Hi Carlos,

can you explain the screw-type system to me???
Does this mean, you took big screws and you tapped the block to get it into it???
What screws did you take?!
Afterwards you re-bored the block?!
Thank you
Juergen

Hi Juergen,

1-can you explain the screw-type system to me???
I do not remember now, but if you want to know I ask my mechanic...no prblem for me...

2-Does this mean, you took big screws and you tapped the block to get it into it???
yes, because as they come under pressure, and with screw threads to the place where the working piston,because it is only in that area we have the pressures and is also where they usually crack,no danger where the piston works,if I remember the bolt has more or less from 1.5 to 2cm in compliance,I can also confirm later if you want...

3-What screws did you take?!
my mechanic did the steel bolts and measure,because in some places the width of the screw is different...

4-Afterwards you re-bored the block?!
yes,because after making the holes for the bolts, the cylinder walls are a little warped,and so I bought the pistons 83.60mm (original is 83.00mm), because I had to extend the walls of block,and so was 100% right and no problems..


thanks...

Carlos

Let me be more exact then.
The clearance between the piston crown and block face is the area of concern. This area is critical for the combustion process.
Has anyone more info regarding this piston/block setup i.e measurements...

Sticl- what boost are you running on your 2.4?

Thx

Hi Barbz...




it was there that I reinforced my engine block

cheers

Are you saying a lack of squish might have caused this ?

@carlos: could you please ask your mechanic because of the screws he took?! This would be very interesting.
Please do not forget to drill the oil channel for the turbocharger.

@Barbz: I realized 565HP with 1,55bar of boost. Now I want to reach 650HP with about 1,7 - 1,8bar...

Juergen

It will if it is the catalyst for det.

1NRO-Correct and thank you.
To expand, unusually high combustion temps/pressures as gases unable to escape, leading to fatigue.

Looks like the squish/quench on this setup is non existent which has had the opposite effect in the quest for power. That explains why they ran so much boost to make the figures, 2.53bar according to the graph.

The distance from the top ring to the block face is huge, around 12mm where as on a std engine its around 6mm.

Thanks

So compression something like 1 : 5? Or am I mixing things up? Trying to understand...

In regards to figures and measurements, MWT may furnish them upon request.

Hi Juergen,

no problem,I"ll talk to him and then tell you something ok...



I've been thinking about it,and I think it is better get some oil to the tube that goes to the radiator olio,is relatively near the turbo and so no need to drill the block...is there any problem with that?or is it better to drill the block?
guys tell me your opinion...

cheers..

Carlos Vieira

At least 7mm piston to head then, that is mahoosive. Do you think they did that to try and lower the CR ? If so a properly thought out build wouldn't really need the block gaurd.

Maybe they were panicing about rod length and played it on the safe side

Note the flat topped piston design also, bizzare for a turbo setup which are normally dished for desired compression ratio.

One last note from my side to this topic:
Please have a look to the 16VT head - it is much better in this area, because it has the brace, we would need for our 20VT.
Therefore the 16VT block just for itself can do much more power than the 20VT block.
Juergen

Thank you - this would be fine.
Regarding oil:
I cannot remember the oil circuit completely - could it be that in your drill- position the oil is already polluted? Or is it directly after the filter... (I cannot remember)
Important is to choose a oil supply which is clean (after filter) and has the desired pressure...
Pressure should be no problem, but is the oil clean there?!

Juergen

Ahhhh, the good old 16v block, strong as an ox :-)

Just for a comparison

I´ve just found similar crack in TDC in my stilo 1.8 16v (only mods AR 2L TS camshafts and 2l TS GTV manifold + gp. A exhaust)

it seems to be common issue of these "open deck" blocks...

so new 2ltr bottom end in 1.8 will have these supports shown on page #1 to prevent this....

sorry for typing in old thread

Has anyone tried Darton sleeves? I'm rebuilding my engine and in worry that with block guard rebore is needed as Stichl wrote. My block is 83mm so I have to buy new block to do this and in thinking about Dartons

I used block guards on my old block.

This current one was sent off to the USA and sleeved.
Cost £1500 but guaranteed for 3 bar of boost and 1200 whp.

Coped well with a boost spike of 2.5 bar when my wastegate stuck shut.