Im on the way to tweaking my coop,

The list that i have to do includes:
GTiR Turbo
FMIC
GTEC 2 Chip
GReddy EBC
RR setup
and some minor cosmetic changes and body work to get sorted.

I started this on sunday, i managed to remove the turbo and manifold, i think that hardest part was removing the undertray, i am suprised how easy the coop is to take apart.
but yet have to see how easy it is to put back together
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j249/Dan_V6/DSCF1702.jpg

I found that the manifold had cracked in the usual place on the 5th branch and also the gasket had perished on the 5th branch, i think this is what was causing the irratic idling and power loss.
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j249/Dan_V6/DSCF1701.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j249/Dan_V6/DSCF1697.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j249/Dan_V6/DSCF1696.jpg

There was one point that made me laugh, when i removed the SMIC there must have been a fosrest that fell out, it must have been 11yrs worth of dead leaves that was stuck between the intercooler and bumper. Any of you guys that are running the standard setup i think it would be worth removing the SMIC so see if there are any restrictions....
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j249/Dan_V6/leaves.jpg

There are a couple of pointers that i am after off you guys, im looking at replacing the clutch as i think once i get all this sorted the standard clutch would be no more. Would a GTA clutch and Walkers clutch plate be ok?

Also.... what would be the better air filter to use? i have a K&N on at the moment and a Apexi in the garage...

Does anyone have a similar setup that i could copy their Greddy setup from? to give me a starter...

GTA friction plate and walkers cover plate will be fine for that setup. A new GTA clutch would most likely also do the job.

I would go for the APEXI from those two filters.

You are going to have to setup the greddy yourself mate - dont try and copy someone else's settings as every car is different even if the appear to be the same on paper. Lots of people on here run them, so there will be a fair bit of help availiable when the time comes to set it up. If not then PM me.

Thanks for that Suba

I will give the Apexi filter a try, i should hopefully have it all on at the weekend dpending if i can get hold of the gasket.

Yeah i was going to try and set the Greddy up my self, if i get stuck will give ya a shout.

Just a little update to where i have got to, i have the turbo and manifold on complete with the intercooler
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j249/Dan_V6/DSC00239.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j249/Dan_V6/DSC00240.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j249/Dan_V6/DSC00241.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j249/Dan_V6/DSC00242.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j249/Dan_V6/DSC00243.jpg

There is one question i have got, on the SIP the two smaller hoses that are connected, have i got these right, they came off a single connection that had a Y piece connecting these together...
Also the remaining hole, is this supposed to be blanked off as i have bailys dump valve...

Very nice mate, you have got the SIP plumbed up rite all you do with the last one is blank it off if you have a baileys like you said.

thanks Gaz, i just have to find some hose and will use the bung i got with the dv fitting kit, i cant wait to get it on the road now

Just an update, she is now up and running it has really transformed the car....
the only bit that i am struggling with is setting up my greddy, i can get it to boost upto 1.3bar @ 4000 - 4500rpm then the boost drops as the revs increase, how can i get it to hold the boost at high revs!?

set gain 0.8bar (0.8bar atucator)
set 53%
gain 15%
warning 1.32bar
limiter 1%

set gain should be around 1.1.

Try a gain of 20%.

You'll have to reduce the set....

I would also have the warning at 1.5 bar as otherwise it may register overboost, and the limiter wants to be 5-10%. 1% wont reduce thing by much at all.

BTW - you should be able to hold an easy 1.1 bar at the redline on that turbo.

thanks suba :), i will give that a try next time i take her out.

with the settings i used she dropped to around 0.8 - 0.9 at redline...

i have got her booked in for friday for afr/fueling checks also a power run
i best get the boost controller setup.... any excuse for a good blast

Suba, I have a few questions with regard to this 1.1 redline boost with a T28 GTiR. I’m currently reaching peak boost of 17 psi (just under 1.2bar) at 3680rpm and it steadily trails off to 12 psi (0.8bar) at the redline.

To reach this 1.1bar redline boost, I understand that I would need an electronic boost controller such as a GReddy, Blitz etc. Now, if I had one of those fitted and then set max boost to 1.1bar and it reached that at 3680rpm for argument’s sake, would it then carry this boost right the way to the redline? Or would I need to be looking at 1.35bar max boost to get the full 1.1bar at the redline?

i get a similar prob as you trappy thats with a greddy, but i have not got the settings set right yet....

From a peak 1.3 bar midrange I got 1.05bar at 6500 rpm and that was with a leaking exhaust manifold gasket.

and that was before i ported the exhaust and turbo housings

cool least these figures will give me summat to aim for, i have had the turbo housing ported and a slight lip taken off the exhaust manifold too

You should be able to hold 1.1 regardless of the peak boost. A 0.8 bar actuator will help you with this, though it is easier if your peak boost is higher.

An electronic boost controller will not do the job for you - the rest of the setup has to support it - you can't force it to hold the boost. It will be more flexible than a manual valve though as you could screw up the gain which would result in the turbo increasing boost as you go up the rev range to the point where the turbo etc. can't support it - at this point the boost would fluctuate as the controller tries to do its thing but can't physically manage it.

I could hold 1.15 bar redline without even trying on a GTIR.

With that turbo you should hit max boost around 3K rpm???? There is also no need to go over 1.3 bar as the turbo becomes inefficient and will just produce heat and wear out more quickly.

My boost graph is in the the RR section under the AFR thread I started.

What do you mean by the rest of the set-up?

i think that he means the setup of the boost controller and maybe the atucator on the turbo?! the have to be set up right to let the turbo hold the boost!?

Not really - I mean the whole mods list on the car, e.g. breathing (exhaust and induction), turbo choice, boost contoller setup etc. etc.

I'll give you an example: I stuck a bloody great evo FMIC on my car a long time ago now with the aim of running 1.3 bar+ on the standard turbo (which I now know first hand will only kill the turbo in a matter of months) . I could easily run this boost mid range using a PRV, but the added IC restriction killed the top end of the car - which would not produce more than 240bhp even when I upped the boost to 1.4 bar (actually it produced less than at 1.2 / 1.3 bar)

I thought that an EBC would help with this so promptly bought a greddy. No matter what I did with the settings the top end remained the same until increasing the gain further only resulted in wild fluctuations in the boost. On goes a GTIR which is capable of holding more boost - boom......extra 45 bhp and loads of boost at the top end.

ahhh i think im with ya now suba....

Me too. Here's my list of mods
T28 GTiR
Pro Alloy FMIC
Pro Alloy Straight induction (K&N 57i)
Pipecraft (Powerfiat's system) 2.25" exhaust
Pipecraft Decat

As I said, currently I'm set at 17psi on an Armval PRV and getting the following Boost Curve

Now, I'm soon going to come into possesion of a few different chips with different fueling maps and going to get it all checked out on the RR. Before I do this I want to clear up a few more things and I figure I might as well do it here as a few people are in a similar situation

Say I got my car set up perfectly in terms of AFR with one of these chips. It is making a nice 1.3bar peak boost and then trailing off to 0.9-1bar at redline (typical for a PRV, no?). Assuming my 'set-up' is capable of running 1.15bar at the redline, I would now opt for an EBC to help at higher rpm.

So, i get one of these jobbies, set it up, and bobs your uncle, 1.15bar at redline :D. Great, but would/could this now mean that the aforementioned perfect AFR would now be out? Would that 11.5AFR that made 0.9bar still be 11.5 @ 1.15bar on the redline? i.e. should I then get it RR'd after fitting the EBC?

Make sense?

On looking at that boost curve your spolling up fine. As a rule of thumb on your set up you'll gain 10bhp for every 0.1 bar of boost you can hold - so 1.1 bar will give you 270 ish. An ebc will certianly help you with do this.

Do you have an uprated fuel pump? The issue that you are going to have will be whether you can supply enough fuel with the standard fuel pump - what the chip is trying to supply will make little difference.

The more boost at the top end the more fuel needs to go in to match it....I would use a GTEC chip and then get the car mapped up rather than trying lots of different chips, as you could have the car running perfectly on one chip and then any changes that you make could throw the map out. The same is true of a custom map - which is why this should be the iceing on the cake once you have set the car up to achieve what you want in terms of performance.

Suba, here is a link to my original posting of my graphs. The BHP in that one along with the Boost as BHP@ wheels. You'll see in the flywheel graph that i'm actually making 277bhp@ 0.8bar bat the redline. So I could be looking at 290-300bhp?

I spoke to rog at length about my fueling issues and he seemed adamant that the fuel pump is not an issue with my car at the moment. He said that an uprated fuel pump should only be used when the AFR goes lean at the top end. This makes sense to me; my car is lean across the entire rev band and this points to an ECU issue.

That said, I do understand that if I increase my redline boost from 0.8bar to 1.1bar, then it may become an issue and then need an uprated FPR or fuel pump and possibly the wiring mod too.

The chips I will be using are being mapped by a friend based on my AFR results and factoring in a small exhaust manifold leak. He is doing them a little rich to allow me to run 1.35bar and fix my problem all at once. Will soon see how it goes

It won't be the ultimate fix in the long term but for now it is more than satifactory and will allow me to get where I want in terms of performance for the moment.

Thanks for clearing up those questions for me Suba

One final thing; Torque. I have transfered my RR graph data onto excel and set up a graph and can clearly see how closely Torque follows the Boost curve. When running higher boost, am I right to expect the engine to carry more torque a lot further up the rev band and how much more should I expect to gain from 1.35bar vs 1.2bar?

My guess would be that you will only really gain torque in the mid range. The bigger GT series turbos produce more bhp, but the torque is modest due to the way that they spool up + build the power.

300bhp with a good map and your mods is very achievable on that turbo - and make for a very good all round car.

I would doubt a standard pump could supply enough fuel for 300bhp. I would certainly not increase the fuel pressure on the standard pump, as you are still relying on the pump to fill the rail quickly enough. Another issue would be how much you trust a 10 year old standard fuel pump on a tuned car...

Good luck + let me know how you get on.

I took the coop out for a long run lat night and it felt really strong in fifth. I check the boost and it was making 18psi at 2,800rpm? Tried it again in 4th and rd, near enough the same (2,850 in 4th and 2,900 in 3rd).

The only thing that has changed since the RR session (when it made peak boost at 3,680rpm) is getting the exhaust leak fixed (Rog & Ruben tightened a few bolts on the manifold).

Could this lower boost threshold be due to this fix or is it more liekly that the turbo wa sunder less load on the RR and so made boost later?

i have just had a call from the guy at the garage, he said that the car is running v.lean low down and it is ok higher up the rev range, he says that a power boost valve might cure it.
would i be better of getting a power boost valve, 3.8bar fuel regulator or a Getec 2 hf chip?

That sounds weird. Lean at low rpm but ok at high on 1.3bar? I'd wait until you have a proper AFR graph before making any decisions about what to do next but it might be an idea to ask him what he is counting as too rich/lean.

The 20vT's AFR wants to be between 11.5 and 12. closer to 11.5 is safer but nearer 12 will yield more power. The guy at my RR session for example, told me that 12.5 was fine. It isn't on our cars.

ahhh right, when i go and pick the car up i will ask him, last time i spoke to them they couldnt do print outs because the printer was fccuk'd.
he should know what he is doing, he does allot of race tuning for cars but we shall see...

The guy at my RR said that all dyno runs made in his shop are recorded and stored on a harddrive so you can retrieve data at any point. It is a Dyno Dynamics machine but I'm not sure if they all do it tbh. Even if the printer wasn't working, in my case they could supply it at a later date so check to see if your guy's machine has this function too.

What power, bhp and boost did it make?

i dont think that this is a dyno dymanics rr...
he wouldn't do a power run as it was running 'lean', i might give him a tinkle and find out what the afr was, but he seems a bit argumentative...