What oil for my coupé?

In view of recent feedback we've decided to open this sticky thread where people can discuss oil types and preferences for modded engines, after all the information for standard engines is included in the Basic FAQ in abundance.

There is also further information in a series of articles written by "Oilman" in the Basic FAQ for reference.

However, rather than locking threads asking about oils, in future they can be posted here, or we'llmove/merge them into here for you.

Similarly, and perhaps more importantly, if you spot what appears to be a bargain deal on oil please post it in here, thanks!

I use Silkolene PRO S 10W-50 Ester Synthetic Oil For High Performance Engines.

No oil consumption.
Perfect pressure.
Survived track days at Spa and regular use without any weirdness
Just replace frequently - 5.000 miles depending on your driving style.

www.bobistheoilguy.com will tell you a lot more about oil

Note that Fiat recommends Selenia 20k (10w-40). Selenia Racing (10w-60) would be the successor of that, although 'racing' in oils often means there are less / no detergents in the oil (meaning your engine can get a bit filthy) but I suppose Fiat has just used this as a marketing word.

I've also used Shell Helix Ultra on my previous Coupe without issues.

Castrol GTX 10w40 5L for £13 on ebay with free delivery,thats a bargain £20 elsewhere.
May not be a modders type of oil but thought id share.

Im sticking with the above when i do my oil change next,ive used it in my bravo and was pleased with it in that.

If I wouldn't track my car every now and again I'd probably use 0w-40 Helix Ultra or even 0w-30.

I use Gulf competition fully synthetic and stick to 10W-40. A good price from Oilman and I like to stick to the viscosity FIAT designed the engine for.

do you know Fiat have released a new oil designed for our cars? its Seleina K 5w40 but fully synthetic at £9 per litre.

I use extra virgin olive oil.

Or Fuchs Pro S 10w50.

So can i confirm that a decent quality 10w40 oil is fine for the coupe 16vt engine circa 100k?

yes, that's what Fiat recommended.

just wondering if 'Gulf Tech Plus' is a known brand and if so is it any good? Ive just seen a 4 litre tub in Home Bargains for £9.99 10w40 semi..Thats a bargain

A what oil thread? Run for cover

lol it wasnt as such,i was quering it
but hey its cool its been merged. Ive not heard of it thats all,just seen it whilst i was out for the 'dailys' lol
Just googled it and it seems its on Opie Oils for £18 on offer.

Do you honestly think that if this stuff was decent enough for perfomance cars like Coupés we'd all still be paying 3 times that amount? I do wonder if you're trolling sometimes, such is the standard/style of questions - but i'll give you the benefit of the doubt.......

you all pay 3 times the amount 'cos thats your choice. 1 person says something is great,then you all jump on the band wagon.

Ideally you want a fully synthetic oil Mickey, and these tend to cost more. Bare in mind you need 5L for the Coupe, so you'll need to buy 2 of them = £20. I pay around £30 for 5L of Comma fully synth.

There is also a very detailed thread in the FAQ by oilman on the different qualities of oil. It's worth a read.

LMFAO - maybe its more to do with the seized engines/bottom end issues that occur but hey, carry on and do it please and prove everyone else wrong

Thanks Gunzi. fully synthetic? tbh im just going stick with Castrol then and get another litre.
Yeah ive read that thread,its a bit of a read. Im using Comma Semi in the focus,seems to do the job.

As i said,was just out and about and saw it so thought id ask about it.

i think thats down to general maintenance. People not looking after their cars. The car was recomended with 10w40 but you all say 10w50/60 etc etc but hey, everyone has their own opinions on oil and ignore what fiat recommend. i mean alot of us are in the uk,not a sunscorching place

So have members had a seized bottom end due to cheap oil then?

I'm not aware of any scientific study benje, but why take the risk?

well there you go,no one knows so you cant slag it off then? I mean it might be £10 in a shop but its still £18 on Opie Oils.

Carlube,would you class that as a cheapo oil? Seen as its advertised all over the tv? and used by pro's. Ive used that stuff in my brav at 1 point for ages,Until i seen Castrol on offer so i gave it an oil change. Obviously not a turbo'd car but does the same job.

I don't want to argue with you, it's your car and each to their own - just a few years of reading threads about the effects/or lack of, of poor quality components (including oil) makes me exercise caution. I'm very happy for you you've found some dead cheap oil you're happy with

lol tbh im actaully going stick with Castrol,its well known and did make a difference to the engine noise in the brav,Was a lot quieter and ran smoother.
Wasnt meant to be an argument,was just sayin i found it cheap and if anyone has used it because i havnt heard of it

Castrol recommends these for my/our cars
clicky

Anyone called Mike on here,he said he'd use Gulf oil
clicky

On the basis of the existing thread im am going to try this in my standard coupe Total Quartz Racing 10W-50 Synthetic.

Will post a light review when the oil is changed.

If you have a standard Coupe why not use a 0w/5w40. There should be no need to go to a 50 grade.

Despite being standard engine wise the car has and will see the track hence using the above grade. The oil tends to get quite hot on track

So, Marco's suggesting either these:
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectionbodycopy.do?categoryId=9024084&contentId=7073092
or this:
http://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/4l-gulf-tec-plus-10w-40-semi-synthetic-609035
and I'd think Opie Oil's Fuchs Titan Pro in whichever grade you prefer would suit. Although their site recommends oil+filter packs including either Mobil Super 2000 X1 10w-40 Semi Synthetic, or Millers Oils XSS 10w-40 Semi Synthetic. You pays your money and makes your choice, in the end.

been reading up on that Mobil Super 2000 X1,can get 5l tub for £20 on ebay free delivery. Been developed especially for turbocharged petrol/diesel engines. Come monday im going to order some i think,makes sense as i would need another 1L if i were to get castrol.

Castrol Magnatec keeps the oil monacules cling to the engine all day round making starting easier.
Castrol GTX helps fight agaisnt the build up of sludge for a cleaner freer flowing engine.

I bought GTX for my brav,did a world of good. I was originally going to get it for my coop too BUT after reading up on the Mobil Super,i think ill give that a try.

Don't believe the magnetic bullshit. Even if it is like that when new, it'll be gone after a couple of runs.

And be wary about eBay. Much they sell on there is past its shelf life.

yeah was just reading up.

well when it comes and its out of date itll be going back lol
*havnt ALL products have to have a sell by date?

I wouldn't skimp on essential servicing items, just not worth the aggro. Use a trusted source.

Decided am going for that Mobil Super 2000 x1,20 on eBay an 22 from halfords. So I can get it there and then and give it fresh oil and fit my new NRV before I tow it to get fixed.

Thank God you have finally made up your mind. We can all rest easy now.

Amen to that.

lolol that many different choice of oils out there though ha

I don't know kayjey, my brother's Bravo ran exclusively on Castrol magnetec from 20k when he bought it til the cam belt skipped 120k later. When I stripped the motor I was hard pushed to find any significant wear (things like rings and shells were as expected at the mileage, but journals and bores were perfect).

But by the same token, we've run all our cars on Halford's own brand. SEAT Leon Tdi with 270k miles on the clock, still not using oil between services and clean as a whistle emissions, likewise the Octavia with 135K miles on the clock.....the only thing I stipulate is that the oil matches the manufacturer's recommended specs, i.e if they say "fully synth 5w40" then that's what gets put in.

I too am rather sceptical about magnetic oil, although I suspect it does contain good detergents.

Would you like me to make you up a decision logic tree?

Stan I know it's not conclusive and you're more than likely right about the detergent aspect over the "magnetic" properties, but I was just impressed at the condition. This was the 1400 12v motor that isn't renowned for its longevity, plus it got loads of stick because of the large wheels and heavy stereo system it had.

I just feel that if I opened the same engine up after using a different oil I'd have seen very different results.

Oh, sorry, that's the problem with text-based comms, I wasn't disagreeing with you about the state of the engine, it's more the way they advertise some modern products.

For example, if you buy Practical Classics on a regular basis you'll see them do a monthly "engine autopsy" where they take old engines and strip to nut and bolt status. It is interesting to see how little wear exists on some of these, probably due to improved modern oils in general.

In fact Car Mechanics magazine ran an article a couple of episodes ago about the dark art of oil blending; when you saw the sheer number of different additives available it was staggering!

By the way, this month's "Engine Autopsy" is the venerable 16v Lampredi twin-cam engine.

My bad, I didn't mean it to come across like that I was just trying to demonstrate that there may be some value to the magnetic claims. However for my money I tend to just buy the best perceived value oil at the time as I accept the differences are not night and day.

I'll check practical classics, I think I'd enjoy the read.

Castrol doesn't use the 'magnetic' thing anymore on their product information. Because it isn't magnetic. If I remember well from 10 years ago, they even got sued for it. What is it then? An additive of ester oil, that is actually known to cling to metallic surfaces. Nothing to do with magnetism.

I personally wouldn't use magnatec because while the 5W-30A1 is fully synthetic it isn't suitable for the Coupe's turbo temperatures. Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 and 15W-40 are both part-synthetic, which means I would also not use them in the Coupe. Does sludge ring a bell?

Would you trust an oil that even leaks from the can?

went out and bought Mobil Super 2000 x1. The oil that came out was black. 10w40 semi,as recommended by fiat.
Ive read good reviews on it,its desined for turbocharged cars and to give the engine a good cleaning. Heard a few on here have used in the past. So i'll see how i get on.

It's the 8v one unfortunately. Lots of differences.

... and the problem is? It just means the oil has been doing what it should do. I'd be very very worried if the oil would be clear. It'd mean all the soot is still inside the engine.

PS - just because oil is 'designed for turbocharged cars' it doesn't mean it's designed for 17 year old turbocharged cars.

i aint got a clue how long its been in there,even after 2 top ups by me.

I understand that,its like any oil then really. Aslong as theyre all met by the legal requirements,then tbf any oil is as good as well known oil?

Anyhow,its done now

So i should be able to take them to the cleaners then for false advertisement?

...and now you know why I'm waiting for my reading glasses to turn up from, yes, Specsavers!

kayjey, I should've been clearer, I'm not endorsing it for coupé use hence my comments relating to the Fiat Bravo. You seem to dismiss it outright, I was merely suggesting I have had good results a number of years ago with the product.

And I'm aware that the oil isn't magnetic; containing neither metal or high voltage it would be difficult.

On an electron level it would be possible to reach something similar through ionisation. Saying that, oil doesn't have the right characteristics to do so, but it is possible by adding certain polymers. This would also result in oil that mixes with water. Which you probably don't want. All this is why they started using esters. Oh and there's oils that contain "Micro Carbon Graphite" now. Which is a solid lubricant - like microscopic roller bearings. Want to try?

What IS quite important though in oil is the extra specification besides all the official on-the-bottle ACEA etc... Because actually - they change. If you want to learn more...

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&...136&bih=877

... which is why shelf life is so very important.

I'm not sure if I'm misreading your posts but you seem to be jumping down my throat on this, why? Have I offended you?

While your link contains some good info, I don't understand the need. You described magnatec as "magnetic bullshit" and for balance I stated I've had good results with it (admittedly not on a coupé). I also thought the quotation marks on magnetic in my comment to Stan were subtle enough to show I knew it wasn't magnetic.

I really hope I've misunderstood your intent.

Easiest and simplest way to ensure you have the right oil - buy the stuff that it came out of the box with and is built into the tolerances of a standard engine. If you mod your car - take advice from the person who has supplied the new parts as to what additional characteristics the engine may now need.

Otherwise we will always live in a world of speculation as unless you've got anything that proves the point it's all just shite, opinion and educated guess work - and in some cases old wives tales.....

On a further note maybe we should have a list of oil in use when the knock of death appears - at least then we may get a pattern or something to substantiate all the hot air.

Definitely misunderstood szkom. Rather I'm jumping down someone else throat who I hope got the message given by 2 people now.

kayjey, good to hear. I'm glad I haven't offended you.

If there was a 'Like' button,id like it as i agree with that.

I see on eBay theres a couple of variants when it come to the oil filter on 16vt coupe.

Is this correct or are they the same filter what ever year the engine is?

Yep

Just buy a GOOD one, with a non return valve. Ensuring your engine gets good oil pressure as soon as possible after starting.

Well I would not want to be taking the advice of just any person that supplies parts.

Pretty much all the oil that gets talked about here is from the top end of the spectrum, the highest quality full synthetics. Most of them are probably an overkill for us, but we like our cars so why not. The real issue in my mind is picking the right oil grade or HTHS for the engine. And you can't just go overkill on this, you need to get it right, or right enough in a practical sense.

There is a school of thought that says as thin as possible but as thick as necessary. I.e. not just thicker is better. 10psi per 1000rpm is tossed around; I don't know how accurate that is.

Oil needs to be thick enough to maintain hydrodynamic lubrication in the bearings but ideally no more than that. Oil that is too thick will only resist flow and create higher pressure. Higher pressure does not give "more lubrication", it in fact, does nothing of use. If the pressure gets high enough to open the bypass valve, then the volume of oil that is bypassing is not going through the engine or the oil cooler. This is the main reason you don’t "gun" a cold engine. The oil is more than viscous enough for the job, but there is not enough oil flow.

A full scale oil temp and pressure gauge is required to get it right. You want to keep the oil pressure in the correct operation range, whatever that maybe it's below the bypass point. Viscosity also changes with temperature so you need to maintain oil temp or you have another variable to deal with.

Keep in mind higher rpm gives higher oil pressure and actually requires a lower viscosity oil to do the job all things equal.

Lastly what your 3 bar oil pressure gauge says at idle is of the least importance in all of this. It is nothing more than a fancy oil pressure warning lamp. At idle there is little to no load on the bearings and very little required of the oil. The oil pump is still going to pump the same volume of oil through the engine. The oil pressure is just backpressure at the start of your oil gallery.

Fiat specifies 1.1 bar at idle at 100 degrees for turbo models and less for non turbo. That is probably a service limit, not an ideal figure.

So in conclusion, unless you know better I would stick with what grade the manufacturer says to use. In this case a 40 grade. If your oil is thinning too far under full load and temperature you may wish to increase the viscosity. Likewise, if pressures are too high, you may want to decrease the viscosity.

Without too much knowledge of the pros and cons, this expresses my thoughts and attitude entirely.

Most important part of all is: the oil needs to be stable and functional at the temps you are using. The Coupe has a very hot Turbo so you need oil that stays good at high temps. Apart from that, the pressure should be a measure of the flow, because it's the flow that lubricates and takes care of cooling. So you need a good balance between pressure (to keep things flowing as good as possible for a given viscosity) and flow speed (to cool).

As for the numbers, one thing everybody seems to forget is the fact that at room temp, a 0W-60 is thicker than a 0W-40. And in fact, at 100° a 0W-50 has the same viscosity than a 0W-40. It's at higher temps there that the difference is made. The key here is you need oil that is as thin as possible (or more accurate: the same viscosity as around 100°) when cold and stays thick (or more accurate: the same viscosity as around 100°) at very high temps. I'd love to find a MINUS 15W-50 but there seems to be no such thing.

Very right a 10w60 may have a viscosity at room temp of 176cst and a 10w40 maybe 90cst. Thats a big difference when cold.



Just one thing. Oil grades are determined by their viscosity at 100 degrees C so by definition a 50 grade is thicker than a 40 at 100 degrees C.

High temperature high share "viscosity" (HTHS) is more important than kinermatic viscosity under high load conditions. HTHS is the viscosity the bearings will "see" regardless of the oil grade. High performace oils will have high HTHS figures even with low(ish) kinematic viscosity. i.e. So a good 30 grade may infact have all the viscosity you need.

The oil maybe under high stress in a hot turbo engine as you put it so maybe that's why Fiat may have suggested a 10w40, not a 10w30. How would we know if it's not good enough? A guy from Castrol told me you should go up a grade if the oil temp is 15 degrees higher than normal. But what's "normal", 100? A good oil will still work fine at 115.

I am baffled that oil companies don't put a big viscosity graph on the side of their oil cans.
I'd imagine that the viscosity of a decent oil drops off much less quickly as it creeps up over 100c.

This is borne out by my experiences of what the paranoia gauge reads when the car's idling in hot traffic with a cheap oil vs a decent one.

Having said that, I've used cheap (£16 ish), regularly changed semi-synthetic 10W40 oil in all my daily runners and clocked up decent mileages before selling on (186,000, 225,000, 191,000) all without any bottom end failure.

I ev wondered this for my 16v turbo. Fitting a fmic and slightly changing the ducting to the oil cooler my oil heats up quicker which I m happy with and sits about 6,7,8*c more then it did maybe enough for a 50grade in summer but a quality 40 I would say is what I want

Sorry, I rewrote that part and deleted some stuff it seems. Meant to say most oils of recent fabrication actually have the same viscosity at higher temps 150°. As long as you go with the very latest API/SAE performance ratings (SM or SN) the oil shouldn't actually burn, so the grade has nothing to do with temp resistance or quality. In fact I find the viscosity at startup much more important. I'd never use a 10w-60 in a short distance daily driver as the engine really has virtually no flow of oil when cold. The oil is very slow.

I still have Selenia Racing in the sump and I cant wait to change it for that reason. It's only done 3000 miles though. I need to get more use out of it yet.

Mobil recommends M1 0w40 for the Coupe. Shell - Helix Ultra 5w40, Castrol - Edge 5w40. One thing I have lernt is that we should avoid any low Saps oils and anything designed for late model cars with advanced emissions systems. These will be SN and carry the latest OEM approvals. If you were ever to choose a 30 grade oil or lighter, stick to the old API SL rating and not SM/SN as these are formulated very diferently to to meet emission targets. Performance 30 grades will probably be SL anway. 40 grade an over is not a problem, they are exempt.

I have looked at a lot of data and tests on these oils. just bought myself a jug of Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 which is actually the thinnest 40 grade out of the lot as per specs but the thickest I've seen from real test data. It's a little old school, packed with more Zinc than most, inc Mobil 1. The base oil is not PAO or Ester like the more expensive brands. Shell has a unique base, mayde a different way to others which is ment to be very good.

I'm sure their marketing department did it's job reassuring me it was the right choice too. I'm never going to admit I could take a totally unbiased view.

I also bought a jug of Mobil Super 2000 5w30 for my partner's Toyota. This is a very light 30 grade, (almost a 20) API SN, Ilsac GF-5 designed for fuel economy. The Toyota is rated for the older formualtion SJ Ilsac GF-2 but the the Ilsac oils are ment to be backwards compatable. So in theory it should be OK even though this oil will be formulated very differently with low zinc to extend catalytic life.

Just done an oil change today how much should the 2ltr 16vt take?

5 litres after priming if you've done an oil filter change as well.

5.2L for oil and filter on the 16VT by the manual.

Hav I put too much oil in mine? Didn't put a filter on when i did it,I've put 4.5l in? Is that ok? I know it's 4.8 with filter. The dipstick is full but can't tell if it's over

Thanks mike

Run the engine to warm the oil, turn off and leave for 5-10mins, then measure on the dipstick after the oil has had the time to drain back into the sump. If done on a relatively level surface, this will give you an accurate reading to gauge from. If it's above the MAX mark, then yes, you've overfilled it.

Its oil change time for me, i'm after the above, does anyone know of any great deals going on at the moment ?

Best I can find is £56.69 through Opie...

Also, Selenia Racing 10w 60...anyone know if its semi or fully synthetic ? googled, but no definitive answer....

cheers

Selenia Racing is Full Synthetic but that means virtually nothing. It's not on the same pags as Millers. It has a low viscosity index for what it is (10w60), only 150 which rates more like a typical semi synthetic oil. All good when you're up to temperature but for a daily driver in a cold climate, not great.

Wow, well yesterday I was looking on Opie for 5l of Millers Nanodrive, price yesterday was just under £60 delivered...couldn't order as I forgot my wallet.

Today, due to not accepting discounts on millers, and now charging delivery, its £75.....gutted

OK, so further to this, the Nanodrive Millers is still the same, silly high price.

the 'non Nano millers' looks a good bet, but is still fairly pricey

I'm wanting a great quality, 10w50 fully syn oil, can others tell me what they use & recommend ?...

I dont want to turn this into a 'what oil' thread, so just the above viscosity and personal experiences please !

I don't know any 10w50 to recommend but if I was to tip a 50 grade in my engine I'd go Mobil 1 5w50. Solid old performer, been around for years. Porsche A40 approved and a reasonable price. Millers also make a 5w50 of similar calibre.

Millers do a XFS 5w-50...anyone use this ?

is 5w OK in coupes ??

5w/x is definatly ok to use. 0w is generally better again.

Keep in mind a 10w50 is actually thicker than a 10w40 during a cold start by quite a lot. Although its not really going to matter, technically it's not ideal.

I'd have thought that 5w would have been borderline too thin....and 0w definitely too thin... particularly at high temps...

are there many people using 5/0w in their coupes ?

The number before the W is only the cold pumping viscosity (measured well below 0). All oil is too thick when cold and the lower the number is before the W, the more resistance the oil has to thickening when cold.

This property has no bearing on the viscosity at normal operating temp, that's the second number after the W i.e. "50" in this case. A 0w50 has the same viscosity as a 15w50 at normal operating temp.

So, for example, a Millers 5w50 would pretty much cover all bases, and be the best of both worlds...

Over a 10w50? In general yes.

Deleted at OP's request

Okay. so which one i should pour in to my sump ?
castrol edge 5w-40
Shell helix 5w-40
Or fuchs titan 5w-40.
And what is the reason of some of you putting selenia racing oil. ? Is it better in some way ? More oil peessure ? Thanks

The oil pressure itself is irrelevant, provided there is some . Selenia oil is used by many owners because it is recommended by Fiat in the Coupe handbook. I personally use Millers 10-60, but in cold weather I make sure the engine is warm before utilising the horses too much.

What engine?

Selenia Racing was never specified for any 16V's. Not sure about 20V's. I would never use it in a cold climate as it's very thick. Any of the above 5w40 will be fine but I'd go for the Shell.

That's interesting stuff Scuderia.

I've dug out the spec sheet for Selenia 20k - the oil that was specified for the Coupe.
http://www.selenia.net/commonfile/en/pdf/1640_stec_ENG.pdf
Viscosity @100C is 14.9
Viscosity Index is 150

By comparison Mobil 1 0w40 is:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.aspx
Viscosity @ 100C 13.5
Viscosity Index is 185


Now for the cheap semi I bung in the Alfa (195,000 miles)...
Comma Lite
Viscosity @ 100C is 13.7
Viscosity index is 150


Millers CFS 10W50
Viscosity@100C is 18.8
Viscosity index 169.

So it seems Selenia 20k is higher viscosity at 100C than your average 10W40 Semi (nowhere near a 10W50), but has a fairly average viscosity index.

Something like Mobil1 Fully Synthetic with a high VI will show a lower-than -Selenia oil pressure at an average running temp, but would theoretically get closer to the viscosity of the 10W50 at higher temps.

That's the idea. A graph or plot would explain it a lot easier!

The Millers 10w50 is not a good example however as it is an ester based oil. Without even looking up the specs it's going to have a much higher HTHS viscosity than your typical SAE 50 grade oil. This will make it behave like a higher viscosity oil and that will (should) show in the oil pressure readings also.

Just did a full change to Nanodrive 10w50, no change is oil pressure readings for me !

Having said that, my idle oil pressure is the same whether its really hot outside, or very cold, always around 1.6 / 1.7....good old coupes!

I do think I have a slight oil leak though, saw evidence of this when doing the oil change.

So this no doubt can effect the pressure reading

I'll get Paul to look into it in Jan when its MOT time !

My engine is 20vt . just seen at halfords an mobil 1 3000 5w-40. Anyone used ? My coop has dane 160k miles.

Whats the best engine oil to be using this time of year ? Im going ot.be giving the coop a good service this weekend and would like to know the best oil for the car, Im also unsure of what plugs to use, bkur6et or 7'? many thanks, Jim

If you search both of these mate you will find plenty of info..
I think that questions about oil/plugs tend to generate a bad vibe

Lol fair enough, I wont start the other thread about how sh*t fiat coupes are then

No that would be silly, and you probably wouldn't be allowed to play here again.

Good luck in your search, there's plenty of info in the FAQ.

As for the spark plugs it depends on your spec, generally upto 280bhp-ish would be a "6" grade, above this is "7" grade and onto "8" for circa 400bhp.

Any half-decent synthetic oil will do provided you check the levels regularly. I use Millers 10-60, but you have to make sure the engine is warmed up properly before the hefty right boot is applied.

The choice of plugs is a minefield on here; IMO any reputable will do the job provided they are looked after. I actually use NGK Iridiums (7 I think), but there are big power people that use whatever are lying around and change them regularly!

The What Oil thread is a cracker on here - don't be offended if you get short shrift on this topic

Enjoy your Coupe

Tim

Excellent, 6's will do perfectly.

That would be silly indeed!! There is advice aplenty in here bud, you will find all you need. And they are not even remotely s##t, they've just had some pretty rough owners from time to time. Enjoy your coop fella!

I hate gettin short shifted
Cheers for that tim42!

I've been out of the Coupe scene for a while, and recently started preparing my 20VT to bring out of storage. Since new, it's been run on Mobil 1 15W/50 so I have never had to concern myself about which oil to use. The car has now done 77k on this stuff, but yesterday I found out it's no longer available.

What should I use now? Popping along to Halfords was so convenient, so an alternative that's available from there would be great.

The car is mildly modded with hybrid turbo, side mount intercooler etc, running around 280bhp if I remember correctly.

Is the Silkolene PRO R 15W-50 a suitable alternative? What else?

Thanks!

I dont know what is available where you live but that will be fine. I would personally use a 10w or 5w50 over a 15w 50 if you are driving it everyday in a cold climate.

Sound advice there Scuderia Once I'd read the first two excellent posts here: 16 important oil questions answered , and started to actually understand what the 15W bit and 50 bit stand for , I also came to the conclusion that 10W50 is what I'll try next.

Why ever did I not read that thread earlier !??

is this a good oil??
Castrol Magnatec 10W40 A3 before

Chris

Yes

thanks

I'm not saying it's suitable for a coupé, just that its a decent oil.....

Oh please just use the bloody oil thread!

castrol were successfully sued in the states for the magnatec claims.
#justsaying

lol i used the oil thread lol, but i got confused so after reading a few times i couldnt work out 10w 40 or 5w 40, then read somewhere else abt 10w 50.
what happened to the simple yes or no??? lol

you can use
10w40
10w50
15w50
10w60

it really doesnt matter

The book recomends 10w40
Why do people use 10w50/60?
Those oils hold better pressure when very hot. People usually notice lower oil pressure when using 10w40... these results are not lower than the manufacturers recomendation so there really is nothing to worry about. People usually go for a higher grade to sufice their paranoia... its better on the mind to see a higher oil pressure in some peoples mind.

The best thing is to ensure you do regular changes especially if you are doing alot of hard driving / track days.

I use Mobile 1 10w60 with no issues



ps while were on the subject ... some people use thinner oils than 10w40 in the winter. This is not a requirement however some people state its better on the engine as its thinner from cold and doesnt take very long to lube everything up.

Yes.

I mean no, I mean......

I've used up almost all my supply of Mobil 1 15W/50 and will probably be moving to 10W/50. Came to this conclusion after reading the oil thread

And can this be added to the oil thread please.

A reminder... the goal of oil is not pressure, it's LUBRICATION. If pressure is all you want, try some 80-140 gear oil in your engine - and see if it actually makes the end of your road.

Thanks for clearing that one up Klaas

Ok...slightly board at work...thinking of the next oil change...

...came across this

anyone use Comma, or the above oil?

Iv heard the oils are actually pretty good....very well priced too.

...blue touch paper lit !

Yep, I've used it. And I don't rate it for a daily driver. I found the consumption to be very high. Max to min on the dipstick in 250 miles. I also found that the car warmed up quicker. But once warm the oil pressure was very constant, even in traffic. Unfortunately it tended to be constant lower pressure.

Now the above is my observation based on one change after I rebuilt the head so may not be fair

There is lots of good oil out there with official approvals and or a proven track record. This oil has nothing and only offers very basic specifications. I would use something else.

You don't want a cheap 5w50 loaded with polymer thickners for motorsport.

You certainly know your stuff Scuderia....what's the best 5w50 money can buy ?? (well circa £50 ! )

5w50 is not all that popular anymore as its a bit of a compromise and not all that suitable for applications today. I know in the UK you have a lot of options we have never had like Millers, Motul etc. I'm sure they are top quality but I can't comment on them because I dont really know them well. Mobil 1 5w50 is a quality 5w50 at a reasonable price. Yes it will have polymers too and does not have a large proportion of PAO base stock but the base stock is actually proving to be at least as good if not better than the older PAO formula. It's performance is also officially recognised by many manufacturers e.g Porsche. It is worth a note that it is the only 5w50 that is officially approved by Porsche for their vehicles.

Redline make a 5w50 which should be among the best however it is really a lot thicker than a typical 5w50, it is even thicker than a typical 10w60! You need to drop to Redline 5w40 to have a similar viscosity as a typical 5w50. Redline is thicker as the ester base stock does not thin as much when subjected to the high shear conditions when it's forced through the bearings. This essentially makes it just like a much thicker oil. Motul 300v 10w40 is a little thinner the RL 5w40 but also in the performace window of a xW50 grade. Amsoil 10w40 is another.

I am using Miller's Nanodrive, cost is £69.99 for 6 litres. Supposed to give a performance increase too.

Will prob end up going for Millers CFS 10w50 or similar when the time comes as i'm lightly modded

Just saying this for my VIS

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId_165581


30% off oils at Halfrauds this weekend !

Or try Millers Nanodrive, I did and it's good http://www.fastcar.co.uk/2012/08/28/millers-nanodrive-test/

That's actually quite

I have been using Millers Nanodrive for the last 2 years. No problems with it.

I have used Comma Lite 10W40 semi for years in various cars including the Coupe. It used to be the cheapest semi synthetic oil and I've tended to change it every 10,000 miles.
All the cars racked up 200k ish mileages without a problem.
The current Alfa TS is on 198k.
I use Mobil 1 in the Coupe these days - not for any particular reason except it was cheap at Costco.

i filled up mine with 10w40 mobil 2000, decent pressure when hot, cheap at halfords.

Which grade, 0w40?

Me too - on offer at halfords this weekend

That's the one.

All interesting stuff, and the conclusion I draw from this is for a standard car, provided it is of correct grade & type, is from a reputable manufacturer it makes little difference.

Far more important are regular changes, kept at the correct level and not ragging it from cold.

here here lol. if its on offer, get it, i got 10 litres so good for the summer holiday change in the rain.

This thread is a mess!! How about a list of each model and the oil reccomended!!
I.e
Coupe 20vt 100k+ 10w50 fully synth!???

Have a look in the FAQ section for all you need to know.

Oh I was looking forward to another 'what oil ' thread….

Have those using Millers Nanodrive noticed any performance improvement? I fancy trying it but would like to know if it will make a difference before paying the price it is!

Nope. But it IS very good oil.

Having run Silkolene Pro S (same viscosity) I noticed a slight drop in oil pressure. None of the magic smoothness some people seem to be reporting (mostly in other cars). But quite some top-tuned Coupe's are reportedly running much better.

Thanks Kayjey - mine is currently running standard but I will probably put a Gtec chip in it soon - want to get the best performance I can for the hillclimbing I'm now doing, but am limited in mods by the regulations and my wallet! Lucky to live close enough to Millers oils to use their onsite shop though so think I will go and get some Nanodrive next week.

Halfords have any oil (their make) £10 for 4 litres.
They do a 5W/40 fully synthetic and a 10W/40 semi synthetic (plus a couple of 5W/30 fully synthetic).

Any good for my 20V Turbo plus?

The 5W40 fully synthetic for £10 can't be bad.

Buy shit - end up in shit. Go for an actual brand.

Another one into the mix:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Petronas-SYNTIUM-1000-Synthetic-Bottle/dp/B00EWH2SAC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_5

http://www.petmos.com.my/en/About-PETMOS/PETRONAS-and-Motorsports.aspx

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petronas

^ Used to use the Syntium 1000 in my old Alfa 147, good stuff by all accounts.

Thinking about using this for the next oil change. Good idea or not?

Very good oil and gives great oil pressure, I also used the millers nano tech 10/50.

No need to run a 60 weight, the engine is designed around a 40 weight and that is what you should use.

One for the oil thread maybe?

Read couple of thread on this matter. Just wanted to get firsthand feed-back if anyone had used it.

hi chaps just need a bit of help.
im going to give my coupe a oil change .
but dont no what oil to get so can you good chaps tell me what you are using .
ie. brand ,10w50,10w40 fully or part and where to get it from plus oil filters and spark plugs .
cheers chaps

jay

Mobil 1 10w 50 fully synthetic.

guys please search the forum before posting questions like this. Ive merged your thread.

What about this for a 79k 98' 20vt -
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-ac...p;0&cc5_248

Doony, I don't think that oil is a good idea what with being the wrong grade 10w40 semi syn. Personally I use Millars cfs http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161174064755?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 but give them a bell and ask for the filter for the coupe. Or just get there normal recommendation,if your engine is stock.

5w40 will be fine doony.
Mine runs it no problem and its a bit better in the cold weather.

I ended up getting Petronas Syntium 1000 10/40 fully synth, which was £15 for 4lts from Europarts.
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-ac...p;0&cc5_245

Not necessarily for a Coupe, but a good deal at the moment at Halfords on basic oils.

£12 for 4 litres of semi or fully synth. I got 8 litres for £22 with my trade card. Will use it to change the oil on my van.

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids

1999 20VT6. I have Mobil 1 10W60 fully synthetic atm. What should I replace it with next time? (daily drive, no track days)

Same, or a 0W40 for the winter (it's thinner when cold so helps protect the engine on cold starts)

I'm rather afraid to ask.. But selenia multi air 5w40? Dare I put it into my coupe20vt tomorrow? I've read the faq's several times..

I would go for a 10w60 myself

Track day cars apart, I'm probably stating the obvious here but one of the best things you can do is regular oil & filter change, the oil & filter twice yearly. Daily drivers using their chosen oil probably will be more beneficial in doing this, rather than worrying too much about what oil.

What Jimboy said, regular regular oil changes.

For the record, Mobile 1 10W50 fully synthetic for my last oil change and will stick with that on the Scottie having had no history with it to show what it was using previously.

HI guys I bought an expensive oil Motul 300v 5 w 40 can any one tell me if it is good for my stock engine please

I run 5w40 in my 20vt and it seems fine for me. No excessive consumption and good warm up times etc.

5w-50 full synth for me atm over winter, i think 0w-40 is wrong grade, 0w is way too thin if im honest.

then ill normally put in 10w-60 mobil 1. gets around 3-4 oil changes a year, it easily does 300-400 miles a week. 10w-60 also will hold the best oil pressure too.

The is a common misunderstanding. 0w40 is a 40 grade just like 10w40. They have to meet the same minimum KV and HTHS viscosity. 10w is easy to meet and can be done with mineral oil while 0w is far more demanding. Respectable blenders will likely use higher quality base oils and additives to achieve 0w performance.

0w is perfect for winter, it gets round the engine quicker when it's cold. Not much benefit in the summer over a 10 cold weight in the summer.

No harm using 0w except that it is understandably more expensive. Even in summer, starting form cold with 0w will have a much higher viscosity than any "xw-40" oil at running temps. Lower winter values will always mean faster cold start lubrication.

I used Millers 10w 60 last time I did an oil change on a different Coupe, I gained some oil pressure when hot too,

My current Coupe has good oil presure, When boiling hot it's also good, But I reckon it could be even better with a dose of 10/60, It's an arguable case i know, Just my opinion,.

I have been weighing up if the Millers is worth the £45 when there are some cheaper branded oils out there


Can I have anyones experience on the following over the Millers?

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-79218-gulf-racing-10w-60-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-79218-gulf-racing-10w-60-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx

Cheers!

Castrol edge. I have 10/60 in mine, can't fault it.

Miller -> http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/tds-automotive.asp?prodsegmentID=924&sector=Motorsport
Gulf -- > http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/gulf-oil/gulf-competition-technical-data-sheet.pdf

__________________________________ Miller | Gulf
SAE Viscosity ______________________ 10w60 | 10w60
Specific Gravity (at 15°C) _____________ 0.870 | 0.866
Kinematic Viscosity (at 100°C, cSt) ______ 24.40 | 24.10
Kinematic Viscosity (at 40°C, cSt) _______ 170.8 | 168.5
Viscosity Index ______________________ 175.0 | 175.0
Pour Point (°C) ______________________ < -25 | - 32
Flash Point (°C) _____________________ > 200 | > 200
Cold Crank Viscosity (cP) ______________ 7,000 | 6450 (25°C)
TBN (mg KOH/gm) ___________________ 10.11 | 9.2

I bought this from local oil man who mixes to the specification required, a good deal for £96

That's what I also have used for the past 10 years of ownership.

It's impossible to meet all the specifications listed.

Hi

I have just done an oil change and used Agip 10w40 fully synthetic. Supasses most eqivalent grades with standards.

If your just doing normal every day driving and your Couoe runs at normal temp Castrol GTX 10w40 5L will suffice Asda and Tesco have the best prices.

If you drive your coupe hard and track it it will undoubtedly run hot and should have the race oils that keep viscosity when the engine runs hot .

For hard driving :

http://www.motoworlduk.co.uk/acatalog/Racing%2010w-60%20(Car)%20PDS.pdf

For regular driving :

http://www.motoworlduk.co.uk/acatalog/eni%20i-Sint%2010w-40%20PDS.pdf

Hi guys,

What's the best oil to use on the 20V turbo as mine has previously been run on a couple of different ones?

Everyone use genuine fiat oil filter?

Best plugs to use too including part number?

Cheers!

OMG no......

A lot of previous posts on this very subject

Here:

http://www.fiatcoupeclub.org/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=879667#Post879667

There is absolutely loads of info on this site How To's etc all ready and waiting

Totally agree. Just for the record, no such thing as best oil or best plugs for the Coop. There are suitable ones though. I can't do link, but loads of information if you use the search function.

As above this has been covered loads of times and I personnally try a different one at each oil change just to compare but thats just me.

Thanks guys

What I use.

any filter. Usually a fram one from my local factors (long one)
Oil. Depends if your paranoid about oil pressure. Fiat says 10w40 but if you wanna cheat and have 3 bar most of the time stick in some 10w60.
Plugs. I used ngk7bruts or something like that part number (cant quite remember off the top of my head).

Millers cfs 10w50 gets my vote. Also mobil 1, currently have 10w60 in at the moment.

There really are as many opinions as there are oil types lol.

Is it true 10w60 affects fuel consumption

Because it thicker I think.

Thicker oil puts a greater load on moving parts. It's not excessive pressure you want it's flow you need. Don't be scared into putting in a higher viscosity oil just because your tick over ain't at 3bar. Mr Fiat say that 1 bar at idle is to spec.

I tried the Mobil 10w60 for the first time at my last oil change and I don't like how much longer it takes for pressure gauge to rise to max from a cold start, compared to my previous 15w50.

Looking at the spec. sheets it was surprising just how much thicker the 10w60 was than the 15w50.

I'll be going back to the Gulf 15w50 or may try a 10w50 next.

I'm going try 10w 40 fully synthetic but not sure what brand yet. Will see what's available at Halfords or local motor factors

I use 10w40 Castrol GTX purchased from Asda 20 pounds I think
I will be changing oil a filter every 8000 or every August.

Also give it a coolant flush before you clean expansion tank

the handbook also recommends using distilled water again cheap at Asda
Used eurocarparts for the recommended antifreeze

I used the Carlube triple R 5/40 and found it to be very good. I then moved to the same brand 10/60, which has proved very stable for longer journeys/traffic/high load motoring.

Bottom line, just pick something that meets or exceeds the OE requirement. Trust your gauges (very useful for trend analysis), and see how it looks when you change it. You won't go far wrong.

Is it nessacary with a fully senthetic oil if it's its a 2.0 16V non turbo. I heard that its fine with a semi if there is no turbo.

I know for a fact that its much more important to change the oil more often, than buying expensive fully synthetic!

Mobil 1 10w/60 changed every year for 15years, now doing circa 2K miles per annum. Original turbo, car just turned 110K miles.

I just hade my Fiat coupe 1999 20V Turbo go through a full service including changing the oil pipes (they had rusted and were leaking).

The mechanics put Mobil 1™ FS 0W-40 in it. According to mobil1 website, that is the recommended product [1]. Any thoughts on that? I trust the mechanic, they are very good, but I cant see why not going with what is in the manual (10w-40). Of course the manual is in french so I dont blaim them for that...

[1] https://www.mobil1.co.uk/which-synt...tetype=mobil1&equipment_id=FawEcW1L1

I live in southern Sweden and the car wont be driven during winter and snow.

That would be too 'thin' for me especially as I use 10w/60, from 10w to 0w is a bit of a jump down, doubt it will do any harm if you keep a check on the level, these are 'old' engines and your oil consumption may increase and there is a case for thinner oils not allowing uniform lubrication/low oil pressure. I think regular oil changes are more important factor. I do 1000-1500miles a year now and change annually.

I interpret your response as that will be okay for now, but that it is better with a thicker oil. I will leave it until changing next year. I will probably drive around the same amount you do before changing it.

Thanks!

Hi all.
I’m of the belief that you should use the lowest weight oil that will give the oil performance recommended and currently use a 5w-40. Has anyone used a 30 weight, say a synthetic 5w-30 such as used in a modern hatch.
Cheers from NZ

I personally stick with the manufacturers recommendation. Might go with a slightly thicker oil when hot if the car is for trackday use only.

The 30 is not the weight of the oil, that's the optimum working temperature which is why for the higher mileage engines I prefer 10/60 as forced induction temps rocket way higher then the 10/40 as suggested in the owners manual.

So definitevely Joe, what do you use for the track, and what do you use for daily drivers?

10/60 Millers Nanodrive for the track car, my Vincy LE I use 10/50CFS and the 2.4 n/a is on 10/40.... I so like Millers oils

I have nanodrive in my track car too but just put 10/40 semi in this sprinty I am doing a light recommission on. Hmmm

Hello Coupe Pilots

Im a brand new Coupe owner (1998 20V Turbo STOCK) with 0% Experience and im getting mad choosing the Oils.(Never thought that do a full car service is going to be so difficult)

Motor Oil: Car manual says 10W-40 but other owners put 10W-50 or 60 WHY ? Its not enough protection with a 10W-40 ?

Does anybody tested the Motul 300V ? the oil its based on an other technology and performs really well (at least in this channel test (Minute 15:00) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwIVkS9B9lI

Gearbox Oil: Owners manual says : Tutela ZC 75 Synth (75W API GL4) but when i look for the Tutela ZC 75 Synth specifications its written that is a 75W-80 API GL5) WHAT SHOULD I BUY API GL 4 or 5 ? another question its why i should put an Automatic transmission fluid in a Manual gearbox ? Any Alternatives ?

Steering Oil: Owners Manual: Tutela GI/A is a DEXRON 2 oil but i don't find any more DEXRON 2 Oils only dexron 2 D ! What does this D mean ? Its compatible with my 1998 20VT coupe gearbox ? any safe alternatives which will not "eat" my gearbox seals ?



Thank you in advance !

Just to answer the engine oil question. I have used Motul 300V Competition for many years.
It is expensive but I have never had the engine apart and the compression on all cylinders is great.
The engine remains clean internally (Noticed when changing cam cover gasket).
I change the oil once a year ish.

Frazer

Hello Frazer

Thank you so much ! Im Liqui Liqui and Fidel Castro oil "Fan" but for sure im going to try Motul 300V (Test results are awesome). Which grade do you use ? 10W-40 ?

Thanks in advance !

Motul 300V Competition is actually 15W-50