right after playng around with my set up on paper and experiences from other coupes ive been in i know that a rear arb makes a world of difference.

i would love to buy the Eibach kit, but jsut cant afford it at this moment in time so my other option is to go for a whiteline rear arm..

looking at which one to go for..

they do a 22mm and a 24mm rear arb.

ive been told by a track lover that a 24mm will make the back end a bit lively...

but what will the 22mm do to the car?

the full spec to be fitted to my car shorty will be..
koni's + Eibach
camber bolts (-1 degree)
poly bushed front end (lower arms, drop links, front arb 23mm bush's)

i have been thinking about hub spacers but i dont want to put extra pressure on the hubs.

advice needed please!

Marco

22mm is a straight fit, the 24mm will need custom brackets making.

I have the 24mm on the back of mine (with D2 rear shocks and springs) and its the single best handling mod I have done.

my back end is really stable with the 22mm and i have heavier springs in the rear than the front.
you could add a dedra front arb later if you really wanted too.

ok... so with you both saying the 22mm and 24mm are great..

help...

I'd say; if you have a lot of other de-understeer-mods fitted you'd find even the 22mm giving the car a tad too much oversteer sometimes. But if you still have, say the battery up front, you'd be very ok.

But to say the Whiteline 22mm is a "straight fit" is stretching the truth a bit..

Depends how you want the car to handle and how track/road orientated you want it to be.
The bigger bar will make it understeer less by giving the rear less grip,which you should only really notice pushing hard on track days, I don't think your fully exploit this on the road.( i have not tried the 24mm)
Sparco is using the 24mm with std front arb at totb and still getting understeer,which is the nature of the car.
as mentioned above you have to get the brackets made up for the 24mm where the 22mm you can use the std brackets.
If you go for the 24mm and you dont like the rear bias you can add a dedra front arb to give you amore neutral overall flatter handling car.

I have Dedra front ARB & whiteline 22mm rear ARB, the car is pretty neutral. Very happy with my setup.

Marco this is really good question!

I have almost the same setup Koni & Eibach Pro Kit and have no idea which ARB is the best for Coupe.

i want to be able to drive the car to its limits... of course the coupe is know for its understeer...

i want to keep the front arb the way it is..

i cant find a deda front arb for love nor money.

i may just go for the 22mm rear, it seems to be a well balance set up.. i dont want to put a 24mm on the rear then have to change the front to a dedra arb to keep it in line!

There is one for sale currently in parts for sale

think thats sold mate..
plus i cant be arsed to change it!

that's my set up, but incudes Nigel's front lower brace and the standard Plus brace....i have a lot of difficulty pushing it out of line, and like taffy i'd say the whiteline rear arb made the most noticeable difference

you sick man..

Me sick?????

There's a simple answer....

A Novitec 23mm rear ARB

That's what I have, although I can't remember the last time I heard of one for sale

Personally, I'd go for the 24mm and then use other measures to control the onset of oversteer. I actually don't think the 24mm will eradicate understeer, especially on power, but it will make the rear end move around when you lift off mid bend.

Simple tracking and camber settings will make it all stable again though

Quite keen on getting at 22mm bar but where and how much...dont need any oversteer thats for sure..

My setup will be billes and eibachs plus uprate arb.Wishbones etc only done about 1k.

Could poll for a group buy via balancemotorsport?

Im up for a 22mm whiteline rear ARB.

as a comparison i paid £125 for mine

Cheers proccy.Will do some enquiring.

There around £115 from balance motor sport!

Can you do the polling in the GB section so we can keep this on track!

@ Nigel, say I go for the 24mm arb, what other things could I adjust to get things moving correctly?

Tracking - easily sorted..
Camber - ?? What setting do you think will work? -1 degree?? Or more?

Take in mind it will still be my daily driver and I would like a set if tyres to last!!!

For street/occasional track: camber -1.5deg, I think -1 is std (on std ride height).

edit: thanks Nigel, -0.5deg std camber.

also if you go for the 24mm one there's a bit of firtling about trying to get them to fit, whereas the 22mm is i believe a straight fit (pretty much)

Marco - you can play with camber and tracking, as well as damping in order to adjust how the car behaves

Per - standard camber is -0.5 (but with a tolerance of +/- 0.5)

Proccy - my 23mm ARB required some 'persuasion' to get the rear brake compensator bracket to fit, but that was about it. A 22mm would be easier, but I can see that a 24mm might require some more serious adaptation of the compensator bracket. IIRC, that's the only bracket - the ARB doesn't mount to the body/chassis in any way

Marco - go for the following:

22mm arb - it's easier to fit, and will do the job fine. Also you do not have the stiffest suspension in the world, so you dont want the back too solid.

for a daily driver go for -1.1 or 1.2 degrees on the front, and also go for half a degree of toe-out.

Right before I go crazy, I'm buying a 22mm front arb.

Now tge front arb, I'm right in saying it's 23mm yer?

What size is the dedra front arb??

The 22mm is much easier to fit, and does not do any nasty to things to the handling,
I have a brand new Dedra front arb collecting dust in my garage,I might sell at some point! (depends on what poundage springs i end up with)
I think its 25mm +
like suba said 1.0-1.2 neg camber,but i dont like toe out personally,I would keep the std 2mm total toe in.( try it and see)

The toe out really helps turn in.

but it makes it less stable,and i don't feel my car needs to turn in any quicker!
But like i said its personal,so Marco should try both.

If you want a stable road car then there is no point stiffening the rear end to make it move about rather than understeer!