You won't need to upgrade that for a while
Must also be nice to live in a fantastic part of the country for cycling. We did a Coast to Coast in the summer. Proper hills, awesome views etc.

Well I got mine, lovely looking bike but far to big for me...driving up to Dereham tomorrow to swap it for a smaller frame.

Did you get it swapped for a smaller frame ok? When I was looking for mine Evans tried to tell me I needed a large frame when I clearly didn't!

Skinflint you're right, there's some fabulous roads to ride round here, but you're never too far from a big hill! I'm on the C2C quite regularly, use part of it for my commute to work.

Just started cycling again and seriously thinking about upgrading already. I bought a year old but unused so as new voodo agya hybrid and am already covering about 15 miles a day...I really fancy a proper road bike but am worried at 20st one wouldn't be strong enough for me..really enjoying cycling again and reaping the benefits fitness wise already, though my weight seems to be 20 st 4lb regardless of what I do or what I eat!!...

Biggbn, I was advised against a road bike, I am 17 and a half, I was told the max weight should be 16, maybe 16 and a half, as otherwise you'd be forever repairing punctures and stressing the components too much. I don't know the truth behind this, but it sounds reasonable enough!

So I am just about to buy a cyclocross, virtually the same as a road bike, carbon forks, drop bars, quick and light, with thicker tyres and slightly robuster frame. I am looking at a Cannondale Tiagra Caadx, which I can put road tyres on in time, if I want.

My hybrid is easy to ride to be fair, it just seems to need constant adjustment of the numerous gears. Mate is a bike mechanic and he says this should disappear after it's run in and the cables are all stretched to where they will stay...seems to have a ridiculous amount of gears for what is, ostensibly, a road useage big. I really like it, I just like going fast!

What a load of tosh. I am way over 20stone and been riding for years, not always at that weight but fluctuating between 17 and 21. Can't remember the last time anything broke through anything other than wearing out. I don't suffer with punctures until the tyre start to wear out or if they are running at less than 100psi. No difference in strength between cyclocross and road bikes it's just geometry and clearances for mud plus canti or disk brakes fixings.

Bike frames and components have to suffer massive forces not due to rider weight but leg power. The forces some of the more powerful pro riders will put through the frame, bottom bracket and crankset will make even the heaviest weekend riders efforts look meagre.

My current set of Campagnolo Eurus wheels have done well over 10,000 miles and are still as straight as a die. The only thing i do get through quicker than more nimble riders is quality summer tyres but it is hardly an issue.

My advice is to get out there on a decent road bike, it is so much faster, smoother, and potentially more comfortable at speed all of which makes riding so much more enjoyable.

As a way of losing weight I would forget exercise. The only way to lose weight is to eat less, believe me i ride on average over 2000 miles a year and it makes no difference at all, you find yourself subconsciously rewarding yourself for doing the exercise which of course negates any benefit. It takes 6hrs of riding to burn the equivalent of 1lb of fat, which is over 90 miles. Of course eating less and cycling will help but it is hard to do that.

Get a road bike and enjoy the riding, it is a great way to relieve stress too.

My current steed

Yup, just done a little research...most frames are safe to well over 300lb weight and only mod recommend for heavier riders is to get wheels with more spokes...I worry about the force thing as I am 20 st weightlifter and only problems iv had with components before has been crank sets and gears...I Can leg press 400 kg plus for reps and dead lift 260 kg for reps with no belt or straps, so can generate a fair amount of torque through the pedals..

Also, I am trying to eat less and cycle more...ja eight dropped right off last time but difference this time is I want to maintain strength too, so it's a juggling act...

For wheels i would recommend Campagnolo/Fulcrum factory wheels for their strength. Don't worry about spoke count, for heavier riders the rim profile adds more strength. I had 36spoke handmade wheels in the 90s and was always tweaking them to keep then straight. Then got a set of Eurus and Zondas and they have been good for years, although the zondas were stolen with my two bikes two years ago.

As for losing weight and maintaining strength, i agree it is very difficult, better to concentrate on the weight loss and then resume the strength stuff afterwards IMHO.

I did say I didn't know the truth behind it

I know Jim, I was referring to whoever told you the info Good to see you round these parts again

Hi Pag, yes changed it no hassle to a medium (not Doris Stokes ). The only problem with Pauls Cycles is it's f'ing miles away!

Moving swiftly on...can I ask how folks protect their cycles, I've seen the Tile and tbh it looks a bit big to hide? The next option is a cycle tag, the guys in Evans suggested this but they do sell them.

A couple of very heavy D Locks, one being an Abus Granit X

John, what size cassette do you have on that?

I recently swapped my 12-25 for a 13-29 and it's made the climbs so much easier!

13-29? Wow - a dose of MTFU needed here!

I used 11-28 for L2E as I knew the hills were all after mile 300 but 11-25 is my usual cassette on the Volagi. The Foil has a 12-23 on it with a standard 39-53 Double up front.

Bezzer, I have a 12-29 (11spd). Need it to get my bulk up the Surrey Hills and Chilterns, they may not be long but they are steep. The front is a 53-39, sometimes I wished i had gone for a compact, certainly when going up Ditchling Beacon.

I could also do with a 11 cog as i spin out the 12 when I hit around 45mph. No point climbing hills if you can't then bomb down the other side.

Shifty regarding locking your bike:-
Had mbikes stolen 2 years ago now. Insurance paid out but now they won't insure my bike unless using one of therse locks and chains:-

Cost me over £100 and the chain cannot be left draped on the floor so it is looped over a concrete beam, weighs a tonne too so you have to be careful when locking up.
http://securityforbikes.com/proddetail.php?prod=P16-x.x-SS65

If I am out and about I used a couple of different D locks and park in full public view. Having two types of lock will often put of a thief. All bike locks are easy to open if you have the right tools. If not then Carbon frames can just be sawn in half!! Make sure you get as much of the bike in the lock as possible, Crank, seat tube and rear wheel should fit in a good d lock. The aim is to make your bike look harder to steal than the one next to it. For my best bike i just don't leave it anywhere, if we stop for tea (and cake ) then someone stays with the bikes. Once at home it gets locked up immediately. A cheap garage alarm helps too, just remember to disarm it on early Sunday morning rides

I did The Beast too - brutal! I was happy to finish just under 3hr 20min. Did you get your picture taken?

I'd totally forgotton about the pictures Dennis, will have to take a look on the Facebook page. I had my picture taken a couple of times along the route, no smiiles for the camera though, just gritted teeth! Especially on the climb up through Iveston village.

3hr 22min for me, was really pleased with that for a first time out. I'm thinking about doing the Richmond ride at the start of November next.