has anyone tried dynamat or noise reduction materials/foams in their coop. has it made any difference?

redd

Bunflash on here has,the faster he goes the quieter it gets

I have done it and it makes a big difference, kills a lot of road noise.

Bockers, where did you put it and what did you use ?

Under the rear benches seems one place, and behind the rear seats as well ? Any recommendations on places to stick the stuff.

You can put the sound deadening everywhere. I'm planning

Inside Doors
Boot floor
Boot sides
Boot lid
Under reat seats
Under carpet
Under headlining

In that order, (easy->hard)

I have done

Under Headlining
Boot Floor
Tailgate
Rear 3/4 panels
Doors
Under Carpet.

Its made the car alot quieter at all speeds, however it probably has made it weigh about 2 tons.

I have done as Warney has said, even did the spare wheel bay But yet to do the roof and under the carpet.

Doors were easy and i did outer and inner skin. The rear quarter panels are a doddle too as is the boot lid.

Bought 30sq ft or edead from ebay, still have some left.

Remember that covering 50% of the panel gives 90% of the benefit, so I did lots of squares of the stuff.

And after you've done the doors you'll actually enjoy shutting them, they sound so much more solid.

Roughly how much would you need to do the doors, boot, and backseat area?

ive done the boot floor before in another car and it didnt give any noticeable improvement. bear in mind that there's usually already a layer of rubberised sound deadening material on the boot.

also did the roof on my 156 which already had a few small strips of sound deadening material from factory. i pretty much dynamated the whole roof - no difference.

im also thinking under rear seat is a waste of time as the fuel tank is there already.

thinking of doing the floor, doors, rear 3/4 panels and boot lid.

redd

I reckon Redd is probably right. Most of the road noise surely comes from the floor, doors, rear quarter panels and also from the bulkhead area. Sounds logical.

Redd, think you will find doing the door will give the most noticeable difference. Just wondering if its worth forking out on dynamat or is regular flashing tape suffice..?

that's what I love about ICE, 99% of the forum is based on how to get more performance from a 20VT - yet the ICE section is more concerned in weighing the car down!

But then we enjoy the car more in traffic jams.......

On the subject of sound deadening, you can save a lot of $$$ by using roof flashing tape (I used to get a big roll from B&Q), although I'd recommend using a heat gun (i.e. paint stripper) to heat each strip/square up before applying it, and it'll bond so hard it'll never come off! Just be careful not to burn yourself, and don't heat it up too much, and you'll be fine.

Just applying the stuff cold is the biggest mistake you can make, any condensation - or in cold weather and it can come off. Even if it's not 100% bonded onto the surface, then you're not getting the full value of it.

Hmmm..if it does the job then think i'll head to B&Q tonight

it certainly does the job, Gouki on here used dynamat/brown bread on one door on one of his old cars, and used the B&Q flashing tape on the other one and asked me to see which door I thought was better. After plenty of knocking on the doors (probably denting them in the process) and listening to the sound from each door, I concluded (without knowing which was which) that the door with the flashing tape was better!(it resonated less, and had a deeper "thud" when knocking it). And you can line the whole panel with it because it's cheap.

It is slightly thinner than dynamat, but then even using twice as much of it sill still probably cost 25% of using 1/2 the dynamat. Per sq inch it's lighter also.

thanks for the tip simma! ill see if i can get roof flashing tape here.

im not too fussed about weight. a box of dynamat weights 10kgs top. if i need the extra milliseconds ill empty the washer fluid and run with a half tank. and head to the gym - i weigh a fair bit.

besides, the coop is a turbo. ill dial up another 0.1 bar of boost and the weight gain is irrelevant. but the comfort from reduced road noise for a daily driver makes a huge diff.

redd

Warning: roof flashing tape stinks! (well the stuff I bought does :)). Although I am reliably informed that the smell goes away....

Why carnt you all use normal car dead sheet? Super cheap, self adhesive and exactly what all manufactures use as needed.

Can you be more specific, google brings up nothing.

Ill take some pics of what we use. Not sure how thick dynamat is etc but this stuff ought to do the job. Sticky backed too

May only be available to trade not sure. Ill get some details tomorrow.

Thanks.

Group buy !!!

flashing tape is just bitumin tape, and it's adhesive on one side. It's used on roofs.

Is that similar to the stuff you're talking about carl?

The 3/4 rear panels do the most in proofing, huge difference! Vital for a great sound.

This pic shows mine:
http://sfk.ibk.se/forum/attachment.php?s=6a33da72e0dbaa6577e4504e57377e14&postid=82612

I also proofed the doors, less space there to do anything though.
Good quality velour mats (also in the luggage) helps a lot too!

had a look at the doors today. how do u get dynamat inside the doors without ripping off the white plastic sheeting that prevents water from getting into the car?

redd

you peal it away carefully and re-attach. Quite easy in the summer but in the winter you may well rip it

I did my doors the other day with flashing tape..including insides of the door.

Redd, to get access to the inside of the door, you have to gently pull back the adhesive part of the sheet. There should be enough sticky residue remaining on it for you to resecure the sheeting once you are done.

How does the price of these compare to other stuff available/flashing tape?


sound deadening pads

Hey Paul..the link doesn't seem to work

Nevermind ..found it..
I'm not too sure how these would perform but seems quite expensive for the size you are getting. Flashing tape is loads cheaper but you would probably need to use more layers of tape in order to get the same performance as that one or dynamat.

I spent about £7 on a roll of flashing tape and used the whole roll for 1 door. Thats with me applying about 3 to 4 layers of it.

Kelv, not trying to be funny but that is just overkill and is likely to cause you issues in the future

The whole theory of sound proofing is to change the frequency at which the metal panels resonate. You can achieve this with a single layer and by only doing 50% of the panel.

I'm sure Barnacle or Bockers did a good write-up on this recently.