..

that will be me

has anyone got the list of what order the coops came in at on the rr? think i came 4th at 261bhp, when it should of been 271bhp!!!!

Ill come to the next one of it localish again

Just to carry on from what Nigel was saying, I'm not really sure what went wrong with mine. Apparently the clutch was slipping from just under 4,000 revs, at which point it was producing around 305lbs/ft torque (262bhp), but I'm scratching my head as to how this is possible - given that I had a brand new Helix Organic clutch fitted by Motormech 3 weeks ago (and yes, it was the full kit )

On my way home I did a few tests, uphill in 6th etc etc and I really cannot feel even an ounce of slip, so I'm baffled as to what the issue was.

I'm going to book in to a different roller just for a second opinion, and if they say the same thing then I'll go back to Motormech to diagnose the problem. I'm not too worried about it though, the car is running great

shouldnt the lines on the graphs cross at 5250 otherwise they arent right?!

Only if the scale is the same for bhp and torque.

Its abit funny that a 20 minute slot ended up been a 5/10 minute slot, thought they would of sorted my greddy out aswell.

I thought that due to the way bhp was calculated it was always 5250 or the graphs were wrong, as there are numerous ways operaters can boost or reduce readouts?!

Im not too up on this, also isnt the reason they run in forth as its the closest to direct drive?

The RR day is for a power run, not a 20 minute slot, you (FCCUK) put it down as time slots as it normally takes that long/you wanted them, cross out as appropriate. I never put down time slots as they are always on the ball at DD unlike many other RR's we've been to..... They also take quite a bit of time to explain and help where they can, but they arent there to fix problems on a day like that, even if they do frequently.

And power figures are going to be down compared to many, its a dynodynamics RR in shootout mode and gives realistic figures

ignore my comment about dyno operaters as I now know what shootout mode is

Fair enough, i didnt know that at the time.. Half the reason i went down was to get the greddy fixed. Think am just bugged that you beat us!

Have you got any pics, you can post on here?

Cheers

Here are the ones I have, I should have taken more.....

Thanks

Heres the coops top nine,(was bored)..

N18 - 326.5 (BHP at the flywheel)
T27 - 286.1
V77 - 262.4
P67 - 262.1
X69 - 259.3
A10 - 233.9
R87 - 230.3
R85 - 223.7
V68 - TOO LEAN

OVERALL TOP THREE

200SX - 371.9
SKYLINE - 362.8
20VT - 326.5

According to Steve at DD, most of the performance Jap machinery have fuly mappable ECU's. This is why they can make so much power, and thats reliable power too.
So the 200SX boys, have a distinct advantage over us.

Andy.

In order to do a "compare and contrast" exercise, I've arranged another North West RR Day at this place;

http://www.ricwood.com/

For those of you interested, get your names down on the seperate thread;

http://www.fiatcoupeclub.org/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=779780#Post779780

I take it back, they have changed their RR............

The top 3 were 200sx, Skyline, 200sx then it was the 20VT......

opps, i missed the 331 bhp out by mistake

Just looking at Nigel's results.

He got 287 bhp at powerstation and 276 bhp at Dyno Demon, as he said.

Surely it cannot be a coincidence that these figures are so close?

If they are both correctly measured then clearly the method of working out transmission losses between the 2 different kinds of rollers is massively different.

I suppose though that it could quite easily be coincidence, but still, odd

Matt - I thought that as well - its entirely possible that I have circa 280bhp @ wheels, but which one is the correct flywheel figure?

I don't suppose it makes a lot of difference, as the wheel power is what drives the car, but I'd like to know

I'll be putting it on a Dastek dyno in April, so it will be interesting to see what that comes up with (won't have done any more mods, so I'll run the same boost as well, just for consistency of results)

Hi Nigel,

One thing I need to say, I don't buy those figures of yours .
There are quite a many things which are against them:
your setup, your boost rate and your 1/4 Mile results.
They are all speaking more or less 400 bhp or more.

About the boost, in your graph it shows that you used boost of some 1.6 bar in RR run and you have "only" given some 330 lb-ft (447 Nm). With that amount of boost I have had with GT28RS and my friend even with GT28R torque of +345 lb-ft (+470 Nm).
Wheel spin I understand very well, because the RR where were use to visit need to run our cars with fifth gear just because there is no wheel grip with lower gears. The dyno is Bosch FLA 206 and it is based on inertia.
So the dyno run with third gear or fourth might have caused the situation, which is normal for example in slippery road, straight after the grip is lost the boost goes down. Maybe this was the reason for so early stop in RR.

There is possible for the boost leak, which I did have in my last +400 bhp RR session. Look the curves in "My Coupe Project" by hani, I have posted my graph there with couple of pictures of the broken hose.

The 1/4 mile terminal speed, your terminal speed of +115 mph is way higher than what can be reached with 326 bhp! I never could go faster than 109 - 111 mph with three times measured app. 350 bhp setup. Same data speaks the given results in "Hall of Fame" form the cars app. 320 - 340 bhp.

So, don't give up . There will be a proper RR some where, which is calibrated right and gives you the "real" curves. And I bet that next 1/4 mile run gives you the truth by terminal speed, what is the power level you should stand.

- Jari -

I have noticed, that Dynos that cause a lot of slip etc, are ones that use two rollers. Single rollers eliminate this, as the tyre sits ontop, as opposed to sitting on the side of the roller. See this;-
http://www.tracknroad.com/
This RR, is considered by many to be the most accurate RR in the country. Its why so many race cars are set up on it!
Only real way to eliminate any errors, is to use a Hub Dyno .

Andy.