If the immobiliser code box is a separate unit like it is on the 16v and 20v coupes then first thing to try would be pulling out and re-connecting the plugs to that unit. That's a known issue on the 20v coupe, where the immobiliser stops recognising the keys and it's just a bad connection, pulling out the 2 plugs and re-inserting them at the yellow code box (in dash above fuse box) sometimes fixes it. It can also be that the code box has crashed, often due to low battery voltage, so disconnecting the battery completely to reset everything and then re-charging it before re-connecting can sometimes fix that problem too.
The code box can also become corrupted due to low voltage, resulting in the key data not being recognised... sometimes only 1 or 2 of the stored key numbers are corrupted though, so try all available keys that you have as 1 of them may still be recognised OK and allow the engine to start.
Thankfully this isn't one of the coop problems I have but it occurs to me you should be able to get a larger aftermarket sunroof and fit it into the sound metal surrounding, or is it the curvature of the glass that is the problem?
And conrods. Forgot them, but the same applies, unless there's wear at the little ends.
Edited to add: when Joe and I rebuilt my 16NA engine at 160k miles, we took one look at the cylinder pressures - better than 220psi across the board - and didn't even think about pulling the pistons or pulling the head.
Cheers Neil. The place that will most likely carry out the welding (as none of us have any experience) has been very good to us generally and especially re our project car. One chap there in particular is a rare find, one who is not only skilled but interested - we have to trust him to come up with his version of the repair and tread diplomatically when making suggestions about potentially telling him "how to do his job". However it's reassuring that all the pointers in this thread are going in a similar direction.
Both my front windows are 'squeaking' very bad when fully up in the door frame (this isn't something that has just happened, it's become progressively worse over 3/4 years) it's now to the point where it's driving me crazy! and I find I have to open them even in Winter & wet weather!. if you open them slightly it quietens them down - but not much
I assume this is because there is more play in the plastic bushes that hold the glass onto the mechanism? and whilst the 'play' is quite bad its not horrendous in comparison to other far newer cars that don't have this problem.
Has anyone else has this? if so what did you do to quieten them down? if it is the bushes are they still available new? (or a better aftermarket option?)
Also my door cards are creaking too - didn't someone a good few years ago put a long detailed post on how to cure all the Coupe rattles & squeaks? if so I would like to find that.
I'd gladly pay good money for someone to 'de-rattle' my Coupe!
Decided to only add the odd image from now on, because I have started shooting a motion control epic of the coupe and hopefully build from here on. Of the first 8 passes I only used one repeat - bonnet shut then open. I`m using a modular (read grafted shot by shot) (up to) 10 axis digital system so can do some interesting shots, however the space is very limited, solo set-ups not easy as supports very heavy and the background is an untidy mess. (I`m working on this) Add fluctuating natural light and colour temperature issues it`s a miracle I only binned 2 of the shots, i`m no displeased with the others.
Got under the back end at last. Much as the car has at least 10 areas I can name which need professional repair, it isn`t as bad as my mind had painted. I also understand the construction at the boot seams now and long lasting repairs should be possible.
Only one of the brake pipes came away from the compensator, even using fluid/heat and mini vice. I removed the valve with pipes attached without doing any damage I noticed. I had bought 2 new pipes on ebay and the quality is way better than I can achieve. Seems to lack wisdom to fit them as all four pipes in this area have either started to seep at about 15 years or have areas which are about to fail. I had planned to copy them. I also removed the nut/washer finally from the damaged rear heat shield fixing. I think the POR 15 will hold it in place without repair. Long story short, I don`t think there is any corrosion on the body or rails between the rear subframe so i`m going to have a go at getting it out for the refurb. I also fitting the n/s air intake, which isn`t possible without seriously altering it of course. For that `factory` look.
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I have been using the yokohama AD048R as a road and track tyre and can't fault them. They are ok in the wet and very stick well in the dry, my main complaint would be that they have increased a lot in price over the last couple of years.
But I run 215/40 17 on the car not sure if they come in 205/50 15
If the middle mark is 90 and the max mark is 130 then the 3/4 mark must be 110. My vis has been just past the 3/4 mark on track on a hot day with no issue although I did ease off for a lap before returning to paddock.
Probably wouldn't want to turn the engine off at that temperature to avoid heat soak. When I returned to paddock I checked the temp after a couple of minutes and the temperature had crept up again. Ran the engine breifly to circulate the water and watched it come down again.
Hi sorry for not replying however some personal issues have kept me preoccupied.
Yes I still have these cars and so far haven’t shifted them. They are now listed on eBay as they need to go and if not gone by end of the month I’ll have to strip and get rid. I’m leaving the property where I am just now and have nowhere to store going forward so needs must.
Tried selling on the Facebook group to no avail and would much prefer someone to take them who would try save them however my needs are such they need to go