okay , with my trusty sidekick , I got about installing the discs/pads :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/NewTarox3.jpg

After installing it , looks like this :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/NewTarox5.jpg
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Basically , the job is pretty easy for DIY , you just
need to be methodical. Brakes are important.

Start with , the obvious by jacking up the damn thing :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Tarox1.jpg


Then , get an assistant , like this one :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Tarox2.jpg

The stock set looks like this :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Tarox3.jpg

Disconnect the pad-wear connector :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Tarox4.jpg


Undo the two big bolts that hold the caliper to the hub. You can use the same tool that undoes the lug nuts of
the wheels in your stock toolkit :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Tarox5.jpg


Then undo the two disc retaining pins :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Tarox6.jpg

Remove the disc , don't allow the caliper to hang free ,
do up the two big bolts temporarily :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Tarox7.jpg

With a suitable big spanner, lever the 4 pots into
their calipers to prepare them to receive the new
pads. Lever carefully , don't allow any of the pots to
come out ....

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Tarox9.jpg

Punch out the two pins that hold the pads and remove
the pins and also the pad retaining spring clip :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Tarox10.jpg

It'll look like this , ready to receive the new pads :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Tarox11.jpg

Install the new pads and punch back in the pins
and remember to put back the retaining spring. The new
Tar-ox pads (113 compound) were a very very tight fit
into the calipers. Their edges needed grinding off with
an angle grinder to fit properly. Too tight pads in
the calipers will result in seizing.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/NewTarox1.jpg

install the new disc. Rub the disc surface with
some thinner/petrol to remove the preservation material.

Remember to tighten everything , twice , then check again.
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Report.

Went to test the car. The brakes are great , noisy.

A very big improvement on the stock discs and pads.

But , I am letting it slowly break in now , so , more detailed notes later on.

The discs LOOK great !!

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/NewTarox9.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/NewTarox8.jpg

]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/NewTarox7.jpg]

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BTW , whilst I was poking about there , I notice
that the little bolt that holds the base of the
g/box dipstick tube was loose (ie , about half
out already) ..... so this accounts for the small
g/box oil leak I've been having for a while.
Something for y'all to check out if you're
getting a small leak from the area of the
g/box oil drain bolt area.

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Warning For Braided Hose Users :-

You would have noticed that there are these rubber
donuts that are attached to the braided hoses :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Tarox4.jpg

These rubber - donuts are very important because of
the very inflexible nature of the braids , they must
never (NEVER) rub on anything there. The donut is there
to prevent contact. If not , the hose will eventually
FAIL and the results can be catastrophic.

Hope that this will be useful.

Cheers.

I don't understand why the images are not appearing.

it works fine at our local website for Coupes ....

ah.

You need to post them as URLs, as the mods have disabled images on the new Forum for the time being .

Phil

why ?

its remote linked anyway?

Quote:

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If not , the hose will eventually
FAIL and the results can be catastrophic

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Damn right - my 'Y' fronts were beyond repair (both times)

Good one pistole, so whats next?