hi.

I just bought this boost controller.

can someone here please advise on which hoses from the
EBV am I to connect to the solenoid unit and which
am I to plug up.

The accompanying diagram in the manual details
two types of setup (one where the
wastegate actuator has two ports , and the
other where the actuator has only one port).

its this one :-

http://www.greddy.com/images/PROB2.JPG

http://www.greddy.com/

http://www.greddy.com/prod_profecb2.htm

http://www.greddy.com/tech/PROFEC_B_SPEC2.pdf







thanks.
.

<img src="/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

on your ebv it has a blue dot thats the one from the actuator and the other is red thats from the turbo if u dont have the dots just follow the pipes then it will see where they go not sure on the greddy but red is boost (in) and blue is actuator (out) i think thats the right way round but the rest of the pipes on the ebv stay as they are the one on top and the elec conecter

Post deleted by pistole

okay , found this :-

http://www.bugone.co.uk/fiat/boost_analysis.htm

nice read and makes understanding the stock EBV and
fiat boost control system much easier.
.

so did you get sorted in the end pistole

yes m8 red boost in blue actuator out

thanks hoops

will do the install tomorrow evening and post up a
guide (hopefully with pics).

cheers.

Good stuff pistole, I'm going to be fitting an A-spec soon, so a guide would be very handy indeed

Got back from work and started on the fitting.

took me about 3 hours

but,

the results (as I test the car at 1 am in the
morning) are Fantastic ! Boost hold is very
very steady.

Well worth the money , tuning/setting is really
intuitive and easy to learn. Only two base
settings to get correct. With the LOW setting,
I think that you'll save loads on fuel bills
if you run minimal boost (eg , driving in bad
weather , etc) , thus leaving the HI setting
for asphalt eating.

And most importantly , my problem with a
fluctuating boost ( ie , before with the
stock EBV , I was getting boost levels
from .8 bar to 1.4 bar ) , is
now resolved .

I had taken loads of pics of the install-
its all a very fiddly job (made worse by the
total lack of space around the EBV area)
but anyone thinking of fitting one himself,
please try it , its well within the average
DIYer's abilities , me thinks.

Pics to follow shortly - I need to sort them
out and load them into photobucket.

cheers and many thanks to HOOPS on the tip
about which hose goes where.

no worrys glad you got it all done

Hi.

okay , the Profec is this one :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Profec1.jpg

I got the silver body one :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/Profec2.jpg

Locate the stock EBV (in front of batt) , which is held on
with a 10mm nut (undo nut carefully, don't drop it) :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC1.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC2.jpg

this is the stock EBV once its removed from car. notice the
blue and red markings :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC4.jpg


The original stud that hold the stock EBC is visible and
I used it to mount the new Profec's solenoid. It fits :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC6.jpg


This is the new solenoid unit :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC7.jpg

Make sure that you bolt up the two brass pressure nipples
securely. Remove ALL the plastic caps from the 3 ports in
the solenoid. If you using the stock internal wastegate,
use the COM and NO ports. If you're using an external w/gate
use the COM and NC ports.

Connect the BLUE pipe to the COM port (the blue pipe leads
to the w/gate actuator). Connect the RED pipe to the NO
port. Use a bit of vaseline on the brass nipples to ease
the hoses on (its very difficult - no space to work - and
the hoses are very short). Use the supplied hose clips to
secure the connections :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC9.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC10.jpg

Lay the solenoid unit's wire down beside the batt :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC11.jpg

Splice the fuel regulator hose and insert the supplied Y
piece (zip tie every connection) :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC12.jpg

Cut the Profec's boost feed hose and install the supplied
air filter. Small end towards Profec unit (its directional)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC13.jpg

I brought the hoses and solenoid control cable through the
door seal (I didn't have time to locate a proper firewall
port). The clear hose feeds my boost gauge :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC17.jpg

Lay the Profec's boost feed hose and solenoid cable down the
right side of the dashboard :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC18.jpg

Locate the +ve feed from the window switch. I was testing
and only had this motor thingy from one of my rc flying
wings. The wire you want to tap into is the LARGEST wire
at the end of the plug. Thats the switched +ve feed :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC19.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC20.jpg

cut the said wire and use a wire-block connector and splice
on the +ve feed for the Profec power feed cable :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC21.jpg

the -ve feed for the Profec can be tapped from the original
earth post near the fuel-cut switch just above the throttle
pedal :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC22.jpg

Lead the +ve feed from the side of the console towards the
ares where the Profec is to be mounted :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC23.jpg

I mounted it here using the supplied d-sided pad. Its a very
nice place to mount as its easy to access and is not visible
from the outside :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC24.jpg


going back into the engine compartment. reconnect the
original elec. plug onto the stock EBV and use a short piece
of hose and connect the blue and red port together and zip
tie them securely. You need to reconnect the EBV's elec plug
becoz if not , the ECU will record a fault :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC25.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC26.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC27.jpg


Use the strut bar to carry the Profec's boost feed pipe and
and also the solenoid control cable towards the entry point-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC31.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC30.jpg

Going thru the top weather seal :-

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/pistole/SBC32.jpg


Connect up the (1) boost hose to the back of the Profec unit
(2) the power feed and (3) the solenoid control cable.

Replace the window switch (check you don't have the switch
the wrong way round) - tidy up the wiring/hoses with zip
ties and remember to insulate the spliced wires for the
+ve power feed.

Cheers.

ROAD TEST
___________


okay , its like 1 am when I tested the car and there are
LOADS of crazy boy racers trying it on at every bloody
junction/light - nuts !

the settings are very easy to do.

you need to follow the manual carefully and setup the unit
in the sequence mentioned. The MOST IMPORTANT value that
needs to be set is the initial "SET" value which controls
what max boost level the unit will allow. With my current
mods , 10% SET results in .5 bar (just nice for the LO
setting).

About 40% SET results in a firm 1 bar of boost.

You really really need a good (and large) boost gauge to
be able to tune the unit properly. It can be setup solo,
just find a stretch of quite roads to test 2nd / 3rd full
throttle runs.

the other settings (ie , the GAIN and START BOOST) need time
for finetuning. If they're set too aggressively , then you
will get boost spiking and pulsing - lower them accordingly.

All in , its a very easy unit to setup and you get a very
secure boost hold and very smooth boost ramp up.

with the LO and HIGH settings , you can set a very mild LO
setting and save your fuel/mechanicals , leaving the HI for
fast road work.

Its a very nice thing to be able to control the boost from
the cabin , so , eg , when its especially hot , you can
dail in a very low boost level for safety.

hope this helps.

cheers.




EDIT : -

having driven it around a bit more today , the car behaves
like a big NA , the transition from off to on boost is very
even and power delivery linear.

a bit of a revelation this , compared to the Jekyll/Hyde -
on/off boost with the GTEC+stock EBV.

am very satisfied.

cheers.


.

cheers for your post man,
its realy very usefull

Really excellant guide pistole . I am expecting delivery of a Greddy profec B spec II next week and using your guide might even have a go myself.

hey , no worries.

I have benefitted and learnt so much from this forum
that any bit of help I can throw in , I will.

cheers.

Pistole, i was thinking of getting one and fitting it in the astray, how big is it, do you think it would fit? Also any chance of taking another pic of where you mounting yours as i can see it that well. Is it easy to tune from there?

Cheers,

Rocky, have a look in the group buy section for Greddy Controller Holder. JimO and GringoJimi were involved in getting holders made that replace the air vent by the drivers door. They are a fantastic price, look great and save the hassle of squeezing one somewhere else

Job done except for 1 final thing, I am having trouble locating the earthing point for the negative power cable (the black one). Does it have to go in the special earthing place that pistole talks about ? The thing is its not easy to see in the picture.

OK, I have wired everything up....but no joy with the Greddy. When I turn the key, the engine starts fine, but no display on the machine. It says to press and hold the select button for 2 secs to switch on, I have done this but still nothing.

My guess is I have gone wrong with the electrics somewhere, as I was not 100% sure about them as I was installing. I have connected the the red wire from the Greddy to the yellow wire which comes from my radio (it has '15v battery' written on the side of the wire) Is that right ? The reason I chose there is because I have spliced my ipod charger in to the same wire and it works fine. The black wire I have connected to the little panel above the bonnet release catch. It is grey in colour and has a bolt attached it with loads of wires coming out. I take it this is the earthing point I have just stuck the wire to panel with tape. I am thinking I may need to solder or something

Any help greatly appreciated

Mission accomplished

bump

bump

I'm gonna attempt to fit this today myself, can anyone tell me if it is essential I have a boost guage before I fit it, as I'm worried I may get half way through and realise I can't do it and be left with a car that doesn't work

Any advice is much appreciated.

Cheers

Dan

no - but you will have to get a feed from the engine bay to the unit for it to get a boost reading. Then you can use the greddy as your gauge.