nah!

the cost of updating the pillar stickers would blow his budget...
why on earth would someone want to do such a thing anyway???
Seasoned engines are better

Is that the reason why the Americans refuse to move on from push-rod valves?

No, but it's probably why the Germans used to take 150k miles 1500cc lumps out of old 1602 saloons and leave them out to rust behind the engineering sheds before turning them into mega-horsepower turbocharged Formula 1 lumps.

True story!

Oi! Less of the off topic here, else i will lock this and unlock it later

Bully!!

Andy.

Well old engine dropped out in about 30 minutes yesterday, then a combination of balancing the engine on blocks of wood and the engine hoist rope, 6 speed box off, 5 speed back on, bolt it up and engine back in place. Driveshaft's fit as they should and the engine mounts as it should, just need to get some new bolts that hold the engine into the mounts as they are uprated and need to have a shorter bolt / less shank on the bolt

real progress then!
when do you plan to fit all the anchilaries (sp?) and get it ready for firing up the engine then?

V.

Cool, Glad to hear its going well.

Must have been a busy day for you then beggars?

Well got to clean up the power steering pump as it covered in oil, same for the starter motor and waiting on a duff alternator from Carl, so i can get that refrubished.

Need to connect the driveshafts up, buy a turbo, injectors and ext wastegate, then think about cutting the loom up for the Motec, that's going to be fun!



Only about 3 - 4 hours was spent on doing the engine drop and gearbox swap yesterday, nothing today

I'm just bumping the topic so maybe mr President decides to post some pictures and report on his progress (mind you it's almost 5 MONTHS from the last post in the thread...)

I've fitted a new alternator and starter motor, if that is of any help V?

Otherwise, as i posted in my other thread, i still have quite a list of things to do, which are:

GT3076 .064
4 stud to 3 stud exhaust converter
Tial 38mm Ext Wastegate + flanges + .8bar spring
Injectors (size unknown)
Defi BF Gauges and controller (Ext Temp, Boost, Oil Pressure)
Wiring ECU
Mapping
Exhaust manifold gasket (from Rich)
Fuel Swirl Pot
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
Fuel lines / connectors
Oil line to turbo + restrictor (Hydralics place)
Rubber bushes for bottom of radiator
Engine bay conduit
Steering wheel alignment
Front Brake Kit 330mm
Adjust rear suspension
Drop rear subframe
Eibach Anti-roll bar
Trailing arm bushes
Rear subframe bushes
Reassemble engine bay
Fit rear brake kit
Bleed front and rear brakes
Sell old front kit
Exhaust wrap on down pipe
Ext. wastegate exhaust routing
Nick for welding
Set TDC on cylinder 1
Fit lower subframe brace + spacers
Engine mount bolts to change

So i am probably going to be taking a week of work at the begining of may to get some of these done, so am shopping at the moment for various bits and pieces

Whats the reason behing this choise of turbo and the .64 size?Would this give much lag,or what do you rekon?

Well the idea that the turbo will flow for about 500bhp-ish, and i would like a little extra scope for more than 400.

Obviously it's going to be a trial thing as no one has really tested it and the people who have run these turbo's on these engines have come out with about 440bhp ('grale lot)

I'm choosing the .63 housing as i think the .86 might be a tad too large, as long as i get boost by 4k i'm happy and since i'm going to be running an ext. wastegate, there shouldn't be too much issues with back pressure that would suffer on smaller turbo's that run a similar sized exhaust housing.

Best of luck with it.Hope its is a good turbo for you.

Can I ask where you bought the turbo and what price?

One more final question.Did you go for the split pulse T3 flange on the turbo?Split pulse is supposed to give better flow and faster spool up time

I haven't bought the turbo, just waiting on the group buy to finish this week, but should be £800 delivered with a UK warranty.

No, just the normal T3 housing with no split pulse.

You opted for the .63 A/R housing and normal T3 flange for fast/good spool up.Would there be much more lag if you had gone for the .78 housing and divided/split pulse flange?

How much more lagier would the .78 be so you rekon?

Im curious to know what you think about this.Thanks.

0.78 A/R turbine housing is a pile of cr*p. It was designed for a dumper truck diesel engine it turns out - the divider is too thick which means it will make less power than an undivided housing.
I found out the hard way as it was untested in the UK pretty much this time last year

You learn something new everyday.Thanks for the info and honesty.

No idea, how long is a piece of string? Since no one has used either housing, i can't work out what the boost threshold difference would be.

As for the split pilse flange, well i have my manifold already and not going to get another with the split on it

there are other split pulse housings btw.

In general like-for-like you should see at least 300rpm improvement in spoolup and more power at the top end WITH a split pulse housing. Its just that the 0.78AR one is not any good.

Little update now, all of the parts i need to finish the car off have been ordered, so expect to see some photo's sometime next week of all the newly acquired parts and the tarted up pics of various bits and pieces i've been painting

better than nothing
photos wont make the car move on its own power though, you need some "real" work Mr. A. and a photo or scan of the RR graph to prove
You got 2.5 months!

V.

That include the front bumper?

You never know, it could be mobile before you arrive Dr V. Hopefully Sedicirich will be about to give me a hand and offer some guidance too

Thats on the list of things to do

Beggars been through the M4-8 wiring diagram and std 16v loom here, should be able to use the multi relay thing, I've match up the wires so just need to check the logic. Do you need the ignition amps I didn't which makes it really simple?

How are you going to power the spark with no amps Rich?

On mine - omex 600 ign amp is part of the ecu, but I dont know about the Motech, hence the question.

rich

That doesn’t sound right there is no way the ECU can send a high voltage signal directly to the sparks you still need ignition coils no matter what. The ECU has ignition amps but that is still sent to coils before reaching the spark plugs. (I'm sure you know this and it was a miss interpretation.)