at the mo i have my greddy set around 1 bar but i find that it sometimes spikes/overboosts to 1.1bar and when up the top end of the rev range it will creep to 1.3 bar!

i dont want this! its fun but i doubt it will last very long!


anyone know why this is or is it the way the gt28rs is designed?

and has anyone got the settings for the greddy profec b to run 1.0 bar bang on all the time!!??

BUMP

still doing it! any help?

What settings are you running on the greddy? I run a 1.05 bar 1/2/3rd and 1.1 4/5 with my settings.

Ross

Goose......it sounds very similar to what my Greddy was doing before the solenoid became knackered..... Be careful, one week mine was doing 1.3 bar, and then all of a sudden it started doing 1.6 bar.
Roger took a look at it, and replaced it with a PRV....

It was only 10 months old, and had very little abuse ;(

well this is my second greddy and its been repaired by greddy allready!

its not filling me with confidence!

i need the car mapped next and if im going to drive 200 miles to london and find out my greddy is knackered im not going to be a happy bunny! especially when greddys 'help' network is in japan!


greddy settings are:

set- 17%
gain- 10%
set gain- 1.17
warning- 1.30
warning- L4%


a mate in work seems to think its due to the actuall size of the turbo. with it being a bigger housing and bigger intake it will increase boost later up the rev range.

can anyone give me some settings that will run 1.0bar flat on lo and 1.2 bar on hi! so i can try them out!

right then turned off the greddy earlier to see what happened!

i found that it would hit 0.8bar then increase to 1.2-1.3bar after 4k!

i didnt think that would be possible!

could my solenoid be bust?

I have an RSR not an RS, but for 1bar I have my GReddy set something like this:

set= .55
gain = 10%
set gain = .9

Check the hose going to the greddy... had the same problem myself...

Ross

That seems quite high for just 1 bar, or do you mean at the redline?

Now that I think about it, it's probaby 1.1 bar midrange and 1 bar redline with those settings. I also have a (race)cat, which I presume means I have to work turbo a little harder than those with a decat.

[quote=h2ypr
Check the hose going to the greddy... had the same problem myself...

Ross [/quote]

its all brand new hoseing

bump


help

first of all check its piped up correctly make sure the boost hosing is a short as possible, meaning get the solenoid in the best position between the boost feed and the wastegate also the boost feed should be as close to your turbo as possible, the solenoid should be fitted using the common and normally open ports making sure the plastic bung has been removed from the normally closed port spray some wd40 in to the ports to make sure there ok as the shit out the breather system gets in the boost path and can clog it up, to chck if your waste gate is ok remove the greddy solenoid and rplace it with a bleed valve(15 quid) or join it out with a bit of hard pipe (1 pound) from tropical fish shop then you should get solid .8 bar if not the wastegate is knackered.

tell Your m8 to shutup he is talking bollox lol , I ran one of these greddy units in my evo and the conclusion I come to is they are rubbish, I ebayed it and replaced it with a trusty dawes device not a cheap prv as the Dawes actually worked better than it gave consistent boost in each gear regardless of weather with minimal over boost, the Greedy which after a year of constant faffing about, still had different boost in every gear and was inconsistent depending on weather and what rpm you floored it etc..

but back on topic you have yours setup wrong which wont be helping, the gain should be set at .2- 4 bar below the boost you wish to run and I had mine set to the minimum 5 percent, anymore would cause boost creep and or see-saw boost in the higher gears depending how the Greddy was feeling that particular day.
give this a try should stop the creep

set- 17%
gain- 5%
set gain- .8
warning- 1.2
warning- 4%

if it doesent lower the gain to .6 it might make it over boost a bit more early in the revs but it wont creep, if you find you hitting the warning to often lower from 17 to 16 and so on untill it's right, although with a walbro and gtec2 you should fuel 1.4 bar without problems tbh you will never get it perfect with this unit you just need to find the settings that will give you the best compromise of minumul over boost and boost creep vs holding good boost at redline it's a catch 22 situation.

.

right then ive had the car in for some new parts to be fitted and this hasnt bothered me that much. but tommorow i get the car back and i know that i'lll end up wasting fuel and time trying to set up the greddy.

my boost feed is tapped into the 'hot pipe' going from the turbo to the fmic. its beed alu welded in and the pipe is firmly over the top.

when i get the car back tommorow i will try what you have said above. im certainly not filled with confidence with these units second unit and its been repaired allready.

what is this dawes device? any links?

Must admit I never a single problem with my Greddy and it is the preferred choice of many rice machines especially Skylines.

http://www.3barracing.com/product_6.htm

The hybid Dawes device is the best prv available just set your waste gate boost at .2 lower than the boost you wish to run, and then install it, works better than the Greddy imho the Apexi would still be better though due to the throttle position sensor gives better throttle control more like a bleed valve whilst still been able to hold the boost and give good spool more like a prv so best of both worlds and it's gear mappable aswell so eliminates boost fluctuation in different gears but not cheap at 300 notes and is a nightmare to setup, the profec B or Dawes/prv type valve turn the pedal into a on off switch but if your used to the GReddy the Dawes device will be no worse, downside with the Dawes opposed to the Greddy is you have to adjust it under the bonnet but once it's set up you will forget its even there.


Dawes device U.K supplier

http://www.flat4online.co.uk/catalog/pro...ost-controllers


@flea hi m8, I know allot of people use the Greddy as it is able to ramp the boost up and down easily and is relatively easy to setup and I suppose if you don’t mind the over boost and different boost in each gear then you could perhaps live with it, but I was running my evo at the limit of the det threshhold at 1.68 bar it would det at 1.75 the Greddy was unable to give me a consistent 1.6 bar in each gear, 1.6 bar in 5th(which was safe) would mean 1.45 bar in 1st which made me slower to 60, 1.6 bar in 1st would be 1.65 in 2nd and det in every other gear etc.... that’s why I binned the useless piece of junk I got a hybrid dawes device and set it up which took 40 minuites solid 1.62 bar in every gear occasionally overboosting to 1.65 on cold day or if I floored it a low rpm in 5th .



I thought you run the apexi anyway?

i have the dawes device fitted,i asked them at rse to set it to 1.2bar and at the rr at halfax last week it did its job and, i never haveto worry about it once its set heres my craffs,

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g45/cowboykarl/patsphotos020-7.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g45/cowboykarl/patsphotos003-12.jpg
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g45/cowboykarl/patsphotos004-15.jpg

i just binned one of them!

i ordered a fuel pump from flat 4 and they cocked up the order so they gave me one of them foc! i needed a bleed nipple so i broke it down to make one and then used a proper nipple. hence why i binned it!


alot of people i speak to seem to think that electronic devices are a waste of money, although ive always been told from a mapping point of view they are a must!?

i personally like the switchable feature between low and hi boost but its becomeing so tempermental now its annoying!

is there a cheaper version of the dawes device as i think £45 is rather steep for a 'bleed valve'

i might stick with the greddy untill the car is mapped and take it to perfect touch with a prv aswell as the greddy. that way if rob cant get it to behave then sod it just run it with the prv!

the electronic boost controller will gain nothing over a good PRV (if setup properly with wastegate) such as the hybrid dawes device regarding boost control the Greddy is crap although the Apexi does give better throttle response both can switch boost levels without getting out and going under the bonnet which would be the main advantage.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/archive/index.php/t-75594.html


found this guide on setting up the profec B should be of some help.

Hmmm, not sure why it was overboosting for you Dan as it shouldn't ever do that. Once I configured mine I would get zero overboost in any gear all the time. I switched to the Apexi due to wanting lower boost in 1st and sometimes 2nd gear (especially when dragging) but other than that I have not found it to control boost any better.

How's your VIII going now, have you set any 1/4 times this year?

cheers dan i'll keep that link in my favs so i can set it up properly when the car is on the road!

@flea no m8 havent had chance yet still need a remap then should have around three hundred horses at the wheels and a low twelve all going well

me and taffy20vt are getting the same problems now!

i tried messing with the greddy and it dont matter what you do it still does the same!

taffy is running an apexi so its possibly not the boost controller!

same turbos tho iirc

Yeah mines doing exactly the same,I cant alter the boost at all with my Apexi Avcr

Whats the results when u turn it off?

Ross

You've lost me Ross

What happens when you turn the boost controller off? I had loads of problems with my greddy, so i've tried every little thing. Might be of some help.

Ross

As in turn it to 'Off' or actualy turn off the power ?