraying over time, usually exactly when you need to open the bonnet in an emergency

The last fettle was to extract the entire cable from the cabin end and insert a new bike brake cable - coupla quid

I was thinking the same Simon - would a cycle brake or gear cable be sufficient?
How did you join it?

I have just seen your response to my "Parts wanted" post! Thank you.
Not sure why, but I cannot respond via that route?
I was hoping it could be done locally at the engine bay end!

You could also (subject to there being enough slack), shorten the outer cable by say an inch, or two depending on it's route, this would then give you one or two inches of fresh cable on the inner.
Doesn't even need to be a loop - could utilise a cable nipple either side of the operating bracket

This is such an easy issue to resolve, but it's being made into a real meal!

Don't touch the outer part of the cable!
Cut the end off the old inner by the catch so it's a clean cut, pull out the old inner from inside the car.
Buy a tandem rear brake cable, feed in from the drivers foot well, loop it over the side bracket by the catch, that's the bracket that has a small hole in it so it doesn't fall off causing the owner to curse profusely threatening to burn the car.... feed it back on itself through a locking ring, done.

Bet that's not on your To-Do list Mark

You say that Simon, but the thought has occurred to me with the various issues over the last couple of years!

Thanks for the suggestion Joe.
I just have to get the small mechanical part of my brain to visualise it! A tandem cable presumably provides the necessary length? Will I be able to do this when I get the car back - i.e. they have put the slam panel etc. all back together again????

Measure the cable Mark and make sure the one you get from the bike shop covers it - you get shorter ones. Also check the shape of the lead pellet which sits in the handle recess.

Yes you can do this easily with everything back in place, it's like inserting a stent, they can leave all your legs and bits alone

Great description, Coupé Doctor

That's helped me visualise it all too well Simon!

Welding within offside front wheel arch.

Welding to the front crash bar

Superb - now to find me a Shimano MTB brake cable.
Big thanks Simon!

Going to pick the Porto up this afternoon after major front end/engine bay refurb.
Here's hoping all is well!!!

Shimano MTB Tandem brake cable arrived in the post for proposed replacing bonnet cable.

Impressive coordination Mark, busy weekend then!

Back home!

More front end refurb pics - Offside - strip down and welding work.

Behind slam panel refurb

Pity all the tinypic photos have gone the same way as photobocket!
Latest upgrades to the porto are refurbished headlights by Marius - see Coupe Facebook page.
They certainly sharpen up the exterior look of the car.
Waiting to hear from Joe when we can get her on the ramps to sort out the rear suspension.

My Porto has had a bit of post-winter storage fettling & TLC.

Firstly thanks to Joe at FCSS for fitting my replacement front windscreen purchased a couple of years ago via his group buy.
A bit of welding to the scuttle and a replacement fuel injector has got her back on the road.

"Back to black" - decided to swap back my centre console from Portofino blue to satin black.
Very pleased with the results.

I would post some pics but not sure if we still can????

Thread resurrection!

Yes Mark, for pics click Use Full Editor then Attachment Manager - you can upload up to 5 pics each post (more in For Sale ads) but no larger than 2MB per pic

Thanks Simon - I will give it a go.
I was surprised how long it has been since I last posted on this thread!

Hopefully I've finally resolved that failing fuel injector issue mark.

She was running much better on the way back home Joe, so yes I think you have - many thanks!

Before and after centre console pics.

Definitely prefer the black Mark

Yep, black’s much better

Thanks Simon and Gunzi.
I agree the black seems more in keeping, yet I did find quite a few who seemed to like the alternative.
Personally, I tend to prefer originality, although certainly without the old tacky finish!

Following a new MOT, I Sorned the Coupe today for winter storage - She's all tucked up under a cover in the garage, with a trickle charger extension lead at the ready.
Having spent so much getting my chassis rust sorted, I want to keep her off our local muddy lanes till the Spring.

E5 fuel is hard to come by locally, so I have a couple of cans put aside, rather than left in the fuel tank, in case I want to move her out of the garage at all.

I was looking back at this thread archaeology Mark and found you started it in 2012 , on my birthday

More than 9 years later are we to be treated to a "Volume II"?

And did you get the bonnet cable sorted?

Marius's headlight refurbs are the dog's, I got them too to replace the piggy-back HID's. I keep thinking I must be dazzling other drivers when I see the illumination bouncing back off road signs....

Marius has just completed a fullon bi-xenon conversion to the lights on his car (my old runabout).
I think it was fearsomely labour-intensive though!

Anyone got any more details on these bi-xenon conversions?

I'll message you Dave

Incredible to think I have owned the Coupe almost 10 years - that's a fair bit of cake for you too Simon!

Pity I cannot see my original posted pics though as I would like to be able to look back over my journey...

Yes it's the main negative I can think of that we've lost so much photo legacy, both in owner history and howto's

Hi Simon

I take it back - I actually can see a fair number of the pics showing from my original postings, which is weird as I was sure they had all disappeared.
How's your group restoration going?

Mark