Wiring the thing up is reasonably straight forward if you have the two wiring diagrams to work with, it's getting the head mounted, cam driven Sync sensor working that's the real pain on this engine, it's a Hall type and Motec recommend the use of an oscilloscope and make sure that the Hall sensor is wired correctly and to ensure that you are triggering from the correct edge. It's got two lobes, but I have seen them with one lobe ground off to make it work with Motec.

Yes you are right, shame you didnt quite read the post right. Ignition amp deos not equal ignition coil, If you don't need the amp then you wire straight to the coil, as you said. Hmmm little random.

Does that ecu really need the cam phase sensor?

rich

Cam sensor if you want to run sequential injection and other cool features such injector trimming etc. So in beggers case, Yes

motec does not have ignition amps built in afaik

Ok, so i have been a bit busy and ordered a few parts which will be fitted in the next couple of weeks (ideally when i can get a week off work)

Collection of items still to be fitted
GT3076 next to my iPhone
Exhaust adapter to still use the 3" downpipe
38mm Tial wastegate
Motec M48 Pro
Fuel swirl pot Thanks JohnS!
Larger oil cooler Thanks for the advice DaveG!

Only snag i've found, is the wastegate pipe on the exhaust manifold fouls on the exhaust downpipe, doh! So it will have to be cut and re-welded so it doesn't foul.

hm, I thought iphones where larger , or wait that's a BIG turbo, innit?

well done, now let's see photos of the various bits in place.
BTW, what type of gasket are you going to be using for the exhaust manifold? DONT USE THE STOCK ONE, get a Spesso (got the codes in the garage, but Trevor should know )

V.

Hmmmmm..... shiney engine bits.... (another vote for drooling smiley)

I like the plate for the turbo. I had the GT30 flange chopped off mine and a 3" V-band welded on in place of it

16vt Manifold gasket = 66225, have them in stock

Well after having bought my bits i thought it was about time they were trial fitted to the car, while i was tidying other things up and remembering when all the nuts and bolts went

So going on the issue i had with the wastegate pipe, i cut this down put the turbo on and trial fitted it all, only to release i didn't need to cut it and the downpipe needs cutting and dropping down a few inches too.

So, some piccies of the progress :

Spesso exhaust gasket (as recomended by Vas)
Pro alloy rad with slimline fan attached
Painted oil breather pipes
Turbo fitted (housing to be rotated)
Manifold
Downpipe miles off

Nice

Are you gonna heat wrap the exhaust manifold?

nice,

mind you, remember to retigthen the exhaust manifold bolts as a few were finger tight 1000m after fitting the new gasket
Wont be v.easy to measure how much to cut the dp though


V.

Beggars I asked guy for a load of scnorr m8 washers for my manifold to try and off set the chance of things coming apart.

Rich

Looking good Alexis.

TurboJ, i won't be heat wrapping the exhaust manifold, don't want it to speed up the cracking process, so will leave it for the time being. If / when it does crack, i'll get another and ceramic coat it.

Vas, cheers for the tip on the nuts, but i won't be doing the DP chopping, i'm going to leave that to someone else who will do the welding for the ext wastegate.

Cheers Rich and John, gutted to hear about your news too

Not that much to report at the mo. Fitted half of the inlet manifold and found the studs i have are now too long, due to the thicker inlet gasket (helps remove heat from the head).

Fitted the wider oil cooler after destroying the old one taking the pipes off. Had to make a bracket up to mount it on the bumper protection part.

Top View
Through the bumper
Fitted without bumper
Bracket for oil cooler

Now i took the old loom out after pulling apart some of the firewall to get the old wiring out and a set of wire cutters to chop it out (just to make life easier) as sedicirich had very kindly given with a full 16vt loom with all the wires labelled up for the motec Now i've got the fun task this afternoon doing some soldering.

Motec Loom
16vt loom
16vt loom all labelled up!

Good luck with that! I bloody hate wiring and soldering.

so looks like engine will be firing up this year after all!
Before mid August by any chance?
What are you using to wrap up the wires in the engine bay? I used some "normal" wire on some extensions and after 12K km it has turned brittle at the spots passing close to the cylhead (not even close to the exhaust/turbo...)

V.

Mmmmmmmm MOTEC.

I'm still going to be using the standard Fiat loom, so no need to worry about the wires going brittle, the motec end of the wiring will be in the car. As for you getting your spin in Mid-Aug? I doubt it now V!

I managed to pop down to Think Auto yesterday with a few bits that i needed making up, after having hassle around my way going to local hydralic shops and not being able to do what i ask.

So £200 later, i managed to get all these bits

Long braided hose, is the clutch line from the bulkhead to the clutch slave cylinder.
Shorter braided hose, is the oil feed from the block to the turbo.
Silver bracket is to hold the fuel pump.
Blue anodised container is the inline fuel filter.
Blue anodised hole thing, is for the banjo for the oil feed hose.
The 2 bolts below are for the water feed / return on the turbo.
2 Bronze 8mm pipes are to change on the fuel filter to allow 8mm fuel hose.
Big silver screw is for the fuel pump to step the size down.
Silver pipe feed to the right, is to allow a 10mm fuel hose to be pushed on.
Banjo on the bottom left and the red cap on the right, are for the fuel exit of the fuel pump.
The 2 silver double ended tail pipes, is to take the fuel hose from 10mm down to 8mm.
The last bronze piece is to screw onto my fuel rail then allow a 8mm fuel pipe to be attached.
On the right is a 4" silcon joiner for the compressor side of the turbo.
I also, have 3m of 10mm fuel line and 8m of 8mm fuel line, this cost £2 per metre compaired with £12 per metre for braided hosing

I'm also waiting for these bad boys to turn up (in amber) I've ordered a boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, an exhaust temp gauge and the controller for them too, should expect them in the next couple of days.

Now i can get on with re-assembling the whole engine bay back together, so should expect some more news soon

Ooooh Shiny.

progress is amazing










(slow....)

By Oct you'll have them fitted then

V.

Mmmmm Defi gauges are awesome, also Exceptionally handy when setting up your car!

Coming along well Begbie

New water hoses for the heater matrix and braided hose for the clutch slave cylinder.
Other end of braided hose
Defi BF oil sensor fitted along with having to move the other oil sensors about due to clearance.
Turbo fitted and plumbed up
Radiator mounted hacked to fit pro alloy radiator This is something i only found out when i went to fit it, and instead of calling Pro-alloy up to get the radiator mounts re-done, i thought i would just hack my mounts up instead. There was also no excuse for them to be wrong as i sent Pro-alloy a radiator that i had used.
Lining up fuel swirl pot, fuel pump and fuel filter

All that effort with new hoses and your using those grubby looking hose clamps.....Shame on you !

They will be changed, so shhhh

Getting there, getting there.

why you left your oil cooler on that kind of angle ?
I think we have about same size coolers, and there was no broblem to fit that more straight.
http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/jq4tm/?action=view&current=jhytkeulalla.jpg

Yeah that is a funny way to mount the cooler, I just chopped off the "bolt" bit on the outside end of the original bracket, drilled a new mouting hole between the two existing ones on the "top" of the cooler at the "inside" end, and on the "outside" end I chopped off the two brackets at the top and the bottom to avoid fouling the inside of the bumper. This trial fit pic shows the rough position, and I've re-used the original air ducting in front and even though only 2/3 of the cooler gets the fressh air, it should give better cooling than having the cooler at the oblique angle you've got it. I just used tie wraps to hold it in place, so it won't win me any concours competitions. A better solution would be to extend the original mounting bracket in some way, or create an intermediate mounting bracket. Oh, I also cut down the rubber "bump stop" to make the new thicker cooler sit more vertical.