I'm going to have a stage 1 hybrid installed on my car.

It's standard apart fromL:
a SuperSprint exhaust,
decat for the above
K&N Cone filter
Atmospheric dump valve.

Are there any other minor modifications (i.e. not costing much) that would make the set up better before Flea maps it with the ECU and uprated EBV controlling boost levels (dropping off 1.3 bar at 5000 rpm ish down to 0.9 at the red line)?

FMIC is pretty important matey
Iridium plugs

Yep, no FMIC in this case - hence the boost tail off to control the input temps.

I thought the standard plugs was still the way to go as the high spec ones tend to fail rather quickly?

Why can't you fit a turbo revs one mate ?
Only £200 and pretty easy to fit (there is lots of info on a thread I started).
Pretty sure it was recommended I fitted these when I started modding.
Don't think they last very long but that's no big deal....not that expensive anyway.

The second point was about the plugs BTW

I thought about it, but they just seem such a massive ballache to fit and then there is the problem of people saying they recieved the wrong pipes etc.

It's been suggested that, unless I want to rag to ass off the car for a prolonged period then the set up above will flow sufficiently cool.

Would welome the input of others on this - it's effectively Flea's "Power Light" set up, but with a turbo from Rog...

You will probably prefer a recirc DV. Will be less jerky on/off throttle.

Iridium plugs are expensive and dont last well, with higher boost cars melting the electrode within as little 3000 miles.

Get NGK 7 plugs. They are standard plugs but with a colder heat rating, basically a larger core transfers heat from combustion a little more efficiently.

My personal view is that 1.3 is too high in the standard intercooler.

Ive done extensive testing and the intake temps soar at those boost levels, as hih as 70c after just 2 gears of acceleration, and will still be high even with the boost decrease at 5000rpm.

Flea will check how your car responds to the boost when mapping though and ensure its safe.

Thanks Rog. I had thought about getting an FMIC, and if it means that its better for the engine I'll get one. Problem is that it needs to get in and out of my drive and that necessitates no loss in ground clearance (I grind the front lips if I get the exit path wrong). Not sure if any of the FMICs can achieve this - even the ProAlloy looked like it lost about a cm at the front. Also I'm not parting with big money for a ProAlloy FMIC if I'm only going for 280 or so bhp. I've seen some people wanting £350 for a *third* hand ProAlloy, which I think is unacceptably high given the new price.

If there is a small FMIC that does not reduce ground clearance which works on the coupe which I can pick up for reasonably money I'd definately go for that - I've even got a thread open on this but noone has suggested a size/make/price that looks viable (i.e. £200 or less and no loss in ground clearance). From my point of view not having a massive FMIC is also a good thing as I can't see a significant increase in the air displaced by the heat transfer system being a good thing for power delivery on a relatively small turbo. That said, perhaps is more an issue of the piping route than it is of the FMIC size. Some people using the TurboRevs FMIC look like they have taken a very long way around...

What are "sensible" or "stock" on boost temperatures after 2 gears of acceleration by the way?

On the DV situation, I know that the atmospheric DV is a little chavvy, but I kind of like the "wha-tishhh" sound that it makes... Does the recirc make a big difference to the driveability?

Sold on the NGK plugs.



Steve

If you are not going for mega power,why not just go for a charge cooler ?
They come up for sale here from time to time.
paul

Not sure what I'd need to get. Anything on the bay that would work?

Steve

There's no difference between a recirc dump valve and an atmospheric one in terms of performance, they both vent air in the same way so the only difference is whether the air goes out into the engine bay or stays in the system. Atmospheric dump valves technically cause slight overfuelling, but the impact would be very slight and lots of people run them without issue.

Gareth