can you take the brembos off a 20vt and put them on a 20vna.
im running turbo plus wheels so clearance isnt an issue.

would i only need to change the calipers. . . or would i need to change the disks and various other parts too?

Cheers

Mario

No, there's a whole lot more to be changed Mario, struts, hubs, driveshafts (I seem to recall) and possibly track rod ends.

If you do a search, probably even just scroll through this section you'll find a very recent thread on this about the 16v/vt which is very similar and should give you some good info.

If you can source the parts from someone like Joe then it won't be horrendously expensive, just the fitting to sort after that.

However.........the big question is "why"?

The brakes on the 20v are very, very good when serviced properly and they don't squeal either

You can paint the callipers to make them look better, although not as sexy as Brembo's they still look okay and best of all they work without wakening up the neighbourhood!

thanks for the info stan, i was more curious than anything. Its interesting to see how different the na and turbos are.

The brakes on the 20v are as you said very good. . . although my front right has started to squeek a bit recently. Im sure a quick clean up will sort thatone out.

Thanks Again,

Mario

Thing is until you've driven a coupe with brembos you don't realise just how much better they are over n/a callipers.

Parts needed for a conversion:

Brembos and discs.
Hubs.
Struts with n/a springs.
Track rod ends.
Brake hoses and solid pipework to callipers.
Adapted drive shafts.
20vt rims or 16v rims with 20mm spacers.

Job done

why have i seen it mentioned a number of times that the struts/springs need to be replaced when doing brake upgrades or 20vT conversions?

all of the 20v hubs/struts have 35mm mountings, i still use my Marea Struts & springs on my conversion....

Ry

The N/A struts will not take the 20vt hub, they are smaller on the width where the hub seat and the bolt holes are miles out, if you bolted 20vt hubs straight onto your Marea then they must be the same size as the 20vt.

are you sure?

i cant imagen they fitted the 25mm hubs like on the lower spec models to the 20v N/A coupe, would be interested to have a look if you have some pics to compare?

Ry

Interesting to know about the 20v N/A hubs, as i'm guessing they would be a very close, if not identical match to the 16v hubs, as these are 25mm and use a 10mm bolt

Yes they did Ryan, the 20v n/a struts, hubs and discs are smaller then the 20vt, and i'll check on the 16v to see what size these are but from memory I think the struts and disc diameter are the same you just need to change the hub so that you can fit the brembo calliper.

Been a while since someone added to this thread.
I have a 20V-Vis and have Alfa 166 Brembos on using adapters.
Having had a 20VT previously that I had to scrap, I have all the suspension and braking with the original 20VT Brembos so looked at putting all this on and getting the Alfa 166 calipers back for a different project.
I exchanged the struts, hubs etc and all went well until I was near final assembly and found that the placement of the ABS sensor positioning is incorrect.
Pictures attached to show the difference between the hubs and the placement of the ABS sensor.

Has anyone done this and gotten to the end with success?

Why Can't I attach images?

In the reply box, click 'use full editor' then 'Attachment Manager - upload pics then

I was doing that! 🤬

You have a PM

These are the attached files.

Looks like the driveshafts from the 20V Vis, although the correct spline, does not suit the 20VT hub.
I now see in a post above that "adapted driveshafts" are required.
What does "adapted" mean?
I'm going to hazard a guess and say that the splined part from a 20VT is put onto the 20V shaft.

Didn't know that Track ends were also required. They are on to the steering rack on the spare subframe.

That screws it for me so at the moment as I don't have the shafts anymore, they went with the gearbox a long time ago.

Not a complete waste of time as I changed the inner boots on the two shafts, which would have required a lot of this work anyway.
Also discovered that the bit of "looseness" when driving was a worn knuckle joint on the Right (offside) wishbone.

At lease it is all greased being put back together so it should come apart more easily next time after I source the drive shaft bits.

Dave