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Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle #1478096
08/03/2014 20:16
08/03/2014 20:16
Joined: Dec 2005
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Berlin
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Berlin
The time has come, the Walrus said, to speak of many things.
Of ships and string and sealing wax, and whether pigs have wings...

And apparently they do, since I've getting my hands dirty doing some tidying up, mostly the interior/console and the engine compartment. It's getting a respray in April, so before then I want to sort out some of the rust under the bonnet and get some new hoses on the engine.

First - the undertray. I didn't even *look* for a replacement, but the car has been off-road too many times (farmers fields, tops of mountain tracks when I've been flying) and parts of it have abraded completely away.

click to enlarge click to enlarge

Getting busy with some fibreglass to try and hold it all together; here's today's result from the bottom; the glass has been applied to both sides. Tomorrow I'll trim it and sand smooth as required. I'm not planning to repaint it.

click to enlarge click to enlarge

Currently it's curing overnight. If nothing else, it's one less rattle...


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Don't get no respect! Coupe Fiat 1994-2000 - an owner's guide <-- clicky!
Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1478203
09/03/2014 21:01
09/03/2014 21:01
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Berlin
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Berlin
Here's the finished undertray, after trimming, sanding smooth to avoid fiberglass in the fingers, and a quick squirt of paint.
click to enlarge

Next... bumper and crash pad off:
click to enlarge click to enlarge

ICV removed and given a little wash and brush up
click to enlarge

Now the thermostat replaced by one made of finest unobtanium (and some new radiator hose):
click to enlarge click to enlarge

And finally, a quick look at some of the rust along the front members and the slam panel. Fortunately, it's only scab; cosmetic, not structural (yet!). Scrubbed off with a wire brush and hit with Jenolite before a quick blow-over with black paint; not elegant but it might keep the tin worm at bay until I can afford that strip and dip (ha!)

click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

Then put it all back together and hope none of the fasteners I had to drill out are actually critical until I can replace them. Memo: when replacing the thermostat, don't connect the air feed from the inlet pipe to the outlet for the heater... (like I did) could be an expensive mistake!


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1479097
15/03/2014 18:44
15/03/2014 18:44
Joined: Dec 2005
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Berlin
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Hmm. Car is overheating at idle and in traffic. OK on the move. All the pipes and the rad are hot, and shorting the connector spins the fan, but the fan's not coming on. Conclusion - new radiator temp switch ordered.


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Don't get no respect! Coupe Fiat 1994-2000 - an owner's guide <-- clicky!
Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1479207
16/03/2014 11:04
16/03/2014 11:04
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Berlin
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More on the interior - the last removable console panel is the heater control unit:
click to enlarge
Not terribly tatty but sticky and gouged in a couple of places.

With the nasty stuff taken off and repainted:
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Back in situ and it really shows up the remainder of the console... unfortunately, not easy to remove, and something of a pain to sort out that area of sticky. I'll try and see if I can use the methylated spirit to clean up the existing surface, or if it will leave it sticky.

click to enlarge click to enlarge

More important: next two jobs are passenger window, which has given up (and down), and driver's door lock which is stiff and sticking on occasion.

Last edited by barnacle; 16/03/2014 11:08.

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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1479823
19/03/2014 23:36
19/03/2014 23:36
Joined: Dec 2005
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Berlin
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No pictures, but radiator switch now replaced with a shiny new one. It cuts in at 102 or thereabouts.

The interior console is sticky in places, improved in others. I think it needs more effort...


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Don't get no respect! Coupe Fiat 1994-2000 - an owner's guide <-- clicky!
Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1480351
23/03/2014 19:33
23/03/2014 19:33
Joined: Dec 2005
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Berlin
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Another day, another door... and a bit of a detective story. This is to make the passenger window go up and down.

Start by removing the door card; first remove the five cross-head screws below the bottom edge, and pop the four covers (three shown) and remove the hex bolts beneath. Only three shown because, mystery one, there are only three bolts on mine.
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Remove the cover below the handle (it's a different shape) and remove that bolt, and the bolt which goes up from behind the handle, then remove the handle.
click to enlarge
While you're at it, remove the screw that holds the handle trim. The door card then lifts up from the bottom and lift the card off the inner edge of the window space, working from the back.
Note the tasteful (mystery two) packaging tape holding the somewhat torn and tattered rain trim on...
click to enlarge
To get to the winder motor is tricky. Since there are volts present at the connector, but the motor doesn't even twitch, it looks like the motor is jammed. Three nuts hold the motor to the frame (mystery three - one was almost off the stud) and removing them allows the motor to be moved around in the door space. It won't let you get it out though: it's also attached to two guide posts which are held with two bolts each. I discovered too late there's no need to remove these...

click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge revealing mystery four: why is there a feed for the puddle lamp? The 16NA has no puddle lamp... click to enlarge
The motor can be removed from the traveller system by unscrewing it from behind, blind, once it's removed from the door; there are four crosshead screws which once removed allow the motor to be pulled away.
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

There seems to be no way of dismantling the lifter motor so if it doesn't go it's going to need replacing. Fortunately, once removed, the motor decided to spin in the appropriate manner, so it was either a jam, or (mystery five) the unexpected scotchlok connectors were playing up. Mystery six is the presence of a couple of chunks of toughened glass in the bottom of the door.

Either way, all back together and working, with some rather fine red gaffer tape to hold the waterproofing up... click to enlarge

Now the mystery: I've never had the door panel off. However, eighteen years ago, there was an incident involving an unlit skip, a scaffolding pole, and Mrs Barnacle. That led to a three inch gouge in the passenger door and rear quarter which was repaired under insurance.

One might have expected that an insurance approved repair centre would have used, on a less-than-two-year-old car, new parts. What I conclude, though, is that they have sourced a second hand door from a crashed 16vt - hence the glass, extra wires, missing screws, and probably all the squeaks and rattles.


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Don't get no respect! Coupe Fiat 1994-2000 - an owner's guide <-- clicky!
Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1481301
29/03/2014 20:37
29/03/2014 20:37
Joined: Dec 2005
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Berlin
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Curiouser and more curious... the driver's door *does* have a puddle lamp.

It's not working at present, along with the interior lights and the clock, for reasons I have not yet investigated - they worked a couple of days ago. Perhaps a fuse.

Hmph.

Anyway... this is how the door screen *should* fit. The passenger door has been replaced inside out...
click to enlarge

Investigated the driver's door lock, which has been a bit sticky: three plastic rivets hold the window seal in place, then the guide rubber is removed to reveal the two screws and a further screw on the outside.
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Unfortunately one of the screws goes round and round but remains firmly attached to something inside which prevents the removal of the handle, so I settled for greasing what I could reach.

Instead I settled for a little more work removing sticky from the centre console. Turns out that plastic pan scrubby things are excellent at removing it... not perfect yet but a damn site better than when I started.

click to enlarge click to enlarge


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1481478
30/03/2014 17:42
30/03/2014 17:42
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 33,597
Berlin
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In the back of the garage I found the original lights (replaced some years ago when the UV coating fell off). A quick polish with metal polish (unchanged on the left):

click to enlarge

The units on the car are somewhat, er, mouldy (or possibly some strange lichen growth):

click to enlarge
click to enlarge

After polishing the old units, which also sorted the last remnants of the UV coating:

click to enlarge

Also cleaned up the rubber gaskets which were still attached (and to be fair, also somewhat of a site of special scientific interest...). Now they're in the back of the car so that I don't forget them when I take the car to Joe's for the respray in a couple of weeks.


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1483396
13/04/2014 09:08
13/04/2014 09:08
Joined: Dec 2005
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Berlin
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The car is now at Joe's, stripped out and ready to paint. The mystery of the passenger door is resolved: it's a 20v door that's been modified to take the 16v door card - I have no idea why the bodyshop felt the need on a car only a year or so out of production at the time, but there you go... clock and interior lights work again after replacing the fuse (they're supposed to be different fuses, but there you go!).

Big pile of bits for me to tart up and mostly spray black this week - B-panel trims and lock panels (just ordered a couple of new 16V badges from the bay), the windscreen wiper arms front and rear, wing mirrors, wiper cover panel, grille, fuel filler cap and no doubt other bits I will remember as soon as I open the big box of bits I brought back.

There's nothing in the car aft of the front seats; the interior trim and seats are out to get at the trim fixings and to clear access for some welding to be done under the Pininfarina badge, driver's side (the passenger side is for some reason still in reasonable condition).

Pictures later, hopefully.


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Don't get no respect! Coupe Fiat 1994-2000 - an owner's guide <-- clicky!
Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1483489
13/04/2014 22:30
13/04/2014 22:30
Joined: Dec 2005
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Berlin
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Dismantling, cleaning, and painting of matt black external trim proceeds apace:

The insides of the door handle: dismantle by removing the two circlips (one on the transfer crank and one on the long hinge pin) and removing the screws holding the lock barrel and the hinge frame. When putting it back together, handed parts have a 'd' or an 's' cast into the part for right and left. Note - last picture is the other side - one screw on the lock didn't want to release so I didn't push it too hard.
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

Trim painted:
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

No 'before' pictures - too embarrassing! The handles are now back together, greased on the spring, and the lock barrels will be cleaned and oiled when I get the keys back.


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Don't get no respect! Coupe Fiat 1994-2000 - an owner's guide <-- clicky!
Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1485516
28/04/2014 16:42
28/04/2014 16:42
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 33,597
Berlin
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Berlin
Some belated 'before' pictures...

Behind the Pininfarina badges - good side and bad side: the metal's being replaced on the bad side.
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Looking a bit battle-scarred:
click to enlarge

Full of empty:
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Piles of removed bits:
click to enlarge click to enlarge

And the worst of the wheels:
click to enlarge

Last edited by barnacle; 28/04/2014 16:43. Reason: Pics courtesy Joe's camera

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Don't get no respect! Coupe Fiat 1994-2000 - an owner's guide <-- clicky!
Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1486480
03/05/2014 18:29
03/05/2014 18:29
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 33,597
Berlin
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Berlin
click to enlarge


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1488747
18/05/2014 13:26
18/05/2014 13:26
Joined: Dec 2005
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Berlin
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Berlin
It's back...

All the bits back together, new original mats, new exhaust, flex, and cat, newly painted wheels, shiny shiny shiny.

Still needs before the weekend: wheels replacing, oil change, new filter, replacement oil pressure sensor, and a fan remote switch - the switch in the radiator is new, but operates five degrees hotter than I would like, so I want a temporary override in the cabin.

Granddaughter helped polish...
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

Shots for the insurance valuation - still on winter wheels:
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge


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Don't get no respect! Coupe Fiat 1994-2000 - an owner's guide <-- clicky!
Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1515558
15/11/2014 23:12
15/11/2014 23:12
Joined: Dec 2005
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Berlin
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Today Joe and I dropped the engine from the coupe, which is in winter hibernation and continuing the on-going fettle.

En passant, we noticed the following couple of things that will require fixing or replacing before things go back:


  • Drive shaft gaiters (one almost split)
  • Steering rack gaiters
  • Differential final drive seals
  • Inlet doughnuts
  • Drop links
  • Track rod ends (found a couple at the back of my garage!)
  • Shock absorbers (one is gently leaking at the front)
  • Cam belt kit and associated parts
  • Water pump
  • Engine mounts
  • Front bumper legs
  • Welding around subframe mounts
  • Clutch flexible pipe
  • Brake flexible pipes
  • (Possibly) brake solid pipes


And then on the engine, we also expect to need


  • Exhaust cam shaft
  • cam shaft seals
  • big end, mains, and thrust bearings
  • core plugs
  • head gasket set
  • sump gasket
  • differential
  • various gearbox seals
  • clutch


I hate to think what this little lot is going to cost.


[Linked Image]
Don't get no respect! Coupe Fiat 1994-2000 - an owner's guide <-- clicky!
Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1515680
16/11/2014 21:46
16/11/2014 21:46
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Berlin
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Berlin
Some photos of the yuck, crap due to phone's inability to be both a phone *and* a camera.

Rust at the bottom of the passenger suspension tower: click to enlarge

Oily gearbox and sump, slightly bent: click to enlarge

Bumper tower; driver's side is as bad: click to enlarge

Amazingly, the engine is still attached: click to enlarge

Clutch operates perfectly! click to enlarge

Brake pipe protective layers worn away by inlet piping: click to enlarge

The fuel pipes go this way around! click to enlarge

Outer CV gaiter still *just* intact: click to enlarge

This is supposed to be clean and dry, not wet and oily: click to enlarge

Awaiting my tender mercies next week: click to enlarge

Hmmm. 16 inlet doughnuts don't seem to exist...


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Don't get no respect! Coupe Fiat 1994-2000 - an owner's guide <-- clicky!
Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1516321
23/11/2014 11:28
23/11/2014 11:28
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Berlin
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When looking at this restoration, you have to remember that this is a car which has driven seven times around the world, and is well on its way to an eighth. It's never had an easy life; commuting into London, cheerfully driving to Berlin or the north of Scotland without a thought. I recall one weekend when we thought "let's drive to Strasbourg for a couple of days" and did...

It's on its second engine and gearbox - the original engine threw a belt at 45k (a fortnight before it was booked in to change it!) and it was never the same after; eventually it killed a big end and bent the conrod halfway up Glencoe on Christmas Eve... one of the very few occasions when it has 'failed to proceed'. The replacement was sourced from a crashed coupe of similar mileage in the days when you scoured the small ads rather than via the internet.

So you'd expect a certain amount of wear and tear...

We started with the gearbox. Before the 20th anniversary trip to Turin, a faint click had become obvious from underneath the car, once per rev of the right hand front wheel - obviously something with the differential.

click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

And eventually we get to the culprit:
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Actually, two broken teeth on the output drive pinion, for some reason at opposite sides of the gear. This has been cheerfully driven flat out for several thousand miles since it was first evident, and who knows how long before... The original plan had been to replace this differential with a 16vt diff and trade acceleration for improved fuel economy, but it requires changing the final drive spur gear which is right at the back of the cluster. Plan B was to drop in the diff from a replacement NA box, but it makes more sense just to replace the entire box; we'd have to strip the replacement as far as this one anyway and given the absence of any visible wear it's a pretty safe bet just to drop it in as is.

So, on to the engine. We already know the exhaust cam shaft needs replacing, so off with the inlet manifold and the rocker cover:
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Over the years, both the sump and cam cover gaskets have seeped, though the head gasket and compression are excellent. Neither have been changed until now.
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

There are no bearing shells for the camshafts, just lots of machined carriers and a seal at the belt end. There was some very mild scoring on the inlet cam bearing surfaces but for now it's going back in; it can be changed without having to remove the engine. New exhaust cam is required, though.
click to enlarge

If we'd thought about this first, we'd have removed the crank *before* we removed the cams, because then we wouldn't have had to put the cams back in to stop the bucket followers and shims falling out. Doh.
There are a lot of bolts holding the sump on; they're pretty tedious to remove. Driving along the same farm tracks as tractors to paragliding launch sites tends to have an impact on the shape of the sump...
click to enlarge

Not metal swarf but bits of sealant from somewhere or other. For the miles it's done, that's a really clean engine. Here's a question: where are the only 14mm headed bolts on a coupe?
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Crank removed along with main and big end bearing shells. The oil pump and clamping plate have to come off first - six bolts each, some well hidden in the grease (which has preserved the bolts as if new!). There are two thrust bearings at the gearbox end.
click to enlarge click to enlarge

None of the big ends show anything other than expected wear; there is light scoring on the two outside mains which will be reground before refitting. One of the big end shells had an obvious high-spot (I forgot to photograph it) caused in the factory; there was a tiny bit of swarf stuck between the shell and casting which will had caused a high-spot of a couple of thou...
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge


This many nuts and bolts go into a 16NA engine:
click to enlarge click to enlarge
The oil pump is in excellent condition:
click to enlarge

The plan of action
Engine mounts are on their way to me; the existing mounts are submerged in releasing fluid in the hope that they might not need grinding off!
Shopping list going together for replacement parts; we've sourced a camshaft and the inlet doughnuts but we need to add up all the gaskets required. The same source we hope can provide a couple of water pipes. The thermostat is only five thousand miles old. A couple of water pipes may be replaced with silicone as they're just right-angle bends.
I'm looking largely for originality on the engine so don't expect any bling, but a number of parts will be airblasted and powder coated including the radiator support and the oil heat exchanger water pipes and the crankcase breather pipes, and anything else that looks as if would benefit from some rust-proofing.

It will probably be a couple of weeks before the next update.


Last edited by barnacle; 23/11/2014 11:31.

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Don't get no respect! Coupe Fiat 1994-2000 - an owner's guide <-- clicky!
Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1517669
06/12/2014 08:05
06/12/2014 08:05
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Berlin
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Berlin
Just a brief note; no pictures.

The crank has been re-ground (0.25mm under) and is currently on its way to TTI for re-nitriding, after which it will be lapped and polished and new bearings provided.

The new cam-shaft is on its way along with the CHOD-equivalent and a couple of other bits of pipework.

I have three shiny new engine-mounts. One has possibly the wrong thread (it's for a Dedra, not a coupe) which will be resolved by either a different bolt or cutting the thread.


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Don't get no respect! Coupe Fiat 1994-2000 - an owner's guide <-- clicky!
Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1517748
07/12/2014 00:53
07/12/2014 00:53
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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1518819
17/12/2014 10:06
17/12/2014 10:06
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Berlin
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Berlin
Shiny for xmas decorations: after grinding, hardening, and polishing... just need to find some 0.25mm/10 thou oversize bearings now.

click to enlarge


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1518833
17/12/2014 12:27
17/12/2014 12:27
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Berlin
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Berlin
Oooh... I wonder if 16vt and 16v engines have the same bearings?

http://www.deltaparts.co.uk/index.asp?itemID=226

Why, yes, they are! Woohoo!


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1518867
17/12/2014 18:46
17/12/2014 18:46
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(cough) full gasket set

Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1518876
17/12/2014 20:43
17/12/2014 20:43
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Berlin
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Scroll down...

Plus lots of seals too. Not sure what if anything you'd ordered... but I think we need:

- crankshaft main bearings £45
- big end bearings £40
- thrust bearing £10 (don't know if we need oversize yet)
- gasket set £100
- full rotary seal set £42

which looks rather a lot cheaper than we thought. Re bearings: A B C are the initial grind select to fit, then +10 and +20 thou.


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1522059
17/01/2015 22:28
17/01/2015 22:28
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Berlin
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Work has resumed on the engine rebuild; today the mains, big end, and thrust bearings were refitted along with (obviously!) the ground, hardened, and polished crank. The shell bearings were all 0.25mm (ten thou) oversize to fit the regrind while the thrust bearings were standard size as there has been no change to the crank there; the end-float is fine.

Everything is turning very nicely, though we did have one small issue: some sort of sealant had been used in the crank-end thread, presumably to keep the hardening effect there to a minimum, and it was a bit fiddly to get it out. Normally you'd just run a tap through, but this bolt is left handed...

The stubborn front right engine mount has been removed; an angle grinder removed the shell and then two of us with a meter of lever each sheared the bolt, to our annoyance, but that's not a major issue... we did establish that the front left mount is incorrect, so I'll need a new one. Never mind.

With the engine turned over, we replaced the inlet cam, complete with a new seal. A cunning move on Lancia's part is that the inboard cap bolts are too long to fit... if you happen to forget the oil bar. Doh...

With the original shims, the clearances are all as they should be (0.4mm +/- 0.04 - 16 thou +/- 1 thou) with the exception of the two endmost valves which were about a thou tight - obviously a little erosion of the valve seats. After a little thought, we decided to live with it, and keep an eye on it in a few thousand miles.

One oddity: on one of the big ends and one of the mains, the shells showed wear high-spots. In both cases, the cause was a tiny splinter of metal, lodged between the shell and the housing. I can't see how this could have got there without it being a manufacturing carelessness... anyway, the housings were scraped clean, which removed the embedded swarf, so I'm a bit happier about it now.

Pictures soon.

Last edited by barnacle; 17/01/2015 22:29.

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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1522080
18/01/2015 09:00
18/01/2015 09:00
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Berlin
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Glyco's finest bearings ready to go
click to enlarge

Half of them fitted
click to enlarge

Lots of oil on the journals
click to enlarge

And then dropped - carefully - into place, and the caps bolted and torqued up
click to enlarge click to enlarge

The inlet cam with new rotary seal and the (oops) oil bar in place
click to enlarge click to enlarge

And finally, the recalcitrant engine mount, after polite discussion
click to enlarge


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1523114
24/01/2015 22:28
24/01/2015 22:28
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Berlin
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Here is one of the original dodgy bearings, showing first the wear high spot and then the embedded swarf that caused it - that's been there 175k miles.

click to enlarge click to enlarge

Hmmm... tough little beasts, these engines!

Not a huge amount of work done this weekend, as I had to supervise Joe putting his other ramp up, but fitted the new cam - genuine NOS Fiat/Lancia Ricambi Originale laugh

click to enlarge click to enlarge

There was a little more valve seat wear on the exhaust so the gaps weren't as close as the inlets - they should be 0.50mm +/- 0.04mm. So after some careful measurement, out comes Joe's big box of shims, and the cam comes off again to replace bits. Two out of the eight shims were OK.

Code:
Valve   Pass  Block  Oversize  Shim  New shim
1a      0.35  0.40   +0.15     3.95  3.80
1b      0.35  0.40   +0.15     3.95  3.80
2a      0.35  0.40   +0.15     3.95  3.80
2b      0.40  0.45   +0.10     4.00  3.90
3a      0.40  0.45   +0.10     3.82  3.72
3b      0.45  0.50   pass
4a      0.45  0.50   pass
4b      0.40  0.45   +0.10     3.90  3.80


With the new shims in, all the clearances are correct at 0.5mm (3b and 4a are a little tight, but in specification).

One bit of terrible news. The makers of the OEM shims have kindly written their name on the side of the shim.

VOLVO! shocked


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1524769
08/02/2015 11:10
08/02/2015 11:10
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Berlin
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The end is starting to look as if it is in sight... I had hoped this week to complete the belt end rebuild, but found a couple of covers that were rustier than they looked at first sight, so they're on the pile to sand-blast and powder coat...

Here are some parts that have been blasted and powdercoated - these should last another twenty years. In particular, I wanted a number of external oil and water pipes protecting. The sump has also had some dents knocked out and been coated.
click to enlarge

Twenty years of tiny oil leaks add up to a layer of crud
click to enlarge

but after removing the seals for the balance shafts and the water pump
click to enlarge

it cleans up nicely - and the interior waterways are not significantly rusty, which is nice.
click to enlarge

The balance shafts have a ball-bearing race, a sealing o-ring, and the rotary seal. The o-rings had set hard and weren't sealing properly, and weren't in the seal pack, but Joe had a couple. Replacement requires lots of lubrication and a hammer to drift the chamfered ring over them.
click to enlarge click to enlarge

And with the gasket and new seal in the housing, refitted. A zizz gun is required to undo and do up the drive belt toothed wheel; on the front drive it was so tight it required a long lever and a pair of mole grips.
click to enlarge


Meanwhile, in the engine bay (from which the slam panel has been removed for blast and coat), horrors are revealed... most of this is scab and will be sorted out with a wire brush, kurust, and paint, but some will need cutting out and replacing. This is under the washer water bottle, and the driver's side chassis leg.
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Passenger side is a little better but there's a hole behind the suspension leg, where the subframe bolts up.
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

The engine bay on the whole though is dirty but in good condition - the benefit of gentle oil leaks!
click to enlarge

And finally, some of the bits that have been removed, and some that will be going to the powder coater.
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Last edited by barnacle; 08/02/2015 17:06.

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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1525722
14/02/2015 21:41
14/02/2015 21:41
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Berlin
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Woohoo! It's time to put stuff back together.

First, twenty year's worth of crud and rust is blasted off the engine:
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Guess the engine number: I think 149852 but there might be another digit between 1 and 4.
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Red enamel is probably worth at least thirty horsepower...
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Engine mount and oil filter block back on. Any idea why there might be bendy join between the two halves? Can't see any obvious reason for it.
click to enlarge

The two blasted and powder coated shields go back on, along with the new water pump and carefully cleaned oil pump (with a new crank seal).
click to enlarge

And then the cambelt, after a little swearing (loctite applied to the crank and balance shaft end bolts).
click to enlarge

So that's the engine coming along nicely. Meanwhile, Joe has been poking around in the engine bay. The idea is that this will have new metal let in, so we want to find the damage now so it can be repaired properly while we have access. First three pictures from the passenger side; last two from the driver's. Who would have thought twenty years ago that a Fiat could have this *little* rust after twenty years?

click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1525799
15/02/2015 15:38
15/02/2015 15:38
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Berlin
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The original engine number was 1653491, so it looks as if there should be another digit in there.

I had a brilliant idea to trawl through eper to see if I could find something matching, but it seems the original chassis number doesn't exist...

Last edited by barnacle; 15/02/2015 15:48. Reason: you don't exist - go away!

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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1525802
15/02/2015 16:13
15/02/2015 16:13
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Berlin
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click to enlarge

I played around with the gamma on the full sized image. I think the number looks most like 1649892 - which at least looks as if it matches the sequence; slightly older than my original engine.

Edit - the numbers above are 836A3.000 which correctly identify the block as a non-turbo twin cam originally fitted to an NA coupe.

Last edited by barnacle; 15/02/2015 16:20.

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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1526713
21/02/2015 18:40
21/02/2015 18:40
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Berlin
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Just this, today. It's (deliberately) not a mirror finish, just looking a bit better than when it came out of the Fiat factory. Still needs the lettering infilling and then lacquering.

click to enlarge


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1527812
01/03/2015 00:17
01/03/2015 00:17
Joined: Dec 2005
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Berlin
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It's starting to go back together. The holes in the front chassis arms and suspension towers have been cut out and new metal let in:
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

After that, the loose paint and surface rust was wire brushed off - just a couple of hours and four charges for the wire wheel.
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

The whole area was degreased with POR Marine Clean diluted 5:1, which turns oil and grease into soap, rinsed down, dried, and then all the visible rust treated with POR metal ready brushed in and left to dry.

While it did that, I turned the engine over and finished the bottom end build - refitted the oil pickup, the gearbox rotary seal carrier, and the sump - new gaskets and rotary seal, of course. Care needed with the seal carrier since there is enough movement on the bolts to position it half a millimetre or so out of line, which will allow a leak. The sump gasket compresses as it's fitted, so you need to tighten things up two or three times.
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

Finally, back to the body: POR15 painted over all the new metal and converted rust. It's bloody expensive but it goes on a lot better than Hammerite and it has a hell of a reputation - we shall see. (I'm trying to organise an FCCUK discount with the supplier).

click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1528692
07/03/2015 23:52
07/03/2015 23:52
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Berlin
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Decided that there was rather more surface scab in the engine compartment than was immediately obvious last week, so got busy again with the clean/rust bust/POR15 again. It would be a shame to spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar, as they say... (We also found a couple of places on the undertray which needed attention, but we can't do them until we can get the car on the ground since we need to wheel it to open the door so the carpet above can be removed... if it's not one thing, it's another.

click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

The author as the architect of his own misfortunes!
click to enlarge

Back to the engine. The balance belt is on, with the correct phasing (see the marks) for TDC. Keep an eye on that water pump... the stay bracket is fitted, along with the first shield, which was a little tricky since the holes didn't want to line up.

click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

The finished cam cover, along with sundry pipework (powder coated).
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

The belt end is now finished... or is it? The power steering bracket would not fit over the water pipe, which is attached to the water pump, and which for some reason was about four millimeters out of position. Reversion to an older plastic impeller type resolved the issue - one to complain about to the supplier. The second photo is a little unclear, but shows the correct position for the water pipe. With that pump fitted, the shield, which bolts onto one of the outlet pipe bolt, dropped straight into place...
click to enlarge click to enlarge

The steering pump fitted, and the ICV, and then we're ready for the clutch, right?
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

Well, we would be, if only we had the advertised release bearing. Look at what's written *under* the 'three part clutch kit with bearing' label... not a happy bunny, and rude phone calls will be the order of the day on Monday.
click to enlarge

So the engine has gone to bed for a couple of weeks, and we finish with some curious cut-off parts on the front frame. It's been noticed before that this chassis is very early, and it looks as if someone in the factory changed their mind about something...

click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1530906
21/03/2015 23:52
21/03/2015 23:52
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Berlin
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After some persuasion ("You should have told us within ten days") the supplier delivered a replacement clutch release bearing, and with a new input shaft seal, Joe's got the gearbox finally on the engine.

He's also been busy replacing the brake lines with shiny new cupro-nickel lines:

click to enlarge click to enlarge

Then the engine and box goes back in the bay:
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

The bolts holding the subframe up were a little thinner than they should have been, so were replaced:
click to enlarge

The plumbing around the thermostat is installed:

click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

Then the heat exchanger, alternator, and associated wiring:

click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

Essential earthing points:
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

The idle control valve (ICV) and wiring
click to enlarge

Four into two into one (shame we accidentally powder coated the heat shield... oh well.)
click to enlarge

And the clutch slave servo - bolted in on a 16NA. We'll be making a single braided pipe from the master to the slave, given the difficulty of obtaining either new slave hard pipes or pipes to make as new.
click to enlarge

The powder coated radiator support bar, the radiator, and we're good to go.
click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge

Filled the gearbox, the engine (using a cheap 10W-40 for the first thousand miles or so), and the cooling system.

Time to see if it starts. First, prime the oil; plugs out and the injectors disconnected, and let the engine turn over on the starter for a couple of minutes. This isn't quite fast enough to maintain a pressure indication on the gauge, but ensures that the oil gets to everywhere it needs to. Checking through the filler hole shows the oil is getting pumped around.

Plugs in, connect the HT, and the injectors. Does it start? No.

Investigate... no spark. Some muppet has inadvertently connected the spark coil to the sidelight cluster loom. Oh well.

Now does it start? No.

Hmm, perhaps we got the fuel go and return lines the wrong way round? No... ah, wait, petrol isn't coming out of either pipe and we can't hear the pump.

Turns out some *other* muppet has removed the inertia switch connector. To access this one need only open the door, but the two-post lift won't allow this, and as we haven't put the front wheels on, we can't drop it off. So there is much amusement as we take turns dangling in through the driver's window and try to connect this plug and socket, upside down and legs waving. Eventually we succeed.

The pump priming now works, and makes horrible noises as it blows air through the pressure regulator. After half a dozen primes it runs quietly, so we try and start again.

Woohoo. It runs, and the pressure is right where it should be. Which is nice.

Last edited by barnacle; 22/03/2015 00:19.

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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1531026
23/03/2015 11:20
23/03/2015 11:20
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Berlin
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Things not photographed but also done last week:
  • new steering rack gaiters fitted
  • new UJ gaiters on both driveshafts
  • cupro-nickel brake lines front to back, with joiners under the passenger footwell for future use
  • new front shock absorbers


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Re: Barnacle's Olde Original 16v Fettle [Re: barnacle] #1531912
28/03/2015 23:11
28/03/2015 23:11
Joined: Dec 2005
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Berlin
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We're getting there... let's start with an end view of the gear box, with the new plumbing and (this side only) a replacement OEM wishbone.

click to enlarge

One of the nastiest stickiest jobs on a car is changing the CV joint gaiters. It's *much* easier if (a) the correct gaiters are provided, (b) it's not necessary to take the joint to bits to clean it out of dried grease, and (c) the splines aren't rusted into the joint. It turned out though that the shaft with the rusted splines had some nasty wear at the other end, so a s/h from Joe's collection went in on that side.

click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge click to enlarge
It turns out that the cage and balls don't go back in the place you might expect them to, because the slots in both parts are sloped in odd directions...

The powder coated slam panel has all its bolt holes drilled out (Joe broke one of my drills last time, and I broke one of his this time, then he broke one of his, so I suppose I have to break one of mine to equalise...) and the crash foam fitted - all holes with the proper bolts.
click to enlarge click to enlarge

The hubs, shafts, brakes and discs reassembled and fitted.
click to enlarge click to enlarge

It is important to ensure that when lifting an engine, appropriate techniques are used:
click to enlarge

Finally, it's pretty much all back together:
click to enlarge click to enlarge

Still to do this week:
  • Tighten a couple of 'weight on wheels' nuts and bolts
  • Fit the clutch pipe (a single flex pipe by Pirtek is being used
  • Bleed clutch and brakes
  • Install battery tray and ancillaries
  • Install undertray
  • MOT
  • Wheel alignment


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