I'm on 205/55 which is a touch oversized (195/55 standard). Means the speedo is almost accurate instead of reading fast.

Barnacle may I ask how much you paid for the blasting and powder coating of the items you took a photo of? I am about to do the same (with many of the same parts) and wanted to have a ball park figure in mind when I shop around. Thanks

You have PM...

ePer can give you the original engine number if you input the chassis number

The original number I have; this engine was swapped in thirteen years ago and this is the first time I've seen the number at all...

Ah yes I forgot you had had a replacement engine. But if you had the chassis number of the donor car? Or isn't it recorded on the V5?

Sadly, I don't; just the receipt for the engine.

Coming along very nicely.

Second digit of your engine number appears to be a zero.

As the sole owner, do you feel that the fact the cars were galvanized created a false sense of there being no need for a rust prevention treatment?

I agree the cars have lasted well compared to earlier Fiats and Lancias, my year 2000 Alfa 145 rusted like a Fiat from the seventies.

Only the bodywork was galvanised, not the chassis

As Alexis says. There was a (from memory) nine or twelve year bodywork guarantee - provided that you had the yearly inspections and made any advised 'corrections' at no doubt exorbitant prices.

The rust I've found on this one, so far, and without any rustproofing beyond what the maker did, is a couple of small holes in the floor, the boot seams, and what you see in the fettle thread.

It was certainly not an issue in what most would have considered a reasonable life for a car - ten years or so.

I`m sure I read key body panels and 9 year warranty.

My car has galvanized front drop legs.
Also in front of the open box section at the rear which becomes the jacking point, there is a vertical panel which is galvanized.

Generally I don`t buy a car until it is a least ten years old. I want the LE to outlast me and have begun by drenching seams with FE123 which will be followed with epoxy coat or Dinitrol wax.

I`ll save the jokes for my thread but a pattern seems to emerge with the area of corrosion by the forward subframe mount always being worse on the off side. I think this is because this may be the most stressed corner of the car and the subframe is trying to twist the chassis rail during cornering.

As you mentioned a let in repair i`m keen to see the end result. I have a notion as to how the repair should be made which is not how an MOT prep. person would do it. I don`t know that i`m right though and will try to get a picture of my rusty hole tomorrow and post with my thoughts - as I also see some strengthening options which hard driven cars may benefit from.

The repair is largely in the hands of Joe's welder - but there will no doubt be pictures.

The drop legs don't appear to be galvanised, though they are in somewhat better (though still rusty) repair than I might have expected.

I think looking at this the car was all galvanised,

http://www.polak.ch/coupemanual/bodywork%20general.htm

Listed are single and double galvanised parts, sure enough the single galvanised bits like the rear chassis and front cross bar are the bits that suffer on most coops. lower bits suffer from road salt and grime like any other car.

Poor seam sealing is a massive issue that really marks the reputation of a car that is really quite rust proof.

Yes - looks like single galvanised means 'just one side'. Which is a bit odd, as I thought it was an electrolytic dip.

By the way - don't sand through to the galvanisation; zinc dust is a *nasty* poison...

Not sure of the finish you want Neil but came across these only the one side though! also not sure if this is the part in your pictures or if its the bit nearer the front?

Ebay

I think we'll probably mend in place, thanks. Interesting find, though - I think it's upside down in the picture (but I am by no means sure!).

I did query it said it was for the left side but im sure thats right side?

It is the drivers side (if the picture's to be believed), and it's just the section forward of the strut.

Btw the car is coming on really well, Barnacle. It should land ready for the good weather at this rate.

A good days work today Neil, and I'm very impressed with the POR products you purchased

Yeah... took a panscrub under the shower to get that splash off my face

I thought they were freckles

Not any more, they're not!

Fantastic work Neil. Did you fit the special flanged pulleys to catch a rogue belt or are they only for 20Vs?

20V only. The 16V has a thinner cambelt which is more fragile - and I wouldn't leave more than 36k miles - but is not prone to eating the aux belts in the way the 20V is.

At the same time as I was getting my hair full of rust and ancient paint, Joe did the cambelt on the Bravo diesel. That had 73k on it (should change at 72k) but it's the same width as the 20v and to be honest it looked like new. No visible wear, no cracking... I use it daily though, and it was under two years old (!) which probably makes the difference.

Verry impressed of the work that,s done on youre coupé Neil

Non nom nom nom.....

I think you'll find that 'planking' is quite the in thing amongst the youth of today.

btw... excellent planning; removing that connector *two months* ago just to set up for a photo opportunity this weekend!

We're nearly ffinished, whoop

That we are. Got an earbending about 'you said this would be three weeks' on the way home last night!

There are 7 days in a week which works out at 21 days