Hi guys n gals. Just a quick question. I’m doing a bit of work on the rear/interior, and thought I’d upgrade the speakers while I’m at it. I’ve bought some Hertz dieci 6 x 9’s but I’m worried about the distance the mid/tweeter protrudes.

It seems to poke out about 17mm beyond the foam edge.

My concern is it may make contact with the rear card when it’s clipped back in.

Does anyone know if there’s enough clearance for the tweeter/mid part, or am I gonna be likely to be spacing it inwards from the inner body panel?

Have you mounted your speakers on a small MDF spacer or 'direct' to the metal frame with the main bulk of the speaker inside the wing recess? Either way, provided the MDF isn't mega thick the mid tweeter should still clear the card. I thought mine was going to foul but there was sufficient clearance in the end

Thanks for your reply Pete. I haven’t tried to mount them yet just incase I ran into problems with the clearance. I think I might be gonna have to put some mdf spacers just behind the framework. I’ve got a sneaky feeling the tweeter/woofer will be in the way otherwise.

Trust me to get an awkward brand!

Thanks again for your help mate

You’ll be surprised by the depth available once you’ve put the card back on. I fitted Focal 6x9’s with MDF spacers inbetween the metal and speakers and had no issues with clearance.

Thanks mate. I reckon I’ll be needing to put some mdf spacers behind the framework that the card clips to, and then attach the speaker behind the spacer. I think I should get away with that no troubles.

The reason I ask, was on my searches I stumbled across a Scotts Green Coop where the guy had screwed his speakers straight to the framework I.e, (the side the card clips to). The speakers were black and the tweeters were well inset so obviously not protruding like mine.

It looks like most people are fitting them on the other side of the recess though (which makes more sense) other side of the mating face side of the rear card

Well I managed to de-rust the rear pockets. Coat with Bilt Hamber Electrox zinc galvanising paint. Then coated with Dynax S50. Got a pair of 3 way 6 x 9 Hertz Dieci speakers in and some new soundproofing at the same time. I’m quite happy with the results as it sounds a lot better than it was.

Before the rear cards go back on, I want to tidy up a few cracks then spray the cards with some sort of elasticised vinyl spray. I can then refurb the leather seats I have. They’ll be next in.

I’ve already de-gunked the centre console & handbrake console & buffed to a near piano black finish, so Coupe is starting to take shape

Hi Mark,

What did you do to de-rust - could you get all the way in.

I keep meaning check mine but was led to believe that if i found rust the only way of fixing it was by cutting through the outter arch!

Lee

Hi mate,

Yes, was dreading cutting deep into rust and simethjng I wasn’t relishing doing to be honest. I took the rear trims off and removed the existing flaking and separating sound proofing. When I started I thought to myself, ‘wtf have I started here!!!’ I really didn’t envisage having to replace soundproofing at same time.

I’m pretty glad I did to be honest, it is worth while doing. Bought some silver Vibe stuff from eBay. I then used some Bilt Hamber Deox C quit thick layerings a fair few times and also agitated with small wire brushes before removing. Before treating, I resorted to using a cordless drill with wire brush attachment to get the last black bits of rust remnants off, so it was nearly all shiny metal ready for coating.

I then used Bilt Hamber Electrox galvanised paint (3 coats) that stuff is awesome! - I then waited and applied Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 which is a waterproof wax coating and can be used as body undercoat. Pete Hamber the guy who’s company it is talked to me numerous times over the phone and was amazing! After I’d done this I put the seatbelt pre-tensioners & belt reeks back in (forgot to say) screwed new Hertz Dieci 6x9’s into the frame as recommended and wired them back in.

Got to do a bit of work on the trims before putting back in

P.s, there was 1 or 2 very small holes where the rust had gone right through (about 3 - 4mm diameter) but I just did the above procedure as most of it was sound and didn’t bother plugging the small holes