Project 400bhp - 16v Turbo Discussion Thread

Discussion thread on my coupe

Is it ready yet?

Nearly. Just the subframe overhaul to do, off for the external wastegate to be done on the 6th April, then mapping, then it might be at Auto Italia

Are you getting the subframe seam welded and then painted (not yellow, please)

These drop links are gen fiat, they have a narrower daimeter, I'll get them fitted Beggars anyway. I said to Neil I'd take it down Thursday/friday. Tipo is in the garage with the rear arms off, when were you planning to come back and do the rear frame?? It could be removed on the driveway but I'm short of axle stands if mine is still in the garage.

What oil is in the engine at the moment? Can you order some gearbox oil - http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-806-mobilube...l-gear-oil.aspx .

You need a breather tank too, if you get one with some type of threaded connector you can step up the breather hose size. Get a 2ltr one if you can. Also dont you need some gear cable bushes or new cables full stop?? Oh and some decent brake fluid.

Rich, looking at coming back up in 2 weeks time (21st / 22nd) I can bring axle stands if your short as i can't see the rear subframe taking 2 days to do, unlike the fing gearbox.

Oil in the engine is some general cheap non-syth stuff, maybe better than the tesco's value oil you used I'll order the oil and get 2l's of the stuff too.

Breather tank, i'll get one off ebay, then bring all the silicon hoses up that i have. Gear cables, that can wait, the bush needs changing as there is no metal part in the middle, but that doesn't stop it from changing gears, just another item to add to the snag list

Nobby, not doing anything like that to the rear subframe, just fitting some metal bushes, swapping the trailing arms bearings out, fit the larger tarox discs on the rear, fit the Novitec rear anti roll bar (from Taz's group buy years ago!) and put it back together again. Front subframe has already been welded

Cool. If your looking for brake fluid - I bought some ATE super blue from Monkfish performance the other day, only £11.50 per litre (gold is £12.95). Dunno if they do mail order though

dropped off, forgot the drive shafts will take them down. Neil was unimpressed with the manifold, I'd say lance will say something similar, the supersprint looked a lot nicer. He was however amazed at the size of the turbo and doesnt hold much hope for the drive shafts.

Theres a good body shop next door, shall I ask them to give a rought quote for full respray - windows in/out??

Oh need to do something about your fuel line material

http://www.nfauto.co.uk/

Results are in, but i'm not saying what they are till i get hold of the power graph, but that should be some time tonight, details on the RR is here

some pics from a couple weeks back
rear end off

replace gearbox ofter cleaning it and painting

fuel system works

sub frame, new bearings, bushes novitec ARB

excellent work mate. wish i ahd a 16vt now lookingat that engine bay.

Awesome project. Must be getting dangerously close to £10,000 by now?

I've already exceeded that! I did a break down on costs of just buying parts for the engine / headwork / cams etc.. and that was around £8000!

Will it be ready for PPC in the Park Begbie?

No chance

Any more news Begbie?

No, no more news really, just electrical gremlins at the moment which is causing the mapping to get delayed, but Phil's on the case

Heard from Phil earlier today, it seems there is a random electrical problem somewhere. The problem is when the car is idling, there will be a random pop out the exhaust, which it shouldn't do. Phil has managed to track this down to something happening on the MoTeC, it would change it CRiP (Crank Reference Index Position) whilst running, meaning the MoTeC is changing when it sees TDC, thus firing at a different time, hence the pop out the exhaust. The ECU is also showing that there is a sync error when running, but if a sync error occurs, the engine would stop, or not start at all, so Phil is getting the MoTeC ECU sent back to MoTeC to make sure there isn't a problem there. If it comes back with no problem, a custom wiring loom will be made up and the Fiat one binned.

Hindsight is a wonderful thing, and if i knew this was going to happen, i would have either gone for a custom loom from the start, or even a different ECU.

would it not be worth making a custom loom while the MoTec is being sent off for inspection?

of cousre i understand there will be a cost involed....

Nope, because a custom loom will be a couple hundred pounds for a start, and whilst the MoTeC is away, it will probably be flashed with the latest version of the firmware, which might fix the fault, it might not, but i'd rather save money first

true!
lets just hope its a small software issue thats all!!

shame we will not get to see it at Auto italia...

I don't suppose the crank sensor or trigger wheel are the problem. Perhaps the sensor is.moving at slow revs due to vibration or maybe one of the teeth on the flywheel is recessed slightly - so the sensror thinks theres an extra gap.

The teeth on the trigger pulley is only 4 teeth, each tooth for TDC on each cylinder

have you managed to sort it?

would like to know what the issue is!

These things take time. No, i don't know if it has been resolved yet, but will update this when i actually know

And in Begbie's case, lots of time!

come on man I'm really looking forward to your results, go go 16v power

You're not the only one How long does MoTeC need to test an ECU?

You weren't far behind.

Have you tried www.farnell.com for your electrics bits?

Hope you get it sorted soon Begbie

Not used that one, but i'll have a look, other places i'm looking at is:

www.thetoolboxshop.com
www.m-cal.co.uk

I know TurboJ mentioned a company he used a while back too?

I've been quite impressed with Farnell in the past £20 min order tho

You may be better off making a loom from scratch if there is no fault in the Motec. It's actually quite fun . IF you sell the Motec and decide to change ECU's PM me as I have got something you might really be interested in

Can't see the pics at work but gutted for you Beggars, you seemed to be getting so close. Hope you get some good news soon, stick with it!

Hope you get it sorted soon begbie Are you gonna opt for a manifold from ojz now?

Chris

Yeah, but it will have to wait until the engine is rebuilt, as OJZ will want the engine in the car, so they know how much space they can work with. It should be more than before as i will be moving the radiator fan to front now, to give some more clearance

Begbie, sorry to hear this mate, i hope you get it sorted.

so are you going to have to change the pistons then?

so gutted for you....

Really sad to read that. I know exactly how you feel as I have had a very similar issue with my first engine.

Gutted for you mate.

Da** "#¤"#¤ i am really sorry to hear/see this

I'm gutted for you Alexis. I know just how you feel. I'm was driving around my Coupe after the latest rebuild under 3000 rpm and no boost. I was keeping a close eye on the fueling and tweeking the map slightly to richen it up on very light load. In thoery it can run slightly lean here but I wasn't willing to risk anything.

Even before your post I was getting extremely nervous about getting it mapped after the running in period. I'd waited for a year to get the engine back from Lightspeed, then I had problems with the clutch breaking then the electrical problems with the new angle of the phase sensor due to the cam timing. I was so happy to get the car back and on the road I was even contemplating not tuning it and just enjoying driving it like it was.

Now I've read your post I'm scared to death to tune the engine. One of the things Lightspeed mentioned after the last failure was possibly too much back pressure which is why I switched to the .86 turbo housing.

I don't know if a EGT gauge would help detect a problem? Do they react quick enough and is there time for a tuner to stop the run should the temp go too high?

I was considering a custom manifold before the tune, or even puchasing the one from Turkey which looked like a nice design. The problem with the one from Turkey was the tubing diameters. They were for a 2.0 not a 2.5 engine and they wouldn't create a custom one for me. Now it looks like the design is critical.

The figures for your manifold are a real eye opener. We assume things are better because they are aftermarket but without some scientific or statistical data to back them up we're taking a huge gamble.

If Lightspeed design me a manifold can Guy flow test it without a head? I can't drive for at least 5 weeks due to shoulder surgery, after then I'll be finishing off the running in peroid so it'll be almost the end of the driving season again. I'll then have time over Winter to get the exhaust sorted. Lightspeed even suggested a EGT on each branch which I thought at the time was OTT but I guess it would show up problems with injectors or intake discrepencies. (The Autronic can trim timing and fueling on individual cylinders).

John

Hi john,

I don't come on this forum much,
If i could sort you out with a manifold which has been fully back purged and has a pyramid collector would you be interested, i will show you the quality of the work with a picture of my manifold on my 8v Lancia Delta.

Nino

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s25/ASF72/IMG_0216.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s25/ASF72/IMG_0178.jpg

Even Guy Croft wanted to know where this came from and wanted to list the link on his website which is by permission only.

having just read the thread, i now understand your resent post, a kick in the teeth is a understatment. Not sure what to tell you to be fair. chin up doesn't quite cover it here

Thinking about it over night I have some questions...

Guy's report says that the damage is a combination of many things, over fueling, under fueling, timing and poor manifold design.

Do we have flow figures for the standard cast manifold? JohnS has run some serious power (all-be-it on a 5 cylinder version) without issues. I'd have thought you are always going to see some flow loss directing the gases into a single opening for all 4 cylinders compared to the raw figures for the head alone. Do we know that the aftermarket manifold is worse than the standard cast manifold is this respect? Looking at the design of the cast manifold I'd expect the flow figures from each tube to be more unbalanced than the aftermarket manifold you were using. What power was the engine producing when it let go?

If one injector is flowing 3% less is this a significant difference? It doesn't sound like much to me. I'd hate to think that an engine could be destroyed if an injector is out by such a tiny amount.

When mapping the engine it sounded like there was lots of problems with the timing. Was the timing of the engine ever checked against the timing of the ECU? This is critical. It can be checked at idle for a rough test but then you need to compare at other speeds such as 2k and 3k.

When I was trying to get my engine up and running with the new cam timing I was getting sync errors. This was causing the ignition to be all over that place. No spark on #1 and a double spark on #5. This caused pops through the exhaust and the engine would hardly run. The ECU didn't know what the angle of the engine was. The signal from the rpm sensor was perfect but the phase sensor figures in the ECU were out due to the slightly different exhaust cam angle. Tweeking the values representing the angle the ECU expected the phase sensor to trigger fixed the problem.

On my old engine I had similar wear marks on the piston skirts. I can't say for certain if they were the same as yours but Lightspeed said that they were caused by piston slop. The bore and cylinders were missmatched.

John

I should add that a disagree with the statement "no one is to blame". No, someone is to blame. Either the engine was faulty or incorrectly designed or the mapping wasn't performed correctly or with enough safety checks.

The problem is proving one or the other or a combination and getting your money back is extremely dfficult and maybe not in anyones best interests.

When I had problems with my Tipo engine rebuild I took the garage to court. It cost as much as the rebuild, nearly 7k, to go through the process. Luckily I won and got awarded costs but it did get to the point where I thought about dropping the case.

John

Just as an FYI, you can wire up an EGT gauge to back off your boost or ignition as a fail-safe technique. Whilst I am not the biggest fan of my EGT gauge I do have it wired up to do that, so when it hits 960 or something like that it is triggered.
It will catch it in time as long as the sensor is sensitive enough (there are different classes of sensor with different reaction times)

In terms of the manifold, my 5 pot one is also from the same source but when we received it we weren't particularly happy with it underwent quite a lot of rework.

Careful John were not talking about the same type of people who screw'd you over in the tipo days, and there's no way there would have been a build issue it wasnt thrown together in a back street garage. There were however some weak spots in the set up, and combined, lead to a catastrophic outcome, of the likes Guy Croft had not seen before. I would point to 2 major unknowns; what was the motec really doing, and the back pressure of the set up? The manifold and electronics were questioned in advance, and aportioning blame serves nothing in this case and its not analogous to either of your episodes of equally bad luck.

Alexis has a plan for the future, and correct me if I'm wrong beggars

1. Use an ECU capable of greater control mechanisms like JS mentions for EGT, Fuel Pressure, AFR, engine temp, boost pressure the whole thing.
2. Make a proper loom from scratch avoiding the problem of aged cabling in the OE loom.
3. Manifold for the job with diameters to meet the significant CFM of the ex ports.
4. Different first start strategy.

Rich

Nope, sounds about spot on Rich

5. Get engine rebuilt

Just noticed your update Begbie, looking promising so far then!
Glad you have carried on with this!!

So are you going to get guy croft to make you a manifold or have you got some one lined up for that?

Sorry to read about your woes Alexis - I hope that your wallet has not taken too much of a bashing over this!

maybe it would be good to take 42mm tubys for the manifold and try to have the more straight design for the tubys.

It's starting to sound, rather worryingly, like your car might be running soon. Between this and barnacle looking for a 20VT, I'm convinced the end is nigh.

Well the 4 horse men of the apocalypse did just walk though my office asking for directions to Neil's house

hm, away for just 3 months and a lot of things to catch up and although I got the bad news via text, it's much worse to see them in the photos)!

sorry to hear all that mess Alexis, looks like you're really close again.
I do hope the custom built manifold will be tested on the flowbench on a stock cylhead to make sure it wont end up in tears again!
Out of curiosity, you using 42 or 45intdia tubing?

good luck!

V.

How's things getting along begbie? Any news on your motor?

Any news Begbie?

No real news as such. Engine has been built for the past month or so, just trying to get some time with Phil now, as i will have to install the engine back in the coupe, Phil to make the loom up, map it in N/A form, get a manifold made up, bolt the turbo on and re-map it for the turbo / boost.

Not too much then!! Lol good luck mate!!

Come on Beggers...

There is this thing called time, which only some people have, especially when they are fully booked with other work, so can't drop things at a moment's notice It's coming along, so don't worry, i'll do an update after the new year

Begbie, change lashes's name as punishment!!

If you need a hand with anything Beggars then let me know - I may have some time to spare

Is this still moving on Begbie, I've just noticed a worrying number of significant parts for sale in that section of the forum?

Still going, engine was put back in on Friday. The collection of parts that are up for sale are items i've just had hoarded away with the car, so being up there over the weekend gave me a chance to pick them up and be able to sell them off to pay off some debts

so it looks like your car will be with us soon then!
hows the work on the manifold going?

Manifold isn't made yet. Car is booked for 1st Feb with OJZ engineering

nice one, as ive said fingers crossed for you mate!

Good to see it coming along. How long do you think the manifold will take to make?

Not sure, approx a week or so to do

Phew, good, I know you've looked at the wall and wondered if it was worth scaling before. Glad it's still on track!

hmm... Photos of nice welding please, I love nice welds.....

That is some Project Begbie, fantastic work and dedication been shown here. I dread to think what this has all cost you (apart form the sweat and tears). Keep up the great work.

Looking good mate!

Can't wait to see this in action at TOTB!!

Great thread, what perserverence, you must have a hair-shirt or no shirt on your back by now. Great commitment

It is one week later and I demand pics of a shiny new manifold.

You'll have to wait. I'm not back up in Lincoln for a few weeks yet, so no photo's till then. I might try and get Phil to send me one though

Seconded

Photo's now posted

looks lovely begbie!!

i hope things go ok at Phill's!!

I've just messed in my pants.....

want a tissue Nobby??

i got a spare! lol

Looks nice. Getting close now

Nice manifold. I like the fact its not squished up against the rocker cover like most others are due to them also being designed to fit the Integrale.

BTW I know the nuts in the pictures are just temporary but in case you didn't know (and for everyone really); the name for the correct type of lock-nuts are M10 x 1.5 K-nuts. Spread the word and let there be an end to the tyranny of manifold nuts undoing themselves once and for all!

This is probably down to the turbo being moved to a more central position and that i have a slim line fan that is on the front of the radiator giving more room

Manifold looks great, Car is coming along really well

Hello, been following your build progress a little.

I have come all the way from the integrale world over on delphi, im interested to know what size ID the scara manifold was and was the restriction that was mentioned in Guys report, a combination of undersized tube and tight bends, or was there more like a physical body preventing ample flow ? What size ID in comparison is the new manifold ?

thanks

Edited that for you Tricky

Are you going to ceramic coat coat it?

Hi Tricky, I am on the delphi forum as well, just don't post as much on there, prefer to read the handbag sessions TBH i don't think it would have been the undersized diameters (they were 34mm ID), more to do with the bends not being great. The new manifold is 35mm ID as this is what Lance suggested.

Jimbo, you bitch

TurboJ, at the moment no, but may do so in the future. Let's get the car going first, then decide from there.

I know what you mean about the cat fights, delphi is very under moderated and the lancia sport forum is the complete opposite. Maybe it's just integrale owners

Thanks for the info anyway, I have bought stuff from scara before and sent it back because the quality looked rubbish.

Any news Begbie?

Nope, moved recently so not a lot that could be done. Need to speak to Phil and see if i can get up there in May

Is GC going to flow bench this new manifold of yours?

How long do you think until she's back on the road, Beggers? any set time? Good to see the project still going

my money is on BP stopping that oil spill first

Nope, it's all bolted up on the car now.



Quite possibly

it should be on the road soon if we can get a few more weekend on the custom faded yellow beast!!

let me know when you want us down there mate, happy to come and help again!

and if we get Nick there he can make us some coffee's!! lol

Begbie...

when do you want me/us lot to pop over again for another day of work on the car??

got a clear diary for now mate!!

just give me the nod and im there!

I can help too if you want

hmm... whos feeling a social/work meet at Begbies house....

works coming along well there alexis!

no0t long now mate!

after the trigger wheel is on your not to far away!!

you painted the throttle linkage - amateur!!!

I'll clean it up before putting it on

When's the ETA on this beast Beggers? it's becoming pushed back more than GT5!

Ideally i would like to have turned the engine over before Christmas

Which one?

This one

Currently, all that needs to be done to get the engine started is :

• Get some HT Leads
• Fit wiring loom
• Fit inlet manifold
• Connect throttle cable
• Sort out boost hoses
• Fit header tank
• Fill with coolant
• Mount oil cooler
• Fill with oil for starting
• Fill power steering tank
• Mount ECU

thats one big FULL days work you homo.

pull your finger out!!

and if you want, i will come down and do it for you.

just an evenings work! get on with it

rich, im starting to think Begbie does not want to finish the car...

do you get that feeling mate?

Weekends is the only time i really get to work on the car

a real man would work on it week nights

Indeed, but i don't have the luxury of having a double garage with a pit, lights and heating

Am i dreaming or is Alexis really at the last hurdle now?

go white boy go.........

Check all engine mounts and gearbox bolts are tight. Check manifold bolts are tight, check all hose unions.

Cam cover looks a little sorry but stuff like that can wait.

When will it be collected?

Will do Rich.

Cam cover might be sorted before it goes, as i need to take it pour oil over the cams. I'll speak to Phil and see when he can take it as he said he was busy with the TVR again.

begbie you

when this goes for mapping, do you still need picking up??

my drunken offer still stands!

also, congrats, she is nearly done!!!

yeh i wanna come down 2

Looking good Alexis

saw the video of the oil pressure!!

sounds good mate!!

whens it going for mapping you ?

cranck it longer mine didnt show anything 4 about 3 minutes dont know why...try and put it on you tube again..when i was crancking i was scared no oil pressure 4 3 minutes ...then it came now runs like a charm.....are you going to buy the accusump so before you crank it you will have oil pressure..

I have cranked it for longer, did about 4 x 30 second bursts, but i do think my dashboard isn't working, as there was no petrol warning light on, in fact, no warning lights came on when i turned the ignition on

you need to start checking earth point and power to the dash mate!!

not sure what can be causing the problem..

blown fuse to the dash cluster?

It will be a very surreal situation when that car pulls out...

I know, been looking at the workshop manual yesterday to see if i could make head or toe of it, to see where the power would be coming from

do the windows work?

if its not sorted by xmass i think a trip to Guildford is in order what do you think marco?

Yer im up for that.

just reading the workshop manual to try and work out what the problem is..

but this is a job for no mere mortal... we need a super power..

a fine caliber of man..

one who drives a 16v fiat coupe..

Sir Barnacle....

rumor’s have it... he reads wire diagrams in his sleep...

rumour has it he doesnt sleep...

LOL

i also heard... he has a turbo... and once he turned up to a coupe meet and was the only one with a coupe there!!


Alexis..

just looked onto the workshop guide, page 15..

looks like the oil presure gauge is the first one in line, then it feeds the rest of the guages, following it back it goes to pin 4 (N) then im really not sure what the hell happens form there..

it says 261 A then N.D then move a bit forward to 122 with what looks like stop sign simbol..

yer...

lost..

i dont even think im on the right path let alone tryint to work out what the hell Fiat decided to do when designeded this.

why didnt they colour code things.

idiots.

Begbie.

i feel you pain.

I know Marco, i was looking at those diagrams yesterday trying to make sense of them. Wasn't happening too well. Will be easier to take the colour coded dash off and the clocks, then do some tracing / using multimeter's to see where it should go to

i would start at the fuse mate, looks like a 15amp (or its in position 15)

i dont know..

it would be easy if i had the car to play around with.

if you want, i dont mind coming to see you one night and trace the fault!

does the engien loom conenct to the dash loom?

(weird question but im not sure how its set up on the 16vt!)

I have a hunch on what it is. Basically in the passenger well, there is a 2 pin connector of some sort, which i know does power to the fuel pump. Looking through the workshop manual (chapter 4, connector blocks, page 27, connector 128) i think this is the connector that is causing an issue, as i seem to think that it was part of the ECU loom

so should be an easy fix?!

please check the fuse before hand, i have no clue how or why it would of gone pop but just for peice of mind..

i will have a look at that chapter 4, connector blocks, page 27, connector 128..

im having to follow them with a pen to keep my eye on the line..

im printing off no end of bloody pages looking at these!
its a massive mess.

if i had a spare 12months i would re-do these..
but i havent so im not lol

mate, if you need a hand with any thing give me a call or pm me!
just none of that stuff...

where are the 2 bolts that join the plenum to the head?

Cheers Marco

Rich, they wont fit due to the inlet gasket

oh! wont it wobble around then fall off eventually?

wow, so close now mate!!

jsut a case of a dayswork and your all set for mapping!

couse there will be the double/tripple checks on every thing!

Pretty much. As per text, car should be going up to Phil's in a couple of weeks, couple of minor odds and sods to sort out and a list of mods has been sent to Neil Willies to get a quote as well. Hopefully haven't forgotten anything

whats the quote going tobe then mate??

can we make some guess's?


£1200.00 my guess! lol

also mate, what do you plan to do for the brakes?

Oh exciting stuff Begbie

Twitchy bum time.... lol

Well, here is the list i sent to NW

Engine

Forged CP Pistons
Forged Pauter Con Rods
Spesso Group A headgasket
Garrett GT3076 Turbo
Tial 38mm External Wastegate
One off exhaust manifold OJZ Engineering
3" Exhaust system from turbo back
Pro-Alloy Front Mounted Intercooler and silicon pipe work
Pro-Alloy water radiator
Spal 12" Slim line fan
780cc Siemens High Impedance Injectors
Head work by Guy Croft (flow increase of approx 15%)
rocker cover, inlet manifold, throttle body, engine and gearbox all painted
Colombo and Bariani Road Medium Camshafts
Kent Cams adjustable vernier pullies
Triple valve springs
K&N Cone filter
4" ducting connecting cone filter to turbo
Bigger oil cooler with braided hoses
Braided Fuel Lines
External fuel swirl pot mounted in the boot
2nd external fuel pump (Bosch 044) mounted in the boot
Lightened flywheel
Helix 6 paddle clutch
Braided slave cylinder hose
Silicon vacuum and water hoses
DTA S60 Pro ECU
Custom wiring loom
Bosch ignition coil
Lancia Dedra oil filled engine mounts
Vibra-technics rear gearbox mount
Braided oil line to turbo
Custom oil return to sump with aero fitting
Custom made 36-1 tooth trigger wheel mounted on the crank
Oil catch tank and mini cone filter
OMP Strut brace
Custom made HT leads
HKS dump valve
Boost control valve controlled via the ECU
Various blanking plugs

Exterior

Compomotive Mo 17" Alloys in white (7" Width)
205/40/17 tyres
Zender bodykit (front bumper, side skirts and rear apron)

Suspension

FK Coilovers
Lancia Dedra front anti roll bar
Eibach rear anti roll bar
Solid rear bushes (on rear subframe)
Welded front subframe
Poly bushed wishbones

Interior
OMP 10 Point Rollcage
Dashboard cut to fit rollcage
Carreli leather seats and mounting plates (similar to Reacro Speed seats)
Defi BF guages x 3 (exhaust temp, oil pressure and boost)
Defi controller
No rear seats or rear trim
Front door cards cut to allow fitment of rollcage
4 point harnesses
Battery located and mounted in the spare wheel well
OMP race steering wheel and mounting boss
Momo cobra gear knob

Brakes

K-Sport 8pot calipers (front)
330mm x 32mm front brake disc
Stand rear calipers with 300mm Red Dot brake discs
Carbotech XP8 brake pads
Braided brake lines front and rear

now THAT's a mods list!
i know it was "project 400 bhp" but surely you'll end up close to 500 if not a little more?
Are you gonna set a max boost with the guy who's mapping or just gonna let him do his stuff?

nick

2 words....

Cha ching!!!!!


Bice one beggers!!!

Now get it mapped!!
(fingers frossed for you!)

Dunno, we will see what it does on the mapping / dyno, but i think i'll set the boost at 1.6bar sustained, maybe less. Will have to see what Phil has to say when he starts mapping it.

Cheers Marco

That's a fair list Alexis. I bet you can't wait get this on the road?

Really looking forward to seeing you'r car up and running Alexis. Well done mate.

you and me both!
cant bloody wait!

Cheers guys. I can't wait either, just getting quotes at the moment to get the car transported back up to Lincoln, cheapest so far is £155 to get it taken 176 miles

thats not bad...

you sorted out the other bits and bobs that needed doing?

Quote is now down to £150, shiply.com is a great website

Marco, not yet. Tow plate is on the way to me and waiting for Joe to call me back regarding the brake fluid reservoir, then that's it. ABS problem won't stop the car being mapped.

That isn't a bad price.

This is looking cracking, Alexis

I'm really looking forward to seeing this out on a track soon

may be he will get it there for the 13th March!!

No chance, credit cards are taking of a bit of abusing at the moment

dont worry, just rent your self out like normal to pay for it!

Begbie...

i just took a moment out of my life to re-read the hole project.

So happy you have managed to get it to this state..

glad your showing 2bar + on just the starter motor!

bet your over the moon!

p.s i bet Becky is happy its all nearly coming to an end!!

Great news Alexis.

Those DEFI gauges are the nuts!

Glad you sorted the oil problem Begg, I just had to come over here and say well done !
Will you do the first start up before it goes to lincoln ?

Cheers Tricky. Cheers for your help over on Evoforum too It will be started up in Lincoln, as Phil doesn't want me to do it incase there is any issues.

Looking very good Begbie.

Still haven't seen your coupe in the flesh though

My goodness, you have put in a tremendous amount of work, money, blood and sweat and finally its paying off.

Hats off to you dude.

It would give your coupe a run for it's money on the bodywork stakes

Glad you decided to finally read the thread

Cheeky get!

I *might* have a solution to my ever decreasing lacquer conundrum. Moving house and potentially have a spare empty garage at my mums (when I move all my stuff out) - so could potentially do lots of prep work on my car.

Also know someone who might be able to spray it at trade price.

Ofcourse this could all go out the window as parenthood and mortgages are the coupe owners worst enemy.

Does this mean you aren't a dab hand with your spray gun yet?

Congrats on the sprog

No, not practised with a compressor yet, been far too cold to even think about attempting it, but i will give it a go. Being all one shade of yellow is better than grey, yellow, white / yellow and a patch of white

Begbie, you have far too much money and time

and a luverrrly coop..

Catch '22
If you have the time the moneys not there, and if you have the money the time is spent at work.

Looking excellent Alexis!

News in from Alexis,

Car started and ran fine, need a small adjustment to ignition coil wiring, a bypass for the fiat ignition switch power (something that can be sorted later). Phil added another inlet pressure take off for monitoring.

On starting an oil leak appeared, this was the seal on the exhast side balancer. Guy Croft came and fixed this for Alexis as he's a good guy and 2 minutes from Phil's workshop. Text just in says its all being put back together now (cam belt etc) then some low end rpm running will be done.

Rich

cracking news!

glad there is no bigger issues!

i bet alexis is buzzing!

All fixed running well and sounding nice.

Marco, alexis say he's not quite buzzing yet.

tell him to man up and stop being a

Oohh exciting stuff. Guy Croft to the rescue!

I assume it was because the balancer shaft has been removed/blank off and that was leaking?

I hope the engine is still all shiney

Blimey, its taken me a while to get through this thread, but its been worth it, very interesting.
Looks bloody brilliant!

Good luck with the finishing touches.

No balancer shaft is still there, just the seal decided not to do its job.

Since then Alexis' dremmel action on the front gearbox mount had broken into the sump/crankcase region and had to be sealed up - 6 spd conversion forget about it. Guy came down again to see the issue, I have to admit kinda funny hearing over speaker phone Guy say to Alexis - "why did you do that?"

Latest is the Tial gate isn't holding the signal pressure, so its been taken apart and sealed to maintain a constant pressure. long day for Beggars, the more bits you change the more that can go wrong - especially if you check everything.

Cheers for giving the updates Rich, I couldn't be bothered to type it all out on the phone whilst I was there. I will do a full post tomorrow with pictures and video's

thoguht you got those bloody pipes swaged?

Nope, but it's blowing off the throttle body anyway.

as a little comparrison.... Nigels is making 275 at the flywheel at 5000 revs with same boost!
with smaller turbo, it then goes on to nearly 400 bhp (flywheel) if i remember correctly?? So i'm estimating yours will comfortably do 425 at just 1 bar..... Very impressive!
if this beast doesn't make 500 bhp i'll eat my own...... Hat!

nick

i only hope your hat is like proccys hat!!

Nick, the revs are approx as my rev counter isn't working currently and Phil is generally watching the laptop than anything else. I would love to see you eating a hat though

Oh, and I forgot to mention that the exhaust manifold gasket was blowing too

Good to see some more progress Begbie

Nice brakes! Where did you order them from?

Any chance you could do me a favour before you fit them? If/when my discs need renewing I might look into getting some bigger ones (305 to 330mm). The D2 and k-sport calipers are almost identical. Would you be able to measure your alloy bells so I can check if they are the same as mine, hopefully I can just buy new discs and space out the caliper a little with a custom bracket and bobs your uncle.

I ordered the brake from these guys since the MLR were raving about their brake pads, noticed they were a dealer, so dropped them an email and did me a good price on them

I'll have a look at the dimensions for you over the weekend, my micrometer battery has died so will only be able to give you approx dimensions

My micrometer battery just died too - you'll need an LR44/A76 battery if you have halfords one (I got mine off ebay for dirt cheap)

I'm in no rush, just please measure them before you stick them on the car.

Cheers
Chris

that was soooo close to being spot on..

is Lance at OJZ going to sort it or the other place?
it just needs a small amendment to it for it to fit!!
its like the tube needs to be bent a little bit over towards the enigne and shortened a little to allow the correct clearance!!!

are you going to heat wrap that manifold??

Nortech are sorting it, they made the modifications, so they will correct it. Lance is just too booked up to do anything.

Basically the wastegate is going to be pointed down slightly more, chop the bend by about 10mm by the flange for the wastegate and bring it in closer to the manifold. Heatwrap will go on the downpipe and external wastegate tube, not the manifold.

at least ths time i will have enough notice to come with you to help you fit it!!

(well, thats the plan!! you just didnt no that yet )

The CarboTech XP8 is a very good pad. Don't forget to upgrade the rear ones as well.

dont touch the rear ones.

Wow, it's a week away from completion!!!

lets hope the rad can cop with the extra radiated heat. You might find it will be ok on the dyno but on the road in traffic after a blast it might overheat so keep an eye on you coolant temp. I assume the DTA dosen't use the idle control vale and your using scatter spark to idle the engine.

Go luck with the mappping this week that is the scary part.

The DTA can use an ICV but decided against using one. No scatter spark either, the car can idle without the need for an ICV on the 16v's.

I'll try and do something with the wastegate pipe, but for the time being, get it mapped and get it home, then I can spend time at home tinkering and sorting things out without a massive round trip to do anything.

Let me know when it's finished Begs - will come round for a look!

i think there should be a party at begbies house to cellebrate the longes project ever!!

Hmm....

Also, reply to my email you slag

haha, i will do that now!

In a weeks time it will have results....then you can break it for parts!!

think the rad might suffer or mainly the clip thingy holding the fan on from the other side. Are those hoses going to blow off again. Good luck mate you deserve it!!

No, the hoses ain't going to blow off, they have all been sorted by Phil. Just going to dread when I see Phil ringing, expecting the worse

Just seen the updates - full marks for dedication. You're nearly there now.

What plans for it? PM me if it's gonna be tracked up these parts.

Excited ? I know I would be

I will be when I get the phone call saying it's done. Already spoken with Phil at 8:20am this morning, about another minor issue, just means the boost has to be pegged down slightly until I sort the problem out, then back to his for the higher boost setting

Why not

so what is it making a 1 bar?? Any graphs??
i reckon 435bhp?? Or do you not know?

nick

Good stuff Alexis. You are showing plenty of patience mate,keep that up. It will pay off for you.

Nope, do not know the power, but I'll try and get something done within the next month. So just annoyed at being let down again by people picking the car up.

I bet its barely pushing the engine at 1 bar. What max boost do you reckon it'll run or are you gonna see how the mapping goes and let the mapper decide?

And please don't plan any April fools 'My engine just blew up on the dyno'....

I did contemplate an April fool, just so pissed off at the moment with not getting the car back when I expected, so think this year will be the first time I don't do anything.

Max boost I'm going to set at 1.5 and leave it there. Phil reckons it will be lairy enough on 1bar, let alone 1.5bar

The harder you brake or the more front braking force you have the greater the front weight transfer. Thus the load will be across the front axle, this unloads the rear and to such a point where if the rear is generating an increased retardation force then the rear wheels will lock. Locked rear at speed notably into a corner will send the car into an uncontrollable spin which is dangerous and I have experienced it with only changing the rear pads to ds3000's. So if beggars fits his big 6pot with grippy pads and stomps on the brakes from 100mph he wants the rear wheels to be doing vitaully no work as their grip with the road will be significantly reduced. The std compensator changes the bias as the anti roll bar moves to counter act, but its set for std ride height (starting balance) and std spring rate and caliper configuration.

The only time to fit larger rear brakes is if you tow a lot, have regualr heavy loads in the back of the car, or if you have some notable rear aero (one exception 2pot rears can be much lighter then cast iron calipers so weight saving could be an indication). Those who have fitted larger rears etc do so for aesthetics or dont really brake that hard (pad compound makes a huge diff too). There's no debate here, from looking at some of the touring cars I raced with from late 90's they have twin pot, small solid rear discs drilled to reduce surface area and they even have functional aero.

Hope this helps.

Beggars did you use a diff co to the previous one, its real guess, a shipply guy picked up the mini last week but was pretty good, had a huge ifor williams and a van. Could get his number from Tim if you wanted an alternative.

Rich

Just read the build thread for 2011, I was a bit behind! Congratulations Alexis. What a project it's been. Well done for sticking with it.

Have you taken her for an MOT yet?

John

No, not MOT yet, hopefully going for one this Thursday afternoon

One of the issues I had with the 20vt was that there was so much weight over the front on heavy braking that the rear end would lift and squirm about in anything other than a dead straight line. Upgrading the rear brakes really helped this, and they were not upgraded to the extent that they ever locked.

You could also handbrake turn the car - no way with the stock rear brakes.

Glad I could help over the weekend mate!

Looking forwardto seeing the car this week or at brooklands!!

sorry Suba I fail to see how that makes sense?? It sounds like the wet road rear bias method, when racing in the wet the rear bias is upped to make the weight transfer more even onto the fronts to stop them locking, but this method is associated with far less braking force then dry braking. Braking hard in the dry with good tyres and too much retardation from the raer will have the car squirming with locked rears. If you change the brakes and the problem goes with the same pressure, you have less rear braking force then before, that or the rear end is dropping speed before the weight shifts forwards but I doubt very much that is of any real effect.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOnlnshvsIc

Look at the accident at 1:02 in, I think that sums it up really.

4.50
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWz-S7CgmbI

Just from personal experience...my car behaved FAR better on track with upgraded rear brakes, and they never locked up.

Just watched your latest vid. Is the speedo not working? Also the injector light was on ?

Both correct Joe. Speedo isn't working at the moment, think I need a new sensor and the injector light is on, due to running an aftermarket ECU

That last puzzles me, Alexis - does the new ECU expect to drive a fault light? If not, just disconnect the dash light input by the MAP sensor.

Use the MIL light for Shift light or WI/NOS on light or ECU malfunction.

congrats Alexis,

came just to read this, curious on the figure once you get it all sorted.
Mind you, there are a few lights that can be recycled on the dash, I have the turbo spin light, yes there is one, linked to EBV so that I know when it's trying to built pressure (daft I know...) and the boxy cat like one to the IC water injection to have an idea when it comes in to play. I agree with Neil that you should simply remove the light for the injector (or find some other use for it, water injection which you don't have, nitro, which you don't have, you get the idea )

cheers

V.

Beggars doesn't your project thread need a final update?

It could do

What cams and cr do you run. 7.0.1?

CR is approx. 7.2:1 and the cams are the C&B medium road ones.

Any progress with yours begbie any plans on the horizon

Turn you boost up faggot!!

Nick

LOL

ive missed that abuse.