I'm planning to build my second Locost project, using 20VT i have spare in my garage.
My plan is to fit the engine longitudinally, for better weight balance. My existing build is transverse engine, it cost and weight less......Now braking, initial turn-in is great, but upon applying some boost, weight shifts to the rear and if front end did not point to the exit, no steering at all.
I want to use 20VT, have all aux for it, engine loom too......
Problem is that i must ditch OE gearbox and use BMW GB or any other longitudinal engine GB.
Which means that adaptor plate must be used.
Any solutions, know-how or similar builds i can follow????

Why would you use a 20VT lump in a kit? - surely its way too heavy.

There's also the generally-held opinion that turbo lumps and "seven" type kit cars don't mix well - you need instant throttle response, hence the usual use of a 1.6 - 2.0 N/A on throttle bodies

F20C from a Honda S2000
Vauxhall 20XE 'red-top'
Ford Zetec or Duratech

All would make a better kit than the 20VT engine

There is many reasons for using 20VT in a kit car(personally for me):
-I know the engine well and already have another one, with all wires and electronic on it, revised, with Stilo cyl. head, ready to be fitted.
-Weight is not such a problem, using Civic alternator, smaller starter, no power steering and hydraulic pump, 4PK aux belt with smaller alloy crank pulley(used only for alternator), without that huge engine mounts and big steer. pump to alternator pulley......i can shave a lot of weight......
-It will be cheaper for many reasons, mostly on the rear of the car - rear diff and driveshafts can be easily adapted to the hubs i'm using now and have many.
-I'm doing all by myself, and i can not afford to dealing, sourcing and exploring new engines, models and conceptions.
I know that turbo engine might be risky on kit car, but i drove recently below example, Zetec engine, Megasq ecu, turbo, dynoed at 136BHP - i was really impressed how stable, neutral can be such a car. Oh, and it was slowest i ever drive. But driveability was OK, boost set at 0.7, i guess GT28RS on 1.4 boost will cause some hassle, but i can live with it.
Problem for me as i said is GB to engine plate.......

If insisting on a 20v. I would go 2.4 stilo na. Much better low torque with remaping etc one hit 190bhp. Less in the engine bay aswell

How about making the kit car with the 20vt engine as rear engine and rear wheel drive, with standard gearbox? Too wide maybe?

It will be not rear engine, but like standart seven type cars.
With gearbox from BMW or any car with longitudinal engine layout.....

I can understand doing it "because you can" - when I set out on my quest to build a stupidly quick road car, I could have started with something much more suitable than a 20VT, but I wanted to do it "my way"

However, I still thnk you're going to end up with a car that's damned quick in a straight line, but unusable round a track

136bhp from a turbo'd Zetec is not a valid comparison, because they don't generate much less than that anyway (which means it isn't heavily turbo'd). A standard 20VT gives about a third more bhp than a N/A 5-pot engine, so it is going to be much more difficult to modulate the throttle around a corner

Surely everyone has experienced that weird feeling of lifting off the throttle a bit while on full boost, but the car continues to accelerate - this is a really unwelcome trait in a lightweight rear-drive kit car. My guess is that you will be spending an awful lot of time on opposite lock with a dead throttle, trying to get the back end in line

The suggestion above for a 2.4 Stilo lump would be better, especially as we know we can get them to around 200bhp with some choice mods

Having said all of the above, it would be hilarious to see what a Seven would be like in a straight line with a 300+ bhp Coupe engine, but I'll be content to experience it from this side of a YouTube video, rather than from either of the seats of the car....

My dream for the future is to put a 20v (probably NA) into an mx5. I know it would not help the handling and the power gains would be negligible but the low down grunt and the noise would make it worth the effort, like a mini muscle car.
I had the 2 parked next to each other a few weeks ago and measured up for curiosity and it would fit but I could see a few problems mounting that engine longitudinal.
Firstly where to put an engine mount on the exhaust side of the engine .
The inlet manifold would have to be custom made as it comes in from the wrong direction.
And the thermostat might prove to be in an awkward position .
Nothing that can't be solved, so do post your progress. I'd love to know how you get on.

Talking about 200+BHP, before fitted 20VT on my existing kit car, i used Alfa 166 3.0V6 with about 230 - 240HP.....it was fast and fun even with electric TB, and slow response....
I can use it 3.0V6 or 2.5V6, cause i have it as well.....
But for me there will be huge difference between longitudinal engine alongside me and transverse behind me.....
That's my goal and as soon as i figure how to fit a gearbox on it i will start it.


Engine mounts can be fitted in many places, it's only a matter of cutting and welding......same with manifold......
Thermostat from Renault 5 can be fitted in any coolant hose with a little bit of damn and force applied in right direction.....
I put an engine on the back of my trackday 156's after all so for me there is nothing that can't be solved......

How close is the 20vt to the 16v end plate? There ought to be transmission adaptor places for Fiat/Lancia twin-cam to Ford boxes... or try it the way this chap does: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuprPEhF2Ic