Barbz ,can`t do them any more I asked about it just before he went.... .

I `d love to start a group buy on this, but because of too many work commitments,doubt I`d be able to push it along fast enough/keep on top of it, as I guess it would be very popular GB,considering what a a pain it is, to change the filter as standard.

I'll talk to Think Auto and get it all sorted once I know the lenghts of the pipes, that's all I need now....

I guess you have e mailed Barbz ?,I`m sure he would be helpfull.

I just called Think Auto and checked all the part numbers etc. Everything is correct, but they need the length of the hoses. They do not charge for making up the hoses they just charge for the hose, which is £2.23 per metre and the fittings which work out at £5.57 per hose.

I tried working it out from Taz original invoice, but at a total of £28 and £11.14 for fittings, that leaves £16.86 for the hose, which works out at 3.78 metres, which is crazy

I visited Matt at Think Auto many times over the past several months to try to progress a GB for replacement (non-OE) oil coolers and pipes, and borrowed several bits of kit. What made it triucky was that they could not supply "bent to order" pipes, just unions, connectors, hoses, etc. However, just as I gave up, Matt said they had hooked up with someone who could do the pipes.

It seems a little crazy to keep the remote oil cooler and pipes which send the oil from the block to the cooler and back (when hot) and then another set of pipes/hoses to send the oil back to a remote filter in almost the same place: why not fix the OE sandwich plate to stay open all the time, blank off the filter connection, and use the original pipes to the cooler but rearrange it via a new thermostat to send it to the cooler if hot, and then to the remote filter, or direct to the filter if the oil is not hot enough.

Alternatively, the OE thermostatic sandwich plate can be removed and replaced with a non-thermostatic plate (with blanked off filter connection), with pipes/hoses taking the same route as the OE pipes, but what's needed is some custom pipes with standard end connectors (unlike the OE connections) to follow the same route as they squeeze past the downpipe, heatshield and alternator. This is where I ran out of patience before, but it might be worth revisiting?

Dave

long time no speak mate

I thought EXACTLY as you, as it's a tad odd to have it leave the engine block via some lovely OEM pipes, then to a cooler, then to the filter then back to the block ( of course it runs to the filter ALL the time, but also diverts partially when hot ).

Problems, I noted

You have to remove the whole thermostat to fully OPEN it ( this segregrates the oil so that it flows through the cooler pipework ONLY, the problem with this & this is what fcukked me )

Is that you need to blank off completely the place when the oil filter screws onto, but NOBODY makes a blank, not one I've seen that removes a filter & has a internal loop, the only way is to then buy a take off plate, then run a very small loop from the external connections back into the plate, think auto couldn't make me a small ridgid pipe, so made up a flexy, way too long etc...

still with me ?

then at the other end ( this is the easy bit ) you'd have to cut the 2 rubber hoses before the cooler run one of these ( the supply to the filter, with some new hose, then the return from the filter would need to run into a thermostat, then back to the 2nd hose you cut...

I worked it out on an isometric, dead easy on paper, but it would have been a tad crammed, so just run 2 separate hoses from a takeoff to the remote filter head.

the above cost me over £250 to try & fit.....

it is possible, but I'm fcukked if I am gonna do this lot again

Taz,

How long were the two cables that you had made?

I was going to order all the parts from Think Auto for the remote oil filter adapter in the next few days, however I need an estimate for the length of the braided piping required.

Can anyone give me a rough idea of how long the pipes need to be from the old filter plate to the new position by the horns?

I presume there would be no problem in making them a little bit longer to allow for ease of fitting?

Think you need 3m from memory. Don't forget you also need to figure out how to mount the pipes so they won't float about into the aux belts Also remember if braiding rubs against anything it wears out rather quickly.

3m ! Do you mean 2 lengths of 1.5m?

I was hoping to hold the pipes away from the belts with cable ties attaced to the nearest thing. What did you do to avoid the hoses hitting the belts?

yes 2x 1.5m runs. Might be slightly shorter than that but you need some spare in case you screw up the braid when you cut the pipe and try to fix it with the aeroquip connectors.

I have a couple of brackets holding mine I think, they need attaching in a couple of places, probably could do without brackets but do bear in mind what I said about braid wearing through if it moves through vibration.

Would suggest doing your oil cooler pipes in the same way as then they will last forever rather than for 5 years...

John

We use p-clips like these when we have braided pipes.

Just to resurrect this thread - I have ordered myself the parts needed for a remote filter location.

I'll do a little guide when its fitted. Costs are over £100 now

Good man Nobby

Oh god, never seen these kits before, would love to buy one of these, its a nightmare to get to that oil filter in the standard place for 20vt!!!

The bits have all turned up.......... Plus I've got a Escort cossie massive oil filter

Hopefully they will all be fitted in the next 2 weeks.

It would be great if you could show it off at the South meet on the 14th March

Any chance you will make these kits for a group buy or something ?

Here is my setup of Oil Filter relocation and also I tried to minimize the oil pipe lenghts to be sure that oil pressure will not drop. I am not sure at all, if this is the best way at all as there is no oil cooler any more on those Oil Cooler pipes. Comments about this setup? what is bad & what is good? Or should it be better to "block" the Oil filter and put on the relocated oil filter on the oil cooler pipes? That was was thinkg to do, but did it this way. Anyway I did not want to have four long pipes from the block and insted of four using two pipes.

Minimizing Oil Cooler pipes
For oil cooler pipes deletion you need some 15mm diameter copper pipe (2€?) 2pcs 90 degrees pipe connectors (5€ x2?) and some silver soldering. Just cut the oil oil cooler pipes about 2cm before the connection and solder 15mm diameter copper pipe there. I am sure this could be done in better way, but that's how I did it, as I could not find recirculating oil filter adapter.

Oil Filter relocation kit "ebay"

How to pipes when relocating Oil Cooler & relocating Oil Filter
Here the idea is to get filtered clean oil to oil cooler.

BIG Oil Filter on It's new place

The Oil Cooler I have is also from ebay. It is 14 rows and size is 20cm(height)x 30cm(width) with AN10 fittings ( 2pcs AN10 90 degrees connectors from ebay user: autofittings )

Arent there any oil pressure issues or other minus when relocating the filter?

I got all my kit a couple of weeks ago and decided to fit it this weekend.

All was well, until I realised that I should have ordered 90 deg bends on boths ends of the braided hoses (I then fitted the straight ends remote filter end).

Took it for a nice drive on saturday afternoon, plus I needed burn off the stuff from the heatwrapping on the downpipe.

Stopped at the shops......

drip.. drip... drip.... drip.... D'oh!

One of the braided hoses was too close to the downpipe and it had started to split Didn't lose that much oil and got home safely. Have now reverted back to the standard filter and I'm gonna order some more pipes from think automotive today.

Chris