Hello folks I’d never thought I’d be back on hear after being coupe free for 5 years , I’ve just brought a 16vt and there’s no power to fuel pump any ideas many thanks .

The ebay one?

That was on Facebook a few days prior for £800 ish with the advert stating the engine might well be knocking.

The original seller said ‘it sounded like it slipped a shell’ when I chatted to him.

Yes mate that’s the one who was the original owner ?

Some guy on Facebook. I only chatted to him briefly.

The potential engine issue was written in the Facebook advert so the guy you got it from was 100% aware.

There was no mention of it not running in the initial advert and the cynic in me would think the seller has removed a fuse/relay to prevent it being started

He’s saying he will refund deposit apparently he got it started and it’s fine , what’s average cost for a rebuild on the engine ?

I’m just relaying what the original advert said mate

I’ll get it rebuilt and forged it’s a project anyway

I rebuilt the bottom and and the cams on a 16NA a year or three back and it wasn't cheap - though I don't know the exact costs. Grinding the bottom end if the crank is damaged involves re-nitriding, and the cams weren't cheap (check the lobes for wear). The good news is that mine was still giving 195psi (?) on the compression check (yours will be less as a turbo) so I didn't remove the head so no messing around with head gasket and valve regrind - though it did need the valves shimming to get the clearances right.

I did it all with Joe at FCSS.

With regard to your initial question: check that the inertia switch is pressed properly down (driver's right knee, on the door pillar) and that the two relays above the ECU (passenger footwell) and their associated fuses are present and correct.

Thanks Neil I know it won’t be cheap but I’m keeping onto this one for sure so It’ll be worth it in the end .

I would dare say you cannot get the camshafts anywhere for the 16v and 16vt anywhere ? That’s my main concern as I know these are prone for the lobes to wear out .

If you're rebuilding the engine with forged components, there's no point in going with standard camshafts. Get aftermarket ones, and afaik, they would be less prone to wear.

I recall we had to scratch around to find them. I think I only needed one - there's an explanation and some pics of what I did in the projects pages.

I just found an unspecified camshaft on the bay which allegedly fits 16v, 16vt, 20v, 20vt, 1.8 16v... neat trick if you can do it. Matching the part numbers would be sensible though if you're tweaking you might want something with more lift on it? Specialist stuff there...

https://www.aecar.co.uk/ list 16v cams, as do Deltaparts https://deltaparts1.wordpress.com/deltaparts-shop/engine-parts-standard/ - I got a lot of bits from them but I think Joe found the camshaft somewhere.

Neil

If you do go for different cams, I'd personally steer away from C&B - link

Thankyou people got it today after a 7 hr round trip the first job is this :olook at the mess .

She fired up .

What the hell is all that nonsense wiring and missile switches, former race car or former max power owner? Glad you got her running, hope the good luck continues!

Ok a little update I chopped all the nasty wiring out the car is now turning over from the key , no power to pump still the pump will run and start with a 12v supply .

I’ve check fuses and relays and nothing could this main one be at fault ? Or the yellow connector of death ? Do they have these on the 16vt ?

Check that the inertia switch is pressed.

Done it mate

16VTs don't have the yellow connector of death.

Cheers Pete I thought this was the case that’s one less thing cheers .

But the inertia switch works on the ground side so if volts to the motor positive and chassis ground works, the switch is fine.

I couldn’t fine the relays fuses above ecu Neil ? Could it be the big grey relay under bonnet ?

Ach, I may be misremembering: all my reference stuff and the car are in storage in the UK. Perhaps I'm confusing with the 20vt?

Deffo nothing up there Neil I’m thinking the main big relay
Under the bonnet ! But finding one is another matter .

I’m going to leave the big relay off and try and do it manual tonight if the car runs still I’m almost certain that’s the fault .

I'm thinking that there were two separate cables running by the ECU, besides the big cable. If those are disconnected, the fuel pump will not run. Other than that, I'm out of ideas...

All wires there are connected mate

Can it be re wired from scratch easily ?

Ok so looking at the manual no 1 is ecu
No 2 is relay
No3 is fuse

Any ideas where to get this big 40amp fuse from ?it’s not blown but it’s very corroded inside .

The neutral on the pump is working fine I put a live to it and it primes all fuses are intact any suggestions please ?