I am thinking of having the battery relocated to the boot, it being housed in the spare tire well. i know the well will have to be slightly altered by a body shop and the electrics re-roughted by an auto electrician.

is this a good upgrade and are there any issuses with this set up other than no spare tire? Does the charge hold as well over a long wire going through the car?

Any pictures of a boot install would be great too.

Why? Maybe Im being dim but doesnt it belong in the engine bay next to all its 'friends'??

Because the coupe is very nose heavy, so this adjusts the weights balance closer to 50:50.

Can't see there being any problems. The Alfa Gtv has this set up and the only pain is when you need to change the battery

sounds like a good plan, relocated the battery to the boot of our alfa, put a tiny race batter (think its from a jetski heh) mosty because we needed the space under the bonnet for a catch tank, but cant help shifting the weight back either.

my version : wont but battery in boot, but chance the original battery for a lighter one.. why ? because then you get weight saving about 10kg. original battery weights about 17-18kg and if butting it to boot you need fat cable. and thats wery heavy, at least 5kg. so you add weigh, when battery is in boot. and much more work also.

5 Kg for the cable - What are you using - an armour plated liquid cooled jobbie

John

I’m planning on putting mine in the boot. There’s no particularly good reason behind it (certainly not performance related) other than my list of things to do to the coop was down to a measly 462 items.

Since a battery represents about 0.01% of the Coupe's total weight I don't think you are anyone else on the planet will notice the difference.

Filling your tank with petrol will do more to improve weight distribution.

As has been mentioned before. On LHD models its *possibly* worth it, as the driver is on the same side as the battery... on RHD models, your removing weight from the wrong side....

Ross

go on and weight 4-5m of 50mm cable, if you want that there wont be any loses of the cable. its HEAVY.

50mm are you sure

But anyway 50mm single core will weigh anywhere between 2 & 5kg / m, depending on armouring, ect. So by using 50mm you are adding 10 - 25kg

yes I´m sure. at least here in Finland we have to use fat cable because the weather ( -30 degrees ) if using smaller one, then there will be power losses on the battery. ok maybe 35mm will be still ok... but thats what I done my older car ( 155q4+50mm cable and battery boot )

Ah Ok, I think 50mm in our temps may be over kill, but I have no basis for that. But you're right about the weight anyway, in which case for you, it just doesn't work at all.

i have used 35 mm on mine.

Could use a Mini battery box to hold it it if your planning on modifying the floor

I tried this for a couple of weeks, and in normal driving noticed no difference, but when driving quickly I could notice it, although only slightly.
Sadly I knew (know) little of car electrics and so ran the earth the full length of the car as well . This did make a difference, you could tell the voltage took a drop. Once that was sorted the long live cable was fine, with the earth going to the boot floor.
Look at a Red Top battery, the type used by race cars, these are very light, and it woun't matter as much how tey are mounted. Their are two companies at least that make batteries labeled as Red Top, think it's the Varley ones you want (as sold by Demon Tweeks). Cost is about £100 iirc.

If the battery voltage drops then how does this effect the voltage to the fuel pump?

On the subject of weight distribution I took the spare wheel out for a track day once - the back of the car felt way too light and it went straight back in.

Well, given that you can have a direct feed from the battery to the fuel pump it wont make any difference at all.

Not really what I meant! if it does then....

Well what I meant is if you use decent cable, you shouldn't see much voltage drop and the battery will be closer to the pump, so the relative voltage drop compared to when the battery is in the engine bay should be less.

I've used 0AWG but I dont think Dave used anything quite so thick. Probably because he was struggling to route both the cables. Sorry Dave, I still crack up when I think of that thread.

so...resuming.... i need to pass the positive cable from the engine to the battery in the boot...... and the negative also?? and here in spain that is hot temperatures....what cable do you recommend? 50mm or less?

No, you just need to run a cable for the positive side of the batter, then earth it in the boot. I'd run as fat a cable as you can basically.

and all the earth cables that go to the battery in the engine? also conect to the chasis?

There's only one earth cable in the engine bay that goes to the battery. But yes, they should all be to the chassis.