What size/litre capicity is the alloy fuel surge tank?
Looks nice.

Not sure, but this is the place it comes from.

Well, tiny update, after trying to tighten up the crank pulley bolt, the cambelt jumped 2 teeth due to my crap way of locking the drive.

Emailed Guy Croft about it and to only way to be completely sure there was a bent valve was to get the engine up to him to check. Well cue last Saturday, nice warm sunny day, myself and sedicirich managed to get the engine out of the car in 2hrs 15mins, not bad going i'd say Massive thanks to Rich again for helping me out of a jam there!

Engine went up to Guy Croft today, I turned up at 12:30pm and Guy stopped what he was doing (grinding / porting up a head) and then spent the next 3 hours with me, taking the head off, testing valve compression, checking there had been no valve clash, setting the engine attrue TDC and putting it all back together again with tightening up the crank bolt i fudged up with a clever use of bolts and an adjustable spanner to lock the flywheel. Guy = Legend

The head was given the all clear, now i just need to re-assemble everything again and put it back in the coupe, so a 2 week set back as i won't have time to put the engine back in this weekend, so 3 hours labour or a few grand for a possible fubar'd engine, I know the right choice has been made

you can get a longer 5th gear from hormann I believe for the 5 speeders. Just no one has bothered. Internally the boxes are the same. There is a standard way to strengthen the box as well

Can you tell me how to strengthen my 5 speed 20VT box please

1. Ensure sump plug is secure. Check all oil and water hose connections and oil filter for security. Fill cooling system with 50% Fiat Paraflu mix. Fill engine oil to level on dipstick. Use non-synthetic 10W/40 oil for break-in eg Castrol GTX. It is recommended for initial start-up that the feed to the oil pressure accumulator (if fitted) be blanked off via the gate valve to prevent the accumulator drawing oil from the engine. The accumulator is not needed during run-in (break-in) and the additional oil for the accumulator can be added later when the engine is run-in
2. Competition cams should be liberally coated with a good brand of cam lube or smeared with molybdenum disulphide grease and this should be done prior to first cranking. Do not then leave the engine sitting for days because the cam lube will drain away. Remove the cambox cover and use engine oil to fully lubricate the camboxes and valve train, fill the oil filter, cooler, turbo feed-line, remote filter (if used) and as many of the oil lines as practicable.
3. Remove spark plugs. Isolate the electric fuel pump and the ignition coil live feed. If the engine has been sitting for more than a month you must ensure the pump is primed by removing the oil filter housing or accessing the feed hose to the oil pump and squirting oil down the drilling to the pump. You must not hook up oil lines until oil comes out of this gallery when the engine is cranked over.
4. Crank up oil pressure with the plugs out and the throttle wide open. Do not crank the engine for more than 7-8 secs continuously and for more than 20sec altogether, the oil pressure should come up by this time. Do not start the unit until oil pressure registers on the oil pressure gauge. An excellent method of priming on the early TC engine is to spin the aux driveshaft with a high-torque electric drill, although this does mean removing the cambelt. (Do not do this on units of 79.2mm stroke or longer unless aux d/s has been modified to remove fuel pump lobe)