I don't know if I want too much more torque - I'm at 330ish already, but seeing as I'm still on stock rods, I really don't want to be pushing it too far.

Stock engine - 90% VE
Modified (cams, exhaust etc..) - 95%VE
Race spec - 105% VE

See the difference in VE% on the compressor maps below :

GT30R 95% VE
GT30R 105 VE

Hi Begbie,

Your 105% VE curves are pretty much what I have calculate and drawn into the GT3071R compressor map. The map of GT30R you have used is a little bit bigger GT30 turbo than the one I have ordered, GT3071R, 0.86.
In my calculations the line of 6000 rpm goes straight thrue the best efficiency island <img src="/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />, even with 2 bar / 6000 rpm boost I should be indside the 75% efficiency island. Okay, there comes other things, which will make it impossible <img src="/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.
All in all, clear is that there is needed around 40 lb/min to get that +400 bhp <img src="/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.

Regards,

Jari

begbie, any update for us on progress

Not really.

Engine is with Guy Croft to be built. Had a few issues with various bits i have bought, so had put a delay on things. Also lack of money at the moment

Bright sde, managed to get hold of a Motec M48 Pro with map sensor, air temp sensor and adaption box for Mitis Evo, so have some loom to work with

so easter is out of the question then?
Looks like I'll have my car done first
[just pistons and fcuking con-rods to go...]

V.

A little update really.

Had my Pauter rods sent back to Pauter to get refurbished due to small dents in the big end and the bronze bushes
were a bit knackered (stop the pin for the piston sliding through). While the rods where there, I also got a new set of ARP2000 bolts as well for them, $8.19 a bolt.

If your wondering how they refurbish the big end of the rod, what they do is take the cap of the bottom of the rod, take a thou off each end of the cap / rod so when the cap / rod are put back together, it is slightly oval, then
they will machine it back to a circular shape again, job done, and the charge for this, new bronze bushes, magnaflux testing and shot peening is $45 a rod, so about $245 for the rods and new ARP bolts But shipping was another $116 then Customs charge you duty for repair work, cheeky sods!

Boxed Rods
Look like new
Clean Big End
New Bronze Bush

Also a couple of pics of the new crank that I got after some confusion with the other new crank I had

Crank
Crank again

So my engine is ready to be built, all I need now is a std flywheel, as the one I had lightened by Serdi has had too much material taken off it, leaving me with about 3 - 5mm of material keeping the flywheel together.

Also the 6 speed 20vt box is about ready to fit to the new engine as well. I did look at swapping the Diff's over, and when they were both out of the gearboxes I could see there was a big difference, being that the diff is much bigger on the 6 speed 20vt than the 16vt, so after putting the diff's back in, I looked at swapping the inner flange over, which I should have done in the first place as the 16vt flange is a direct swap for the 20vt flange, meaning I can still use my 16vt driveshaft’s All is left is to swap the starter motor internals over from the 16vt to a 20vt starter motor as the 20vt is a shorter motor.

good to hear/see mr Begbie!

so the important question is: have you got the dosh to put the engine back together now? I assume GC is going to put the whole thing back together in one piece, right?
Got new pump(s), gaskets, headgasket, belts, turbo even for a full engine?

V.

Ps. got the money back from Tony?

I have some money left for GC to build the engine yes, but the surplus things like turbo's, manifolds, gearbox etc... i will do myself as GC wont do it and there is no point in paying for it to be done if i can do it myself

Yes, i got my money back from Tony, lost about £50 through the whole process, but £50 is nothing to a snapped rod

Looking good, Just a few questions:
Have you decided on the Engine managment System?
Who is going to wire it all in?
Who you gonna trust to do the mapping?

rods look great, perhaps I should have kept them

I sent the tipo fw up to GC Alexis, so its there if you can use it.

So is the house sold?

Rich

Said a few posts up, Motec M48 Pro


Me


http://www.ggmotorsport.co.uk/

Rich, give me a bell and i will explain all

their RR fan reminds me the one I have at home for the hot days of the summer Hope it's an old photo and they now have something larger...

V.

I think it is an old photo, but it wont be there for a days session, It will be there for over a week as phil who run G&G lets the car cool between high rpm runs, to the fan size perahps is not so important. Then he'll probably make Alexis do a track day or run way test fitted up with the diagnostics and wide band to get the real world calibration. Very thorough.

Rich.

What brake set up are ya going for and what intercooler you using dude?

Think Begbie has 20vt calipers.

Currently using integrale EVO calipers with coupe 20vt discs. FMIC was a group buy a while ago, ANEW or something or other from ebay

Begbie you have pm!!

Begbie,

just looking around and came across this thread.
Any news? Summer's coming!

V.

Well it seems some of the engine is being built now

I'm thick! I don't get the plastigauge useage Alexis
(and I'm at almost the same stage, engine at the machineshop, should be building the bottom end by the end of the week)

V.

Its a bit like using feeler gauges only without the possibility of scracthing/scoring.

Think of a thin wax solid block (stretched out), apply it between a bearing, torque everything up and then measure how much the wax has squished out. If gap is too big is won't spread out that far, too tight and it will be very spread out

Chris

P.S Hmmmmm.... nice clean engine

yeah, got that bit (not that thick...), but how much it spreads has to do with how much you put in, no? I suppose you put a certain sized blob and then squashes to 2mm thick or something and that helps you figure out the tolerance it's running? Sounds a bit SF to me...

V.

is it a thin strip of wax Vas, if you look closely, you can see it sitting across the crank, it is the only way you can really measure your clearances on your crank bearings.

Loads of people use it Vas, i even have 2 boxes of Plasti-gauge sitting around at home

It comes is thin strips - which are supposedly all the same size.

Chris

The plastigauge is a wire with a consistent diameter, you always have the same amount of material. You just cut a piece of plastigauge 'wire' and apply it to the stuff you'll like to measure.


The engine looks good begbie!

I saw a yellow coupé at Spa Italia (Francorchamps), it also had a roll cage in it, exactly like yours. I tought it was you there but it was a different chap.

found some pics, this is the car i was talking about:

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/3676/spaitalia017up2.jpg
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9113/spaitalia018ze7.jpg

Cheers

could I have the one box pretty please???

(and have it in my hands by Monday latest...)

V.

You can have it, if i can remember where i put it and pay for the postage, but doubt it would be Monday when you get it

begbie....what big end bearings do you have in this project? i need the best bearings cause...i get again, for third time, oil pressure problems cause the main end bearings....

thanks