i have had the Gtec1 chip installed with a powertek boost contoller but although this is ment to increase my bhp i cant feel it im sure iv lost bhp at 4000 rev i cant feel the turbo or the kick i use to get. now im think of getting the powertek chip on ebay as iv called him and he said its restricted in 1st and 2nd gear so the car may drive the was it was before i started playing around with it.

i may just just it back the the standard electronic boost(by removing the boost contoller) if i do could i keep the Gtec1 chip in?

as i have a boost controller iv i just for example the standard chip back in would the 1st and 2nd gear be still be restricted or unstriced due to the boost contoller?

do anyone have the powertek chip and if so is it good

Gtech 1 is the Daddy delimits 1st, second.

Your problem might be elsewhere. My car is much more responsive with just a Gtech1 and induction. Although i'm fitting a fmic to keep temps down.
You should be boosting upto 1.2bar with a Gtech 1.

i am boosting at 1.2Bar but it just not aas qwick as it was before in 3rg gear at 3000 rev you feel a slight kick but when it get the 4000 the car feels like a it wonts to go faster but it wont due to the boost contoller... before when it was standard it would go 0-80 in first and second we not it will on go to 70 and it now takes longer

Are you sure, as no other car will reach 80 in 2nd, its not geared for that, unless your rev limit is increased to about 9k rpm.

Pretty much every modded car on the forum runs a gtech chip, its doubtful that that is your fault.

do you think i sould remove the boost contoller?

Might be worth a try as something is holding the boost back at that point, try it with out it, if it still does it, its not that

I wouldn't strip out the boost controller, just dis-connect and use a PRV to see if the problem persists. It's just a matter of eliminating each thing in turn to find out what the actual cause is.

Mark

iv reduced the boost to 0.9 bar - 1.0 overboost and the car was flighting to work ill post this form to night when i take it for a real spin ... if the problem is fix why would it be qwicker on 0.9 bar than 1.2 bar?

It's probably something else, but the only thing I can think of is fuelling.

Cheers,

Mark

do i need a new fuel filter?

If the ecu detects a problem like detonation it will start reducing ignition advance. It doesn't do it in a small and controlled manner, it just takes of advance by the shovel load. This may be the issue?

I ran a Gtech1 using the standard boost control without any issues. The standard boost control is quite good when its all working properly.

so how would i sort the problem should i get a air fuel ratio gauge and increase my fueling if its not right? but i thougth the gtec1 chip increase's my fueling anyway?

I'd get your car put on a rolling road mate and get the fuelling checked. The other bonus of this is that they will give you the power/torque figures also. If your car is overfuelling, it'll be running less power than if it was correct, but that requires mapping to get spot on.

Have you disconnected/plugged the standard EBV pipes at the bottom when the boost controller was fitted?!

Cheers,

Mark

When you install a boost controller or PRV you will not have so much kick. Standard EBV will allow over boost and I have seen 1.5 Bar with EBV and Gtec1.
What did you set the PRV to? 1.2 Bar?
Have you checked all hoses that are connected to the EBV?

my prv was set the 1.1 bar and over boosted to 1.2bar but it was not powerfull like it was before i have the chip and boost controller added. so i put have not set the prv to 0.9 bar and overboost to 1.0 bar and it not as goo as it was standard but is a lot more powerfull than when it was at 1.2bar .. and what is EBV?

The EBV is the little standard boost controller on the car in front of the battery tray which you have to disconnect the hoses to underneath it to fit the PRV to the pipes. These holes should then be blocked off under the EBV and the two pipes that have the come off the EBV have the PRV fitted between them(or the electronic boost controller). You can also check base boost on the car, which should be around 0.6bar by connecting these two pipes together, which is then effectively the pre-load of the actuator. That's my understanding on it anyway. The Gtec1 chip's fuelling is mapped to 1.2bar, so if you're not running 1.2bar boost with the Gtec1, I'd imagine the fuelling would be out(?!). It's worth trying to get it set up in the best way you like and then get the fuelling checked on a rolling road to ensure you're not running lean or you can ultimately melt a piston/ruin the engine.

I'd check you can run normal base boost of 0.6bar by connecting the 2 pipes off the bottom of the standard EBV together and blocking off the holes on the EBV. This should then only read 0.6bar across the range whilst on boost. This will then eliminate the actuator being the problem. When you've done this, try it with the PRV set to 1.2bar and see what the car feels like and how it reacts. Try then the same with the electronic boost controller and see what that's like. The characteristics will be different and you may not get the surge of power you got with the PRV from the electronic controller as the boost controller will try and hold the boost longer over the revs and come on boost at a different rpm. It all depends on how you've set up the controller. The other thing to also check is for any kinks in the pipes or boost leaks. If you have a boost leak, it might only leak at 1.2 bar as the pressure is greater and more likely to escape, making it feel quicker at lower boost as the air isn't escaping.

It might help, it might be a load of crap. It's improved my typing anyway!!!!

Cheers,

Mark

I thought, jordanjones1987, that when you wrote boost controller you meant a PRV (mechanical device) not an electronic boost controller like Blitz or GReddy.

i have got a manual boost controller see below -

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/POWERTEK-BOOS...Z004QQcategoryZ72205QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem