my 20v Coupe won;t start

Ive checked that there is 12v to the injectors and the coils,I;ve got a spark..Ive done a compression test(PSI) No 1 125,No 2 130 No 3 150 No 4 150 No5 130 Which seems ok to me ..But what Ive noticed is even with the coilpacks disconnected the injector light on the dash goes off. So i disconnected the injectors and the injector light still goes off. This doesn t seem quite right to me unless I m doing something wrong bearing in mind the car doesn,t start. Has any knowledgeable got any ideas because i,m running out of the rapidly ...Thankyou

Is the injector light staying off during cranking?

Is the fuel pump priming when you turn on the ignition?

If not, check the fuel cut off switch, the fuel pump relay and fuse above ECU plus the yellow connector hanging next to the fuse box (connects to the fuel cut off switch at bonnet release handle) - it can become corroded and will go high resistance and then overheat.

Hi Graham ..the fuel pump primes and the injector light stays off during cranking ..what does that mean ?

It means there's something unusual going on as it doesn't fit 99% of coupe non-starts.

Was everything working fine before the non-start? Any other work carried out recently?

So the injector and code lights are both coming on , then going off and staying off during cranking?

I'd disconnect battery to reset everything and charge it overnight then try again in the morning. If still no luck it must be something very basic like no fuel getting to injectors.

thats exactly what it is Graham the fuel rail is pressurised but nothing from the injectors to the plugs just to make sure tomorrow i ;m going to change the crank sensor and try again putting in the cam over ride chip in the ECU again ...when you say what other work..the whole engine was changed last year and it hasn t started since so it wasn t working at all

Fuel hoses attached to fuel rail the correct way around? They should not be crossed. I've seen it done and engine wouldn't start even though there was fuel coming through and spark plugs were wet when removed.

If you pull a spark plug out after cranking is it wet or any smell of petrol from the plug hole?

Maybe bad earth somewhere if you've fitted a new engine, so double check all 6 earth points in engine bay.

If cam or crank sensor had failed it would show injector light during cranking so I'd just leave a standard chip in the ECU.

So you do get pressure but the injectors don't inject? I'd check timing and crank / cam sensors as a first measure.

HI I had a starting issue when I first got my coupe. the fuel line was getting pressure but it turned out to be the YCOD? may be worth checking.

at the time I thought it was the fuel cut off switch as each time the car cut out and I put my hand behind the dash to press the switch I disturbed the yellow connector without knowing and the car would start.

I also its worth cleaning behind the cam sensor pulley and sensor as rust and dirt over the years clogs the sensor and causes the sensor to fail.

the YCOD was replaced by a chocolate block years ago so thats ok and the pump is priming ..but cleaning the pulley is a great idea ..thankyou

Hi Graham the fuel hoses are the right way round ..i ve checked the earths even the hard to get to one on the bracket under the inlet manifold ..When you pull the plugs they are dry

Check with noid lights to see if the injectors are pulsing during cranking. If so, then problem will be in the fuel feed or pump/wiring, if they're not pulsing then it'll be wiring to the injectors, or maybe the ECU itself. Or maybe all injectors are blocked or dead but that seems unlikely.

BTW the ECU doesn't flag an unplugged injector until a few seconds after the engine is started and running.

i ve just bought a set of Noid lights to try thanks Graham

Okay, so i’ve Never heard of a Noid light before (things your learn from GrahamL) so endeavouring not to look foolish looked it up and found this interesting page which seems to describe in one of the posts your exact problem:

https://www.electronicspoint.com/threads/homemade-noid-light-for-testing-fuel-injectors.266928/

One faulty injector was stopping it all working!

the saga continues ..i tried my new noid light (Bosch) all flashed which is good ..what i did notice though after 5/6 flashes the became less bright ! Tomorrow i m putting a new cam shaft sensor on.Which the two relays under the passenger side dash with the red stripe which one is the fuel pump and which one is the relay for the injectors ?

Why would you replace the cam sensor when the ECU isn't flagging it as faulty?

Both relays need to be working for the fuel pump to work, but you can find which one is the pump relay by tracing back from the pump fuse which is next to them, along with the lambda sensor fuse IIRC.

If the noid light is flashing in each injector connector then I'd reconnect everything, pull the fuel rail with injectors out of the intake manifold and (carefully!) see if fuel is spraying out of all the injectors when you turn it over.

Maybe the fuel rail or pressure regulator or fuel lines/filter is blocked? May also be worth checking the actual voltage at the pump.

And make sure you don't have the cam sensor hack chip in the ECU, just test with the standard chip.

thats what i ll do then Graham ..thankyou once again .i really appreciate all your help

i now know what the problem is ..i removed the fuel rail removed the injectors and all 5 were dead and wouldn t pulse ..i had a set off a donor car of which 3 worked and 2 didn t so i ve ordered a set of 5 off ebay hopefully 2 will be ok I don t know how the five died but they did ?? So we will see

It’s probably a GDPR thing and they sent you a re-opt in message which you ignored so they stopped working