I will just throw in a short question. I remember there was a DIY guide on how to change dampers and coils yourself;but Im not able to locate it. Any one here changet it themself? I would like to know beforehand before buying!! Thanx!

ahhhh.There it is. ok :thank you very much!

If you're buying, be sure to check out Cosmo's new price in the For Sale section (which you've probably already done).

If you've got spring compressors to hand, is changing dampers a straight forward DIY job?

DC

It's fairly straight-forward but time consuming if it's the first time attempted. I recommend two pairs of compressors for safety or better still take the loaded strut assembly to a garage to change the dampers over as it can be extremely dangerous if you're not sure exactly what you're doing.

Hmm, I have a garage at the end of my road, so maybe I'll just take a day off work and pop in there midway through the job to get the springs swapped.

DC

How much does a garage charge to fit springs? If i'm going to get the bilsteins to, would i be better off waiting for both and getting them done at the same time to save money?

you have to take the springs off to change the damper so if your going to change the damper,their should be no charge at all for swapping the springs,if done at the same time

Is there any idea in waitning to mount my new Bilsteins until I get my uprated rear ARB from Novitec? i.e. a lot of dismantling with the ARB?

Before I contemplate swapping the dampers and springs myself, can I go through a quick step by step?

1) Jack up car and put on axle stands.
2) Remove wheel.
3) Jack up wheel-end to compress spring and attch 2 spring compressors.
4) Lower jack so that spring is now loose but compressed by the compressors.
5) Remove damper unit from car.
6) Whip off top mount and transfer spring to shiny new Bilstein B6.
7) Fit (new) top mount to Bilstein damper.
8) Refit is reverse of removal. (ie jack up wheel end so that damper is compressing the spring, then remove the spring compressor).

Will that be all?

DC

Anyone that's had this done at a garage, how much is fitting of new dampers?

Couple of things, You need to slacken off your damper top nut (18mm socket) before you remove the strut assmembly from the car and with the weight of the wheels on the ground, otherwise you'll never loosen it off the car as the piston rod rotates.

You also don't need to fit the compressors to the spring until after the strut is removed, but considering all that spring force is held on by a single nut, I always fit them loosely just before removing the strut, just in case.

Make sure that the spring is compressed enough to release the tension from the top mount before you undo it.

To remove the top nut whilst stopping the piston rod rotating, you'll need to grind two flats on either side of your 18mm socket so you can grip it with mole grips, then you can get aan allen key in to hold the rod.

Cosmo, will a 19mm deep socket do the job on the top bolt? I haven't got an angle grinder and I don't particularly want to start buying more and more tools.

Sod it, I'll probably just get a garage to do it. It has to be easier that way.

If you use a 19mm you are in danger of stripping the corners of the nut. Its an 18mm nut. It has to be said this job is best left to the experts unless you are confident in what you are doing. I think Barbz lost the end of his finger messing with springs so even the experts can come a cropper.

Some comments here; the bolt on original Fiat dampers are indeed 18 mm. The new bilsteins got 19mm.
Allso; the suggestion on not to mount the compressors is not that good. There is a tension on the lower two bolts if the spring is not compressed 1 or 2 inches. Allso this makes the job easier when mounting the spring compressors in virto.Tip of the day; Use a battery drill on the compressors!
Edit: Allso;I found it easier to fully thighten the top bolt before mounting the assembly on the car. Its quite difficult to tighten the bolt afterwards if you dont got the right tools.

A small note on handling improvement: Got the Bilsteins b6 on 4 corners with the H&R springs. I would say as all others here that the car really handles much better. Last week I drove a A.R Brera and was stunned how she felt. It was fealing really "thight" and and in small holes and in curves it just felt like a floating Iron. Thats why I changed my dampers and springs on my Coupe. And now my Coupe is feeling the same! Allso the braking have much improved.If I did a highspeed braking I had problems with keeping the car on the road. This is all gone now!!

Yeah, I chickened out and paid my local garage to fit the fronts. I could have saved £100 fitting the myself, but I also could have got it wrong and lost a finger or two.


I've not really driven the car much since changing the damper but I'll be driving to work tomorrow on London's fabulously rotten, potholed, speed-bump infected roads. I'm sure that'll be enough to help me form an opinion.

In my view, they take few days of use to settle down - mine seemed to get better and better for the first week or more, so don't form an opinion to quickly <img src="/forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />