Hello Team,

I know this must have been covered before, but I'm going to ask anyway;

with regard to the 20V & 20VT, is there a known high mileage "serious" engineering issue which classically affects these cars?

What I mean is, at say 130K, are you probably going to be looking at crank oil seal replacement of big end bearing failures? I know about the oil-cooler issue and I'm not really talking about the rest of the mechanics but more specifically the engine.
I've had a few 5 cylinder FIATs before back in the day and they all gave me the impression of being totally solid. Has the passage of time proved that to be the case...?

I'm rounding down on a purchase now and am wondering if the higher mileage examples come with their own special engine issues...

Thanks

JimP

A well-maintained 20VT lump is bulletproof if kept as standard (or close to it). A friend here has done over 170k (in the hot Malaysian heat) and only just did an engine rebuild, and even then only because he mostly wanted to rather than because he had to.

There are of course strong modified engines, but the process of modification involves so many variables that it is unwise to say that they will last as long.

Lots of folks on here are running 200k+. Nigel's engine has done some astronomical miles on big power. Okay so maybe he cheated with forged bits etc, but it bears testimony to the fundamental engineering of the engine.

Mileage is largely irrelevant; condition and service history is all. The actual lump rarely causes problems, and trouble normally comes from the other bits (turbos, etc.).

Thankyou DeaDLocK, thankyou tim42,

that reflects what I thought to be the case...

Expanding that slightly and not including the 6-speed 'box of the 'Plus, should I watch for anything with gearboxes...?

Thanks

JimP

5 speed gearboxes are fairly strong, but also reasonably cheap to replace so I wouldn't worry. Keep an eye on the oil level and condition and it should last well.

The only think I would say is expect a few leaks from various seals. Not because of the mileage in particular, more the age of the seals. But if you're fanatic with your oil changes they'll do much better. As will the rest of the engine.

The 5 is reputedly stronger than the 6, but it's not like those of us with 6ers have experienced many problems. The majority of the Coupes on the road in my part of the world are Pluses, so all 6-speeders, and I've read no reports of boxes going wonky.

I've owned both 5 and 6 and if you intend to keep the car for a while, it's worth the upgrade to a 6 if you get a 5-speeder. Part of it is 6-speed "cachet", but practically speaking having the extra cog for motorway munching makes it worthwhile IMO.

Mine was running perfectly fine at 168k on original engine until a hose burst and cooked the rings. Easiest thing to know, check all oil and water hoses are in good order and dont run tooo much boost through it without mapping everything else should be good.

There are other circumstances like belt changes etc.

I'm at 126k on the original and essentially standard engine, it's still holding great oil pressure, and pulling well with no signs of smoke.

As others have said keep ontop of the oil changes / water hoses and they are soild engines.

Enjoy your new Coupe!

thankyou everybody...

Gunzi- I haven't bought the car yet...- what makes good oil pressure on a 20VT from cold??

Thanks DeaDLocK- is the 6 a straight replacement for the 5-speed box??

These engines are affected only by poor maintenance.
No engine failures I have seen have been caused by poor quality or manufacturing defects.
Better economy than most modern hatchbacks with a Punch if needed that will see off even the modern big guns.

Added to that with a few hundred spent on suspension it will perform on the road as good as any new car and drive as such.
I can't think of any other 15 year old car that you can quote such praise about.

Faced with the option of a low mileage and high mileage engine there is clearly a no brainer of a decision to take (all things equal).

Whilst there are some high mileage engines out there they will definitely be 'tired', relatively speaking. They may not smoke and may pull well, but the mileage dictates that they will be more worn than one with half the mileage (all things equal).

Revs also kill engines, high revs (and boost) create the harshest environment with biggest loads, on bearings, crank and notably the rings. Hard revving will result in blow by which will wear the piston top ring groove resulting in more blow by. The same environment will also result in higher wear rates at the top of the cylinder, where the rings are exerting most outward force, characterised by the ridge that is typically found on worn engines. Another characteristic typical of high mileage engines is cylinder ovality and taper, again due to higher wear, this may only be a few thou' but enough to be significant - after all a good engine will have excellent tolerances. The secret of an exceptional engine is all the tolerances being spot on. Lots of people don't get this, they just bolt stuff together and hope for the best - and sometimes it mitigates problems for a while, but hardly ideal.

The fact is that even on an engine that is religiously serviced, mileage wears components. At some point components fail or wear to the extent that they are no longer serviceable, a high mileage engine will be closer to that than a low mileage engine.

Then lets also be realistic, these engines and cars dont lend themselves to sedate driving, always below 2k. They were designed to excite and 'be driven'.

Personally I wouldn't tough a high mileage engine with a stinky stick, the engine is but only one part of the assembly and high mileage means wear in other areas too. Those that have high mileage cars that run them successfully are probably keen to maintain them properly, or more than properly.

Maintenance is absolutely key, but given the choice, id spend money on a low mileage car that has evidence of good maintenance.

The absolute best option would obviously be to find a low mileage, bought by a granny who had never thrashed it.

Good luck in finding that tho'

Cold oil pressure will be high, you need to wait for the engine to get up to temperature and check.

There will be different views on this but the higher the pressure on hot idle the healthier the engine, or at least the journal to bearing wear and end floats.

There are lots of engines out there that run a minimum of 2.5 bar of pressure at hot idle, so aim for as high as possible.

I personally wouldn't be keen on any engine that had less that 2bar, again preference to any that had 2.5 or over. Be patient when checking this, it can take a while for every thing to get up to temperature.

mine has 158k on it. runs perfect with brilliant oil pressure hot and cold.. and runningg 1,2bar of boost..