I would be keen to hear peoples views to what is a good boost controller.... what is the best boost controller (if it makes coffee too, thats a bonus lol)... and the pants boost controllers.

Please state your reasons why you feel they are good / bad or sideways to people can see and get a feel for what to look for.

not many comments / info yet... maybe i should start off...

ok, so, i currently have a R-spec boost controller bought from e bay... link below...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281357118139

the boost controller was fitted post fitted a FMIC to get more air flow from where it was originally, originally has 1.3 bar flow. fitted controller (easy to fit in my opinion) then had 2 boost settings rather than one fixed one. the one fixed one after fitting FMIC was around 1.1 bar... So controller setup with two settings to have a wet / dry setting for wheel spin reduction. 0.9 bar / 1.3 bar respectively.
After fitting this controller on a moderated tuned setup (apexi filter, pro alloy FMIC, std turbo, FC re-map, std injectors, std fuel pump) the boost behaviour was acceptable but did kick inn, spike to about 1.4 bar, then settle to 1.3 bar or other setting, boost ok, spike to 1.1 bar, then settle to 0.9 bar... drivable and not really noticeable in terms of power spike at this level of tuning. (around 250 hp or so)

So after some jiggery pokery and few parts thrown at her we go to n more respectable power level of tuning and at the dyno and on the road have same issue... but amplified, due to more boost provided... meaning the effect is now starting to get more noticeable (amplified) this was at around the 350 hp mark...

Conclusion being that the r-spec controller for the £135 quid for the complete package setup, is ok for lower tuned cars (250 HP or so) and drivable for lower tuned cars... but for a more respectable tuned car level (350 HP)... i would look for something other than this controller.

hope this thread provides info for those on the tuning route / considering this controller....

hopefully the next comment will be the next man with info on there electronic boost controller to give there input to help people be in the Know...

Blitz SBC ID3 spec R was widely regarded as the best EBC on the market when I bought mine. Best in terms of value, reliability and userbility anyway. I'm not sure if that's true anymore as that was over 5 years ago now...

I have the Blitz too for what must be 7-8 yrs, been great.
Rog tells me they are quite sought after now.

Hi.

I have just ordered Gizzmo's new MS-IBC V3, have not yet received it, so i havn't any experience with it.

The reason i bought it, is that i would like one of the newest "launched 2014" with the newest hard/software.:-)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/All-New-G...arts_Accessories&hash=item27de7e2c52

Have a nice day.

I bought a Blitz SBC-ID III when I got my Sprinty in 2003. Its still working perfectly now - done around 250,000 miles

Superb piece of kit

I have an AEM Tru Boost. I bought it because the meter could be installed in an A-pillar. Very easy to setup and use. I have had it for 5 years now. Still running

Youtube video: AEM Start up

I have an apexi avcr boost controller, this along with the blitz id3 were regarded as the better ones on the market. It can be configured for different levels of boost in different gears & revs and has the ability to run different profiles. I have a low boost profile for the family and a higher boost profile for when its just me. Never had any trouble and its been installed for about 5 years.

I would say you get what you pay for when it comes to these, I tried a manual boost controller, a prv but I wasnt happy with it.

Armval PRV for me ;-)

I think the original Bosch Motronic is very good. I have a GT28R turbo mapped by Flea, around 330hp. All safety functions intact etc.
Very happy!

I have a Gizzmo MS-IBC and wouldn't be without it, easy to fit, easy(ish to set up), gives 1.38 BAR almost to the red line. I have a few other mods.

It has 6 different channels (basically boost settings).
I would advise, set lower boost but quicker spool up on channels 1-3

Higher boost and slower spool up on 4-6

My advice is set Gain to 10 on channels 1-3 and gain to no more than 5 or 6 on channels 4-6 that way you wont get spiking or boost creep just nice stable and safe boost.

My only regret? I bought a used one and never got the Scramble button or loom, so if anyone has a photo of the wiring so I can make up my own I would appreciate it.

Have replaced my r-spec boost controller for an apexi unit. after I had looked around and decided that I would buy the apexi AVCR it seems this unit has a lot of functions and capability for tuning, but there is no truer phrase of you pay for what you get as it's not cheap.

fitting the Apexi unit took about 30 minutes to do, followed by about 15 minutes to setup via some support from FC Performance (thank you) .... after all anybody could of read the manual but i chose not to as its a guy thing not to lol.

After taking the car for a few runs, the improvement is brilliant to what was fitted. a nice consistent smooth power delivery. I would recommend this controller but be warned, it costs.

My car came with a Blitz SBC-ID III, however the previous owner had messed with the settings, now I have done the setup throttle response is good.

My install is very different, pipes to solenoid unit are very short, pipe to brain - same length. The reason for getting the pipes short is to minimize the response time of the unit. I had to re-site the brain into the engine bay and fit into a shock and heat proof housing - and give it some half decent wiring.

What is naff about this model is that I don`t believe that you can wire the scramble function to an external switch - I have a 2 stage overboost system with micro-switch operation based on throttle position lying around. I would like to have implemented the full throttle switch at least.

I've got a Blitz Dual SBC and it has been 100% rock solid reliable for the past two years.
I have now acquired a Blitz SBC ID and expect it to be the same but with more flexibility.

KBT's thoughts on its installation concern me however. My old Blitz has never had any response time issues and once correctly calibrated doesn't overboost or spike. It just gets on with the job!

Is the SBC-ID more susceptible to spikes etc. and therefore need to be kept 'short' as suggested? I was going to mount it in the same place as the Dual SBC i.e. in and around the speedo bulkhead but pipework would be the same length as before. What's the consensus on that location from owners of the ID system?

I've used a Blitz SBC ID3 for around six years and it's worked perfectly. With regards to the poor response, duirng the cold months it does sometimes become a little lethargic. It's caused by a build up of grime in the unit. Opening it up and rinsing it with carb cleaner gets it back to prime condition.

I've done this maybe three times over the years so by no means a pain and it only take 30 minutes or so anyway.