if you need the Polystyrene crash pad that sits behind the bumper . I’ve got one off this scrapper . .

Possibly.....more probably though will be thoroughly rusted bumper "hangers"?

Pair of front hangers purchased this week from Partsworld in readiness of latest pending paintwork.

Previous restoration pictures from nearside starting with the front wheel arch.
Welding again carried out by Polite Autos Gloucester.

Further welding resto work from the nearside rear wheel arch.

Looks pretty thorough Mark...terrifying how the corrosion gets such a hold

My n/s sill (and other areas) has similar troubles and will need sorting also..

I know pictures like that fairly well.

I had almost the identical issues, both the front arches behind the splash guards/liners had rotted(sills were/are sound as a pound both outers and inners along the length) it had rotted out both sides to a bigger extent than in your photos at the end of the sills where it met the arches and above I think, I also had the rear os along the boot seam/fuel tank area cut out welded and repainted; nearly 2 years ago by JBT and all good still thankfully.

Have to say the rot was not visible exterior-wise at all as was behind the liners, nor was the rear boot seam save for a small rusty mark on the boot floor! A sigh of relief when all was done and the underseal topped up (no real corrosion on floorplan). I reckon there are a fair few horrors lurking on a fair few Coops out there, glad I got mine done.

Hate driving the Coop in the bad weather with salted roads, luckily it has been cold but relatively dry down South so salt spray has not been such an issue this year on the infrequent days I have used her.

Rear eiffel's are on the radar at some point as the bottom of one crumbled into dust a few months ago

Can you pm me some details? Saw nothing on their website...cheers. J

I need the other side to the one that I already have, but TBH I reckon that a fabricated replacement of just the Eiffel Tower bit itself (and not the large amount of metal above) would be just as good if not better.

Hi Simon
Yes, the corrosion has gone on to the point where it all needs sorting or she would soon be too gone to save!
Very pleased with the efforts of Polite Autos who specialise in resto work and seem to have some skilled and sympathetic fabricators. Highly recommended.
I also had the nearside floor and sill done and will post some pics of that work.

Found them on fleabay?
Not sure they are the eiffel towers others are referred to though.

Pictures of nearside sill and passenger side floor welding.

We both seem to have gone down the same road!
At least we know what has been addressed going forward.

Thyey're not the eiffels, but are what I was referring to anyway!Cheers

You have a PM Jonny.

No i dont!

I've tried again...

Current dilemma!

Pair of Eiffels and a radiator support. Doesn't Joe supply them?

Sadly out of stock I believe, but I have pm'd him.

Many thanks to Joe at FCSS today, for helping out with a couple of key bits needed for the latest bit of resto work on the front end.

Cross member chassis leg nearside front existing rust.

They'll have to fabricate that section Mark, it's part of the flitch outer panel, not cross member.

Thanks Joe.

Bonnet retaining mount(?) pre resto having removed slam panel.

Doesn't that belong a bit nearer the bottom corner of the windscreen?

I am sure your right Simon!
Now discovered bonnet release cable loop in need of replacement - any tips?

Once you've got the screw clamp undone you might still have enough good cable to create a new, shorter, loop.

On another occasion I cannibalised some spare bike brake cable, formed a loop by folding it back on itself and jointed it on to the good cable after cutting off the frayed part.

Or you can cut out the frayed bit and screw one end of the cable into a chocolate block which then is placed behind the metal bracket that the loop normally goes around.

If you follow me....

Maybe this would help...

View from rhs of cable clamp tensioned behind slotted bracket
Most coupes have the cable looped around this bracket resulting in fraying over time, usually exactly when you need to open the bonnet in an emergency

The last fettle was to extract the entire cable from the cabin end and insert a new bike brake cable - coupla quid

I was thinking the same Simon - would a cycle brake or gear cable be sufficient?
How did you join it?

I have just seen your response to my "Parts wanted" post! Thank you.
Not sure why, but I cannot respond via that route?
I was hoping it could be done locally at the engine bay end!