I had a 1997 FIAT Coupe 20VT in the UK which I imported into Canada in 2005 (http://www.tipo16v.co.uk/coupe/coupe.html) I moved to Houston in 2011 and left my car in storage in Canada.
Now it's 25 years old so I'm trying to import it into the USA. It would be easy if it was drivable because I could simply drive it over the border. However it's not be run for 10 years so I'm having to have it transported and using a broker.
It's not turning out to be very easy. Trying to determine a valuation is the first hurdle. I'll be charged 3% tax for an Italian car so I don't want to use the insurance valuation I had in Canada. It'll also need a 3x valuation bond from the broker. US customs typically expect you to have purchased the vehicle in Canada and have bill of sale with a CAD$ value.
The other issue is the VIN which they will need to confirm the build year of the vehicle.
My VIN is ZFA175000P******* where the last 7 * are the serial number. I tried to search for Coupe VIN numbers online and from what I could see they were all the same apart from the serial number.
I'm getting mixed results if I try and use various online VIN decoders. Some say it's 1993, some 1994, some a convertible etc. I have more success with UK sites than USA sites.
I think it's the "P" that's throwing them off. This is usually the model year and P means 1993, certainly using the USA VIN decoders such as https://www.autozone.com/vin-decoder
I have the Canadian and UK registration documents which should it as a 1997 which may help confirm it's age.
A couple of mates and myself have been attempting to rescue an abandoned 20vt which hadn't run for 13 years when we bought it, different issue to yours but it's still fighting its corner
You can't use the normal VIN decoders since it's not a normal VIN. Coupes of all years have the "P" so it's meaningless. It should be replaced by a zero and then input into ePer, which if you're lucky will give a date of manufacture, but for most Coupes it will be a month/year, and for early Coupes just the year.
However if you need more "proof" you could contact the homologation department at Fiat UK and for a small fee they will provide a letter confiming what you already know, but useful for sending off to the "authorities"
1996 Portofino 20vt & 2000 Pearl White Plus 2008 Ferrari F430 & 2017 Fiat 124 Spider
I found a customs broker who was fantastic. They completed the DOT and EPA forms for me and filed them electronically with US customs.
The car made it over into the USA okay with no problems with customs a couple of weeks ago:-)
I'm patiently waiting for it to arrive in Houston. The shipper was going to MA and DC first but while he was there the engine in his truck let go. He's been waiting for a new engine.
She finally arrived in Houston today in a 48' long trailer :-)
In addition to the list of things I thought I would need to do I can add a new master brake cylinder to the list!!
I didn't get that much done today. I removed the fuel pump which will be replaced due to sitting in old fuel for 13 years. I removed the injectors which will be cleaned and have new seals fitted.
She needs a wash but I need to fit a new battery first so I can close the window.
However on this forum I found that there are two sizes 22.2mm for 16V/VT and 23.8mm for 20V/VT. Those adverts that claim to be compatible with 20VT are actually 22.2mm in size.
What are people doing when they need a replacement? My seals have failed, probably dried out.
Yes there are one or two companies in Europe that are adamant they have the correct part but then send an incorrectly-sized one.
As far as I know over here the solution is to source a known second-hand unit - maybe message Joe at FCSS (Countrycruising on here) to see if he might have one.
Hi, i have just spoken to a company in Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk called Past Parts that repair/refurbish braking components. They would like details of the part and a photo to confirm that they could repair. Their e mail is restore@pastparts.co.uk phone no. 01284 750729, hope this helps.
Hi, i have just spoken to a company in Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk called Past Parts that repair/refurbish braking components. They would like details of the part and a photo to confirm that they could repair. Their e mail is restore@pastparts.co.uk phone no. 01284 750729, hope this helps.
That's a great shout ucoupia, fingers crossed for a positive outcome
I'm slowing making progress with getting the car ready to start: I've drained the fuel tank of 15 gallons of Canada's finest! It looked good but it smelt like varnish. The injectors have been sent for cleaning and I have some solvent to clean the fuel lines, fuel filter and fuel rail. I've fitted a new Walbro GS340 fuel pump. Battery has been replaced with an Optima Red Top, 13 years in storage killed the last one! Now I'm waiting on parts to replace the cambelt etc.
I've noticed some weird almost hologram like patterns in the paint. I'm guessing it's from being in the same position under LED lights for 13 years.
After checking the engine we're seeing damage in cylinder 1. We're not 100% sure yet but it looks like a small impact from possibly a value and bad scoring on the walls.
The turbo bearings were also shot so that'll need to be sent off to be rebuilt.
Given that it was struggling with low oil pressure before I put it into storage I've decided to pull the engine and have it rebuilt - this will be the 3rd time! The first time was to covert it to a 2.4 but that engine had detonation issues and destroyed the pistons. The 2nd rebuild was to replace the pistons and that rebore took it to 2.5.
It's a huge amount of work but it would be a ticking time bomb if I tried to drive her like she is. It's better to fix the engine now than to wait for a rod to go through the side!
Yes I think I am unless I source a replacement original block from the UK.
I'm talking to Joe about going back to a 2l crank or possibly a 2.4 block to go with the 2.4 crank.
It's been thanksgiving here so I haven't worked on it for a week. I'll be back at it on Sunday!
We'll know more what we're dealing with once we remove the head and inspect the scoring. It'll be interesting to find out if the scoring and any piston wear indicate piston slap.
I took the engine to a reputable race engine builder here in Houston called Faerman Racing Engines. The current pistons were the wrong size for the bore and rocked from side to side:
They said they could tell it had been re-bored already but it was okay for them to be taken from the current 83.5mm to 84mm. They have ordered another set of custom JE pistons. Unfortunately these will take between 6-8 weeks to be made.
The crank will be re-ground as well to the first undersized amount. They can get main and journal bearings locally at the correct sizes they need.
Good to see you are still about.
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