Good stuff Alexis. You are showing plenty of patience mate,keep that up. It will pay off for you.

Nope, do not know the power, but I'll try and get something done within the next month. So just annoyed at being let down again by people picking the car up.

I bet its barely pushing the engine at 1 bar. What max boost do you reckon it'll run or are you gonna see how the mapping goes and let the mapper decide?

And please don't plan any April fools 'My engine just blew up on the dyno'....

I did contemplate an April fool, just so pissed off at the moment with not getting the car back when I expected, so think this year will be the first time I don't do anything.

Max boost I'm going to set at 1.5 and leave it there. Phil reckons it will be lairy enough on 1bar, let alone 1.5bar

The harder you brake or the more front braking force you have the greater the front weight transfer. Thus the load will be across the front axle, this unloads the rear and to such a point where if the rear is generating an increased retardation force then the rear wheels will lock. Locked rear at speed notably into a corner will send the car into an uncontrollable spin which is dangerous and I have experienced it with only changing the rear pads to ds3000's. So if beggars fits his big 6pot with grippy pads and stomps on the brakes from 100mph he wants the rear wheels to be doing vitaully no work as their grip with the road will be significantly reduced. The std compensator changes the bias as the anti roll bar moves to counter act, but its set for std ride height (starting balance) and std spring rate and caliper configuration.

The only time to fit larger rear brakes is if you tow a lot, have regualr heavy loads in the back of the car, or if you have some notable rear aero (one exception 2pot rears can be much lighter then cast iron calipers so weight saving could be an indication). Those who have fitted larger rears etc do so for aesthetics or dont really brake that hard (pad compound makes a huge diff too). There's no debate here, from looking at some of the touring cars I raced with from late 90's they have twin pot, small solid rear discs drilled to reduce surface area and they even have functional aero.

Hope this helps.

Beggars did you use a diff co to the previous one, its real guess, a shipply guy picked up the mini last week but was pretty good, had a huge ifor williams and a van. Could get his number from Tim if you wanted an alternative.

Rich

Just read the build thread for 2011, I was a bit behind! Congratulations Alexis. What a project it's been. Well done for sticking with it.

Have you taken her for an MOT yet?

John

No, not MOT yet, hopefully going for one this Thursday afternoon

One of the issues I had with the 20vt was that there was so much weight over the front on heavy braking that the rear end would lift and squirm about in anything other than a dead straight line. Upgrading the rear brakes really helped this, and they were not upgraded to the extent that they ever locked.

You could also handbrake turn the car - no way with the stock rear brakes.

Glad I could help over the weekend mate!

Looking forwardto seeing the car this week or at brooklands!!

sorry Suba I fail to see how that makes sense?? It sounds like the wet road rear bias method, when racing in the wet the rear bias is upped to make the weight transfer more even onto the fronts to stop them locking, but this method is associated with far less braking force then dry braking. Braking hard in the dry with good tyres and too much retardation from the raer will have the car squirming with locked rears. If you change the brakes and the problem goes with the same pressure, you have less rear braking force then before, that or the rear end is dropping speed before the weight shifts forwards but I doubt very much that is of any real effect.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOnlnshvsIc

Look at the accident at 1:02 in, I think that sums it up really.

4.50
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWz-S7CgmbI

Just from personal experience...my car behaved FAR better on track with upgraded rear brakes, and they never locked up.

Just watched your latest vid. Is the speedo not working? Also the injector light was on ?

Both correct Joe. Speedo isn't working at the moment, think I need a new sensor and the injector light is on, due to running an aftermarket ECU

That last puzzles me, Alexis - does the new ECU expect to drive a fault light? If not, just disconnect the dash light input by the MAP sensor.

Use the MIL light for Shift light or WI/NOS on light or ECU malfunction.

congrats Alexis,

came just to read this, curious on the figure once you get it all sorted.
Mind you, there are a few lights that can be recycled on the dash, I have the turbo spin light, yes there is one, linked to EBV so that I know when it's trying to built pressure (daft I know...) and the boxy cat like one to the IC water injection to have an idea when it comes in to play. I agree with Neil that you should simply remove the light for the injector (or find some other use for it, water injection which you don't have, nitro, which you don't have, you get the idea )

cheers

V.

Beggars doesn't your project thread need a final update?

It could do

What cams and cr do you run. 7.0.1?

CR is approx. 7.2:1 and the cams are the C&B medium road ones.

Any progress with yours begbie any plans on the horizon

Turn you boost up faggot!!

Nick

LOL

ive missed that abuse.