I've now finished putting the battery in the boot, I'm not sure it's made much difference to the handling but access to items under the bonnet is much better now!!

In the kit boot; plastic body so I need to carry the earth forward as well. It doesn't seem to suffer from five metres of 170A (25mm) cable in each leg...

Do you have a link to the red terminal box in the third picture? At the moment I have a 'repurposed' terminal from a dead battery doing the job.

All good until you get a puncture...

A lot of modern cars don't come with a spare these days, just a can of tyre foam.

Really? i bow to your knowledge, but what a completely bonkers idea!

the foam works realy well when you have a blow out at 70 and the tyre comes off the rim lol

Did mine differently, but it's worth the efforts...

I've never been able to carry a spare and so far so good. Worst case I guess I'll have to call the AA if I'm far from home...



Neil, this is what I used if it's of any use to you...

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport...Boxes/1451/1294

I got the junction box from the local electrical supplier and painted it red

Junction Box

I've got a kit which includes a pump and replacable foam canister and if that fails AA relay

Just another point, when you do move the battery to the boot, it's a good idea to put a megga fuse as close as you can to the battery, if you do get a short you're covered. I've seen a few of these go up over the years causing exploding batteries and fires

[quote=MrT]



Firstly brilliant work!!

one thing, where did you buy the red and black box things from??
i will do this to mine before Spa!

also, what are you using to keep the battery in place??

Thanks

Marco

This is what i have bought for my track Coupe.
http://www.gt2i-competition.com/BAC_A_BATTERIE_ETANCHE_45AH_55AH-p-11830-c-220_236.html

Thanks, MrT. I haven't included a fuse because to be honest I think the biggest risk is actually something across the terminals... I have a fiberglass body and *at least* two layers of insulation between the poles at all point. Probably not a bad idea, though...

I was thinking of doing the same but, ive been reading that for LHD cars it dosen´t make much difference on handling, is that true?

If it is, i just can`t understand why?.

As I said in an earlier thread, with that solution you WILL risk the paintjob at the back of your Coupe!

At the event acid drops (alternator fail, track day etc.) it will drop on the ground and by turbulence stick at the back and ruin the paint.

Been there, bought the t-shirt.. One thousand small holes meant respray.

Use sealed/gel batteries.


This quote usually comes from people who have'nt tried it yet, but what they meant is: On RHD cars the battery would act as counterweight to the left.. So if you'd put the battery centre rear the car would be more "right-heavy". (But especially, better balanced front-rear).
You could always, as shown above, have it more to the left in the rear.

Here's mine: (never mind the absence of gelbatteries, old pics)
http://sfk.ibk.se/depa/index.php?sub=viewcar&car_no=123

thanks Per.

i thought eswell that it would be better balanced , but like a sayed some people have sayed its not. just wanted to confirm.

thanks for the pics very helpfull!!

[quote=Per]As I said in an earlier thread, with that solution you WILL risk the paintjob at the back of your Coupe!

At the event acid drops (alternator fail, track day etc.) it will drop on the ground and by turbulence stick at the back and ruin the paint.

Been there, bought the t-shirt.. One thousand small holes meant respray.

Use sealed/gel batteries.

Hi Per

That's why I've put mine in a battery box with a breather tube fitted, any spillage is contained in the box

Hi Marco

Thanks mate.
The red box is a battery box form fleabay or any racing supplier and the little black box is the 250amp megga fuse. The battery sits on a foam pad and is wedged at the sides with hard foam strips, once the top is bolted on it's all sealed nice and tight.

ahve you got a link??

Also, would a sub/amp fuse be man enough to man enough to coupe with this?

im removing the sub from my car and i have the power cable in place already..

so all i would need to get is just a tray like yours and the engine side connector!

i cant remember what fuse i have in place already...

the power cable is 0.1 gauge i think and the earth is a 0 gauge!
chunky!!!

Ah I see, good.

Marco, the fattest cable you can get. The starter stalls at around four or five hundred amps...

I've used 170A cable for both go and return; that's 25 square millimetre and probably the heaviest you can get. If I fuse it it will probably be at 250 or 300 hundred amps (because the I think cable is overdriven during starting - not a problem because it's for only a few seconds).

Your amp cable may work once or twice but is not man enough for regular use.

This thread has caught my interest. I am not so bothered by the arguament of weight distribution as my car often is carrying extra weight in the boot etc.

However the thought of clearing the tray and battery out the way is very appealing.

Neil....
your talking spanish again...

all i understand from that is, my cable is bad/ not man enough... i need a new cable and a big fuse for this...

what cable shall i look for then??

i cant be bothered to work today so im going to get this ordered and sent to me before the car is back from re-spray.

Marco get a 25mm seccion cable of a 170 amp, bought mine yestuday on ebay.

how long does the cable need to be??

and is this what i need??

yep marco, thats correct! I bought the one of 3.95 a meter.
Thats perfect 170amp and 25 mm seccion.

You need approx 4m of cable from the bulkhead to the boot, maybe a little more

i may get 5m, end of the day i can always chop it down!

can i use the .0 gauge earth cable still??

...depends of the amp cable you have, in the old volvo I had, the amp cable was fatter than the batt one. If so concerned go for 50mm2, the phisical difference (diameter) is minimal compared to 35mm2, the price diff also, they are around 4Eur and 3,5Eur respectively. There are also protective sleeves cheap enough. Better place to get (price-wise) is big store for electric material or big i-net/ibay supplier.
Reference here, bootom of the page , though not covering the european standarts.