J, its only 268 or 272 degrees BTDC if you mount the trigger wheel that way. Otherwise it is like mine is 88 deg

You will need a sub-loom if you do it properly that plugs between the OE socket and the aftermarket ECU.

If you unplug the CODE fuse the fans stop working Even though the CODE box is redundant.

I think best way would be:
- keep the original ECU, if you have a good mapper and you don`t want to change anything more...
It is a good ECU - you don`t have any problems with the fans or the clima etc...
Moreover it is capable to adapt bigger injectors and even to use a bigger AFM (you have to use another housing, only: 95mm is enough for about 450HP)
For this you need a really good mapper!!!
- take a Motec (if you have enough money): there is a lot of experience, it is one of the best aftermarket ECU`S.
- take a KMS (if it should be cheap and simple): this was my choice. It is not as good as a Motec, but it is enough to get a "good running" engine.
Moreover the installation is quite simple for a experienced man and it is very very easy to program.
Only problem: you do not have as much outputs / inputs as a motec has. Here it is quite restrictive!

I don’t understand what you mean? The standard wheel is 60-2 so:
360 ÷ 60 = 6º per tooth
There are 45 teeth before TDC so 45 × 6 = 270º BTDC
As I never moved/changed the standard trigger wheel how do you get 88º BTDC?



Or you can just cut and wire to the aftermarket plug.



Yes but you can just use one the AUX’s with a separate relay to control the fans.

How many people are running near 400bhp on the motronic? IIRC some ppl are confident enough to run this without a wideband lambda as insurance.

Regarding the adaption issues, someone correct me if I'm wrong but if its adapting the fuel:

a) There's a problem needs fixing
b) Its on closed loop - so if it over-corrects it will swing back again. Thought the corrections might be too 'chunky'.

However, if its applying a correction which is affecting the open-loop maps then we would need a wideband to pick it up.

(Incidentally, remapping the motroinic wtih a MAF that can measure the entire range of flow for a given application ought to help here)

Ok - its never going to have all the abilites of a motec - but I don't think there's a strong reason to ditch it just cos you're running reasonably high power. Or has someone had real problems with the motronic caused by its limitations (rather than dodgy remap etc)?

You are thinking about only the wheel not the phasing. The phase signal is offset.

I don't understand what you mean would you care to explain in more detail?

The crank position fires offset to the phase sensor. It isn't just the 60-2 you need in your maths. That's one of the reasons why some ECUs struggle with the engine and need a different (more simple) trigger wheel that is then in-phase between crank and phase sensor signal. Like I think Rob uses on his DTA as an example.

If your thinking of changing your trigger wheel you might as well put the money towards the Motec. It's not a 5 minute job!!!

John

The added trouble was that DTA doesn't use the cam sensor on 5 pots.