Welding question.

I have a question for those who've done a lot of welding on coupes.
Under the drivers seat is a box section that the front of the seat runners bolt to. Inside that box section is a very large wiring loom. Does that go only to the module under the seat or to something else As well, and how easy is it to remove? I have a large rust hole in the floor right under that loom which I'll be repairing this weekend, so I'm going to either have to move it or go to great lengths to protect it.
Any advice welcome.

No it's continues to the rear and feeds the fuel tank pump, level switch, O/S rear lights and number plate lights.

Pretty sure it continues back to rear speaker on that side and stuff in the boot too.

That's what I feared. Joe how have you gone about doing welding in that area. It seems like a common rust spot.

Yes a common area to corrode, seats out, rear cards so you can lift the carpet and sound proofing, drill out the spot welds that hold the seat rail tower, cut the rot out, fabricate, weld/repair, dress, treat and rebuild, if only that was as easy as writing it

Ah ha. I hadn't thought about drilling the spot welds. Thanks Joe. At least I can prepare myself a bit better now. Good thing I've got next week off work .

Hope it goes smoothly, and don't forget the fuel lines are near that area

Drilling out the spot welds, brilliant idea.
This year I was only replacing a small section of the passenger floor under that tunnel, and the loom passes through rather than along it so I could simply disconnect and pull it out of the way.
Although welding upside down was absolutely awful and something I had not really done since being an aircraft apprentice many many moons ago, good luck Alex can’t wait to see the results

special drills for spot welds are available or you can sharpen a normal drill to a lower angle if you have the equipment to do so
have fun

That's some great advice, thanks all.
She's in for MOT in the morning, I know it'll fail on the corrosion in that area but I'd rather get a full list and tackle it all in one go (although the amount of new parts it's had I can't see it failing on much else).
I'll keep a good photo diary and post them up on the FB page as I go.

Good luck and list is better than guessing isn't it

Mine failed on some holes in the floor in March this year, once I started fixing them I found more that the tester hadn't spotted. I did weld them too of course!

Wow. Joe you weren't kidding, ( not that I thought you were) an entire days work to get the interior, carpet, and that seat tower out.
Thanks H_R for suggesting the spot weld drill bit. I would have never managed without it.
Now to start cutting this rot out.

.... and in this heat as well so top marks for effort

Another quick question while you're online Joe. The floor pans are covered in a thick anti vibration type material that I've had to chisel off. Do you replace that with something similar ( if so what?) Or do you not bother.

You could use something like peacemat to replace the old bitumen sound deadening once you have finished all the corrosion rectification. Comes in either rolls or sheets and quite easy to fit.

Peacemat as above, or Bitflex which is my preferred product which can be purchased from below.

Carinsulation.co.uk

....... their fleabay page.