I cam across the this post on a website.. and posting here as is.



Each alarm has a unique 16 digit Hex code which should come on a RED plastic key card, about the shape of a credit card, and in my case was kept in one of the credit card slots on the left of my owners manual.

This number relates to both the original two fobs that came with the cars, and the alarm in the car.

Any new fobs, and I'm guessing here also if you wanted to reprogram an old fob for a different car, will need to have that 16 digit Hex code, or the alarm will not accept them in any way (so buying one from a scrap yard will need to be reprogrammed)

The alarm also has 7 'slots' where it can allocate associations with remote fobs.

By default slots 1 and 2 are allocated to the two fobs shipped when new, and any subsequent remotes will need to be allocated in one of the remaining 5 slots to ensure they work.

You can see this on the default RED plastic alarm card where it says under the 16 digit Hex code, in my case:

1* 2* 3_ 4_ 5_ 6_ 7_

When ordering an extra fob, it will need to be allocated to a 'slot' and in my case came with a second red key card which had on it:

1_ 2_ 3_ 4* 5_ 6_ 7_

to indicate that the new fob would go into 'slot' 4.

I spoke to Carl Baker and he was very helpful, however as I couldn't physically get to his location to reprogram my alarm (his preferred method of get everything is sync) I ordered an extra fob from Sam @ Abacus Alarms (www.abacusalarms.co.uk).

They recommended a Meta TXM550 (http://abacuscaralarms.co.uk/alarmshop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=97) as the M100 (the one we all got with our cars) is no longer made.

As DaveD mentions you have to give them your 16 digit Hex code and then they can program a new fob for you.

Maybe we should make this a sticky post so that it can always be found?

Hope this helps clarify :-)

Alex

Just a thumbs up from me for Abacus Alarms. After temporarily losing the main key and fob for my Plus, I went to use the spare fob only to find it was empty and the rubber button perished (oops, I didn't check when buying) so thought I'd better get a working spare. I went for the "Fiat" fob in blue, and got a spare matching case too. Followed the procedure to introduce the new fob and it works a treat

Holy thread resurrection Batman

It's not even 2 years, what are you on about?

I went for a new siren and two of THESE last year.

I took mine off as there crap and replaced it with a sigma s30, total close, boot popper, text alert etc etc,also toad ai606 with said additions would be my choice. Couple of options if meta parts are difficult.

What makes you label Meta Thactham approved alarm as Crap.

Mine works well.

A lot of the perceived "crap-ness" of Meta comes from when it stops working, but probably no worse than any other alarm, or even any piece of electronic trickery...

Crap as far as the_mule is concerned just means lack of features.

seeing that I am Thatcham approved car alarm engineer and have been in the industry for Neely 30 years, and have installed everything to everything, take a wild guess lol, naa on a more sensible, and productive reply, the build quality, installation set up, circuits ,key fobs, reliability ,programming, features, and general quality, I and most people I have worked with in the industry found them very cheap, unreliable, and of poor quality, we called them boomerang's as they always came back etc.as for the Thatcham certificate comment there was also about 200 different alarms/companies on the market that gained that certificate. for which didn't ever measure quality etc, the only 3 alarms I ever recommended or would install after work,weekends etc, were Clifford, toad ,and sigma, ( maybe the odd scorpion or cobra alarms but after approx. 2 years they had a habit of malfunctioning,) for reliability and a great valid lifetime guarantee. Hope this helps.