Is this the right stuff for the job?

http://tinyurl.com/2vftw7k

I have done some very rough measurments and worked out that in order to do the rear quarters and the doors I need about 2m², so if I'm right this 10m x 225mm roll should be enough to do it all and some left over for doubling up.

mate that stuff is a wast of time, just buy the propper stuff or automotive sound deadening sheets

There has been various discussions on here about sound deadening. At the end of the day its expensive & the only big difference is weight saving. At the risk of sounding negative about the likes of the automotive stuff, your average Joe really is not going to notice much of a difference.

No doubt your enthusiast who has meters that record sound levels etc will not agree with me, but in all honesty flashband will do the job.

Great.

I was hoping for a definitive answer, and I end up with two opposing arguments.

TheAudioGuy - How about this stuff? http://tinyurl.com/37hy4v9

That's *very* expensive, unless the price of this stuff has shot up in the past couple of years?

I used their own brand (B&Q) flashing tape, about £8 for a roll!

Remember, the idea isn't to splatter the entire panel in the tape, it's to reduce the resonance in the panel. So I cut small panels/strips and then applied to the panel, tap the panel, decide whether it was enough or needed more, and move along the panel doing it that way.

As Jim says, you can buy a lot more expensive stuff but unless you're really monitoring things closely you'll not notice a massive difference between the two set-ups, but with the cheap stuff it does make a huge difference in a coupé!

Which is expensive the B&Q link in the first post or the Ebay one in the post above yours?

I cannot find any b&q own brand stuff!?

A wee tip Silver Fox, if you want to improve a speakers sound, is to put a few layers directly behind the speaker its self, maybe even use the automotive stuff as you wont need that much.

Many years ago I spent far too much on ICE for my rides. Looking back it really wasnt worth the expense, but at the time I was happy.

Yes, I have read that. Thanks.

A few layers of what though, that is the question!

Cheapest you can find.....

Okay, got some own brand B&Q stuff and I have covered all the metal on the inside of the door. At the moment I haven't filled in the "cutouts", is this recommended?

It's the inside of the door skin that's crucial for the stuff to work properly, if you've just done the metal just under the door card, you have really wasted your time.

Inside my door skin I have a plastic membrane, which when reading the guide it says I should not remove. How can I reach anything inside the door without removing it?

Or perhaps I do need to remove that?

Eh!!! At the sound of sounding facetious. Take a wild guess

get a hair dryer and heat up the edges of the membrain, it will pull off easier then, dont plaster the door skin in it

installation guid basic

door skin guide

maxmat 1 pack is more then enough to do 2 doors, so 2 packs for fron and rear, i use this stuff all the time, unless it a rear engine super car then its dynamat all the way

maxmat

I know it might appear a stupid question, but I guess that membrane is performing a function, in fact the door skin removal guide says it is keeping the car dryso I wasn't totally happy about removing it. I guess I know who to blame should my car start getting wet


The Dynamat guide puts more importance on the inner skin of the door, and says the inside of the outer skin is an optional extra.

As always there seems to be a little difference of opinion here.

AudioGuy, you say don't plaster the door skin in it, but the guide you link to covers the entire inner skin, and a small section of the outer skin.

So far I have done as much of the inside of the out door skin as I can reach, with a double layer behind the speaker, and I have covered the inner door skin, but not the "cutouts" (ie I can still see through to the outer skin.

the membrane must be put back on after you fit the sound deadening on the door skin, it stops condensation coming into the inside of the car

yes i was refering to the doorskin fitting in the second link, the outside before the door card is not needed, unless you running 8" speakers

OK I dont do this sort of thing for a living, but as I said earlier years a ago I did all sorts with ICE & making my rides "sound proof" What I've found....at the top end you can have, & I kid you not, some forking out thousands in their quest for the ultimate sound machine, & at the lower end you have some who just want to make the tin can sound a bit better

All said & done, its a money making business, it depends what you realistically want from your car, & there are limits. Musically speaking its one of the worst places. [The tin can is just what it is]

A car vibrates, OK we all know that ,but by applying some stuff to the doors especially where the speakers are, will make a difference. Without going overboard & quite cheaply you can make a difference. If you think you need expensive named products, well that's entirely up to you, what I'm saying & others on here have found out,you dont have to fork out a fortune to get some good results.

Wooops!

Will covering the inner skin with flashing have the same effect, as I don't think my membrane is fit for reuse.