having experienced fantastic results with setting my camber, I've decided to hire out my camber gauge.

Its an expensive piece of kit, so I would clearly need a deposit if you want it sending out.

However, for now, I've left it at Motormech in Birmingham. Paul is now experienced at setting camber on the Coupe using camber bolts.

It would be messy for Paul to charge for the use of the gauge and then send me the cash, so the easiest way is simply to leave a token of your appreciation with Paul and he'll hang onto it for me. (means I can get Paul to do some work for me without wifey seeing the credit card bill )

So, if you want your car to turn in MUCH better than standard, get hold of the camber bolts (£20) and call Paul at Motormech 0121 633 9823

I purchased some camber bolts from Nigel's e-bay link (see even better handling thread), picked up Nigels gauge from his house and Paul fitted them at Motormech on Friday

The car is only roughly tracked at the moment and I've not had chance to do a proper test due to the ice/snow on the roads, but I'm still very impressed
The initial turn in has improved massively, it feels like the car responds quicker and there is no hint of understeer

Through the corner the car feels totally planted and very pointy - it just goes where you want it to and already feels very precise (which will be even better come the weekend when its tracked properly)

In a straight line the car feels fine, with no tendency to follow imperfections in the road

My car's handling was good before, but these have made a significant improvement - for the cost, this has to be a 100% recommended improvement for anyone running a modified suspension set up

My setup - strut brace, Nigel lower brace, eibach/bilstein combo and a whiteline rear ARB. All my suspension components were refreshed less than two years ago.

The ride can be a little harsh/crashy but I'm prepared to live with that (car is my daily driver) and having sat in the passenger seat, its actually not too bad

Many thanks to Nigel for the use of his gauge and his generous nature, letting other forum members benefit from his equipment/experience

would this work well on a standard coop?

not really - camber is best played with in conjunction with other handling mods

It would make a difference, but wouldn't be as noticeable as it is on a car that's already played with

ok just thinking i am getting rub on the outside edge on my tyres so i thought when i get my tracking done and i am see paul soon so i thought i could get it done

then you have a far more fundamental problem - wheels too big, tyres too wide, or suspension too low (or all three)

it completely standard
i had the wishbones replaced 10 months ago without the trascking done so could this cause it?

When I changed my suspension components I had it tracked afterwards and the operator said it was WAY out. It wasn't rubbing though.

Ah - I see - you're wearing the outside edge - I thought you meant the tyres were touching the bodywork

In that case - yes, its probably tracking (although it could still be poor camber, rear arm bearings or even old accident damage

would the rear arm bearings affect the front?
i have done lots of checkes and it isn't acciedent damaged and its hpi cleared so i think its ok
must be tracking and camber but it doesn't pull to one side or anything nasty

Definitely - if one (or both) rear wheels are not pointing in the right direction, the car will be steering slightly from the rear, which will require constant steering input to keep the car straight - this will very quickly wear the tyres

oh i will get paul and motormech to check then! its has twiched at the back end before on hard connering!

Just to bump this up (more people should be fitting camber bolts!) I had my car tracked at the weekend and have had the opportunity to drive some roads I know well

The difference is amazing For the cost, anyone with a modified suspension set up should be getting camber bolts fitted asap!

Nigel described the difference to me as being like the first time you drove the car after fitting an uprated rear anti-roll bar and I agree - it really is that good

The kit should be on its way to me next, I have FK's and plan to fit the Bravo top mounts. The FK's already have a long slot which seems to provide a massive camber adjustment, but Nigel reckons I still might need camber bolts, anyone have any idea?

I've not measured it, but judging from looking at Ross' car when the it was at maximum negative camber on the fks then no you wouldn't want to run more camber than that.

anywhere in london where i can get my camber adjusted? not willing to go far cant mechanics that do tracking adjust camber? sorry im a little confused probably because i dont have a clue how it all works.

Nick, have a read of this site: http://www.alignmycar.co.uk/

thanks!! stan

I just found a sheet from when I last got my tracking done about 6 months ago. it says next to camber -1.2 on left side and -1.46 on right, does this mean that the guy who own the car befor me had already set the camber or is there a possibility that when changing my suspention it moved somehow??

Unless you've got uprated suspension (or camber bolts fitted) then it's not adjustable. I cant remember the factory specs but it's quite a wide range (possible 0deg to -1deg) - outside that and something is worn/bent.

factory is 0.5 degrees negative, but I'm not sure what the tolerance is

0 to -1 degrees from the factory.

Just wondered, does dailing in some negative camber have any adverse effect on straight line braking or acceleration grip?

I'm very tempted by this though - sounds very possitive

At some point, excess negative (or positive) camber will have an effect on stability

After all, by dialing in a bit extra, we're making the car more responsive (ie less stable)

However, with 1.5 degrees negative, I can't say my car feels any less planted at high speed, but it DOES feel lots more agile around the twisty bits