I'm sure I've asked this before but I can't find the answer.
I'm almost positive my engine cutting out issues at idle are caused by the unichip, the issue only started when the chip was installed.

Does anyone know what pins I need to short out on the connector to remove the unichip from the ECU ?

I've moved the MAF sensor, I've disconnected the MAF, I've replaced the Lambda, I've slaved in a new MAF and it still cuts out every 3 minutes or so on tickover.

It's got to be this bloomin Unichip

Jimbo - it should be obvious after a few minutes grovelling round in the passenger footwell

The ECU simply intercepts various signals and alters them slightly - to do this, the fitter simply chops an existing ECU feed and connects the correct Unichip wires to them (or incorrectly, in my case )

All you have to do is disconnect each wire in turn and splice the original Coupe cables back together (using a proper soldered and sealed connection)

All you need then is a Fleamap - far better than a Unichip

That is my plan eventually Nigel, I just wanted to make sure it's running 100% before I give it to Leighton, I don't want to waste his time with other issues.

I just wanted to short out the pins first of all, make sure it's the Unichip causing the issues then remove it all together.

I found a previous post with the correct wires to short out, it's now been sat for 30 minutes ticking over happily on the drive. It does however missfire and flash up the injector light at around 4000rpm when I rev it but that could be a poor connection on my shorting wires.

I've just had some lunch and I'm going to have a another look at it.

Well what a fucking pigs ear of a job they made of fitting the unichip.

I won't speak ill of the dead but this was fitted by Perfect Touch and lets just say they've made a real bodge job of fitting it, instead of just cutting wires and splicing the new loom in, in their wisdom they have removed wires from ECU pins and removed sections of wires, this is now a nightmare of a job

I'm flying in a few hours and really wish I'd not started doing this now.

Looking at the wire guide from Suba

That leaves me a red and a yellow wire with no where to go ?

The car misfires at 4000rpm, the rev counter needle flicks up and down and the injector light comes on.

Anyone any wiser on this ?

Perfect Touch were raved about in their day but to be honest my car has never been right since they worked their "magic" on it

Soz to hear this Jimbo

PT were / are still shite in my opinion & I'm so glad I left the repair job to Flea.

Can you not get the ECU pins separately ? Then you could re-crimp & refit the pins into the Original ECU multi plug ??

I'd not rush this job, as if you get a short across the wrong pin, you could fry the PCB

Well it's a good job fault finding is my bread and butter, I found the problem

The Purple - Red/White and Brown - Black/White wires were either listed wrongly by Suba or on my car they had cross connected them at the ECU pins.

Anyway, I swapped them over and shorted them out and now it runs nicely at idle and no misfire at revs, going to road test it in a minute.

Taz, it's unfortunately not just a case of re-crimping the wires, they snipped out the old loom from the back of the ECU pins and fitted the Unichip harness instead (the cable is half the diameter of the original loom incidently).

I have shorted the cables for now but it will be an ECU loom re-wire when I get back to do a neat job, at least it's only 6 cables.

Red is +12v and I'd expect the yellow one to be TPS signal but I see you've already sorted it out.

Thats right Matt, the yellow was the only wire to be spliced into the cable so the original wasn't cut, the red I've snipped off.

Hopefully this is it sorted now, I'll road test it for a few days when I have them spare and I'll maybe fit the MAF back on the SIP instead of after two 90' bends to see if it was the Unichip throwing the MAF sensor out and causing the poor running.