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#1620370 - 13/05/2018 10:22 Rear seat removal / rust
G_Man Offline
Club member 1656
Enjoying the ride

Registered: 16/03/2006
Posts: 744
Loc: Warrington
Well don't you like a job that's quick. 15mins saw the rear base seat out and rear door cards removed without having to remove the rear back swab (probably been done before at some point). Not the most complex of jobs granted but hey! Anyway evidence of water tracking from the badge pins plus the upper sills have a fair amount of surface rust particularly where the sill joins the leading edge of the rear wheel arch. Anyway it's a had a good wire brushing and will get a coat of rust inhibitor but will hold off with the cavity wax as it could cause problems if there's any future welding to be done. Also the usual coating of sealant on the pins. Not a difficult job but for those of you who haven't done it already it's a fairly easy win .. thumb


Edited by G_Man (13/05/2018 10:25)

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#1620376 - 13/05/2018 12:49 Re: Rear seat removal / rust [Re: G_Man]
G_Man Offline
Club member 1656
Enjoying the ride

Registered: 16/03/2006
Posts: 744
Loc: Warrington
..And why is it that the driver side's worse than the pax side with water getting in through the pins? I know others have noticed this in previous threads. Also on the drivers side I've got a small hole at the sill / wheel arch join so that'll need sorting pronto .. irked

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#1620386 - 13/05/2018 21:31 Re: Rear seat removal / rust [Re: G_Man]
Ballypete Offline
Club Board member
Enjoying the ride

Registered: 02/02/2017
Posts: 457
Loc: Leics UK
mine was the other way round- the side that was missing the pininfarina badge when I got her had no rust at all but the pax side was quite bad although managed to catch it just in time. How did you get to the two screws on the rear card that are behind the seat squab without taking it off?
_________________________
Doris the 1998 Portofino Blue 20V
Bog standard needn't be boring...

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#1620393 - 14/05/2018 06:54 Re: Rear seat removal / rust [Re: Ballypete]
Possum Offline
My life on the forum

Registered: 19/12/2005
Posts: 1544
Loc: Brisbane, Australia
Originally Posted By Ballypete
How did you get to the two screws on the rear card that are behind the seat squab without taking it off?


I also thought that. Maybe the cards had been removed previously and the screws were not refitted.

Have had mime out several times now including to have the hood lining recovered. Took the opportunity to do the rustproofing and sealing of the pins. Thank goodness no sign of the dreaded tin worm. smile
_________________________

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#1620420 - 14/05/2018 12:53 Re: Rear seat removal / rust [Re: Ballypete]
G_Man Offline
Club member 1656
Enjoying the ride

Registered: 16/03/2006
Posts: 744
Loc: Warrington
Originally Posted By Ballypete
How did you get to the two screws on the rear card that are behind the seat squab without taking it off?


The pax side was easy as you just dropped the split seat and the two screws to the rear are exposed and then it's an easy removal of the rear trim - obviously the base needs taking out. Drivers side more awkward as you need to push away the edge of the seat to get a screw driver in but it came out ok. Refitting was fiddly on that side and I haven't re-screwed the rear ones as I need to get it out again this weekend to do the hole repair. Not sure it's gaining you anything by not removing the back but it's possible smile This is the 16v so perhaps the 20v's have a different split seat set-up so doing the above may not be possible?


Edited by G_Man (14/05/2018 12:56)

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#1620572 - 18/05/2018 12:08 Re: Rear seat removal / rust [Re: G_Man]
dante giacosa Offline
Club member 1447
My life on the forum

Registered: 25/05/2012
Posts: 1840
Loc: Going North on the A9
driver's side is always worse as it gets the spray from oncoming traffic

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