Greetings.

Having put aside the coupé paranoia from which I have been afflicted for some time, I decided to increase the power a little.

I had a good opportunity in my hands and purchased the gtr2560 model (n. 420124 on the site) from turboparts.

I have many of the necessary support modifications installed for some time now.

Which includes:
FMIC.
SIP.
K&N cone filter.
70mm downpipe.
200 cell magnaflow catalyst.
Central straight Ragazzon.
Terminal Ragazzon.
Forge fmdvspltr drain valve set to recirculation.
Manual Boost Controller.
GTEC 2 chip.
I only use Petrol 98+ additive for complete cleaning of the entire injection system.
Turbo boost pressure gauge installed.

The only modification not yet carried out is a 255l Valbro pump, which I will install later if necessary.

I don't think I have any fears with these combinations and I won't push more than 1.2/1.3 bar.

I would like to ask you some questions,

1. I have always thought that a gasket is needed between the turbo and manifolds, I currently have one now.
but when I install the new turbo I want to be sure if I put one in, right? Even in the turbokit purchased there is one but, I read in the forum that it should not be used.

2. The new turbo is not aligned with the oil/water pipes and the cold side is also not aligned, I will have to loosen the bolts holding the core and rotate it, would you know how many nm to apply to tighten it?

3. I have been trying to buy a modern V-clamp to fix the Downpipe to the turbo for years, I have already bought the wrong size twice, could you tell me which one to buy?

any advice on installation/various settings is welcome.

Thank you .

If you are relying on the GTEC2 chip with that turbo I would install a Wideband O2 gauge to keep an eye on open loop fuelling. They are not expensive, easy to install with a collar clamp and the sensor can be mounted vertical on the straight tube before the cat. Make sure to wire in a relay switched direct battery feed for the power supply so the sensor heater gets enough power.

regarding the gasket, it is correct that you should not fit one.

Cheers Jamie

They left the factory without a gasket.

Thanks Clanger,
yes an AFR tool is also on my to do list.

Thanks Jamie,
I will no longer be installing gaskets between the turbo and manifolds.

well,
I'm still waiting for some advice regarding the second and third questions.

I forgot,
I also received the oil loading/draining adapters in the kit, these must be screwed onto the heart of the turbo, do you recommend simply using Teflon tape?

Thank you.

Thanks Joe.

point 2 , I just nip them up, I've never torqued them

And no you shouldn't need to use PTFE tape for the banjo bolts

Cheers Jamie

Greetings.
That's what I meant by using Teflon tape.
In these two fittings, both for the oil, I also received a new steel pipe to connect the turbo to the engine,

now the doubt arises in my mind, perhaps this brass fitting goes into the engine block and the banjo on the turbo?

Does the standard oil bango bolt fit the thread of the new turbo?

Oil return will need PTFE tape on the fitting and sealant for the gasket.

I'll have to check Joe,
in case it should fit, do you recommend installing the new banjo side hose to the turbo with two new copper washers, and the small fitting with some Teflon to the engine block?

If the banjo does fit the new turbo I'd use the original oil feed pipe, I've known the inner tubes on those pipes collapse causing oil starvation.

thank you for the tip

Greetings.
Joe nothing to do, the original banjo won't fit, he will have to use the new tube and the new fitting.
How do you recommend screwing it onto the turbo without or with Teflon?

Can you tell me the size of the copper gaskets on the banjos of the turbo water lines? Are they 20x14x1.3?

Again... with this turbo I definitely won't be able to install the support bracket that holds the turbo attached to the engine, is this a bad thing?

Thank you

Missing the anchor bracket isn't a bad thing, just make sure the rear exhaust mount is secure the gearbox arm, you don't want any excess movement.

Have you kept the old copper crush washers for coolant and oil?

yes,
I have all the old washers,
I have some new ones but only for oil not water.
the oil ones are 12x18x1, I bought them a few years ago.

measuring the water ones with the caliper it comes out to 14x20x1.3 but I wanted your opinion.

I'm always thinking about how to fix the small fitting to the turbo.
Should PTFE resist up to around 300 degrees
do you have a tip for me?

and thanks for all the help.

PTFE tape is rated -450°F to +500°F so absolutely fine for the oil return fitting.

I'm talking about this Joe, oil inlet.

Does that adapted screw in all the way to the body of the turbo?

If it does use a crush washer and PTFE tape for belt and braces.

You could use Loctite 567 for the job. That should be plenty enough for sealing

I have loctite 510, I used it for the shells on the head as per the manual,
but I don't think it's ideal for this.
Thanks for the 567 advice

Greetings
I wanted to ask for advice.
As mentioned above by Clanger;
it would be better to install the instrument with the lambda probe (AEM afr x-series 30-0300) directly from the battery with a relay, I'm not that expert on the subject but what do you think about this, will it do the job? naturally connect it with a wire that generates the impulse by turning the key which in turn will energize the relay which will give direct current from the battery to the instrument.

thanks

https://www.ebay.de/itm/28125191714...r=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yes That will do the job carmine.

hi. so, ive got a great low mileage spare engine, i will be looking for it to handle as close to 1000bhp as possible, what does it take for these engines to achieve the BIG numbers CLOSER to that number?

ive got a SPA turbo manfiold with external wastegate,
will be ordering PEC rods with arp 2000 hardware or pay the extra for uprated
hardware instead that is an option to come with them and 82.5 or 83.5mm WOSSNER Pistons,
was going to order the spa high lift cams but not sure about that now...
will be getting 30xx or 3582 turbo (t3)
will be ordering the full glyco???....engine bearing set
probably going to tap a map sensor i to the inlet manifold all the while the engine is out,
what injectors would i need?
what fuel pump would i need? i have a kemso 340lph (to fit inplace of my walbro 255) and 4 bar fpr with 480cc injectors currently with 350whp and stage 3 hybrid (stock housings) with apexi boost control, so where do i go from there?
what ecu is recommended that is a plug n play?? maybe not... with coupes??

this might interest you...but 1000 is a pretty big number

https://sfk.ibk.se/forum/forum/allm%C3%A4nt/projekt-galleri/14718-fiat-coupe-20vt-plus

cheers carmine, i wont be going for 4wd, not interested in having not alot of drama and not being able to do burnouts, that guys gone to town and damn, them d2 coilovers must cost, my bc br series coilovers cost over a grand

i think most of my mods will be ok except for the map, injectors turbo and paddle clutch just looking at his mods. and having a plus like him, the 6th gear wont be as resrtictive as the 5 so i could really ring it out.

first things first tho, my floor pan has rotted through at the front of the sills and also have a big dent in it thanks to the tyre place jacking it up on that circle piece with the hollow centre that LOOKS like you could jack it up there (located just behind the wishbones)
and my turbo is dripping coolant on cold start and after a drive and oil from the centre of the cartridge even tho its all tight, ODDLY ENOUGH NO NO SMOKE WHEN THE CAR GETS OFF COLD START/AFTER 20-30 SECONDS AND NO SMOKE ON BOOST.....
and my stock manifold has cracked and beeen rewlded serveral times in its life and looks hideous!.

Carmine, that SPA manifold looks interesting. My replacement brazed manifold has cracked again, no performance loss but it stinks on boost (E85 so smells like a Gin distillery in the cabin) unless at motorway speeds. I will be interested to see how you get on, I don't want to go to a bigger turbo so would need a T2 fitment which I believe they can supply? please keep us posted.

Lloyd, presumably you are going aftermarket standalone ecu, in which case mapping can be a diy job with all the logging facilities a modern ecu has to offer, great learning experience. I've remapped the standard ecu for E85 and learnt so much in the process...

i paid around 250 all in for it straight from there site from the states, its very nice as its cast, seems to be tubular having each runner completely seperate from the others unlike the stock one, its very thick and boy its ALOT heavier than the stock cast manifold, so should last. also has big ports.
mmm corn juice, is it just e you can run or are you using flex fuel setup?
im not sure the fuel consumption to bhp ratio is really worth running e tho as i heard that it takes alot more and goes alot quicker. would be a nightmare getting fuel, trying to get super unleaded is a pain itself.
might take some pics of the other engine when i go to the garage, strip and clean the engine and mock fit the spa manifold, so everyone can see the dimensions of where everything will sit should they want to get one.

oh thats crazy, didnt realise the stock ecu was that capable/flexible.
as much as id like to give that a go id balls it up, not good with anything but mechanical stuff tbh and would break something. id like to go standalone as im 70 percent sure im going to get the manifold tapped for a map sensor.

I'm in France and Ethanol is at 78 cents a liter versus 1.80 euro for E5. Need to up the fuel by 28% but its still a no brainer once you factor in the the performance increase once properly mapped. No flex fuel but I can upload a petrol map in seconds if need be. Anyway enough of that thread drift... Good luck with your modding