Messy but satisfying, bit like my life in general

Most of it was simple. For access to the sills I started by taking the rear quarter panel off inside (to seal up those pesky badges) and there are access holes already in the tops of the sills. Take off the kick plates at the doors and again, easy access to the sills.

Doors were done when the trim panels were removed anyway.

There are some shocking little rust traps at the rear end, if you look underneath at the point where the inner wing joins the body...... OMG!!!

Variety of tools and implements used included a Dremmel, a spotblaster, wire brushes of different shapes and sizes and a fair amount of blood, sweat and tears

Oh, and don't get me started on how bad they suffer at the front end...........

Especially silver ones

....Sprint Blue

Planning on taking quite a bit of the fron end off & bead blast & powder coat.

Thanks 4 reply Stan, Deffinatly will look into waxoyl etc

Waxoyling is one of the first jobs on my list after the car comes back from the bodyshop.

I need to replace the rear quarter interior panels anyway so I can replace the speakers and rust hunt / wayoyl at the same time. I'll also fetch the kickptates off and do the sills and door bottoms.

I then intend to lift at the car up as high as I can from each side (one side at a time) and find/treat/waxoyl as much of the underside as possible.

I'm going to buy one of the 5litre drums of waxoyl and one of the spraying kits where you can attach a narrow pipe to the end to get into all the nooks.

*EDIT - I've just looked in the garage and I've still got 4 litres of waxoyl and a sprayer from the last car I did (Metro about 15 years ago!)

This car has got to last!

James

My old man used to waxoyl his Metro Turbo every year, I swear you could hear the stuff sloshing up and down the sills

Still, it worked as he still has a rust free Mk1 Metro Turbo, when did you last see one of these?

When it was rolling off the production line

Is he looking to sell it BTW

I disagree Bockers, they didn't even come off the production without being rusty thanks to BL's idiotic idea of storing the steel outside

I think K9 is hallucinating

Pure genious!

Oh yes........ I think I was maybe 5 or 6 years old and I can't remember the exact reason for the visit now, but my old man took me to one of the BL factories. He pointed out the steel lying in the stack yard and was told that it was waiting to be turned into panels. Even at that tender age I was able to say *but won't it rust in the rain?*

Obviously their stock controller was a 4yr old

Similar to the recycled 'black metal' Fiat, Alfa and Lancia used during the 1970's and 1980's made from crushed cans and all other throwaway steel objects!!
To do the sills and box sections etc, i would drill some holes and fill the cavities up. Then plug with a flat grommet. Waxoyl works best mixed with Supertrol and heated up to thin it.It also has a tendency to get everywhere, so cover everything up including yourself!!

Andy.

What is Supertrol Andy?

James

A normal Troll but with super strength and even longer hair like this but only bigger

Supertrol is a thinner clear rust protection that is water proof. Well known in the classic car world. It will mix with all waxes. Some mix it with Waxoyl to make a slightly thicker protector. But a lot have moved on to Dinitrol products which are proving good.Its best to use a rust comverter like Dinitrol PR15 which converts the ferrous rust back to ferrous steel. Then apply the protector coating.

Andy.

Interesting page on rust treatment here;

http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/intro/?gclid=CMu_6caFvo8CFQ4iQgodUWubYw

Also interesting info on rust converters if you click on the link on the page. I've always been very doubtful of rust "converters". You cant just convert iron oxide (rust) back to anything very easily - hence why a blast furnace is needed to extract iron from iron oxide!

James

Carl can you tell us where these bad places for rust are as it would be worth trying to prevent it from happenning.