Having just taken delivery of a good but elderly Blitz Dual SBC (Spec R) I have scoured the forum for any and all information regarding installing and setting up the thing.

Whilst I can imagine that setting it up will be ‘great fun and games’ with gain, set, scramble etc. it is the fitting which I still have some questions over.

Firstly, I should state what I’m trying to fit it into:
20V Turbo Plus my2000
CR Turbos Stage 3 Hybrid turbo, Pro Alloy FMIC and SIP, original injectors but 3.8 bar FPR, Original EBV, boost gauge.


This is what I think I should be doing as far as installation is concerned:

1. Mount the dual solenoid box close to turbo to avoid long pipe runs and over boost spikes. It will go on the old air box bracket.

2. Disconnect the red and blue tagged hoses at the base of the EBV and put red to IN and blue to OUT on the solenoid.

3. Fit a loop pipe between the two bottom connections in the EBV

4. Keep the top hose connected to the old EBV and the wiring (otherwise the ECU thinks things have gone wrong).

5. Connect up the output wiring from the solenoid to the control box (mounted in the ashtray.

6. Connect up (via in line fuse) to switched 12v and good earth.

7. Connect the vacuum tube in the back of the control box to the pipe line going to my boost gauge (Teeing into the line).

8. Proceed to revel in the flashing lights etc. and work out the correct settings for my car.

Can any of those of you out there who have either got one of these or knows more than me (not at all difficult!!) please confirm or alter the proposals?

That seems right to me

I have now connected all the wires and tubes now and just about to 'leap off the cliff' and start setting up the boost controls for the car!

In my research some say to tie off the top tube to the EBV, some don't mention it.

It is clear that if the Blitz is working you don't want the EBV to, also disconnecting the electrical connection to the EBV sets off the injector lights. As I see it the top tube is connected to the inlet vacuum and senses the positive pressure and then controls the input and output (bottom red and blue tubes) via the electrical connection, controlled by the ECU. If the bottom tubes are looped then even if it senses changing pressure through the top tube it is not controlling the pressure any more (these functions are taken over by the Blitz). Does blocking the top tube (with a clamp) ensure that the ECU doesn't get any signals and therefore 'interfere' with the boost control or is it unnecessary?

I just don't want anything to go wrong when I hit the road! I'm imagine that once the mechanical connections are right the setting up of the various boost options are straightforward ( I have searched all the references for the setting up on the Forum and have The Roger Gerl guide).

I think once I have have it sussed I'll do a "How To".

You don't need to do anything with the EBV other than keep the keep the electrical connection and just make sure the bleed back to the inlet is blocked off.

Once you implement the Blitz the ECU has no control and no impact on boost. Set it up for no more boost than I mapped it for, and make sure to use open loop i.e. duty cycle %. You will find part throttle a little more abrupt than before, the Blitz is a little more crude in this regard and will simply look to find max boost regardless as long as engine load is enough.