Fill your boots!

How far is the "fettling" going to go? ( how long is this peace of string )

I am in need of some under tray repairs myself (Mine looks to have been cut off with an angle grinder at some point! ). have not started looking into it yet.

We're did you get your glass fibre kit from?

Just a bog standard selection from the local car store; glass mat, resin, hardener, and a couple of sacrificial brushes to make sure the glass is well wetted down.

Handy tip: use masking tape on the back to hold everything in place while you do the other side, then remove it when the first side is set.

This fettle won't go too far. In a perfect world the car needs a full strip and dip, patch, and rebuild as new. Unfortunately that's about ten grand, which I don't have. If only I could persuade all the users here to send me a tenner...

You'd have about £150!

Glad the old gal is going to soldier on

Hope you're using marine paint there on them rusty bits, Neil, oo-arrr

big difference, my console panel is coming out today for the same job. Im going to attempt the ashtray surround as well but appears like a tricky job

How are you cleaning up the console Neil? I'm wanting to do the same since I seem to end up with the gunk in my fingernails if I try and adjust a dial whilst driving.

Window and lock problems sounds the same as me too!

The top removable bits of the console - see the pics - I've cleaned down to the ABS plastic with nail varnish remover, meths, and a blunt scraper (actually, more of a get under the stuff and pusher) aka granddaughter's 'can't be trusted with metal' plastic knife.

The bottom bit is such a pain to get out that I'm swabbing it with meths and nail varnish remover in situ in a vain hope that it will at least clean it and perhaps restore a non-sticky finish. It seems to be working in some places but not others, and probably needs more work. I can't stay in the car for more than half an hour at a time, though, the fumes do me no good.

Looking good so far Neil

Good work on the window! And brownie points for replacing the shower screen

My 16vt certainly had puddle lights and I assume all did - do the later plus and 6 speed include them?

A reasonable conclusion re the 2nd-hand door, what a cheek.

Yeah, and the insurance company doubled the premium the next year, in spite of a protected no claims: apparently the percentage of Fiat Coupes involved in claims had gone through the roof in my post code (pop. 1).

Actually, on further thinking - I believe the door was replaced new: if it had been a 16vt door there would be somewhere to connect the puddle light wires to... perhaps the lifter mechanism was bent in the original incident, and they've replaced just that with one from a 16vt, complete with its loom?

Yes, the door would have had a slot in the bottom to house the unit.

Neil, I can tell you my 16v (which originally was before I converted it to vt) has puddle lights, but these do not work

Aaargh! Confusion reigns!

I recently had to remove the door panel on my 20VT and interestingly my shower curtain was on the 'inside' between glass/lift mechanism and the door frame. Made it much harder to manipulate and reattach.

I can imagine three-quarters of it being perfectly feasible but how would one get pressure on the last bit to stick?

Unless just the top and some of the side only is glued and the rest left to hang down....

I have to say I really like the way you're going with your project. You're building a nice usable vehicle, not a garage piece.

There was a tight fold on my curtain which indicated to me that the top should have been clipped by the door card over the window frame edge, which aligned the inner armrest section with a bit that would fasten down nicely. I'm pretty certain that packing tape was not part of the original recipe!

Thanks, Szkom - the aim is to get it solid where feasible and pretty where it show; I can't afford a full strip and dip rebuild mainly due to the remarkable inability of the members of the forum to take a subtle hint (DO THE DECENT THING AND SEND ME A TENNER EACH!).

I definitely think your approach is spot on. It wouldn't do the car justice to go back to bare metal. It can be driven every day, so it should.

"Genuine original patina"

The picture Banacle posted of his drivers side shower curtain is just how mine was.

It looks like there should be the main curtain plus at least one and possibly more small sections stuck on at the front.

The passenger side on mine is obviously inside out - but I was right that it should be hung over the window frame rail.

An ideal time to create a slot in the underside of the door for your puddle-light!

For wiper-refurbing will you use a rattle-top?

Yep. Given the unlikely event of the Bravo in the afternoon (see 'other cars'!) it's going to be rattle can for the wheels, too.

You're a step ahead of me. I need to do the wiper and scuttle panel again, finished the centre console off in black and it looks okay, not as bad as I thought it would although I need to re-do a couple of bits as the paint has reacted, but, meth spirits cleared the gunk off far easier than white spirit did!

Was that with the gloss you were considering, Alexis?

The main problem I had with the wiper panel was making sure it was clean - I had to wash it two or three times with soapy water and rinse to make sure all the life-forms were extinct. There was a thriving algae/moss colony living in some of the creases.

The coupe's now in for respray - went off this morning - so the ball's in Joe's court for the moment. Main concern now is getting the Bravo back.

It was with the gloss indeed. No photo's at the moment, but I suppose the next step is to do the centre console and maybe do the clock surround as this is now matt in comparison with gloss.

The phoenix she emergeth!

No shunting into rocks now

I was there on the 30th April.
Sorry I did not spot Neil's car, but lots of good work going on based on the photos!

Car looks great i am really please for you, you are always helpful on this forum.

One more little touch though is to hide the rusty wheel bolts so get a set of the chrome finish bolt covers from ebay for about a £10(better than they sound i promise. Some in this picture Wheel bolt covers

Tom

Too late now, I fear, Tom. I start driving on Friday... Still have the oil and filter to change and the fan override switch to hide somewhere.

Love the pics Neil

Thanks, Joe. Maya helped!

And while I'm here - let me say that this would not have been possible without Joe's enthusiastic support, help, ability to swing from exhausts, and inexhaustible cheerfulness when things fell off.

Thanks, mate.

Your welcome Neil

My therapy is going well btw, the twitching has nearly stopped along with the anxiety, cold sweats and nightmares

Yes, but are you still chewing bits of car when the dog's not watching?

Only Quantum parts yes

Very nice. Looks like a very good paint job. The only thing, and I think I may get shot for this. The bumper/boot lid needs a jiggle. The lines aren't quit.

You won't get shot; I know.

Also, I don't like the colour I have painted the wheels. Unfortunately the sudden requirement for an exhaust system in toto meant there was insufficient time to get the wheels dipped and powder coated; that will have to do after I return.

That says it all

Well done guys for such a transformation from a more sorry-looking 19-yr old I saw in February.

Looks like a job for when the paint has fully hardened, but the bumper should square up nicely. Just needs the holes elongating on the mounting points.

It really does look smart. Just need the right wheels back on.

Inlet sleeves are not available, neither is the main water hose at the rear

..........radiator has arrived though so that's now here safe and sound

Well that's at least *one* shiny thing to go back on! The old one can be a spare.

Do you have the dimensions of the manifold inlet sleeves to hand, Joe? Also, can we make the main water hose from three fat pipes and a T-piece? Need to look at that. I'm not looking forward to sticking it back on twenty years old...

I'll get the dimensions before I finish tonight.

I've found some new inlet dognuts

How much out of curiosity? (says the man using the tipo 16v inlet manifold)

Not mega money for a set so once the price in confirmed I'll let you know.

Pm'ed you Alexis.

Fine stuff Neil - I'm surprised the two shards didn't cause more damage.

Quite impressive that they just sat where they were. We found one in an internal oil-way and the other just floating around in the bottom.

I think I got away with it because they're too heavy a chunk to move too far in random oil movement. They're half an inch long and a quarter thick.

Crikey.
I`ll just get back to my fluffing around the edges then.

Neil there are pictures of your freshly re-ground crank, they're on my FCSS Facebook page so you'll have to join to view them

I won't, you know...

Is it me or has the regrind included not only cleaning and replugging the oil galleries, but also what looks like some balancing?

I was just thinking if they rebalanced the crank as those drill holes look fresh.

Polite discussion with an angle grinder and hammer per chance?

A few more photos and you'll have a Haynes manual.

p.s. I have a copy of your book. Not a Bangle signed on like yours though.

Hello,

Nice to see that someone else put much effort in "only 16V NA" for many people it woult be waste of money/time to spent such amount of effort on stock 16V...

I´ve read that your intention is to use 16VT final drive.. I think that it won´t fit to 16V NA gearbox..

only option is something longer from punto GT (someting around 3,3:1, I dont´know exactly) or tipo 2GT or sedici where is 3,545:1.... coupe has 3,733:1 16V turbo is different family of gearboxes...

to improve reliability and prevent oil pressure problems is good to remove balance shaft and use balance shaft eliminating kit from eg. deltaparts (I made my own..).

If its late to remove balance shafts, then simply don´t use balance shaft belt.. you will improve reliability of timing belt but problems with oil pressure can remain (middle bearing of balance shafts are in 90% of cases wery badly worn and most of oil pressure is lost here and in oil sprays..)

Thanks Honza,

Already discovered that the turbo final drive won't fit without significant effort; it needs the pinion gear as well as the differential changing and that's so far down the cluster you may as well just change the lot.

So I'm sticking with the original (but a new-to-me second hand box, as my differential is dead).

I'd prefer to keep the balance shafts working. It's not too late to remove, and yes, there is a concern about the bearings, but the pressure before the fix wasn't too bad (1.7 bar hot).

The main thing here is as much originality as possible, while attempting to make something that will last another twenty years.

Then, If you want to improve mpg, or reduce rpm on long jurneys, you can simly use wheels with bigger circumference.

As I have shorter final drive (4,07:1) -which is about 9% shorter in comparison to standart, but I´m using stock 20VT wheels and tyre size for normal driving. For track I change the wheels for 200/580/15 which correspond to 195/50/15... there is about 6% difference in total revolutions per mile and larger wheels partly compensate for shorter final drive..

I'm on 205/55 which is a touch oversized (195/55 standard). Means the speedo is almost accurate instead of reading fast.

Barnacle may I ask how much you paid for the blasting and powder coating of the items you took a photo of? I am about to do the same (with many of the same parts) and wanted to have a ball park figure in mind when I shop around. Thanks

You have PM...

ePer can give you the original engine number if you input the chassis number

The original number I have; this engine was swapped in thirteen years ago and this is the first time I've seen the number at all...

Ah yes I forgot you had had a replacement engine. But if you had the chassis number of the donor car? Or isn't it recorded on the V5?

Sadly, I don't; just the receipt for the engine.

Coming along very nicely.

Second digit of your engine number appears to be a zero.

As the sole owner, do you feel that the fact the cars were galvanized created a false sense of there being no need for a rust prevention treatment?

I agree the cars have lasted well compared to earlier Fiats and Lancias, my year 2000 Alfa 145 rusted like a Fiat from the seventies.

Only the bodywork was galvanised, not the chassis

As Alexis says. There was a (from memory) nine or twelve year bodywork guarantee - provided that you had the yearly inspections and made any advised 'corrections' at no doubt exorbitant prices.

The rust I've found on this one, so far, and without any rustproofing beyond what the maker did, is a couple of small holes in the floor, the boot seams, and what you see in the fettle thread.

It was certainly not an issue in what most would have considered a reasonable life for a car - ten years or so.

I`m sure I read key body panels and 9 year warranty.

My car has galvanized front drop legs.
Also in front of the open box section at the rear which becomes the jacking point, there is a vertical panel which is galvanized.

Generally I don`t buy a car until it is a least ten years old. I want the LE to outlast me and have begun by drenching seams with FE123 which will be followed with epoxy coat or Dinitrol wax.

I`ll save the jokes for my thread but a pattern seems to emerge with the area of corrosion by the forward subframe mount always being worse on the off side. I think this is because this may be the most stressed corner of the car and the subframe is trying to twist the chassis rail during cornering.

As you mentioned a let in repair i`m keen to see the end result. I have a notion as to how the repair should be made which is not how an MOT prep. person would do it. I don`t know that i`m right though and will try to get a picture of my rusty hole tomorrow and post with my thoughts - as I also see some strengthening options which hard driven cars may benefit from.

The repair is largely in the hands of Joe's welder - but there will no doubt be pictures.

The drop legs don't appear to be galvanised, though they are in somewhat better (though still rusty) repair than I might have expected.

I think looking at this the car was all galvanised,

http://www.polak.ch/coupemanual/bodywork%20general.htm

Listed are single and double galvanised parts, sure enough the single galvanised bits like the rear chassis and front cross bar are the bits that suffer on most coops. lower bits suffer from road salt and grime like any other car.

Poor seam sealing is a massive issue that really marks the reputation of a car that is really quite rust proof.

Yes - looks like single galvanised means 'just one side'. Which is a bit odd, as I thought it was an electrolytic dip.

By the way - don't sand through to the galvanisation; zinc dust is a *nasty* poison...

Not sure of the finish you want Neil but came across these only the one side though! also not sure if this is the part in your pictures or if its the bit nearer the front?

Ebay

I think we'll probably mend in place, thanks. Interesting find, though - I think it's upside down in the picture (but I am by no means sure!).

I did query it said it was for the left side but im sure thats right side?

It is the drivers side (if the picture's to be believed), and it's just the section forward of the strut.

Btw the car is coming on really well, Barnacle. It should land ready for the good weather at this rate.

A good days work today Neil, and I'm very impressed with the POR products you purchased

Yeah... took a panscrub under the shower to get that splash off my face

I thought they were freckles

Not any more, they're not!

Fantastic work Neil. Did you fit the special flanged pulleys to catch a rogue belt or are they only for 20Vs?

20V only. The 16V has a thinner cambelt which is more fragile - and I wouldn't leave more than 36k miles - but is not prone to eating the aux belts in the way the 20V is.

At the same time as I was getting my hair full of rust and ancient paint, Joe did the cambelt on the Bravo diesel. That had 73k on it (should change at 72k) but it's the same width as the 20v and to be honest it looked like new. No visible wear, no cracking... I use it daily though, and it was under two years old (!) which probably makes the difference.

Verry impressed of the work that,s done on youre coupé Neil

Non nom nom nom.....

I think you'll find that 'planking' is quite the in thing amongst the youth of today.

btw... excellent planning; removing that connector *two months* ago just to set up for a photo opportunity this weekend!

We're nearly ffinished, whoop

That we are. Got an earbending about 'you said this would be three weeks' on the way home last night!

There are 7 days in a week which works out at 21 days

...and don't forget 24 hours in a day (apart from today of course)

Ah the joys of the CV joint. I had a ball fall out of my CV joint last year, couldn't get the bloody thing back in, so a quick youtube watch, I popped them all out and after about 10 minutes of getting covered in crap, I managed to pop them all back in.

Innuendo, eat your heart out!

5hrs for Neil to rebuild two drive shafts

It was a learning experience.

You didn't know *half* of those swearwords.


(You'll notice I haven't given instructions about how to put them back. I don't want to spoil the fun for other people.)

I know it was a long time ago, but can you remember what paint you used on the plastic trim parts? And how has it stood up to the test of time? I need to paint my scuttle panel before it goes back on.