I save it before the crash
I know it's not the best reading format, but I believe that some one could help put this with a "better image"
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Hanny
Can I put my bed here?
Reged: 05/07/2002
Posts: 7360
Loc: W Sussex Tuning Workshop - 20VT
#256053 - 02/06/2004 09:41 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
The information that has been posted should only be used as a guide,
these are approximations of set ups that have been either done or
used for testing etc.
Please only post if you can add any further information that can be
used to further this thread for reference purposes. How ever should
you have a question then start a new thread and all can ans or gain
more info.
Intercoolers:
FMIC = Front Mount Inter Cooler
S/WMIC = Side/Wing Mounted Inter Cooler
CC = Charge Cooler
The intercooler for the un-initiated is a radiator which cools
charge air in turbo engines. Turbo engines work (simply.) by forcing
extra air (with correct fuelling) into the engine. When the air is
forced at pressure it is compressed which imparts energy (in this
case heat) to the air. When air is heated it becomes less dense,
which means there are less molecules of its component part (Oxygen
being among them). Less Oxygen means less burn so Intercoolers are
used to cool the pressurised air and make it denser. More density =
more Oxygen =more Burn. (Very simplified!)
The efficiency of an intercooler relies on the following factors:
1) Frontal area.
2) Pressure drop across the cores (external and internal).
3) Road speed.
4) Air temperature differentials (external and internal).
Given that there are so many variations in size and efficiency. We
start with an intercooler with 50% efficiency. We will calculate how
much heat is being removed for a given mass airflow based on a boost
pressure ratio of 2 at 6000 rpm, using the same 2-litre engine. The
result will be used to compare against a water injection system.
Ambient air temperature is 25°C and the compressor exit temperature
is 124°C. At 50% intercooler efficiency (reasonable assumption as
both the engine and intercooler is operating close to their peak
flow limits), the temperature drop across the inter-cooler should
be:
(124°C - 25°C)/2 = 49.5°C. The final air temperature entering the
engine is 74.5°C.
Current Intercoolers/Options for the Fiat Coupe:
220 -250bhp - OE Fiat side mount IC
220 - 290bhp - Pace side mount IC
220 - 300bhp - Pace side mount IC and Charge Cooler (CC)
220 - 350bhp - Front mount IC
Boost up to 1.3bar OE Fiat side mount IC
Boost up to 1.6bar Pace side mount IC
Boost up to 1.8bar Pace front mount IC
Which Turbo – Which IC?:
Normal T28 Turbo - OE Fiat side mount IC
Hybrid T28 360 thrust bearing up to 60mm comp - Pace side mount
Roller bearing turbo up to 55mm comp - Pace front mount
Aquamist Water Injection System:
The water cools and increases the air density before the fuel is
injected into it. The inlet charge is, therefore, colder and denser,
which simultaneously helps control detonation and increase power.
Water is the best anti-detonate known. Its latent heat of
evaporation is over six times that of gasoline, making it ideal for
controlling peak cylinder temperatures that cause detonation.
The water injection only operates under boost conditions and only
when boost pressure has reached a level set to personal preference.
In my case the pressure sensor has been set to trigger the injector
pump at 10 psi.
Charge Coolers:
Charge Coolers allow you to cool the inlet/charge temperature buy
using air to water cooling, the CC heat exchanger can be placed
in-between the IC out let and inlet manifold, most common position
for the Coupe is to the right of the engine block. The pre-rad for
cooling the water is located at the front behind the grill. This is
used in conjunction with the IC.
Advantage of using a CC is because the heat transfer properties of
water are so much better than those of air. Moreover, the water rad
can be far smaller than an intercooler core of similar heat exchange
capabilities. This is because the specific heat of water is 4 times
that of air (4.2 kJ/kg/degrees instead of 1). Bearing also in mind
the volume of 1Kg of air (1 kg of water is only 1 litre) there is no
comparison really for a better material than water when it comes to
absorbing energy without raising its temperature. Aluminium, for
example is 0.94 and copper 0.4
Intercooler Sprays:
On very hot days, the intercooler core will obviously be quite hot,
and we know that it's impossible to cool the charge below that
temperature. In fact we can't really cool it even at that
temperature, efficiency can never be 100%
But if we get a bit creative with the cooling medium, we can go one
step further. A well-known technique is spraying water onto the
intercooler core. If the core is hotter than the water, then some
heat will be absorbed above and beyond that absorbed by the incoming
air cooling stream. However at high airspeeds water just won't stick
to the core's turbulators, so it won't do much for power.
The water needs to be sprayed as a fine mist - it will then be able
to stick on the core, having a better chance to absorb some heat.
The water injection nozzles have to be carefully positioned, too. A
spray that hits the middle of the core with the car stopped, might
only wash the headlight as the car is moving at 70mph.
Other cooling media have been tried during futile attempts of
further cooling down an intercooler. Even compressed CO2 is being
touted as the king of intercoolers sprays.
Reality is a bit more brutal though - with a good setup all you can
do is increase the intercooler's efficiency by 10%. That's not 10%
more power unfortunately, but 10% more of the extra power boost
given by the intercooler. So if the intercooler is responsible for
60bhp, it will now account for an extra 6bhp (while the spray is
operating). Kits spraying NO2 are more effective while running
(skyline and supra owners testify to this) but they are very
wasteful on gas, compared to the modest power increases. Nitrous is
meant to be injected inside the intake!
Not too impressive, but on a hot day every little helps!
John S – adds:
Quote:
I like this list Hanny has created, and I think it would be a good
idea to extend it to other areas, such as clutches you need to
have for a given state of tune etc. Although they often seem
somewhat overly arbitrary I like the idea of 'stages' where you
have some common nomenclature for a given state of tune, and
expected power. You could have something like
Stage 0 - Health Check - 220BHP
a)Get a proper engine health check including fuelling, and engine
performance as well as compression test each cylinder
b)Get car fully serviced, inc coolant changes etc
c)Base-line dyno figures
Stage 1 - Basic Preparation & modifications - 230-235BHP
a)Boost gauge
b)Boost control (PRV, PBV or electronic boost controller)
c)Induction modifications (eg. drilled airbox, intake cone etc)
d)Dump valve upgrade (stop turbo stalling
e)Crankcase breather filter (stop contamination of inlet tract)
f)Water wetter (increase reduction in water temperatures)
Stage 2 - Turbo ancillaries - 240-250BHP
a) 2.5", 2.75" or 3" exhaust (less backpressure)
b) Decat or sports cat (less backpressure)
c) Uprated side mount intercooler (lower charge temperature)
d)* Water injection (lower charge temp, more advance)
Stage 3 - Chipping - 250-270BHP
a) G-Tec chip (more power) or a Unichip
b) Uprated fuel regulator (more fuel pressure)
c)* Hybrid turbo - i.e. standard casing
Stage 4 - Improving ancillaries - 260-280BHP
a) uprated clutch
b) uprated fuel pump (More fuel)
c) lightened balanced flywheel
d) FMIC and/or chargecooler
Stage 5 - Uprated turbo - 280-300BHP
a) Uprated turbo (eg. the ball bearing range Barbz is doing)
b)* Cams
Stage 6 - Advanced tuning - 300-350BHP
a)custom mapping eg. Motec (tailor ECU to modifications)
b)Uprated fuel injectors
c)* Nitrous
d) Intercooler hard pipe kit
e) intake hard pipe kit
* would denote these are things you might want to consider but may
not be worthwhile
You might also have stages for non-engine stuff that should be
done with the corresponding tuning level, such as
Stage 0 - Health Check
a) Check wear on all suspension parts
Stage 1 - Basic Handling
a) Strut brace
Stage 2 - Stopping power
a) Uprated front discs and pads
b) Braided brake hoses
c) Bleed brakes and put new fluid in
Stage 3 - Suspension
a)* Lowered
b) Uprated dampers
c) Uprated bumpstops
Stage 4 - Advanced Handling
a) Uprated anti-roll bar
b)*Camber adjustment (if no negative camber provided by dampers)
Stage 5 - Dynamics
a)* lighter wheels
b) wider tyres (225 profile)
c)* 5mm hubcentric spacers (wider track for standard alloys only)
Stage 6 - Advanced suspension
a) coilover suspension
b) polyurethane dampers
Post Extras:
Hanny
Can I put my bed here?
Reged: 05/07/2002
Posts: 7360
Loc: W Sussex Re: Tuning Workshop [Re: Hanny]
#265463 - 23/06/2004 08:02 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
1) Dump valve - £80-£90
2) Sparco Strut brace. £50-£100
3) Moded airbox with upgrade pannel filter like K&N - £40
4) Boost Gauage (dampened) - £50-£80
5) Airfuel Ration meter - £40-£80
6) Upgrade cat back exhaust £270-£350
7) Cat bypass pipe or race cat - ££50-£290
8) Novitec chip - £110-£200
9) Bleed boost valve or Elect boost controller - £30-£475
10) Hybrid turbo - £450-£1200
11) Upgrade side mount or front mount intercooler - £200-£??
12) Upgrade water Rad - £300 ish
13) Performance exhaust manifold - £400-£900
14) Fuel Regulator upgrade £75
15) Upgrade brakes £250-£2500
16) Upgrade suspension - £260-£600
17) Performance head work - £500-£1500
18) Spoilers, skirts, rear valance - £200-£800
19) Larger wheels - £600-£2000
The list above is not set out in any perticular order but to give
you a very ruff idea of approx cost, makes and types would be down
to individual pref/requirments. If you have a search around the
forum then you will see feedback from people with relative makes and
what they think of them.
Would advise you to attend a few meets and see/hear them in person
as what may be an ideal mod for one might not be for you.
At the end of the day all froms of moding is a compromise in one
shape or form, if you wish to own a potencial classic then the car
should be keep in its orginal OE spec/standard.
--------------------
[Blocked Ads]
Post Extras:
Stefan
Growing up
Reged: 25/11/2001
Posts: 197
Loc: Finland Re: Tuning Workshop [Re: Hanny]
#268542 - 29/06/2004 07:12 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
I like to add d), a01) and a02):
Stage 3 - Suspension
a)* Lowered
b) Uprated dampers
c) Uprated bumpstops
d) Polyurethane bushes (Powerflex)
-----------
Stage 5 - Dynamics
a01) Adjustment of damper rates
a02) Adjustment of wheel pressure according to the given suspension
a)* lighter wheels
b) wider tyres (225 profile)
c)* 5mm hubcentric spacers (wider track for standard alloys only)
--------------------
20V Turbo -97 57tkm; Strut brase, Eibach springs, Koni dampers,
Powerflex bushes, Drilled airbox, PBV, Novitech chip, Ferodo DS2000
pads, Milltech cat back. Like to have Racelogic TC, Racing cat and
Plus Recaro seats
Post Extras:
Hanny
Can I put my bed here?
Reged: 05/07/2002
Posts: 7360
Loc: W Sussex Re: Tuning Workshop [Re: Stefan]
#275191 - 13/07/2004 07:33 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
How to do guides
Tuning:
20 Valve Turbo Tuning Work shop by Hanny
20 Valve NA Tuning Work shop
*NEW* fitting Koni shocks by Gurmon
Air/Fuel Gauge fitting by GrahamL
Fitting a Novitec chip
Boost Gauge Install I found it neater to route my piping through the
grommet for the bonnet release.
Strut brace fitting by James
Induction mod by James
Airbox modification (holes) by James
Airbox modification drainpipe by James
Cold air feed by James
Induction kit by James
Fitting a dump valve by James
Fitting a bleed valve by James
Fitting a front mounted intercooler by James
Blitz boost controller fitting and review by DoctorFrag
reducing overboost by craig
Fitting Pace Intercooler by Whittler and JaceyBoy
Fitting Evo Chip by Europa
Chargecooler Fitting guide by Graham L
Traction Control review and Fitting guide
Nomad A-pillar fitting guide by Windy Miller
antiroll bar and uprated radiator advice by Taz
fitting uprated fuel pump by Hanny
Fitting HID guide by Taz (not for amateurs )
Alloys that fit a 20vt
Post Extras:
Hanny
Can I put my bed here?
Reged: 05/07/2002
Posts: 7360
Loc: W Sussex Re: Tuning Workshop - 20VT [Re: Hanny]
#276212 - 15/07/2004 08:42 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
Fuel Pump Ref
One of the great benifits of modern fuel injection is the way its
closed loop fuel supply system works. With a closed loop system, the
fuel is pumped from the fuel tank up to the fuel rails (where the
fuel injectors are mounted) and then through a fuel pressure
regulator and, finally, what isn't used is sent back to the fuel
tank. With this type of system, you can run an oversized fuel pump
without the fear of fuel related problems. This allows you to buy a
fuel pump large enought to grow into, as well as one large enough to
offer an aditional safety margin.
The following chart shows the maximum horsepower potential of the
most common sized EFI fuel pumps. This isn't to say that these
figures are an example of what you should try to get out of each
pump size. These are only examples of the maximum that they are
capable of. For all practical purposes, if you are getting near the
maximum horsepower your pump can handle, now is definitely the time
to step up a size or two.
---------12 volts---14 volts
88 lph -- 222 hp - 267 hp
110 lph - 278 hp - 333 hp
155 lph - 391 hp - 470 hp
190 lph - 480 hp - 576 hp
255 lph - 644 hp - 773 hp
320 lph - 808 hp - 970 hp
As the previous chart has shown, voltage can greatly affect the flow
figures of a pump. To get a better idea of this effect, the
following chart shows the effective pump size as related to voltage.
One thing to keep in mind is that, as you raise the voltage to a
pump, you also reduce its life span. This is why it's best to get
the proper size pump as opposed to trying to get squeeze a little
extra out of a pump that's just not the right size.
---------12 volts---14 volts
88 lph - 73 lph - 88 lph
110 lph - 92 lph - 110 lph
155 lph - 129 lph - 155 lph
190 lph - 158 lph - 190 lph
255 lph - 213 lph - 255 lph
320 lph - 267 lph - 320 lph
One last thing to consider is that as you raise fuel pressure you
also decrease fuel volume. While every pump responds differently to
changes such as voltage, fuel pressure has the largest effect on
each pump. For this reason, it is very important to buy a pump that
will supply the volume of fuel needed at the pressure required for
your application. Understand that many OEM pumps drop off
dramatically as pressure increases, while other pumps, such as the
Vortech T-Rex, do a substantially better job at pressures of 80 psi
of more. Unfortunately, even the best pumps will still drop off
volume as pressure increases. For example, the very popular Walbro
255 lph intank pump supplies 255 lph at 40 psi, but drops to below
200 lph at 70 psi, and will go below 160 lph at 100 psi. While it
would be great to have a single chart to show these affects, it's
very tough to do so as each pump responds differently. The best
recomendation is to check with the manufacturer or dealer to get the
information on their pumps. Only this way can you be sure that you
are getting a pump that will safely support the horsepower you plan
to make.
Post Extras:
Hanny
Can I put my bed here?
Reged: 05/07/2002
Posts: 7360
Loc: W Sussex Re: Tuning Workshop - 20VT [Re: Hanny]
#289023 - 13/08/2004 08:01 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
Apexi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller Set-up procedure
Intro
The Apexi like most other boost controllers remove the boost/waste
gate operation away from the ECU, it replaces the Electronic Bleed
Valve (EBV). It will manipulate the trubo waste gate as to hold -
higher boost, pre-longed boost so that you get more effciancy out of
the trubo. The Apexi offers some additional features which are
currently only available on a motorsport replacement ECU which could
cost £thousands, the Fiat Coupe boost control facitlity (EBV/ECU)
provides limited boost in the first two gears, add this to the Visco
drive provides the driver with a reasonable traction control, how
ever when by passing the EBV the limited boost is no longer
available, the Apexi not only offers you to custom set you boost
levels in each gear - both -/+ but also gives the user ability to
set boost levels via RPM or throttle position. It will also offer a
host of other displays, memory playback and custom settings as
detailed below. The main feature of the Apexi is that it has a
memory self learn mode that allows it to self adjust to optimise the
boost/duty cycle levels. How ever note that the Apexi is calibrated
for use with Jap cars so the speed sensor will not show correct
speed in KPH, this will not cause a problem with use as it used the
speed reading to gear learn - only down side is that if you select
speed to see what you are doing it is not 'true' but then you have
your speedo anyway. Main thing to remember is that all cars are
diff, so you will have to set the levels to your own required
settings and of course relative to your mods/tuning, I have place in
Blue my figures levels but these are specific to my Coupe and may
not be right for yours - but it give you an idea
Apexi Functions/Menu's/Set-up's
On the Apexi there are 3 main menu's
1) Monitor - this allows you to pre-select up to 4 channels, each
channel will show the following:
Bst - boost in bar
Thr - throttle position
Rev - Rpm
Spd - Speed
Sol - solenoid signal
Inj - Injector cycle
You can see this values as a digital, anologe (dial)or graph
readings. Or activate a memory mode that records your sensor levels
such as boost, rpm etc etc. Its up to you to select what you want to
see on the display - I have just the Boost level and RPM - so 2
channel.
2) Setting - this allows you to enter one of three settings: A, B or
Off. The A/B setting will allow you to set the following modes:
Boost/Duty - Sets your boost and duty cycle limits I have A - 1.0
bar, 60% Duty. B - 1.3 bar, 85% duty
Scramble - this allows you to set a pre-determinded amount of boost
for time limit set by you, this is activated by a switch that you
have to purchase extra, if cruising and you come up against a car
that wants to have a go - hit the button and your off with what ever
boost you have set for what ever time that you have set. I have not
set this up as yet
Ne-Points - these are used if you wish to set boost levels according
to rpm level I have set - 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 3500, 4000, 5000,
6000.
F/B Speed - this is used to provides the Apexi unit a speed
feedback, 1 is slowest 9 the fastest - use this to either sort out
fluctuating boost levels or if the boost drops off. My settings -
1ST -3, 2ND - 3, 3RD - 4, 4TH - 4, 5TH - 4
Learn Gear - 'o' means it is learning the gear, 'X' means that it is
turned off. Currently mine are off but will reselect later
Start Duty - this allows you to adjust the amount of boost that you
get in each gear, you can reduce the boost to maintain grip in the
first gears and then raise the over boost for the upper gears to
give you more umph at top end. I have: 1st -20%, 2nd -10%, all
others @ 0%
3) etc - you imput the settings for your car ie.
Cyl = 5, Spd = 16, Thr = / (this is an arrow, same direction as this
slash) These are the setting I have entered
Gear Judge - this allows the Apexi to know what gear that you are
in, it uses a calculation of rpm and speed to establish this, you
highlight the gear then drive and select 'Next' for it to memorise
the reading/calculation. Each car will be diff so you have to imput
Grph Scale - this is where you put in what you want to see in the
graph mode in the monitor menu. Not really used this as yet
Sensor Chk - speaks for its self.
Initialize - this is the de-fault reset, it will reset all the
values to factorys original levels, how ever once pressed you have
to switch off the ingnition for it to complete reset.
ECU Wiring/Installation
I spliced only three wires into the ECU lume, I had to take the main
din plug apart to trace the pin wires as the colours have been
duplicated, I splice above the ECU:
Fm AVC-R = Purple to ECU - pin 6 = Rev Counter Signal.
Fm AVC-R = Grey to ECU - pin 53 = Throttle valve position sensor.
Fm AVC-R = White to ECU - pin 9 = Speed Sensor.
The other three wires from the AVCR = Red - power, Green and Black -
Earth was wired into the left elect window button for 12v and x1
earth. The other earth was taken to a chasis point.
(I took the power from an alt source as I was not happy with the
voltage going to the ECU, there are several power feeds going into
the ECU but the lowest one is +15/54 so decided to use a proven 12v
switched from the window button)
The cables were routed to the engine bay via the passenger side bulk
head, (you have to remove the wiper shield), I placed the pressure
sensor in the cavity next to the pollen filter and 'T'd into the
boost pipe to my boost gauge (which runs the same route).
The solenoid was placed onto the main framework where the EBV is
mounted, just to the left the is a 10mm hole which it was bolted to.
I fitted the grey plastic hose nipple to the solenoid so that I had
three hose attachment points. I fitted the grey plastic hose nipple
to the solenoid so that I had three hose attachment points.
Red hose to NO
Blue hose to COMM
top EBV hose to NC
Post Extras:
Hanny
Can I put my bed here?
Reged: 05/07/2002
Posts: 7360
Loc: W Sussex Re: Tuning Workshop - 20VT [Re: Hanny]
#291233 - 18/08/2004 09:14 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
Three Angle Seat head work
The head work includes removing the valve guides, chemically
cleaning and checking the casting, porting, 3 angle valve seats,
recutting the seats on the valves, skimming the head face.
The cylinder head is the most important part of the engine to get
right if high power output is the aim. Unless the head flows well,
the camshaft, induction and exhaust systems are limited in what they
can do. Modifying a head properly is part science, part art and
relies on flowbench development and experience.
3 angled seats are recognized to give better performance. Imagine
for a minute a tap running with water. Place a finger along side the
flow and see what happens, place two finger beside the flow and the
water splashed out towards the both sides at an angle of almost 90
degrees. This is how an angled seat acts toward the flow of gases
entering the combustion chamber. Place one angle, two angles, three
angles and the mix fans out filling the chamber more fully. Each
angle causes a small turbulence, a pressure differential, which
spreads the flow outwards. The profile of each seat is matched to
the valves used.
A 45 degree angle cut valve-
The valve seats have to be worked see fig 4 shows before- note the
ill fitting valve, fig 5 shows the new valve seat that has been
worked -
Post Extras:
Per
Forum = second job
Reged: 08/03/2002
Posts: 840
Loc: Gothenburg,Sweden Re: Tuning Workshop - 20VT [Re: Hanny]
#322881 - 21/10/2004 11:23 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
Here are 3 more:
Battery Relocation Guide
Brake Cooling Kit Guide
Air Intake Upgrade
--------------------
My Coupe
My Argenta
My wintercar..
Edited by Per (13/06/2005 10:44)
Post Extras:
James
This is my life
Reged: 06/08/2000
Posts: 2141
Loc: Hampshire, UK Re: Tuning Workshop [Re: Hanny]
#324107 - 23/10/2004 18:43 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
I've removed the coupe-sport site so the links to some of the guides
don't work. Kayjey has them on his site and they can be found here
how to
ta
James.
--------------------
James - coupe-sport person
Ex 20v turbo...Audi TT 225 Coupe...Golf GTI-Anniversary...MR2
Roadster
www.coupe-sport.com |
www.GTI-Anniversary.com Post Extras:
Ross_Stonard
Finding my way
Reged: 08/12/2004
Posts: 11
Loc: South Woodford London Re: Tuning Workshop [Re: James]
#355117 - 21/12/2004 13:13 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
i fitted a gtec chip not long ago and it made a huge difference,
held boost a lot longer. i then got my hands on a novitec chip.
installed the chip yesterday and i think somthings wrong, there
seams to be no boost at all, i still here the turbo spin up, so
thats ok. i checked all the pipes and there ok and so i'm a bit
stuck. how should the novitec chip feal? i seam to have no boost any
ideas?
Post Extras:
catman11
Really, I have nothing else to do!
Reged: 29/05/2001
Posts: 6334
Loc: Chungyland, Falkirk, Scotland Re: Tuning Workshop [Re:
Ross_Stonard]
#356455 - 23/12/2004 20:31 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
the Gtec is a safer version of the novitec do a search on it and you
will see what i mean, have you got a boost gauge ?? before doing any
mods you really should do some research
--------------------
Old, free and single ... well is 29 old??
yes i am actually getting younger LOL
OH !!!
VOTE FOR PEDRO!
Post Extras:
Jacey Boy
Forum Dinosaur
Reged: 05/11/2002
Posts: 9710
Loc: Blair's Fcuked Up England Re: Tuning Workshop [Re:
catman11]
#358985 - 02/01/2005 19:52 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
Quote:
the Gtec is a safer version of the novitec do a search on it and
you will see what i mean, have you got a boost gauge ?? before
doing any mods you really should do some research
Safer?, I have had my car rolling roaded with the Novitec twice on
1.4 bar and it has been spot on fueling
--------------------
VX220 Turbo BMW 328i Sport
Post Extras:
GrahamL
Ready for afterlife
Reged: 08/09/2000
Posts: 3211
Loc: Pothole city - Glasgow Re: Tuning Workshop [Re: Jacey
Boy]
#358990 - 02/01/2005 20:07 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
Safer from the point of view of less overboost so less likely to
destroy the clutch or blow a boost hose off etc..
Post Extras:
Paulw
Forum = second job
Reged: 11/02/2004
Posts: 785
Loc: UK, Somerset, Taunton Re: Tuning Workshop [Re: GrahamL]
#379702 - 06/02/2005 21:20 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
Just in case anyone wants a guide to fitting a Bailey DV26 (or other
dump to atmos) Dump valve - I have prepared this one:
DV26 Fitting Guide (Word Doc.)
Based on the original by James N.
--------------------
Paul
Sparco Brace, K&N + Airbox Mod, Powerflow Exhaust, DV26, otherwise
standard !
Post Extras:
johns
Ready for afterlife
Reged: 07/02/2001
Posts: 3871
Loc: Central Manchester Re: Tuning Workshop [Re: Paulw]
#457368 - 13/06/2005 09:23 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
Evo FMIC Fitting howto
some more pics
Since then people generally fit the hoses to the 'out' side of the
intercooler (intercooler-to-engine side) slightly differently. THey
send the pipe up on the inside of the member going from front to
back (you'll know what I mean when you have the bumper off)
Fitting the undertray is quite straightforward. I personally
wouldn't bother with the whole thing and would just keep the section
that covers the belts. That will in itself give you a performance
boost as the engine bay will stay cooler. But if you do want the
whole undertray you have to do the following
There is a central section on the undertray that goes upwards (you
will see which bit when you offer up the undertray to the car with
the FMIC attached).
The central section is shaped like an upramp if you like. You cut
around the three sides nearest the FMIC (I think, but check when
you're doing it) and then re-offer up the undertray. You should now
be able to get the undertray to screw on but the triangles will be
sticking out. That's all ok and you can either leave them as-is or
cut the triangles down. If you want a complete seal then make sure
the undertray is clean and gaffer tape it up!
The tray's made of something similar to layered carbon fibre so it's
quite messy cutting unless you use a decent blade.
--------------------
Torque Italia 2.4 20VT - 460BHP (420BHP ATW), 431lbs/ft torque @
1.25 bar boost
and a Fiat Stilo 2.4 20V Abarth
Post Extras:
BugOne
Enthusiast
Reged: 08/06/2005
Posts: 211
Re: Tuning Workshop [Re: Jacey Boy]
#485154 - 30/07/2005 11:25 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
Looks like no one has done one, so I'll contribute my bit.
Here is a guide to fitting an ArmVal BCV-11 PRV.
Armval_BCV-11_Guide.doc (Its a word document, so right click, Save
As.)
Now updated with advice from Cosmograph (ArmVal)
Post Extras:
Hanny
Can I put my bed here?
Reged: 05/07/2002
Posts: 7360
Loc: W Sussex Fuel pump voltage [Re: BugOne]
#561680 - 30/11/2005 08:55 Edit Reply Quote
Quick Reply
Quite a few Coupes have an inherent problem with voltage at the fuel
pumps, this was one of a few reasons why my engine ran lean and
melted a piston about 3 years ago. One of the contributing factors
was a fault with voltage drop at the pump – 9v in my case, ideally
it should be around the 13.5v mark.
Fuel Pump Ref
One of the great benifits of modern fuel injection is the way its
closed loop fuel supply system works. With a closed loop system, the
fuel is pumped from the fuel tank up to the fuel rails (where the
fuel injectors are mounted) and then through a fuel pressure
regulator and, finally, what isn't used is sent back to the fuel
tank. With this type of system, you can run an oversized fuel pump
without the fear of fuel related problems. This allows you to buy a
fuel pump large enought to grow into, as well as one large enough to
offer an aditional safety margin.
The following chart shows the maximum horsepower potential of the
most common sized EFI fuel pumps. This isn't to say that these
figures are an example of what you should try to get out of each
pump size. These are only examples of the maximum that they are
capable of. For all practical purposes, if you are getting near the
maximum horsepower your pump can handle, now is definitely the time
to step up a size or two.
---------12 volts---14 volts
88 lph -- 222 hp - 267 hp
110 lph - 278 hp - 333 hp
155 lph - 391 hp - 470 hp
190 lph - 480 hp - 576 hp
255 lph - 644 hp - 773 hp
320 lph - 808 hp - 970 hp
As the previous chart has shown, voltage can greatly affect the flow
figures of a pump. To get a better idea of this effect, the
following chart shows the effective pump size as related to voltage.
One thing to keep in mind is that, as you raise the voltage to a
pump, you also reduce its life span. This is why it's best to get
the proper size pump as opposed to trying to get squeeze a little
extra out of a pump that's just not the right size.
---------12 volts---14 volts
88 lph - 73 lph - 88 lph
110 lph - 92 lph - 110 lph
155 lph - 129 lph - 155 lph
190 lph - 158 lph - 190 lph
255 lph - 213 lph - 255 lph
320 lph - 267 lph - 320 lph
One last thing to consider is that as you raise fuel pressure you
also decrease fuel volume. While every pump responds differently to
changes such as voltage, fuel pressure has the largest effect on
each pump. For this reason, it is very important to buy a pump that
will supply the volume of fuel needed at the pressure required for
your application. Understand that many OEM pumps drop off
dramatically as pressure increases, while other pumps, such as the
Vortech T-Rex, do a substantially better job at pressures of 80 psi
of more. Unfortunately, even the best pumps will still drop off
volume as pressure increases. For example, the very popular Walbro
255 lph intank pump supplies 255 lph at 40 psi, but drops to below
200 lph at 70 psi, and will go below 160 lph at 100 psi. While it
would be great to have a single chart to show these affects, it's
very tough to do so as each pump responds differently. The best
recomendation is to check with the manufacturer or dealer to get the
information on their pumps. Only this way can you be sure that you
are getting a pump that will safely support the horsepower you plan
to make.
To test the voltage you need to check the voltage at the fuel pump,
to do this you can access the fuel pump via the boot compartment,
lift the carpet (top right corner as your standing at the back of
the car facing forwards.
See pic below:
When you lift the carpet you will see a black plastic round plate
held in place by screws – remove and you will see the top of the
swirl pot to the fuel pump. Use your voltage meter and find the
voltage reading. Check on tick over and then you need to check on
full boost with some one on the rear seat and the voltmeter passed
through the ski hatch.
A good way forward is to fit the fuel pump mod as described below:
John S’s fuel pump mod diagram:
Panik’s pic guide:
Quote:
top of the fuel pump with the plug removed (Black -VE Black/Purple
+VE)
The new earth connection
Earth wired up +VE in the boot just connected like this the
voltage went up from 12.5 to 12.7
All wired up
The connections to the relay
The new reading
The relay in place
Quote:
Another contributing factor was that I ran the EBV unchecked with
a Novitec chip – these have a well known problem with over
boosting – in some recorded cases up to 1.6/7bar – of which the
standard set up coupe and along with a lot of moded coupes cant
cope with in terms of fuelling. The fuelling is crucial to
preventing the piston developing a hot spot and then melting.
Method of stopping and controlling boost is to fit either a
mechanical bleed valve or an electrical boost controller – these a
good upgrades how ever they also can present/cause another problem
– in standard set up the coupe boost comes in and in most cases
will not exceed 1.2 bar peak but will then reduce as the rpm
increases to the red line. Another thing that the standard EBV
will do is give varying boost levels according to ambient temps –
the mechanical bleed valve and/or electronic boost controller will
attempt to iron out the boost curve to produce a steady boost
level/figure.
Problem with this is that it will do this regardless of ambient
temps and also hold a higher/steady boost level to the red line –
this of course may run into problems with the fuelling and may
cause problems – there for even if your running conservative boost
of say 1.2bar – you may run the risk of still running lean and
damaging the engine.
So in summary I would suggest that people should at least have a
good look at the fuelling i.e. the fuel pump voltage and at least
cure if necessary the voltage drop at that point – it does not
cost a lot (under £20) and offers a lot more safety than leaving
it as is.
This post is only as an advisory and based on personal experience
along with a few other long term owners – it’s has not been posted
to create a scare but more of some information for those owners
who would wish to use as they see fit.
--------------------
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